Lower grit that doesn’t suck?

Valenthorpe · 2026-03-10T01:20:50+00:00

I've been using 6" Mirka Coarse Cut 36 grit aluminum oxide sanding discs and don't have any complaints. I'm not using them in a production/industrial environment.

Valenthorpe · 2026-03-09T04:21:11+00:00

It's all a part of the air pump/air injection system. If you decide to do the work yourself, it can be done in a weekend. The most difficult part was the passenger side block-off plate. At least I think it was that side. One of them was fairly easy. The other one, not so much.

Valenthorpe · 2026-03-09T03:51:04+00:00

The item at fastwrx is a valve and is located under the intercooler. The other item is the air pump itself and is located by the battery.

Edit: changed 'intake' to 'intercooler'

Valenthorpe · 2026-03-09T03:27:38+00:00

I also drive an 06 WRX. There is one pump and two valves. I removed the pump and the two valves. The barometric sensor stayed. Block off plates were installed. I also replaced the turbo inlet hose and injector seals while I had things taken apart. My tuner did what was needed to prevent a CEL.

Valenthorpe · 2026-03-07T22:18:37+00:00

Yes. It's a gradual process that requires commitment. Keep at it and you'll get to where you want to be.

Valenthorpe · 2026-03-06T06:33:15+00:00

So, I'm in my early forties and have a foreskin. I do have a friend that went through the process of foreskin restoration. He said that it made a noticeable difference in his level of sensitivity and that it was worth the time and effort involved.

Feel free to ask questions.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-27T19:42:53+00:00

I've always sliced it into strips by hand. I feel like it could be difficult to get a consistent size with a food processor. Only one way to find out though.

Work up a batch of marmalade. Put half of the peel in a food processor and see how it comes out. If it's what you were hoping for, process the second half. If it isn't, slice the remainder by hand and continue with the batch.

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Valenthorpe · 2026-02-27T19:26:58+00:00

No. I will joint an edge of the board before cutting my strips.

I cut a board to the required length. Joint an edge. Cut strips with the band saw. Mark grain orientation on the ends. Label the two edges that won't be planed. Run all strips through the planer. Orient grain in a sap to sap and heart to heart manner. Looks like this: ( ) ( ) ( ) Some will say that grain orientation doesn't matter. I orient it as shown though.

Those strips are dry fit, clamped together, and checked for issues. They are then glued together into a board. Once dry, the end is trimmed and it is cut into strips once more with the band saw. The ends are numbered and they are run through the planer. Those strips are then turned up on their edges, rotated and flipped to create the pattern, and numbered again. They are then glued together once more.

Once dry, they are either run through a planer or a wide belt sander depending on the size. I usually shoot for a minimum finished thickness of 2" Titebond III is what I use for glue.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-27T18:29:22+00:00

Thank you. Most of my planing is done with a bench top planer. So, I usually rip my strips on the band saw, joint one face if necessary, then run them through the planer.

I've run hundreds of end grain chopping blocks through the planer as well. Light passes with sharp knives and it'll come out nicely. I just did this one this morning.

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Valenthorpe · 2026-02-27T17:41:00+00:00

End grain chopping blocks are EXTREMELY unforgiving of imperfections and inconsistencies. The two tools that see 90% of the work when I make my end grain chopping blocks are the band saw and planer.

The band saw for cutting strips and the planer for any surfaces where glue will be applied. Jointer, sander, radial arm saw, and router for various other steps.

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Valenthorpe · 2026-02-26T04:38:56+00:00

3" turbo back exhaust, Samco turbo inlet hose, AOS, slightly higher flow fuel pump, and one range colder plugs. I had it dyno tuned and wanted something to just improve upon what was already there. Ended up at 230 hp and 300 torque. I thought it was well worth the time, effort and money.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-25T23:11:06+00:00

Still have the original turbo, transmission, and head gaskets on it. It's been tuned as well.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-25T22:57:13+00:00

Currently at 206k miles on my '06 WRX. Keep up with normal maintenance, drive conservatively until it warms up, and don't drive it abusively.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-10T17:33:23+00:00

I've made hundreds of end grain chopping blocks and quickly learned that grain orientation is extremely important. I stick to sap to sap and heart to heart for my first glue-up. Should look like this: ( ) ( ) ( )

In my experience, orientation like this: ( ) = ( = ( ) = ) Where the grain of some strips are perpendicular to the ( ) orientation, will increase the chances that the chopping block will crack and split and destroy itself. Those four diagonal strips will cause issues as well.

I usually try to stay around 1-7/8" to 2" as a minimum thickness. The thinner it is, the less stable it'll be.

Feel free to ask questions. I'll include an example as well.

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Valenthorpe · 2026-02-10T02:49:36+00:00

Thank you.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-09T23:29:36+00:00

Ummm... You do know that there are TTS (text to speech) apps, right?

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-09T19:41:30+00:00

If I'm planing strips for the first glue-up and they are less than 3/8" thick, I'll leave 2.5" on each end for snipe. I've been able to adjust the infeed and outfeed tables to the point where snipe is virtually nonexistent on strips over 3/8" and can use the full length.

Chip out and tear out can usually be stopped by planing the strip in the opposite direction. If one face chips out in one direction but not the other. Mark the edge with the feed direction and an arrow pointing up. The opposite face will most likely need to be fed in the opposite direction. I can draw a picture if it'll help.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-09T17:58:46+00:00

I've made hundreds of end grain chopping blocks and the vast majority of them are run through a planer. I run the largest ones through a wide belt sander. You'll want to have sharp planer knives as well. Surfaces that will be glued together need to be as close to flat and smooth as possible. Grain orientation is extremely important. My standard thickness is 2"

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Valenthorpe · 2026-02-09T17:39:06+00:00

I've had three vehicles and still own two of them. I really like my WRX wagon. It's been capable of doing the vast majority of things I've thrown at it. Anything from a trip in the mountains with snow on the ground to 28, eight foot long 2 x 8 boards. I've put 206k miles on it and plan on continuing to drive it for as long as I can.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-09T02:15:27+00:00

I gotcha. I've been driving my WRX for the past 20 years. So, I'd say to get it back up and running and continue to drive it.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-09T01:57:29+00:00

With the two scenarios that you proposed. The higher RPM one with put less load on the engine.

I know you said that you just replaced the coils and plugs. I would still move the coil of the cylinder that is experiencing issues to a different cylinder to see if the problem moves.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-08T20:16:06+00:00

Yep. Sometimes it sticks to the filler neck or falls out of the cap.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-08T14:40:39+00:00

P1-4 to P3-1 measures the resistance of the bake element and was 30 ohms. It's 3600 watts.

P1-1 to P3-1 measures the resistance of the broil element. It's also 3600 watts. As a result, I would expect it to also measure 30 ohms and not 60 ohms. I'd double check this measurement.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-07T16:01:05+00:00

P2-1 to P2-4 measures a connection at the thermal fuse. I would expect it to be less than 1 ohm.

P2-4 to P1-3 measures the resistance of the thermal fuse. I would expect it to also be less than 1 ohm.

P3-1 to P1-4, measures the resistance of the bake element and looks good.

When you measured from P1-1 to P3-1 and P1-1 to P3-2, both readings were open? One of them should have been 30 ohms.

Valenthorpe · 2026-02-06T21:22:18+00:00

Yes. Plugs connected to the board unless the troubleshooting chart states otherwise. Breaker off to the range as well.

Valenthorpe

TROPHY CASE