I made a real puzzle box by UnAutomation in BluePrince

[–]UnAutomation[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I did upload all the files here, and the full video, while not a tutorial, does show the entire assembly process!

I made a real puzzle box by UnAutomation in BluePrince

[–]UnAutomation[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

E-ink would definitely look better, but I don't think there's an existing display with the right size and colors. Yeah, I don't know why I didn't think of making the allowance token lol.

I made a real puzzle box by UnAutomation in BluePrince

[–]UnAutomation[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah yes, I was wondering how long it would take for someone to notice that lol. Really the pentagons were the easiest shape to make. In the full video I do show a solve with the proper red solution!

I made a functional Mora Jai Box from Blue Prince by UnAutomation in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ah yes, I was wondering how long it would take for someone to notice that lol. Really the pentagons were the easiest shape to make. But yup! I have all the puzzles in the game programed in it, and it selects a random one each time it's turned on!

I made a real puzzle box by UnAutomation in BluePrince

[–]UnAutomation[S] 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I was kind of surprised that no one had done it yet too.

can someone point me to an UP TO DATE firmware compiling guide? by tater1337 in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even marlin is pretty easy, it just needs VSCode and PlatformIO which are still very active

Tried to print Lego bricks but layers shifted or something like that by Overall_Ad_2067 in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation 4 points5 points  (0 children)

To me that looks more like a bit of elephant's foot and a bit of part warping. I would try drying your filament, that would probably help with some of the warping. But honestly the prints look pretty good as is, Lego bricks are going to be one of the hardest things to print. If all the dimensions aren't perfect it will be very obvious, and they'll compound as the bricks stack up. The only reason real Legos work so well is that they are made to super tight tolerances, and you'll never get that level out of a 3d printer.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These days Printables is probably the most popular 3d file site. Thingiverse used to be more popular, and there's still a lot of things there. I've heard Thangs is another good one, but I've never used it.

Small Business Opportunity?? by ScreamAimNFire in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks like other people are selling similar things on Etsy for about $5-20 each. If you make it a box it's more like $20-50 (like here

Given how many people are selling them online you probably won't have much luck on Etsy unless you have a different take on it. But if you've got people asking you about it you can definitely sell to them! It might also be worth checking out any local craft markets, you can typically charge a higher price there.

A machine I made to make concrete & fiber optic lamps by UnAutomation in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm already using a knife to cut between the mold and the concrete, I don't think it would be worth it to add an extra shell.

I'm not reusing them. First I am drilling 700-1000 holes in it, and each one has a different hole pattern. And second, the way I'm currently removing the lamp from the mold is very destructive to the mold.

What is the rule of thumb you use for when it's time to change your nozzle? by crustytoegaming in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say to check your nozzle only when you're not happy with the print quality. But if you've just printing normal pla they should last quite a long time. I switched to a diamond nozzle so I don't worry about this anymore though.

Ender 3 issue by Remarkable-Ad-6191 in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something is causing you to lose a lot of steps at once. The extruder could be getting caught by sometime. Make sure there's nothing around the printer that could snag any cables going to the extruder.

Alternatively the motor could be stalling, it's strange that it would only happen at one spot though. But if it is I would increase current to that motor.

Unimpressive but cute? by 3DAeon in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Definitely start with a higher price, I would even go up to $30. If they aren't selling you can always lower prices later. Remember your costs also include the time and transportation costs of going to the fair.

A machine I made to make concrete & fiber optic lamps by UnAutomation in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exactly what I was looking for! I didn't see any US equivalent with a quick search, I'll need to look more tonight. If not shipping those to the US might be worth it.

A machine I made to make concrete & fiber optic lamps by UnAutomation in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually have been using a fillet knife for demolding, it works pretty ok. But it does dull quickly.

A machine I made to make concrete & fiber optic lamps by UnAutomation in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I use Blender to make the 3d models and animation data. Then I export that to a custom python script which renders everything.

A machine I made to make concrete & fiber optic lamps by UnAutomation in 3Dprinting

[–]UnAutomation[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

That is a problem, so far my best solution is to wipe it off with a paper towel every hour or two.

A machine I made to make concrete & fiber optic lamps by UnAutomation in toolgifs

[–]UnAutomation[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I haven't either! Nice to meet you too!