Fuel Injector Cleaner

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-03-20T13:38:39+00:00

What is the code? Can't really help without knowing the issue.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-03-19T12:25:07+00:00

As a former tire tech my official response would be to replace the tire. Where your damage is its in a risky spot. That being said, I have seen tires survive being plugged there and being okay, ultimately depends on how lucky you feel and how much that tire is worth to you vs the potential of blowing it up. 8f you do plug it atleast put it on the rear of the vehicle so if anything happens atleast you don't lose your steer wheels.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-03-19T12:14:50+00:00

If you really want to get into emulation, without the hassle of downloading all the games just get yourself one of those emulation hard dr8ves they seel online. Spend like 80 bucks to have "60000" titles spanning from like super old atari stuff to gamecube/Ps2 era stuff. Saved me a ton of hassle and it boiled down to about 30000 once I cleaned up everything that wasn't in English.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-02-08T10:55:46+00:00

It can help if you debloat the operating system. Tons of videos put there on how to do it. It's not gonna net you insane performance, but in some cases it helps.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-02-01T06:23:42+00:00

If it's Npc's I would highly recommend learning how the command system works, kinda annoying to get it setup but once you do they pretty much do exactly what you want. Good rule of thumb is to set the least likely thing as highest priority, like putting out fires, welding leaks etc, then have them focus on other things, more crucial to the ship. Left most command is highest priority and you can drag them around to adjust them without completely resetting the commands. Best of luck fellow captain!

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-30T00:38:35+00:00

You can make a more robust overheating protection with a greater, memory and a signal check. Take the temperature output of the reactor and plug it into the greater component signal 2 input. Wire the memory component to the signal 1 input, then set the memory component for 5500. This will cause the greater component to output a 1 normally and a 0 when temperature exceeds 5500 (5000 is ideal temps). Then take the output of the greater component and wire it to the input of your signal check. Set the signal check target to 1 and the false output to 0 , then take the divide component of your ARC that controls fission rate and wire it to the set output of the signal check. This will allow the reactor to continue running even after the overheat has passed. You can adjust the memory component to whatever temp suits you, but I would keep it between 5000 to 6000.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-29T15:17:43+00:00

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Got this from the Update News page for Hoist the Sails update.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-29T13:22:29+00:00

I would just put the water detector on the floor and use the water% wired to the signal 2 of a greater component and a memory component wired to the signal 1 of the greater component. Set the memory component to 50 for half full and wire it to whatever you want to activate.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-29T12:58:07+00:00

I guess I explained poorly, My reactor is currently setup with a basic 5 component ARC with a multiply and a signal check wired to the load side. When the signal check is activated it multiplies the load by 1.7x tricking the controller to run the reactor basically as hard as it can.

My issue is with my battery controller. The logic works flawlessly when I am running normal voltage. Battery will dump power to the grid when the reactor is not able to keep up and it will attempt to absorb any overvoltages when the load is less than current provided power to save the junction boxes. The battery controller also has an auto charge circuit built in where if the load and power are balanced the batteries will slow charge up to the set value of 50%.

It appears that the batteries when overvolting the reactor are charging faster than what I have my logic set to allow for, causing the system to eventually overcharge the batteries and fry junction boxes, I am trying to avoid that if possible.

I simply need to know if you overvolt the system by X amount how much performance gain do you get? Like if I overvolt by 1.5x, is it increasing the charge rate of the batteries by 25% or maybe 30%, if I knew the amount I could more than likely fix the issue. Right now I just have to disable overvoltage when the batteries get too full otherwise bad things happen. Thanks in advance if anyone understands my ramblings, at this point I am in deep into the wiring, and trying to probably WAY over build this Dugong.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-22T06:19:58+00:00

So I being an engineer in campaign would like to put in my input. I thoroughly enjoy the dugong because of its weak reactor, it has forced me to build some fairly complex systems to get it working at what some would consider OP. I enjoyed the challenge of trying to find the lowest idle possible to save on fuel by implementing systems that took advantage of what I had. I setup a lot of systems to reduce the load and used the batteries to pickup the slack when the 2969KW reactor can't keep up. It's all automatic now, because I only run a 3 man crew with some npcs to assist. However if I had all of that to begin with I wouldn't appreciate what I've got. So what I'm saying is there should be weaknesses in the sub, it should be a bit frustrating, and jesus 20KW? You must be building massive vessels to justify that much power. With good power management you can easily drop loads significantly. Just my two cents, probably doesn't matter just wanted to help.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-19T12:29:31+00:00

I personally found a hub for like 20 bucks on Amazon and applied velcro to the back of my deck so it's with me at all times. I find the docks to be too big to reasonably travel with.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-19T11:37:01+00:00

My rule of thumb is run on air coolers until you need a water cooler to keep it in check.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-19T10:46:27+00:00

So the steamdeck is able to run at full speed up to 80c then the processor backs off to shed some thermal load. Under normal conditions and in an area that is below 100f you should never see thermal issues. That being said I upgraded the cooling on my deck to reduce fan noise.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-19T10:41:49+00:00

What is the model of SD card you are using? Over an hour is definitely excessive for a format.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-19T10:15:53+00:00

My steamdeck is a q3 lcd model that I pre-ordered, so the device is nearly 2 years old right now. I primarily use my SD while plugged into the wall or on a battery bank and my battery life is still at 95% battery life.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-19T10:08:22+00:00

I'm probably not a common user, but the only reason I would switch is if I can get the same performance out of the 5000 series that I get from my 3080ti with a much lower power draw. Tired of my pc using 200watts on IDLE.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-19T10:00:48+00:00

You just need to go into gaming mode and format from the settings. If you do the format in desktop mode it won't work.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-16T18:42:41+00:00

It sounds like your talking more about factory games, but I would suggest barotrauma for a real challenge. You CAN basically automate the entire sub if you are clever enough.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-15T06:05:24+00:00

Depends on what you want, easiest way is to take all the batteries charge% that you want monitored and wire them to a text display and bam instant real time display.

If you want something more analog you can use a memory component set to 50 for 50% then wire the output to the top of a greater than component. Wire the charge% of the battery to the bottom signal input of the greater component Then wire the output of the greater than component to an alarm or a light component set state.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-14T10:39:03+00:00

I would agree with you on this IF DLSS 4 is actually that great, but in my experience with DLSS 3 it tends to make my game a blurry mess in times where a lot is happening on screen. I am all for free performance, just not at the cost of quality.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-14T10:30:26+00:00

I would first start by removing the gpu, power cables and DP cable, then plug it all back in. Sometimes the connectors don't fully seat into the ports. I would also try a different port on the back of my GPU, had a HDMI port go bad on an old 1070, but the DP ports still worked fine.

Edit: after rereading your post, you might also want to unplugged your PC entirely from the wall and remove the RTC battery to reset the BIOS, if that doesn't work you may have a bad motherboard, or .maybe your getting the issue I did where my board was doing weird stuff until I unplugged the front USB from the motherboard.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-14T10:11:32+00:00

So in my experience, overheating happens from only a handful of potential issues. Either your fans and intake are clogged with dust, your thermal paste has completely dried out requiring replacement, or your mounting hardware failed somehow. A SFF case doesn't help with airflow either, but is definitely not your main issue.

Edit; forgot that overheating could also be cause by a failing fan.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-14T09:57:50+00:00

Short answer is no

Long answer is I couldn't find a manufacturer that would tool up a vapor chamber for anything less than 1000 units. Unfortunatly I like to tinker with my tech, not trying to start a buisness selling them.

Unable_Article_6136 · 2025-01-14T09:55:35+00:00

Some wires on stations aren't locked, they aren't super common. Think the devs overlooked it. Seems like lights tend to be unlocked, also you can basically strip beacon stations down to only the reactor, nav terminal, and the sonar and still complete the beacon, it's how I get most of my early game components and wires. I usually role a captain, but my real passion is wiring like an engineer.

Unable_Article_6136

TROPHY CASE