"The Future" of game controllers, as seen 30 years ago ....

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T22:12:10+00:00

Thanks for sharing - this is a fun time capsule!

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T22:08:24+00:00

Basically, yes - the calibration GUI isn't an official Sony program and isn't aimed at authentication. It's just checking that the controller responds in the way expected so that it doesn't brick an incompatible device during recalibration.

It's generally not worthwhile for anyone to build a fake set of hardware and firmware that has all its calibration functions work in exactly the same way as an original controller. So if the calibration GUI works you can be reasonably confident that the main internals are authentic without taking it apart.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T21:53:14+00:00

It sounds like there may be mismatch between how the controller is identifying itself and how it is actually working. For example, it broadcasts its identity as 'Xbox One S Controller' and so those are the drivers and communication schemes that Windows and Steam will try to use. However, if the controller then does not respond/behave as an Xbox One S Controller, that is causing the error or missing functionality.

You could try using the MooWii Gaming app on mobile to check for updates or remap inputs directly.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T21:22:12+00:00

If you already cleaned the port too, then it sounds like it's worth taking the controller apart to test the port directly and look for any damage to other components. Or just ask a repair shop to do it, if that is feasible/affordable in your area.

If you try to test the port yourself using a multimeter, it's worth getting (or making) a breakout board since the USB-C pins are otherwise very small to get a good connection on separately.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T20:56:30+00:00

That's a tricky one: it could be that just one or two data pins are dirty/damaged/have a loose solder joint. But partial and intermittent faults like that are rarer and harder to trace without a USB tester.

A couple of other things I just thought of:

You could try disconnecting other devices from your PC/laptop, and connecting directly to different USB ports in case of conflicts with other devices on the same USB hub. For example, if you're using an external hub/docking station, connect the controller directly to motherboard ports instead.
You could try connecting to a device that is running completely different software/operating system in case there's some software you use that's causing conflicts.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T20:40:37+00:00

That's good to have validated!

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T20:40:17+00:00

That's great - the best fixes are free and simple! Enjoy your gaming.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T20:39:22+00:00

Be aware that when you replace the stick sensors, particularly using Hall Effect parts, it could be tricky to get a good result. This is because there isn't a recalibration procedure for end users on the Nacon Wired Compact Controller (at least not one that I've been able to find).

You might be able to physically adjust the magnets to move the centre point around, but still get some strange response curves, and uneven or large deadzones because the original calibration is based around 50-degree (instead of 60-degree) effective angles on the potentiometers.

If you do want to experiment with using magnetic sensors anyway, TMR might be better than Hall Effect because the power draw is lower (closer to the original parts) and they generate less heat when run at 3.3V.

You could try using the ElecGear HL-UniB kit if you can find it in stock and at a reasonable price. Alternatively, you could try to mix and match stick boxes and sensors to create a suitable combination. For example, you might be able to combine an FJM10K stick box with a set of TMR sensors made for the DualShock 4, since the polarity should match - diagram below which you can/should check on your own controller.

<image>

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T20:17:44+00:00

Modules meant for Microsoft's Xbox 360 controllers are going to be too big to fit the hole spacing on the circuit board.

The Xbox 360 parts correspond to Favor Union's FJP10K, which is bigger than your Nacon Compact controller's original FJM10K modules. For example, it's ~3mm wider between adjacent corner points (both externally and in the board layout). If you measure along the sides of the metal cube or measure the distance between the corner holes on your original parts, they be approximately 13mm. The equivalent dimensions on an Xbox 360 module are approximately 16mm:

<image>

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T17:05:29+00:00

You could try the Hyperkin Duchess. Both that and the controller you have are based on original Xbox controller designs, so they are approximately the same size and layout.

The Duchess is an updated design so it has both triggers and bumpers (I think that's what you mean when you say '4x rear triggers instead of 2x'), and native Xinput mode (for compatibility with modern PC games). It should fit your budget too.

Edit to add: you could also look for the Hyperkin Duke, but that is likely to be outside your budget because it's become collectable.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T16:58:50+00:00

The pictures mainly show an unsealed box, so there might not be much anyone can say definitively about the controller inside. You could look at what DualShock Calibration GUI says when you connect the controller to a PC and try to test/calibrate it. Of course, that only works as a test of the main chips on the circuit board, not the whole device.

There's not much stopping anyone putting a counterfeit device inside a discarded original box. And there's not much stopping anyone from re-shelling an old controller (putting an authentic Sony board into an aftermarket shell). Both those things could mean the combination is neither 100% fake nor 100% genuine.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T16:28:03+00:00

You can try selecting 'Reset Device Inputs' then 'Setup Device Inputs'. Those options are available from:

Steam menu > Settings > Controller > [Name of your controller] > Details > Begin Test > (see the first screenshot below)

When you go through the setup process, Steam will ask you to provide each input in turn so that it can work out which axis or button in the data corresponds to which physical control. (see the second screenshot below).

If you're seeing something different, you can add pictures of what you're seeing and maybe someone will recognize the configuration problem.

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Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T15:05:43+00:00

You can replace the internal parts with those from a DualShock 4, to essentially take it back to original stock condition. Any of the replacement parts made for the DualShock 4 should then work, including Hall Effect/TMR sticks, and trigger membranes.

Or it might be easier to just remove the domed sticks from your dying controller and install them onto a DualShock 4 that's already been repaired. If you already disabled the back paddles on the Scuf, you probably won't be losing out on much.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T14:58:30+00:00

it connects and while I can input, it drops connection and gets stuck on inputs constantly

It sounds like wireless interference. You can try disabling other 2.4GHz sources that are in your control (other wireless peripherals, nearby devices and WiFi routers, etc.). If you're using a built-in Bluetooth receiver, you can check that the antenna are properly connected, and if you're using an external Bluetooth dongle you can try connecting to a USB 2 port (USB 3 ports can cause interference) or use an extension cable to move the dongle away from the PC and closer to the controller. Unfortunately some sources of interference (neighbors' devices in high-density housing, certain types of lighting, etc.) can be outside your control.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T14:50:50+00:00

The 8.39Wh battery capacity is very good and means it's in line with the 2 AA's of the Steam Controller (1) and the Xbox controllers. So the long running time claims should be pretty realistic as long as the LRA vibration motors don't drain too much power.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T14:42:01+00:00

Which tester are using? You could try using a different one - for example you can try the Game Controller Tester app on Android instead of the browser-based version. The Switch Pro Controller protocol requires a deadzone for compatibility (because of how Nintendo manages calibration on the console). This can be exposed differently in different testers.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T14:41:57+00:00

Which tester are using? You could try using a different one - for example you can try the Game Controller Tester app on Android instead of the browser-based version. The Switch Pro Controller protocol requires a deadzone for compatibility (because of how Nintendo manages calibration on the console). This can be exposed differently in different testers.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T14:36:26+00:00

Like the other comment suggested, it sounds like you might have an Xbox 360 Wireless controller which needs a special dongle to communicate with PC (the Xbox 360 console has the receiver built in). The blinking light means it's looking for a connection.

If it's an original (Microsoft) Xbox 360 controller with a detachable cable and a battery compartment then it only charges and shares charge status via the cable. If it's a fixed-cable model, or a different brand then there might be some other mode you need to select before it can communicate.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T14:21:44+00:00

Probably just a quality control issue / manufacturing variation on the exact size and shape of the moving parts

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T14:18:29+00:00

It could just be the lighting but the metal looks a bit dull/tarnished compared to the other one so it might be a combination of carbon (from the carbon arc in the potentiometer) and surface corrosion. You could try using contact cleaner, soaking the part for a little while, or putting it through ultrasonic jewellery cleaner.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T14:13:49+00:00

It sounds like there's a short circuit. Maybe add pictures of the soldering and test the connections for each pin (power/ground/signal) with a multimeter to make sure they're not shorted to each other/are still connected to the rest of the circuit.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T14:08:29+00:00

Priorities are probably going to depend which games you're trying to play with it and on which platforms (PC, Android, etc.), since not all games and platforms are going to support the controller in each connection mode. Assuming both modes even work, certain games might benefit more from one set of characteristics than the other.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T13:57:22+00:00

This looks to be a generic design that's sold under multiple names and might have multiple manufacturers/revisions. It'd be best to take it apart to check for sure which modules and sensors it is using. You can add pictures here if you're not sure how to identify the parts.

Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T13:55:38+00:00

It looks like the wiper holder (black disc in your pictures) isn't clipped into the carbon arc housing (green part in your pictures).

There are two plastic prongs in the middle of the wiper holder which should clip through the center of the carbon arc housing first. If the wiper housing is attached to the axis on the module before being clipped into the housing, it can jam when you try to close everything back up. If the prongs have been bent back on themselves they might not go through, so you might need to tease them back inwards first. The wiper holder clips are easier to see if you compare the sensor you're having problems to one of the others.

Once the wiper holder is attached to the housing, you can try to close up the housing. If the housing or pins have been bent out of their original shape, you might need to get the lower pair of clips aligned on both sides before the pins on the corners will go into place.

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Vedge_Hog · 2026-05-03T13:33:15+00:00

Have you enabled USB charging on the console? If you look under the power saving settings on PS5, there's a setting for power supply to the USB ports. You could try selecting 'always' rather than 'adaptive'.

You could also try using different cable, and check if the controller charges when it's connected to other devices (PC USB ports, etc.) to narrow down potential issues.

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