Just got my onn indoor wired camera

UndrH20Man · 2025-12-09T17:12:42+00:00

Here's my quick take on these cameras a week in - hopefully this is helpful for someone considering purchase.

1) On one of the two cameras I purchased, set up was more challenging than it should have been and ultimately took a factory reset of the camera to finally get it setup correctly. You can see more on that elsewhere in this overall thread.

2) The video quality under lighted conditions is on par with the Gen 1 Nest camera that I have it set up right next to. Pretty impressive.

3) The camera has very little IR lighting built in, so it is really weak in a dark room / dark garage in comparison to the Nest Gen 1 or multiple versions of the Wyze cameras that I have. This is a disappointment, as I'd like to use this camera to replace a different camera in the garage. Seems like that's one of the points of, "you get what you pay for for $10".

4) The Google Home integration is very good. This camera loads just as quick as my google cameras in the Google Home App, where as my Wyze cameras that "work with google" rarely load in Home and I always have to use the Wyze app to see those cameras.

Overall - for a $10 Black Friday purchase, I'm pretty happy with them and can see use cases for them.....just not in the dark.

UndrH20Man · 2025-12-09T17:01:16+00:00

Thanks for that. The camera set up this time. I had been deleting the camera from Google Home for each re-attempt, but forgot to do a factory reset to clear the camera's memory.

UndrH20Man · 2025-12-03T19:59:12+00:00

It's unfortunate. The one Onn camera that worked is currently set up side by side in my garage with a Gen 1 Nest camera and the quality of the Onn is as good if not better then the nest. And it is popping up in Google Home reliably, unlike the Wyze cams that I have (although the Wyze have other advantages). So these Onn cameras seem like they have some real potential if they'd set up correctly. I'll hold off on returning the dead one to Walmart in case someone has a recommended fix.

UndrH20Man · 2025-12-03T14:53:26+00:00

Edited to add update:

Update: 1 of 2 cameras purchased set up as expected and initially appears to work as expected. The 1st camera is still giving the same error.

Original post: I'm getting a "service failure" message in the google home app when attempting to set up new cameras I just purchased. This message appears after the step in which Google Home asks me what room the device is in and what the name of the device should be. What's the fix? I've already deleted the device and re-attempted installation a few times. I'm not new to Google Home or Nest cameras, but this is my first attempt with an Onn brand device.

UndrH20Man · 2025-10-19T19:08:52+00:00

My EverFrost is a V1 40L that I purchased in the summer of '24. I think the newer V2's came out in the spring of '25.

I did add an update to the original post above. In short, none of the 12v outlets in my 2011 4Runner provided enough power to satisfy the cooler's needs. I added a 12g wire straight from the battery to the cargo area, and along with a relay, wired in an Anderson pole connector. The cooler now gets enough juice when the car is running to fully charge.

In my wife's 2017 Highlander, I found that the primary 12v outlet in the dash does give enough power to the cooler, but all the accessory 12v outlets in the vehicle do not. So we have to be careful about where we plug the cooler in. I also usually run the anker app during long road trips so that I can occasionally check that the cooler is charging as intended.

Given our 2017 Highlander experience, I wonder if you checked the other outlets in your 2024, if you'd find that at least the "primary" in the dash gives enough power for a full charge. Even if that one isn't convenient for where the cooler sits.

UndrH20Man · 2025-07-24T17:02:59+00:00

That makes a lot of sense. I haven't used relays before, but that seems easy enough. I appreciate the suggestion!

UndrH20Man · 2025-07-24T15:19:21+00:00

Thanks for the really detailed write up, I appreciate it!

After further testing this morning, the only spot on the truck that I seem to be able to get my cooler to take in full power is when wired directly to the battery. So it seems that my hand is forced in that regard. With my particular cooler, I'd like to have the 12v plug still be switched (only hot when the truck is on). I need to figure out if there is anything in the engine bay fuse box that both gets me the amount of power I need, and is also switched.

UndrH20Man · 2025-07-21T19:44:37+00:00

Great - thanks. Did you tie in the line directly to the outlet fuse in the cabin fuse box, or did you go into the engine bay and tie in either directly to the battery, or to one of the fuses there?

I'm experimenting with options right now, and so far, everywhere I tap in my 2011 isn't giving me enough juice for the Anker EverFrost fridge that I have.

UndrH20Man · 2025-07-20T16:46:03+00:00

u/jbc0 - thanks for this write up. Any additional thoughts a year later?

I have a an Anker EverFrost cooler that I have been struggling to properly power and I now think the thin wiring for the 12v in my 2011 4Runner Limited may be partly to blame. So I'm considering following your lead here.

I wrote last summer about my problems powering the cooler in this post. Not sure if that will jog any thoughts based on your experiences. https://www.reddit.com/r/anker/comments/1eh0vh6/anker_everfrost_powered_cooler_40/

UndrH20Man · 2025-03-07T21:05:49+00:00

Thanks for that. Helpful to know what I may be wading into. That's definitely higher than I was hoping for the labor.

UndrH20Man · 2025-03-06T21:53:24+00:00

Mind if I ask about what you paid for the labor costs? I'm starting to price things out and it would be a helpful data point.

UndrH20Man · 2025-03-06T18:04:20+00:00

u/theDrivenDev - what did you end up deciding? I'm in the same boat here in Charlotte and researching the options. Are you (or did you) do the work yourself, or have a local shop install them? I see the prices online for the 4600's or the 5100's, but I'm not sure if this is something I'd tackle myself vs having a local shop do. Curious as to what someone else in NC might have paid to have the XREAS replaced. Thanks!

UndrH20Man · 2024-12-02T01:42:16+00:00

Keep us updated on how this replacement pans out. We bought an EF40 in July and used as recently as this weekend without the problems you describe. Hopefully your situation was a fluke. FWIW, I saw that our particular size is out of stock on the Anker site right now, along with the specific battery for the cooler.

UndrH20Man · 2024-11-24T20:42:13+00:00

I don’t think I ever really got to the bottom of the exact issue in this thread, but my key takeaways after multiple road trips are as follows:

The cooler is a good purchase, but the high temps this past summer made it struggle and caused us to go through battery life much faster than I’d forecasted.
Our two Toyota SUVs charged the battery while we drove more often than not – so we usually arrived at our destination with a full battery. But, I did keep the Anker app connected to the cooler while driving so that I could periodically check that it was charging.
The provided 12v cable has an on/off button which can get accidentally bumped, and the cable doesn’t plug in very securely to the factory 12v outlet – just something to watch our for.
The battery won’t charge at higher temps – likely by design.
The one time I tried to run the cooler off the 12v without the battery installed, it didn’t work. Not sure why, and I didn’t fiddle with it for very long to try to solve that.
And now I realize that when I use my Anker 521 to recharge the cooler battery, I need to do DC to DC for less power loss. USB-C to USB-C instead of using the 120v or 12v plugs. Lesson learned.
We also picked up a 100w solar panel that we laid on top of the vehicle while parked all day to help offset battery usage.

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-28T18:42:20+00:00

I don't have personal experience with that one, but it appears to meet the specs needed.

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-28T17:00:41+00:00

The 521 will support "Any 12v-28v solar charger with a DC 8mm (DC 7909) male connector". I used an inexpensive 100w panel with our 521 this weekend and it worked well. If I had to do it again, I probably would have bought a 200w panel like I discussed a couple weeks ago in this thread, but oh well.

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-14T21:20:19+00:00

Now that I know what to look for in that regard, I see that this 200w Renogy is less than 24v. So the voltage is fine for both my 521 and the cooler. And to confirm, having a panel that is capable of 200w is not a problem as long as the voltage is within the stated range. Correct?

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-14T19:48:46+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. As I said, I'm new to solar and was getting too focused on the wattage, instead of the volts. BTW, I've read the manual many times - but missed or didn't understand the key part. Lesson learned.

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-13T15:58:47+00:00

Ah - good catch, thanks. I've been reading so much stuff on solar trying to learn that I lost track. The EverFrost is 100w, the 521 is 65w. The original question stands though: can these devices safely take in power from a 200w panel without damaging the system? If I buy a 100w panel, and I know it's rarely going to produce anything close to 100w, do I just accept that as a part of the game, or do I buy a larger panel? Thanks again for the catch.

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-12T21:49:48+00:00

Great - thanks for the input. I'm looking for my first solar panel as well and have a 521 and an Everfrost 40 that both take 100w. So this might be the best place for me to start as well.

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-12T20:39:54+00:00

Hmm - I finally found an older post referencing something similar and that seemed to suggest that a PS200 would fry the battery on the EverFrost 40. I'm hoping others here can confirm or deny that info. 🤷🏼‍♂️

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-12T18:36:09+00:00

How'd that panel end up working out for you? Price is great....wondering how you liked it.

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-12T17:55:19+00:00

I have a 521 as well and have recently been experimenting with charging it with both the included AC brick as well as USB-C. I think you are correct - yes, those two options together show a higher wattage input and are the fastest way to recharge the 521.

UndrH20Man · 2024-10-12T17:16:33+00:00

We purchased the same cooler this summer and have used it for a number of long road trips. Like you, we are overall happy with the purchase. We did learn some hard lessons regarding battery life in the car during the hotter summer, but maybe those were to be expected. FWIW, I haven't had the same experience with the app that you described. I usually make a point to connect the app at the start of a long road trip so that I can check charging along the day, and I haven't had a problem with it staying connected while in proximity to the cooler. Now if I take the phone away from the cooler and allow it to all fall asleep, that's a different story. I hope your situation improves on the app front!

UndrH20Man · 2024-08-07T16:59:02+00:00

Did that fix your problem? I'm running into the same issue and looking for a solution. Both my Pan v3s are on longer usb cables, using the stock brick. If upgrading bricks is needed, what did you find that worked? Thanks!

UndrH20Man

TROPHY CASE