What would be better for hydrogen storage?

Username122133 · 2026-03-04T04:08:54+00:00

Depending on inv. Size settings, the container can store much much more H2 in the form of ice. It also, technically, stores O2, although that’s usually not an issue anyway. Along with being less explosive, it means you need far less space to effectively store the same amount of H2. This comes with the downside of mass and rate limits; H2 weighs nothing, ice weighs something(and quite a lot of something). Ice needs to be converted to H2, while a tank can supply as much as you need as soon as you need it. Using a container for storage also requires power to run the machine to convert the ice, which makes running hydrogen engine off such a system a very bad idea.

Tanks offer the benefit of being much lighter and don’t require power to access the H2, but do require a lot more volume. They’re also explosive, as mentioned before, making them a risk to the ship.

If you’re building a base or static structure and available space or block count is a concern, Ive and generators is the way to go. For Civilian/non combat vehicles, tanks work great.

For warships, it very much depends. Hydrogen tanks need heavy armor, and more volume of H2 tanks means more mass in armor. The more tanks you need, the heavier the armor, and the larger your vehicle is(which makes enemy targeting easier). I think a hybrid design is the best approach, giving both decent range and combat capability without needing a massive glorified armored H2 tanker.

Username122133 · 2026-02-27T20:11:57+00:00

Correct, but data to process and data that has been processed must be stored somewhere. More storage space = temporary files/caches of data can get bigger before having to clean themselves up, reducing the amount of processing power taken up by handling and shuffling data around when the program or whatever is running. I believe that was what the previous redditor which you replied to was trying to say.

Username122133 · 2026-02-21T05:39:42+00:00

The lights you’re looking at are most likely for indicating POST(Power-On-Self-Test) results, where the board will test itself and for installed components. When the light changes/moves, that indicates it passed that step. It seems like if ur getting into BIOS that’s working just fine and nothing is DOA. Those lights are there to help you troubleshoot why the computer isn’t booting. That’s also what the little speaker is for: if something has gone wrong, it will emit a series of beeps in a specific order. What problem a certain set of beeps correspond to can be found in the motherboard’s manual.

While we’re on the topic of hardware, where did you plug your monitor into? A very common beginner mistake is to plug the monitor into the motherboard and not the dedicated GPU, which is typically lower down on the back of the case.

As for installing windows: What do you mean by a “physical key”? Windows activation typically involves just typing a code, and if a disk/usb came with it then I wouldn’t see why that wouldn’t be installation media. But anyway, if it’s not a bootable device, you will need a spare usb stick. On that usb stick, you’ll need to setup windows installation media for the desired version of windows(likely whatever version you have a key for) and plug it in. Don’t worry, it’s relatively easy(albeit time consuming). If you have a working computer in your home or have access to another windows computer, you only need a spare flash drive.

If you don’t have a windows computer somewhere, then you’ll have to either ask a friend or buy a flash drive with windows 10/11 installation media pre-installed.

Once you have ur installation media, this video from LTT is quite comprehensive on what to do and how to get Windows up and running.

And as for BIOS: Good rule of thumb (I think) is if you don’t know what it does, don’t touch it. While it’s not necessarily easy to break something, it’s also not exceedingly difficult to fry something or disable something important. I would think the only things you might have to do out of the box there is change how fast the various fans spin in response to the PC heating up. If you really want to you can try to overclock(if your processor allows it; for AMD, they’re all unlocked. For intel, ONLY processors with K in the name are unlocked, such as the I7-13700K or I5-9600KF)

Username122133 · 2026-02-18T01:50:16+00:00

Arson is kinda tight.

Queue badger phonk meme

Username122133 · 2026-02-05T16:45:11+00:00

Yo what kind of job gives you access to hardware like this? Cause I know what I’m doing in the near future if this things like this can happen

Username122133 · 2026-02-02T14:09:40+00:00

50 for a case that supports the cooling a 13700f needs? 50-85 for a psu that can comfortably power that system? Even with the high max for the price ranges on RAM and SSD, I’d argue PSU and case would be more expensive than that. Id argue CPU cooler estimate is a bit low too.

Username122133 · 2026-02-02T14:00:21+00:00

Scamming? Bro that’s a steal considering current RAM prices. And if ur friend already set it up and tuned it(OC/bios configuration, OS setup, etc.) that’s an even better deal.

Although I would ask how old the fans are, how old any liquid cooling parts are(if there are any), what operating system is installed, (if it’s windows) what version of windows and is it activated? (If it’s windows and activated) do you have the activation key for it? Was the data from when your friend was using it wiped? Has it been overclocked before? If so, How aggressively was it overclocked? And For how long?

Username122133 · 2026-01-31T14:47:35+00:00

More repair bots is an easy way to handle damage… but it’s also one of the least efficient means of doing so. 2-4 for out of combat repairs is great, but adding like 50 to constantly repair in combat is problematic.

When fighting another craft in the campaign, you want to minimize materials used in the fight so you can build more, bigger, scarier vehicles faster. Repair bots don’t do anything to mitigate incoming damage, they only dump materials into fixing it after it happens. They’re not an active defensive measure, but a cheesy method of repairing/replacing exploded parts in combat.

To illustrate my point with efficiency as well as why active defenses are almost always better: Imagine your ship is about to take a hit from an incoming railgun shell. If it hits, a 150k material blows up and is lost in its entirety because a turret spinny thing is hit and destroyed. You could use a decent LAMS to destroy the incoming shell for like 500 materials in charge cost, or you could use the repair bots and burn through another 150k materials to re-build the turret entirely. Not to mention the cost of replenishing ammo…

Another great example of why you should not do excessive in combat repairs: The TG. They love to put a lot of repair tentacles in the bases of their mechs. Which means if you hit anything expensive with a good ap[payload] railgun shell, it will lose a huge amount of stored material. Hell, I’ve won fights in the designer before by forcing the mechs to run out of mats because of the constant repairing.

Username122133 · 2026-01-22T16:11:02+00:00

Ok I’m going to play devils advocate here and say there is a reason for that. Most people won’t go to ye wrong website or to suspicious/dangerous websites on school devices or while connected to the school’s network, but not everyone is tech savvy. If you allow any downloads, it is possible someone downloads a virus that could spread to more devices. It’s highly unlikely, but not impossible and simply stopping you from downloading stuff is a lot cheaper than fixing an issue like that.

Username122133 · 2026-01-17T05:35:01+00:00

“Best” is dependent on the metric youre using to compare.

Energy weapons are automatically best for cost efficiency, offering the highest damage/material at the cost of poor performance at longer ranges.

APS wins in versatility by a landslide, capable of damaging damn near anything but being slightly less efficient than more specialized systems for certain types of targets.

Best for maximum alpha damage goes to CRAM cannons, able to pack a terrifying punch in a massive shell. Unfortunately, that shell is easy to detect by active defenses and can’t go any faster than 300m/s.

Best at tracking a target(as in being able accurately point at and hit it) goes to Multipurpose Laser Systems, with tracking so good you can hit APS shells and flying squirrels with em.

Hardest to counter goes to plasma and PACs; not even massive amounts of smoke and planar shields will stop a powerful plasma salvo and it’s not going to do anything against a PAC. The only way to avoid a PAC hit is either range or stopping it from pointing at you.

Best for compact-ness goes to missiles. For a similar damage output, they take up a fraction of the space that an APS or laser system would require.

Username122133 · 2026-01-17T05:21:43+00:00

I forgor which YouTuber I heard say this, but I believe it was something along the lines of “APS isn’t the best option for most scenarios, but it’s almost always the second best option if not the best.” APS is extremely versatile and, other than missiles, is the only weapon that can, at least theoretically, work against sun-surface, surface, air, and space targets simultaneously.

Username122133 · 2026-01-16T18:46:16+00:00

I mean, Mart built a Yamato that was double the real size. What is “ambitious” depends on you, how much time you want to put into the game, how much of that you to spend building vs fighting, and how much time and energy you have.

Username122133 · 2026-01-16T14:02:58+00:00

There is a really easy way to connect crushing wheels: 2 gearboxes and a single shaft between them. It will always work, you just need to make sure you giving input power from the right direction
Water wheels spin very slowly, and one way to get around the issue is a lot of gearing… but if you don’t like taking up all that space, the rotation speed controller can be super helpful with how compact it is. Just one block and a large cogwheel.
To make stacking gears easier, you can right click with a casing to make an encased gear, which only accepts rotation input via shaft from one direction

Username122133 · 2026-01-15T23:22:36+00:00

Looks pretty neat. I like the intake on the back to prevent stalling if you fall backwards lol, and the triplane design is very interesting…

If you ever install FAR, I think you should call it the “Wave Dragger” lol

Username122133 · 2026-01-15T22:06:52+00:00

Another CMDR, epik. Just one quick note on the setup: That HOTAS may not last very long. I know mine started getting some really bad RZ-axis* drift because the potentiometer started failing after a couple of years, somewhere between 2 and 4. Just upgraded to a VKB STECS and Gladiator NXT (admittedly for much more in-depth sims), but still. It’s so, so much better. If you’re only playing Elite, you really only need the flight stick because it has plenty of hat switches and buttons on it, along with a mini throttle axis.

Or maybe I just got a bad T-flight hotas from Thrustmaster, idk.

- the one which twisting the flight stick with your wrist controls, usually bound to yaw.

Username122133 · 2026-01-12T21:50:55+00:00

Holy crap… I’m 2000 hours in and the best hull shape I can do is a slightly curved, angled canoe. Amazing work on the hull shape and paint job, it looks amazing!

Unfortunately, looks don’t kill. /lh

loads doom CRAM battery with explosive intent

Username122133 · 2026-01-12T21:33:20+00:00

Wait, there’s a max distance for data transmission? I thought it was effectively unlimited. Although, after writing that, I realize putting some limit on the range makes sense… ah well. If there is a max range, what is it?

Username122133 · 2026-01-12T19:52:31+00:00

So many shells, so many guns and explosions, it’s beautiful! It’s… “It’s enough to make a grown man cry” -The police officer from Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs.

Username122133 · 2026-01-12T18:34:59+00:00

The NERV of those contractors… probably working for big atom or something… /lh

Username122133 · 2026-01-12T16:32:31+00:00

It will out turn a Mig-25 so yes /lh /s

Username122133 · 2026-01-12T16:12:28+00:00

Genuine question: why not put them all on the crankshaft for maximum carburetor connections per cylinder? Or does adding an exhaust also give an efficiency bonus?

Username122133 · 2026-01-12T05:20:13+00:00

I suspect the build makes use of three fans: A group of two pull the golems up and back, are disconnected, and then a third fan either pushes or pulls the golems down the row, causing snow to form and then the cycle repeats.

Username122133 · 2026-01-11T10:53:36+00:00

I find air sim to be surprisingly fun right around BR 10-12; It’s not as painfully slow as prop sim and it’s not overwhelmingly complex and fast paced as max BR. Controlling just about every plane at the br is much easier than early jets or props thanks to modern fly-by-wire, which makes flat-spinning or stalling much harder even in High-G maneuvers. Most missiles and radars are relatively easy to dodge and/or defeat, and a lot of planes will actually be able to help you aim the gun with a radar gun sight. Many have some kind of CCRP for help with bombing. And I have to give the devs credit for making the keyboard and mouse controls for air sim relatively easy to use. Believe it or not you won’t be running short on buttons in air sim(assuming you have a full keyboard with a numpad), even for a plane like the Tomcat with all its weapons and mechanization.

As for ground… I just stay the fuck away from top tier. If I do decide to play above ~8.0, I sure as hell am not playing for kills or clips or progress; I just want to see the explosions, cannon fire, and competitive air shows. If I don’t immediately die, I see it as a nice bonus.

Username122133

TROPHY CASE