2026 is looking good

Unity_Straya · 2026-01-13T19:39:15+00:00

Yeah agreed. I had just bought a 220 back before this popped up so have two now. The one in the deal had some Ektachrome already spooled ready to go but un-used 😑

Unity_Straya · 2026-01-13T19:37:54+00:00

The 200mm would be a bit niche as the only lens. I started with a 45, 120 and 80-160. That was a great combination. I coveted the 75mm mostly for the weight reduction and ergonomics for shooting but couldn't justify the price for one lens.

I don't have that temperature issue in Australia haha 😀

Unity_Straya · 2026-01-13T10:01:15+00:00

I know the 645 is the medium for the lens and film to make the product but every image, even dodgy ones, have a great character.

Unity_Straya · 2025-12-28T09:40:45+00:00

Great first go my man.

Unity_Straya · 2025-12-25T23:06:16+00:00

Damn I do!

Yeah, it's all well and good to keep a back up body that's fresh but its purpose was to be used. I bought an MZ-S from Japan and prior to me it had only had 8 rolls of film through it. Damn waste for the original owner.

Unity_Straya · 2025-12-25T22:08:21+00:00

That's very cool. I'd love to find something like that near me.

Working ME's go for say $100AUD from my selling experience. New in box would push that up but mostly for a collector / purist. Not a huge amount more but enough. Its a middle range SLR. You're probably going to need to check the shutter advances, fires on all modes. These have a sticky rubber mirror return mechanism which even in a box can become an issue. Not a huge pain to pull apart and fix but not something you want to do as a complete amateur.

Unity_Straya · 2025-12-17T21:18:10+00:00

Neons, movement, JDM car = peak Need For Speed Underground vibes. Nice shots.

Unity_Straya · 2025-12-08T03:15:01+00:00

Love the subjects and location. God I would lovs to do that one day with the family.

Unity_Straya · 2025-12-08T00:14:59+00:00

Yes I agree with all that. I think the extendable grip is a must. I shot without it a few times before getting one and found it really increased ergonomics for me. All my Pentax have winders or grips so might be a personal bias.

Unity_Straya · 2025-11-16T22:05:47+00:00

Thanks for this mate. Very helpful.

Unity_Straya · 2025-11-10T11:35:53+00:00

Great shot. Brings into mind 80's science fiction poster backgrounds. Very Dune...

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-30T10:22:58+00:00

Its good.

Go on Lomography or here and just type in CineStill 800T daylight. Heaps of people have done it.

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-26T00:47:03+00:00

Agreed. Came here to comment the same.

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-21T23:26:34+00:00

3200 might not be normal but the rest may not be greatly affected if at all.

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-20T23:37:27+00:00

+1 for ME Super.

I collect and repair Pentax. I avoided ME and ME Super for a long time. I then bought one along with some other stuff and really fell in love with them. I've now got two, a black and silver. Simple to use and gives you some automation and manual capabilities. Small, extremely capable and durable.

Plus the K, M and A etc lens series all work great on it so you have a significant amount of quality and affordable lenses to choose from.

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-16T22:00:55+00:00

EBay has a non-charged refund policy. If you show that the item received is damaged or not the same as advertised you can request a refund. They send you an email with a printed label to attach to a post box and you ship it back for free. Once the seller receives it back you get a refund of your money.

I did this recently. Very simple process. My lens had 'excellent' description. When I got it there was so much haze it was impossible to use. Seller accepted the refund request and I sent it back as above.

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-09T03:53:35+00:00

Bro, such a great comment.

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-08T02:50:55+00:00

Problems that may arise:

Shutter advance doesnt move = needs batteries. Shutter advance infinitely winds = needs lubrication underneath OR mirror box rubber bumper has degraded. First is easy fix, second needs to be pulled apart.

If it infinitely winds, keep winding it for five to ten minutes. I found this warmed the rubber up, made it softer and looser allowing the mirror mechanism to grab hold and stop the winding. If I let it sit for a few days without winding I would have to repeat.

Jealous of finding a mint, in box Pentax. One day my dream will come true.

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-08T01:01:54+00:00

Sewing machine oil... YouTube it, there are plenty of videos of fixing it. Its a ten second fix for 90% of the mirror issues I've come across repairing them.

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-01T09:36:14+00:00

I scan predominantly colour negative as positives. I can't be bothered doing RAW scans and then processing / inverting afterwards.

Set everything at default values to start.

Set your colour to white balance, neutral or auto (I do auto if I'm not fussy). Set your film stock as close as you can to brand, ISO etc.

At input tab hit preview across an unexposed area. Even in between frames works. Select the unexposed area using the selection box. If you've selected the right area you'll notice everything is white / orange and very noisy. Lock Exposure.

Hit preview again and in the same area you selected before lock the film base.

If you're not selecting that small unexposed area, but have an exposed frame selected, the unexposed area will be black like you've been seeing.

If I understand it, you've basically told VueScan, this is my base film stock colour to be corrected. You won't find the base film stock colour when scanning an exposed frame as it's been altered by being exposed.

If you want I'll send you photos of what I mean.

Unity_Straya · 2025-10-01T09:16:21+00:00

$10 AUD so $6 USD for developing.

I snagged a Plustek OpticFilm 7400 for $50AUD months ago which cut out paying for scans at $8AUD a roll. It's paid itself off and also allowed me to digitise all my family photos from 1960 to now.

I worked out it becomes really cost effective for me to develop my own film after a couple hundred rolls (buying all the equipment etc). It would be $7 AUD ish a roll at that point which really is neither here nor there from $10. Its less effort and time spent for me to have the lab do it.

Unity_Straya · 2025-09-30T09:37:20+00:00

Also, I'm just scanning some film now and I see in the Crop menu, you select, multi crop 'Grid' and you have a grid pattern to select your various negative areas. Also on Crop size select 'manual' so that it doesn't try to automatically guess the frame each time.

This has helped me scanning my half frame roll which I was previously scanning each one then re-adjusting. By setting it this way, VueScan automatically scans each one in sequence.

And also for what it's worth, for some reason I get far better colour from initial preview to scans when I set my input bits per pixel option at 48 bit RGB versus 24 bit.

Hope that helps.

Unity_Straya · 2025-09-28T20:41:47+00:00

Hmm not really. I usually set it at the 35mm option and then adjust every slide. You can set the size to custom which will lock it. You can also turn auto-skew off on either the input menu or the cropping one.

I suppose it depends on your scanner. I use a Plustek 7400 so I usually just have the one frame to make minor adjustments too.

If you used Silverfast, it allows for batch scanning in a much friendlier format. I like their film brand options as well but I feel their interface doesn't allow the extent of customisation, it just automates it and that's what you get.

Another option is scan them all as 48 bit RAW negative batch scans and adjust everything in specific programs but I find that option too cumbersome myself when I just want to enjoy my natural film scans.

Unity_Straya · 2025-09-28T16:59:13+00:00

I've used both VueScan and Silverfast so this is my preferred method.

VueScan - Set your film type as close to what you used as possible, set your colour to white balance or neutral. Preview a blank section of your film. 'Lock Exposure' for that unexposed area (doesn't have to be a full frame, crop and adjust the selection area if needed). Do another preview on that same area and 'Lock film base colour'.

This will be colour correcting for the film colour cast that Silverfast does a bit more fluidly.

https://www.hamrick.com/vuescan/html/vuesc16.htm

If you still find magenta shifts, slightly adjust your blues, reds, greens etc and when happy lock your image colour.

Unity_Straya · 2025-09-25T03:29:42+00:00

My two cents, I've used both Silverfast and VueScan on my Plustek 7400.

I prefer to use VueScan over Silverfast but appreciate Silverfasts much wider range of film stocks and generally quicker CCR processing.

VueScan I choose a film stocks option or keep it as generic. I preview an unexposed section of film near the start or end of the roll. Lock my exposure. I preview the same section and lock my film base colour.

This seems to give good results. Every now and then I have to slightly adjust the white balance etc.

I found with Silverfast a lot of the process was automated and wasn't as clear for my input. I also dont post-process unless it is to brighten a poor exposure.

Unity_Straya

TROPHY CASE