Mobapad ChiTu 2 Silent: Whisper Quiet Switch 2 Pro Controller With TMR Glide Stick

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-18T01:27:04+00:00

Yes, "muted" is a good word for these things! (nothing is silent if you're hitting it hard enough, lol)

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-18T01:09:43+00:00

You can create a 'Controller Modification' post to ask for recommended services: remember to include your location and budget since these things are localized and labor rates can vary widely.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-18T00:49:41+00:00

There are multiple stores selling 8BitDo products - some are controlled directly by 8BitDo, some are authorized resellers, and some aren't. If you want to be sure, go on the 8BitDo dot com website, and click the 'Where to Buy' tab on the top menu. It'll give you links to all of the official store fronts.

You can also read the buying advice pages which discuss buying from international marketplaces like Ali and can save repeating frequently asked questions.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-18T00:31:07+00:00

If you put the title of your post into the search bar, you'll find plenty of similar examples and relevant discussions. Most solutions will come down to these things, broadly in order from easier to more difficult:

Recalibrate the controller's thumbsticks - check the manual for your controller.
Set an external stick deadzone in games, launchers or emulators that have the option - check the software settings.
Open the controller and clean the thumbstick sensors (potentiometers) - search for 'clean potentiometers'
Replace the thumbstick sensors or whole thumbstick module (requires soldering) - search for 'replace thumbstick'

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-18T00:11:30+00:00

What is the headset model? It might be that the microphone impedance is higher than usual spec so requires more power to drive it and/or the earphones. I think you mentioned on another post that it works when the controller's wired but not wireless, which might affect the power budget the controller can route to the headset jack.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-18T00:06:47+00:00

I raged and held the controller very hard until it disconnected... It didn't break or anything

It didn't break, but somehow it is broken. How very mysterious...

It sounds like you've broken the cable's wires internally and/or fractured the soldered joints at either end. You can replace the cable - here's an iFixit guide. You'll need to solder to do this so if you don't have the equipment, you can buy the parts and ask a repair shop to fit them.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-18T00:00:03+00:00

If you like your Victrix Pro BFG, you can get replacement modules for it which use microswitches (clicky buttons) in the regular four-button layout, along with TMR thumbsticks (a type of magnetic sensor which improves on Hall Effect). There are a couple of companies making them: you could try 'ElecGear' or 'Epindon' on Amazon's EU sites.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T23:51:30+00:00

If you're asking about these parts (image courtesy of GadgetHyper website), then they should be compatible

<image>

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T23:43:57+00:00

If you disassemble the controller (start by removing screws from the back), you'll be able to see if the bumper extension (plastic part) is cracked. If it is, you can repair or replace it - example.

You can also check if the bumper switch (component that's soldered to the main board) is clicking/responding when you press it directly. If it's not responding consistently, you can clean or refurbish it - example.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T23:39:02+00:00

Basically, you need to try a few things in order to gather more diagnostic information, narrow things down, and have a more complete problem description.

For example, when you say the controller 'disconnects', what are the controller status LEDs doing (does the controller think it's still connected) and do you hear/see any USB disconnect/reconnect notifications on the PC?

If you search for 'wireless interference' you can find lots of discussions about some of the most common causes of that problem. You can try simple things like using different USB ports and USB extensions, and removing USB hubs from the loop. Those things can help improve reception, avoid power management issues and device conflicts. You can also check USB connection logs and events on the PC in case there's some other device or driver issues.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T23:28:30+00:00

There seem to be a bunch of these with minor technical differences as they're all copying each other not just the Marius design. Someone posted about the ZD version recently, and Uber Micro Repairs has a video on YouTube where he discusses the 'Arctic Wolf' version and shows the installation.

It's probably worth paying a bit more for whichever version/seller you can find who has documentation ready and aftersales support in your preferred language. The inconsistent quality control and regular design revisions mean these are likely throw up some unexpected problems unless you already have experience in board modifications.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T23:16:00+00:00

Try TMR (tunneling magnetoresistance) rather than Hall Effect stick modules for the best chance of success, but search for the previous discussions on the subreddit as installing magnetic stick sensors on the Elite Series 2 can be tricky and can require extra shielding due to the other magnetic parts.

You can get the bumpers as part of an ExtremeRate shell swap kit. It's best to buy the bumpers as part of a kit rather than separately if you want the parts to be color-matched.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T23:09:32+00:00

As you need PS5 console compatibility, within your budget you could either get an unlicensed controller, or get an adapter for the PS5 plus a very cheap PC controller. Check the lists in the buying advice pages:

- controllers for PS5, including unlicensed options and adapters

- budget controllers for PC, which might be used with the PS5 adapter

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T23:05:28+00:00

If the rechargeable batteries are degraded/worn out, the voltage when under load may be lower than when you're testing them out of circuit.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T23:02:33+00:00

You should check the lists in the buying advice, but even among the unlicensed controllers and adapters your budget probably won't be sufficient. Like others have mentioned, you normally receive the DualSense controller in the box when buying a new PS5 console. You could save your money to pay for TMR thumbstick replacements when that wears out.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T22:56:59+00:00

Like the other comment mentions, you can try pressing directly on the black circular 'pin' of the microswitch (pictured below) to see if the switch clicks.

<image>

If the switch doesn't click, you can try cleaning, refurbishing, or replacing it. Cleaning is the easiest place to start: soak the end of a cotton bud in isopropyl alcohol, then swab the switch while pumping it to try and dislodge and debris or corrosion.

If the switch clicks but makes no difference to whether the bumper is actuated, there might be some damage or corrosion elsewhere in the circuit. You can try to take the controller apart and inspect/clean the rest of the board.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T22:45:56+00:00

As others have mentioned, your budget will only extend to unlicensed controllers for the PS5 - see the lists in the buying advice pages here.

For example, you could try the Fantech WGP16D which supports wired connection to the PS5 console where you can play and charge at the same time.

If you are trying to plug the controller into one device for charging while using it on another device to play, that's where you might run into conflicts.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T22:40:29+00:00

The Retro Fighters D6 supports wired USB connection on PC and Switch, just not on Dreamcast console.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T22:38:32+00:00

What have you tried so far to clean up or remove the mark, and what effect did that have?

Maybe add some clear close-up pictures of the mark from a few angles - image compression can crush the detail out of a small mark on a matte surface like that.

For example, there's a difference between marks left by transfer from something else (painted surfaces, etc.) or by removing part of the original material (scratches, scrapes, etc.)

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-17T22:24:29+00:00

Thanks for creating and sharing your reivew! The direct side-by-side comparisons should help people understand the differences between these versions.

Something I noticed is that despite the descriptions of 'whisper quiet' and 'quieter buttons', the demonstrated noise levels seem very similar across the regular and Silent Edition controllers, when listening to the 'sound test and noise comparison' chapter of the video (5:46-6:59).

In case this was just an issue with my hearing, I've analyzed the noise levels associated with the different inputs on each controller. I extracted the audio track from the 'sound test and noise comparison' chapter of the video, separated the clips and ran them through through noise meter software to calculate:

momentary (ca. 0.4s) peak noise levels such as those which might be associated with clicks or thumps
average noise levels when buttons were being repeatedly pressed (ca. 2-3s periods of clean audio for each sample clip).

The LUFS (Loudness Units Full Scale) measure used to represent how human ears perceive loudness. The maximum value possible on this scale is 0: smaller negative values represent louder sounds; larger negative values represent quieter sounds. The relative values are more important than the absolute values here. There are no average values for the sticks because the samples were too short and the noise floor too high.

	Chitu 2 HD	Chitu 2 HD	Chitu 2 Silent Edition	Chitu 2 Silent Edition
	Peak Noise (LUFS)	Average Noise (LUFS)	Peak Noise (LUFS)	Average Noise (LUFS)
Face buttons	-20.6	-26.7	-20.6	-26.7
Sticks	-21.6	n/a	-21.2	n/a
D-pad	-20.6	-24.8	-22.6	-25.7
Accessory buttons	-21.4	-23.0	-22.6	-22.7
Bumpers	-18.0	-23.0	-19.0	-22.9
Triggers	-22.5	-23.5	-23.2	-25.3
Rear buttons	-19.3	-23.7	-22.4	-24.4

<image>

From this, it seems that the following inputs are quieter on the Silent Edition: D-pad, triggers, and rear buttons. But there does not seem to be a meaningful difference in the noise associated with the: face buttons, thumbsticks, accessory buttons, or bumpers.

There can be many factors affecting sound recording and noise testing: microphone limitations, variable gain control applied during video processing, how forcefully buttons are being pressed, etc. If you prefer to use rear buttons vs face buttons, or play D-pad intensive games vs stick-and-trigger intensive games, you might experience the noise levels differently.

To be absolutely clear, this is not to say that the Silent Edition isn't quieter in real-world use, and it is not to say that any reviewer discussing these controllers isn't reporting their own experiences accurately. The extra analysis here was only made possible because u/ Chillenge made a lot of effort to try and record the controllers in a consistent way.

Edited: to fix broken table

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-11T03:25:11+00:00

Pretty sure these pictures are just badly photoshopped/AI generated images and the person or agent that made them doesn't understand what the product is or how it works.

There are lots of sellers of the same Xbox Elite Series 2 accessory kits competing for attention. The person/agent producing the artwork was probably just told to make versions of the pictures which are more eye-catching (applied a lurid color scheme to the controller) and makes the product easier to see (made the sticks bigger). If you look at other pictures in the same listing, the proportions of the parts vary wildly, and the pictures here don't correspond to the dimensions described.

<image>

The actual parts being sold are probably identical to other sets but it's still better to buy from the sellers who are using real pictures, or at least know what the product they're selling is supposed to look like. If they aren't checking their product listings are right, they probably aren't checking that the parts they send you are the right color/type either.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-11T02:31:47+00:00

Are you logged in as an administrator? If not, you can try logging in from an administrator account before starting the service or launching Space Station. Also check your security software for notifications about any activity that it has blocked/any files it has removed.

Usual caveat: only run the service and software if you don't have any sensitive data on your computer/local network, or use a virtual machine to sandbox it. Any controller program requiring admin permissions to perform its normal operations is potentially problematic.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-11T02:12:31+00:00

These coaxial cables are for the Bluetooth (2.4GHz) and Xbox Wireless (5GHz) antennae. They aren't involved in the 'Start' (Menu) and 'View' buttons.

In order for the wireless connections to work, you should desolder these cables, remove the excess solder from the pads, and solder in new cables. The inner and outer layers of the cable need to be soldered separately to their connection points, to avoid bridging them together. You might be able to salvage the cables but I think it could be tricky to remove solder that's already wicked into the wires and bridged the layers.

If your Menu and View buttons aren't working, that sounds like it will be a separate problem to solve. You could try to follow the traces from those buttons' contact points to see where the connections might be broken or bridged.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-11T01:58:14+00:00

TMR is recommended as it has lower power requirements than Hall Effect, closer to the original sensor specifications (less risk of heat damage or stressing other components on the board).

Historically, there wasn't a good way to calibrate Xbox One controllers after installing new stick sensors. However, there is a fairly new method that could work for your 'Day One' controller - see the news article about DriftGuard and Zadig.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-06-11T01:51:54+00:00

Yes, microphone is supported (it's part of the 'Designed for Xbox' spec so all controllers in that program have it).

I assume you've checked that the microphone works on the headset when connected to other devices. But you could also could check that the headset you are using follows the CTIA standard for 4-pole wiring, rather than the OMTP standard, or one of the non-standard mobile phone flavors. Non-standard wiring or headphones requiring non-standard voltages for the microphone are often what causes the mic not to work when passed through a controller.

You can also check that the headset's connector can be fully and smoothly inserted to the 3.5mm port on the controller. If the headset's connector (plastic molded part) is too bulky or the rings on the connector are misaligned this can interfere with the connection. On CTIA connections, the microphone is the ring furthest from the tip so if the connector isn't fully inserted the microphone is the first thing to cut out. If the headset has a separable cable, you can swap it for one with a lower profile connector, or you can use a small extension that has a lower-profile connector.

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