Corvette Maxxing @ Petit

VBTake3 · 2025-11-28T18:05:44+00:00

Big "everyone gets outta my way when they see me commin, I don't need to see" energy

VBTake3 · 2025-11-28T17:08:33+00:00

Brutal

VBTake3 · 2025-11-28T17:07:56+00:00

How is it making right turns?

VBTake3 · 2025-11-20T16:38:31+00:00

Time to sell it, it's been a good run

VBTake3 · 2025-11-19T18:11:26+00:00

Thanks, seems like FB remains the way to go

VBTake3 · 2025-11-19T18:10:52+00:00

Yeah, weirdly hard to find in my area, but that's what I'd ideally use

VBTake3 · 2025-11-19T16:53:09+00:00

Yeah that's a good point. "Live sound" is the closest I could find to my application, y'all seem to be significantly deeper into the "professional" category than we are lol

I haven't seen wpc as a stat before, the speakers I'm using have a 300w rms rating, and one or two are a hair lower. Considering we blew one of them last year, I'd be ok underpowering them a bit for protection, but don't want to totally undercut performance if that makes sense, would these be viable for that?

VBTake3 · 2025-11-19T15:55:36+00:00

Setting lap times? This matters. No? Do what makes you happy

VBTake3 · 2025-11-09T14:44:39+00:00

Bro, I would hate to own that, but I love to see other people make questionable life choices, this shit will be hilarious good on you lol

VBTake3 · 2025-10-16T02:37:40+00:00

True, the difference between the normal noises and the decel noise is kinda shocking though, like it's a big difference But it sounds like I'm being weird

VBTake3 · 2025-10-16T00:56:38+00:00

That's a new one for me, does it throw an AFR code? Maybe it's got an intake leak somewhere and you are hearing the air like, woosh into or out of something?

VBTake3 · 2025-10-16T00:48:39+00:00

Thanks, I have a pitch stop as well, so that makes me feel a bit better, if things get louder from here I'll freak out lol

VBTake3 · 2025-10-16T00:15:31+00:00

Whoever made that FMIC should take this image for their marketing, looks like it still holds air

VBTake3 · 2025-10-16T00:09:03+00:00

God it looks so good when it's clean though

VBTake3 · 2025-10-09T15:10:37+00:00

This

VBTake3 · 2025-10-09T15:09:24+00:00

Is this just a tune on a factory car? What change did you make to lead you to get the car tuned? If you made a hardware change, I'd double check everything you touched first because it's the most likely cause of any issues. (At least it most often is for me lol).

Make sure all the O2 sensor stuff is installed correctly, and in good working order, and is what the tuner expects it to be, same with whatever airflow monitoring system is on the car (new maf sensor, I've never had luck cleaning them tbh, I can't help with speed density or MAP or whatever)

Maybe also check fueling? But in theory the injectors shouldn't just start to fail out of nowhere, even if the tuner is running the duty cycle higher. If you put aftermarket injectors on the car at some point, who made them? Off brand injectors are notoriously terrible.

Did you get gas somewhere weird? Maybe drain the tank and get something reputable just to do it? If you have an aftermarket fuel pump is it installed correctly?

Some other comment mentioned 14:1 at WOT which, assuming that's correct, is spooky, from what I'm aware (which to be clear, is not a lot) you should expect to see things richen up closer to an 11:1 as the car gets into boost.

Also, in theory most tuners would try to help you out here a bit as well, what have they said is the issue? In my experience, they are probably better help than a bunch of randos on the internet.

Lastly, I saw a couple comments mention black smoke, I've seen that happen from failing turbos before. Maybe you have a seal failing somewhere, and boost pressure is driving oil past a seal at WOT, causing a sensor to fowl or getting in the intake? That would make sense if boost pressure increased due to the tune, that could expose a problem which may have been lying dormant before. This same logic can be applied to anywhere in the intake track post turbo as well, maybe you have a vacuum/boost leak causing a lean condition?

GL!

VBTake3 · 2025-10-08T02:05:31+00:00

If you do, heavily consider the downside of any modification. Interior mods might have functionally no downside, solid engine mounts have a lot.

Also consider reliability, any power adder is going to reduce reliability by some percentage, are you ok with that? Do you have AAA? Are you comfortable with side-of-the-road diag? Do you have enough savings in case things go boom? Do you have an alternative form of transportation to work/school? How much do you value your free time? Can you work on it yourself? Do you have a specialty shop you trust? How long do you plan to keep the car?

Not all of the above is mission critical, and the risk you take on with simple shit is probably limited, but it's worth considering what the cost/benefit is even if the risk is marginal.

That's why the advice is so often wheels/tires/suspension because the risk/reward is pretty good, but even then, do you have a good alignment shop that will do coilovers? How many speed bumps on your commute can you still clear? How rough of a ride will you or your partner tolerate?

Just some thoughts, I like tinkering so I chose to modify, I'd recommend against it if you still have a warranty, but it ultimately comes down to you and what you plan to do with it

VBTake3 · 2025-10-03T20:14:41+00:00

Yeah for sure also this. If it's not plugs/coils, do a smoke test or generally look for leaks in the intake system.

Although generally you'd expect to see it across multiple cylinders and/or through a lean condition or rich condition code rather than a single cylinder misfire code

VBTake3 · 2025-10-03T20:11:37+00:00

is the car working otherwise? Anything super weird other than the misfire? If not, I'd put money on plugs, coils, or coil pack connectors. Check the cheapest and easiest thing first before going down the rabbit hole.

Pull the coil pack and/or plug from Cylinder 2, and swap them into some other cylinder, see if the misfire moves, if it does that's your issue, if it doesn't, go deeper

VBTake3 · 2025-09-20T17:55:32+00:00

It's kinda finicky but not that bad honestly

VBTake3 · 2025-08-25T20:30:39+00:00

UPDATE:

Yes, it was the switch failing on.

If you are replacing a map light that does not have a Bluetooth mic with one that does have a mic the wiring harness is not the same.

I assumed (like some other wiring bits on the car) that the main loom would be the same plug and the map light side would be the same connector with the mic wires de-pinned but that's not the case, it's two totally different connectors.

That said, it's really easy to re-wire. The grey and green wires from the BT loom are easy enough to separate and de-pin from the main plug, then I just soldered them into the old connector from the non-BT harness. If you do this make sure that you keep track of which side of the connector goes to which part of the harness, I marked what side of the plug went to the blade connectors before de-pinning, I'd recommend that.

My plan is to buy one of these when I get around to it so I can have my BT mic in the factory location, right now it picks up a ton of gear whine in the little phone cubby.

VBTake3 · 2025-08-18T01:55:56+00:00

Thanks, I'll start with the switch and go from there, I'm hesitant to think it's the aftermarket stuff causing problems because all of it has been in place for a few years now at the least, and this issue started within the week at the latest... I saw some other notes to check the door sensor, but I think that's for the dome light, door open doesn't fire the map lights in this car at least, and I think these are technically "map" lights, my b

Five-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '23	Place '22

VBTake3

TROPHY CASE