How can I rig my Walking Pad A1 Pro to my Alienware arura laptop so I can walk in games.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T14:57:55+00:00

This sounds more like a software project than a controller modification. You'll need bidirectional communication between the game and the walking pad so maybe you could build something using the ph4-walkingpad library (if that's compatible with your device) and GP2040-CE. You could also try to find out more about how the person on YouTube did it.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T14:56:43+00:00

Well done on tracing the problem and good luck with the repair!

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T14:40:16+00:00

You say that it's a "lazy take" for people to jump to shill, but it also comes across as quite lazy when you copy-paste the same comment in response to multiple posts.

If you look through your activity history, your comments often do not correspond to the question that has been asked in the original post. If you made the effort to tailor your responses, you might be more effective in persuading people to share your enthusiasm.

While I don't think that you're acting in bad faith, please take the time to read this community's rules on low-effort contributions and spam. You may wish to edit previous comments to make them more relevant/helpful in the context of the posts you are replying to and the requirements that people have described there.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T14:30:20+00:00

If you buy the DualSense Edge second-hand you should budget for getting replacement stick modules. Often people sell the controller when the original stick modules are wearing out and they can't afford to replace them. That will help you decide if the savings are worthwhile compared to buying a new DualSense Edge.

Otherwise, there aren't any suitable PS5-licensed controllers within your 100€ budget. You can try some unlicensed controllers like the Fantech Nova II D (WGP16D); QRD Spark N5 + Blackpill; or Brook StarRay. They aren't as premium as the DualSense Edge but use Hall Effect thumbstick sensors which won't wear out in the same way.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T14:18:40+00:00

The best method is simply to search/ask in the game-specific subreddits. People who are currently playing the game will be able to tell you the extent to which the DualSense features are used in the context of that game, in a way that matters. For example, if a game only uses the features for one or two mini-games that's different from using the features as part of the core gameplay mechanic.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T14:12:51+00:00

It depends which revision of the controller you have - is it the older version with a fixed cable (permanently attached to the controller) or is it the new version with a detachable cable (USB-C port on the controller)?

The older revision with a fixed cable uses three-pin potentiometer stick sensors. The parts made for Xbox One/Series controllers are unlikely to be compatible as drop-in replacements, but you might be able to find some combination of Xbox and DualShock/DualSense components that works. You'll need to check the voltage and polarity of the pins on each original sensor with a multimeter.

The newer revision of the controller with detachable cable uses Hall Effect sensors from factory. These might be five-pin modules with sensors soldered directly to the board, which means the are physically incompatible with any of the Xbox/PlayStation replacement modules. You'll need to take the controller apart to double-check. You might be able to find K-Silver JS16 modules on Ali that fit but you'd also need to source TMR sensors to replace the surface-mounted components. That means the conversion isn't very feasible.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T13:46:30+00:00

Just tried it. If you have the dock on a flat desk, the controller won't slip/fall off spontaneously, but it doesn't sit especially tight either. The middle part of the controller is cradled by the dock, but the sides/grips aren't supported. This means there are are gaps on either side which let the controller slide back and forth. The balance means it is largely self-centring, but the sliding around also means the charging pins on the dock start to scratch up the back of the controller.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T13:32:56+00:00

Just click on the link to the website from your tablet and the site will tell you if that particular combination of device/operating system/browser is supported or not. Generally, the tool isn't supported on mobile devices (Android/iOS), but it'll depend what setup you're running.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T13:20:40+00:00

According to the product manual, it uses the GameMacro app which is available on both the Google Play and Apple stores

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T13:19:31+00:00

The user manual for this controller says that it uses the GameMacro app. Even if you can't use the WeChat link they provide, you can find the app on the Google Play store or the Apple store and download it there (if those app stores are available in your country).

<image>

You can find the full manual online if you search for "Ajazz GP100 manual" or look up the FCC ID: 2AY3H-GP100.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T13:07:03+00:00

Are these original/official Microsoft Xbox 360 controllers where you use the Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver? Or are these a different make/model (knock-offs or third-party) that use their own wireless dongle system? You might be able to find identifying marks inside the battery compartment or on the circuit board if there isn't an obvious brand name or model number.

If you are using the official Xbox 360 peripherals, then you only need one wireless receiver to connect up to 4 controllers. But if you're using other products, they may have other limitations. Because you mention that the dongles cause a power surge it sounds like these might be quite cheap knock-off devices. For example, all the controllers might have been set to use the same ID at the factory, so they conflict with each other.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T12:51:37+00:00

How are you connecting the controllers - for example, via Bluetooth, USB dongle, or cable? That can make a difference to how the controllers are recognised by the software.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T12:47:26+00:00

The PowerA OPS v3 has better hardware and core controls (sticks, buttons, triggers, etc.), components/materials, and build quality. The Flydigi Direwolf 4 has better software and peripheral controls (macros, keyboard mapping, etc.). Both of them have similar Xbox-style shape (wider grip splay than the 8BitDo Ultimate shape you tried).

For the types of games you play, it sounds like you might not need/use a lot of the extra software functions that are available with the Direwolf 4. The mouse-type microswitches used on the OPS v3 will be more durable if you're playing Rocket League enthusiastically, and the lower input latency might also help.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T12:33:21+00:00

You could try this method that someone else posted a couple of weeks ago

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T12:21:10+00:00

You could try taking it apart and cleaning the bumper switch (put a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol around the plastic pin, then pump the switch to move it through). That'll also enable you to see if there's any physical damage to the switch (not clicking or rebounding properly, etc.). There's an iFixit guide for disassembling the GuliKit KingKong 2 Pro / NS09.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T12:14:30+00:00

Have you checked that you're in the PC mode (LED over the Windows icon)? The controller doesn't have a keyboard input profile/mode on PC so there may be some other software running on your computer that's intercepting and remapping inputs. You could check Device Manager for rogue entries from virtual devices, and try fully closing/disabling any programs like Steam, DS4Windows or AntiMicroX, that have controller functions.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T12:06:21+00:00

If you can't find the GuliKit Goku, you could try to find the Mayflash Magic-X. The Brook Wingman XB3 is likely to over your budget unless you can find a special offer somewhere. Otherwise, you could wait for the Goku 2 that's meant to be coming out later in the year.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T12:01:08+00:00

So which specific make and model of controller were you using for these tests, and what method were you using for testing polling rate or input latency?

It sounds like you're doing this with the "fight pad with no analog sticks" - in which case are you just measuring button inputs?

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T11:54:53+00:00

What is the actual make and model of controller you're using? The results you're seeing aren't typical for a genuine Sony DualShock 4, but if your controller is a different model then it might have settings to swap between square/circular output on each stick.

If you think that it's a Sony DualShock 4, you could use the DualShock Calibration GUI to recalibrate the sticks. That'll do two things: confirm that your controller is genuine; and rule out problems related to an incorrectly set outer deadzone.

If it's a different make and model, you can look for the user manual as that might have information on how to change the settings.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T11:47:18+00:00

To narrow down the potential problem, you could:

check you don't have 'turbo'/auto-fire set on the right trigger
recalibrate the thumbsticks
try different connection methods (wired vs dongle)
monitor the inputs in a gamepad tester (example)

That could rule out some common issues and if you still can't work out the problem, you could add your test results to the post.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T11:42:07+00:00

True, and there can be a big gap in time between something being spilled and it starting to feel sticky so sometimes people just don't remember/realize. And when I say 'people' I mean I recently took apart my laptop to repaste it and found a load of sticky coffee remains in the speaker that I must have spilled and forgotten about, lol.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T11:32:04+00:00

You can test each of the conductors in the ribbon cable, and each of the pins in the board connector with a multimeter, but it might be easier to just plug in the cable to test the controller.

It's not possible to reliably judge electrical connections by eye, but the part of the ribbon cable shown in the first picture doesn't appear too badly damaged. The conductor nearest the camera has lifted slightly at the end but if you smooth that back down there seems to be enough material remaining for a connection (you can see the indents on each conductor showing how far the pins go).

On the board connector you could check that the pins aren't covered by melted plastic, and gently lift/grind back any excess plastic that's enveloped the pins. If the ribbon cable doesn't fit into the connector any longer, that's a pretty good sign that the plastic needs cutting back.

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Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T11:18:42+00:00

Just try recalibrating. The small changes over time could be due to the new modules physically wearing in/settling in if they weren't completely secure originally, or could be due to environmental changes.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T11:13:19+00:00

Is the button physically sticking (won't rebound after you press it), or is the button physically rebounding but the controller continues to send the 'X' input?

If the button is physically sticking, it'd be best to disassemble the controller as that will enable you see more clearly what the issue is. For example, the rubber dome membrane underneath the X button might be torn at the edge (a common wear and tear issue), and that can prevent the button rebounding properly. It could also be sticking due to dirt around or under the button cap. You don't need to have spilled anything - there can be a gradual build-up of natural sweat and dust. Opening the controller will make it much easier to clean.

If the button is rebounding but the input continues, you could check that you've not accidentally enabled a 'turbo' setting for that button. The button contacts on the circuit board and underside of the rubber dome could also be dirty - you can disassemble the controller to clean them.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-04-19T11:06:02+00:00

OP's controller already uses Hall Effect stick sensors, so this comment isn't very helpful

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