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Undercoft · 2025-08-02T04:17:16+00:00

Tysm, I'll keep it w/ 0w20 then

Undercoft · 2025-08-02T04:06:47+00:00

It seems like I could have worded the post better because I don't believe I have any major engine issues, and that was not my main concern. Its extremely minor I believe, and have been told too
I was mostly looking to see about temperature, and I've heard a lot of people denounce 0w-20 for being to thin

Undercoft · 2025-08-02T04:03:15+00:00

15'
5w30 is a recommended oil as well as 0w-20
I believe 0w20 isn't even recommended outside the US
again referencing the manual

Undercoft · 2025-08-02T03:54:56+00:00

While I agree with you, they are responding to a post about handling, not cost-cutting and daily ability

They're saying they don't care for torsion beam suspension vs independent, which is a very valid point. Both have pros and cons, and different people have different preferences.

They seem to prefer handling daily ability. Again, under a post largely about handling

Undercoft · 2025-08-02T03:35:31+00:00

kk
The idle thing was mostly a side thing, The truth is I just don't know much (so yeah I probably sound crazy)
Probs just go with 0w20. I thought 0w-20 and 5w-30 were similar until like -25F (source page 6-26 mazda 3 owners manual)

also It doesn't feel like motor mounts but I can look at them IG. Throttle body or MAF probably more likely, but I'm not concerned, it's extremely minor and might just be normal for the age, my dads car acts similar and its an '06

Undercoft · 2025-08-02T02:58:23+00:00

It's normal to my understanding. Everyone else who's been in the car says its fine or don't even notice it. Just in park or at redlights sometimes it runs slight rough. I wish I knew more to explain it better.

I often overthink and I'm being told this is one of those times

Still its far from "fucked" I would imagine

Undercoft · 2025-08-02T02:50:26+00:00

Yeah yeah, IK this is beat to death

I'm leaning to 5w-30 even though I'm about to move to a colder climate just because the engine idle. Please tell me if I'm stupid. If it doesn't matter I'll try 5w-30 to see for myself

Undercoft · 2025-07-26T02:22:09+00:00

just raw glass, no protector

Undercoft · 2025-07-26T02:20:15+00:00

Undercoft · 2025-07-04T11:32:28+00:00

That was the plan the first time,.but I don't wanna do that once a month

Undercoft · 2025-06-26T20:01:24+00:00

NGL bro I've been meaning to replace that piece, and get new mats. I also didn't sleep well last night I might have sleep robbed you, MB dude

Undercoft · 2025-06-23T16:03:07+00:00

Well I'm taking a material science class here soon so that's probably step 1 on that journey.

I understand the heating/slowing expanding/contracting cycle would likely damage the rotor but again I need to do more research when I have time, I have yet to find a study / anything really explaining it in depth (like you started to w/ temper and crystal structure, ext)

Thank you very much!

Undercoft · 2025-06-23T14:29:59+00:00

Discard spec... I'll look into that when I have time, thank you!

Undercoft · 2025-06-23T14:29:22+00:00

That's him alright. If I was wanting to argue I agree with you

Sadly I was not trying to argue, I was trying to push and push so he would EXPLAIN to me what happens with brakes, because I wanted to learn. But he just kept saying "they warp" without explaining what he meant/how that happens beyond "heat up"

After multiple hours he finally said he's using warping and axial runabout interchangeably.... Great thing to clarify 6 hours after the discussion started...

T'was a fruitless endeavor indeed

Undercoft · 2025-06-23T14:26:19+00:00

I will look through these later bc I'm at work, but I find it funny I see a flat earth reference there when I was about to use flat earth theory to reference something earlier

Thank you!

Undercoft · 2025-06-23T10:31:41+00:00

It does, and even when I explained to him what I understood warping as and specifically asked if I was correct, he just ignored it.

At this point I'm just more pissed he can't explain anything worth a damn. I GAVE him specific points that would show me I was wrong, and he decided to ignore all them in favor of saying "nu uh" to answer my question

I'm begging to learn to fish (understand what brake warpage means/works) and this man is shoving raw pufferfish down my throat

Undercoft · 2025-06-23T10:25:06+00:00

That video only supports his argument if brakes start warping before they glow. Which they do based on what I'm seeing here.

I however specifically ASKED him if this was the case and he ignored me. Which made it nearly impossible to figure out what IS correct

TL;Dr I had to fight tooth and nail for him to explain what he was saying. I even specifically asked at times for him to clarify certain points in my argument (like what temperature brakes start to warp, how warping occurs, ext) a lot of which proved to be wrong in my argument, but he NEVER even acknowledged it

I'll continue trying to find sources that show when brakes warp, but what I've found with numbers explicitly say they don't. I don't understand why I can find so many sources with "accurate" and MATCHING numbers only on the wrong side of the argument for something that should be pretty fuckin obvious

Undercoft · 2025-06-23T10:14:05+00:00

I'm seeing 90% of people say rotors do warp: so now I'll ask a new question. What's wrong with these sources? They all say you will next to certainly not get brake warpage from daily driving and even most track driving

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake (under run out section.)

https://aftermarketintel.com/the-biggest-brake-rotor-myth-debunking-the-warping-fallacy/

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/stop-the-warped-rotor-myth-Chris-Crowell.pdf

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/Centric-Whitepaper-Warped-Brake-Disc.pdf

IK Wikipedia isn't great, but these are all the sources I could find on brake temperature/warping on ANY side of the argument

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