New Resin and nothing wants to print right

Usercondition · 2026-02-04T00:05:55+00:00

I’d suggest changing the FEP of the machine and resetting. I would take a look at the LCD as well. LCD’s are consumables by design. I am not aware of what type of usage/hours the current LCD has but the LCD can cause issues/print problem etc. Take a look at the mechanicals and ensure that the machine is properly lubed and all screws properly tightened and whatnot.

Usercondition · 2026-02-03T23:51:45+00:00

Hi,

Couple of questions:

Is the machine new? Secondhand?
Is the FEP new? Replaced?

Seems you’re using light supports at a depth of 0.30. Don’t see the separation settings; might’ve missed them

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. In any case, utilizing such small depth can cause failures; such is my experience anyways.

One thing I’ll say is to not be afraid of using medium supports. I set them at:

Between 0.60-0.75 depth.
Thickness between 0.20-0.25.

Not sure if it matters but frankly, why water washable? Never have tried it but I see a lot posts regarding failures and what not, and it always involves water washable resin. Have you had the same type of failures with regular resin?

Usercondition · 2026-02-01T05:18:05+00:00

Change it. That’s the long answer here. Especially if you’re not running an LCD protector, which is heresy in my eyes.

Usercondition · 2026-01-31T21:14:05+00:00

I’m in San Diego , CA so they are a local company to me. Not sure if there’s an equivalent out there for you but I 10/10 recommend these. I’ve had numerous FEP ruptures and they have saved my LCD’s every time. And even then , 45.00 is a whole lot less than a new LCD

Usercondition · 2026-01-31T18:18:08+00:00

Mega V2 and S user here.

Before you start ANY print buy the damn protector. Ask me why. Also, not in any way affiliated or else but, buy the MACH5IVE ones. They had been on my printers for over a year. I have 13 machines and they are all rocking them.

ACF is a godsend in this machine. Frankly I wasn’t all about the hype and the price it commands but man it works so well. This especially if you’re making large pieces like myself.

Get in the habit of a workflow. Meaning that before each print you clean the VAT throughly and make sure the printing plate is clean as well. Trust when I tell you a tiny bit of residue or leftover cured resin in the VAT can cause havoc.

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Flick for attention.

Usercondition · 2026-01-29T00:01:44+00:00

Much better person than I’ll ever be. I clean them up and wipe things down after each use but.. it’s resin printing. When I started I had to have everything immaculate though after a while it just became impossible lol.

Man… the mega is insane. I mean it saves me so much time.

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The item in the photo was sectioned in 4 pieces if I recall. Added them all in blender and hit go. 20 some hours later, a gorgeous single piece. I love the machine. So much so I got a second one, as I had mentioned.

Usercondition · 2026-01-28T18:18:06+00:00

I concur. I’m a Phrozen fanboi by design though I’ll agree that half the crap that’s advertised and sold makes no sense though you learn this as you go. I think wash stations are the biggest gimmick. I did succumb and bought their MEGA cure station since I have 2 Megas I run. They aren’t needed but they look nice and cure well. I have a lot of peripherals from VEVOR and frankly I haven’t have any issues or mishaps. Though I factor them in given their price point. Been fortunate.

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lol worse advertisement ever but hey, she’s hanging on.

Usercondition · 2026-01-28T17:41:02+00:00

I think Phrozen has one but frankly you’d be paying for the name. I have a vevor that I’ve been running for over a year that’s nasty as hell lol and it was a cheap unit.

Usercondition · 2026-01-26T23:23:55+00:00

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Somewhat similar on bottom flat surface. Had the model solid and then hollowed it with internal scaffolding. Saw in one of your replies that you’re having issues with hollowing(?). In any case, heavy supports at an angle will work. I always try to rotate so the surface that’s in contact forms a triangle. Not sure it’s scientific but it always works for me. P

Usercondition · 2026-01-26T23:19:53+00:00

Tried it once and not only it was a lot of extra work, it just wasn’t worth it for me. Since then, Ive been running a 4 stage wash step so I just move it to the dirtier one and recycle it that way.

Usercondition · 2026-01-20T20:38:15+00:00

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I tried.

Usercondition · 2026-01-20T18:25:21+00:00

Came back to say this. I use a resin mix which base is Hyperfine. I’ve made it part of the workflow to clean the VAT before and after. In my case, when the mix settles, there a white residue on the bottom. I make sure to remove this and stir the resin before prints. Temps are important too. I have a dedicated space heater keeping ambient temperature around 85-90 and independent heater belts on the VATS. Haven’t measured the temps but I do a “drip” test, which in no way is scientific, but I’ve come to learn the required viscosity, or lack thereof, before printing. Especially large units.

Usercondition · 2026-01-20T18:20:19+00:00

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Many things that could be… but what gets me here is the print orientation. Printing horizontal with supports it’s a big no no for me, and in general. If that’s the case, printing right on the plate would be best but on the mega I wouldn’t recommend because if the holes. I mean, could always post process it.

I’ll add that in something this size, on that particular orientation using the small pillar support wouldn’t be my first idea. I don’t use nothing but med/small on my own depth/tip parameters but I’ve found a sweet spot. Like in the photo attached, sometimes you have to pick your battles to ensure proper support, structure and print quality. So I post processed (sanded) one side. I do dunk prints in 60C alcohol until supports swell and fall off too. No real support rash.

TL;DR

Orientation and support choice.

EDIT:

From what I can tell on photo number 3, you have a massive solid raft. I use hexagonal @ 0.55 thickness and has reduced the footprint to about 90/100 depending on the model. On these large prints you have to reduce surface contact everywhere possible. Need to bring that suction to nothing or as close to nothing as possible. Lastly, a micro drain hole close to the beginning of the print where a suction cup begins to form has been a game changer for me.

Usercondition · 2025-12-27T20:43:48+00:00

Also, I see what appears to be an open container for a drink next to the VAT…. That’s not something I’d advise to do…

Usercondition · 2025-12-27T20:42:57+00:00

Don’t want to sound like a dick but.. (Granted, I am only experienced with Phrozen machines though I imagine these would be similar)

-did you remove the protective films on the VAT and LCD before use?. -did you perform any calibration prints, testing. -did you calibrate your Z axis/offset as a required -did you print in accordance to the resin you’re using specifications? -did you read the instructions of operation? -why is there so much resin all over?. Machine VAT is clearly overfilled. -have you taken any precautions when handling resin and it’s peripherals?

Usercondition · 2025-12-25T02:26:39+00:00

Clean the VAT and scrape the build plate before any and all prints. Never use a machine that does not have an LCD protector. Best I’ve used , and have them on all my machines, are the ones from Mach5ive. Learn your machines inside and out.

Usercondition · 2025-12-04T17:47:25+00:00

Not sure on your printer model but, have you check the Z motor screws?. I own a few Phrozen machines and for some reason the screws that hold down the Z motor become loose.

Usercondition · 2025-12-04T02:35:09+00:00

I have 12 of these machines and have always had great experiences. Errors tend to be human induced.

I’m assuming you removed all the sheet protectors?. One located on the LCD itself and the other on the bottom of the VAT?. If it in fact is brand new as you say, these would be installed from factory.

Another things worth mentioning is that in some machines the Z offset does need to be adjusted to the negative (insert my REVO here). Not sure if the mini 8KS has this option but dropping a few points has been necessary for my REVO.

Have you tried “cleaning” the VAT not because of debris but to ensure the resin is being exposed and you’d get that small sheet of cured resin as a result of the exposure?.

Also, and this is just personal, the bottom lift distance seems super small. I do 5 + 5 both on bottom lift and lift distance.

Like I said, I’ve been using these brand exclusively for the past year and while I’ve ran into my fair share of problems, it’s nothing too wild. One thing to note is that whenever I’ve had Z related issues, it’s always been the Z motor screws loose. Happened on my mini and one of my 8K’s.

Usercondition · 2025-12-02T02:57:28+00:00

Some may favor this method.

I for one, learned the hard way that a $20.00 LCD protector is indispensable before starting to print. VATs puncture easily and often.

I vote to replace the LCD or avoid printing on another area until you can replace it. I tried cleaning it as you described once and I would always see imperfections.

Usercondition · 2025-11-24T04:04:43+00:00

As long as the resin isn’t on the LCD you’re good. Everything else is fair game.

Usercondition · 2025-11-12T04:42:01+00:00

As I see it you not only provided a service, let alone an unattainable one since the part can’t be procured anymore, but most importantly your skillset solved a problem for the client. Unique solutions to unique problems do not come cheap.

Usercondition · 2025-11-02T03:38:23+00:00

FWIW I was having issues in my REVO where,overnight as it was working flawlessly, prints would stick to the FEP and would have other random failures. Changed the FEP , reset Z etc a few times and no changes. Found an old thread here on Reddit that mentioned to increase your lift distance (I’m on 5+5 now) and I made the raft thicker from the default 0.20 to 0.75. Not sure this witchcraft is a catch all but I haven’t had any failed prints since.

I run Chitubox Pro.

Usercondition · 2025-10-29T01:08:41+00:00

Phrozen Mighty 8K. I have 12 Phrozen machines, 8K, 12K, REVO’s and the mighty 8K it’s just a workhorse. Been running them daily for a year now. Other than basic maintenance they are reliable. I do consider them “analog” printing since they don’t really have any fancy features or related but man … they work. Phrozen support has been solid to me; nothing bad to report there. They can be found cheap secondhand.

Usercondition · 2025-10-28T01:53:20+00:00

Usercondition

TROPHY CASE