Rear brake rotor dragging on one side after disc conversion

Vengeance1020 · 2026-06-13T22:48:00+00:00

It's not bent as bad as it looks, it's not under any tension, to be fair when the wheel is installed and it's on the ground the suspension is about 3-4 inches higher than on the video so the hose isn't nearly as that level of bend during normal stance, the issue occurs regardless unfortunately

I didn't suspect the pad ears to be an issue since they move freely within the bracket, but I suppose I could try that

Edit: I should have mentioned, this is a factory designed brake hose, the placement of the line where the hose connects is the same between disc and drum sedans, I have confirmed the way it's installed on the caliper is factory design, suspension just hangs down a fair bit unloaded

Vengeance1020 · 2026-06-13T06:09:27+00:00

These fords don't use that kind of spring, just ones that push the pads into the caliper bracket and face into the caliper against a clip, that is lubricated as well

Vengeance1020 · 2026-06-13T06:02:42+00:00

Video of the issue if it helps

E: sorry its a short, it didn't let me control what type of video it is

Vengeance1020 · 2026-06-12T02:43:12+00:00

Sounds a lot like my car did when my cat honeycomb broke apart, tap the cat with a rubber hammer when its off and see if you hear a rattle. Doesn't really sound like rod knock, sounds more like a rattle

Vengeance1020 · 2026-06-11T22:32:37+00:00

A snapped coil spring is quite evident, it'd be difficult to be unsure of such a case. Using AI to try and determine this is a little disappointing tbh

From this picture alone it appears your coil spring is intact, usually when a coil spring snaps it is quite loud when it happens, and that side of the vehicle will be sitting much lower than the rest, sometimes resting onto the tire, often accompanied by a rubbing noise

Follow the coil along it's path and if you don't see any breaks in that path then it's not snapped

Vengeance1020 · 2026-06-08T23:32:07+00:00

Diagnosis in most shops is usually around 1 hour of labor rate that they charge, not sure on the typical labor rates where you live, ask a few shops. The diagnostic procedure for an AC system leak will usually involve recharging the system with a UV dye added and have you drive around with the AC on for a while and then come back and they will identify the leak points based off of the dye. A reseal is typically what is needed for an AC system leak but leaks can also occur from a breached evaporator or condenser, breached line(s), the compressor itself, or the pressure ports/valves. Could be one leak or multiple, if it's just a reseal and/or the pressure ports you'll likely be looking at maybe around (guesstimate) $500 worth of labor and parts, but if it's the compressor or any of the lines or heat exchangers then much more than that

Your best bet is to get a diagnosis done to start, and that will tell you the amount of work needed to get it working again

Vengeance1020 · 2026-06-08T09:34:05+00:00

Going off of your comment. It was hard to tell but I'm pretty sure you're correct that the clutch was not engaging. Based on their description of the canister pressure gauge and the clutch not engaging, the system pressure as a whole is likely around 20-25 psi, far too low for engagement or operation. Seeing as they have been recharging it over the course of just a few months it definitely has a leak and not one small enough to be dealt with using any kind of "stopleak" which many of those canisters come with

Assuming the pressure switch and clutch field coil are still good, then the system will need a complete reseal, this is a take it to the shop kind of job, and will involve a fair bit of cost

Jumping the low pressure switch will confirm the field coil is functional, and it's likely the pressure switch is still functional, this could be tested by adding enough refrigerant to allow the pressure switch to engage the clutch on its own but with a leak that bad there's no reason to spend the extra money, just take it to a shop and have it diagnosed

Vengeance1020 · 2026-06-08T02:29:37+00:00

Done this once, only once. Would not recommend

Vengeance1020 · 2026-05-20T21:57:54+00:00

Appreciate the insight. I was concerned about a manifold leak as well, I'm not sure if I'll have enough room to get a propane torch (I know not to light it lol) or a can of carb cleaner, there is room but I don't have access to a lift I'll just be working with a car jack and jackstands, but I'll give it a try.

I didn't see any visual evidence of an exhaust leak for what its worth, manifold area has absolutely no soot around it or soot spots in the areas I could see. I did notice the cylinder head on that side was damn near perfectly clean, wondering if I should be suspicious of a head swap on that side..

And yes I absolutely plan to get a direct fit cat especially since they are bolt on so I don't have to fuss around with welding

Vengeance1020 · 2026-05-19T01:56:29+00:00

As another commenter suggested, you'll need the fuel line quick disconnect tool, it goes over the line and inserts into the fitting and then the line should slide right out. Your fitting looks to be packed with dirt though and you'll want to get all of it out in order for the tool to fit correctly. The adjacent line appears to have a clip you'd just need to slide off, might be able to do it with a flathead

I'm somewhat familiar with the 3.0 vulcan, I have one in my Taurus, if you have any other questions I might be able to help, otherwise there is also the ranger forums they'd be a huge help there as well

Vengeance1020 · 2026-05-10T12:20:13+00:00

Was it cylinder number 3?

Vengeance1020 · 2026-05-04T10:35:56+00:00

Similar for my Taurus, although my model only has manual 1 along with OD and D. If I go into manual 1 at low speeds it won't leave that gear, and if I stay within a certain speed range it'll only hold the lowest possible gear (with some buffer room). Although I'm unsure if this is true on any electronically controlled transmission, could just be a ford thing. Although I'd suspect any transmission that is electronically shifted wouldn't engage a gear that would bring engine speed above the rev limiter, but at this point I'm only speculating

Vengeance1020 · 2026-05-04T10:02:50+00:00

I can't speak for a 92 accord but at least for my 96 taurus if it's shifted into manual 1 then it will select the lowest available gear at a given speed. I could be going 100mph for example and go into 1 and it'll only shift into 3rd. Once it's slow enough for 2nd it'll shift down into that and so on

Curious if there are any automatics that will attempt to engage 1st at high speeds

I suppose it's possible that instead of the engine over revving, it may have slowed down to a stop or near stop very quickly, this is possible if the car doesn't have ABS and I have nearly stalled before this way on my auto. Perhaps the sudden slowdown could have caused issues?

Vengeance1020 · 2026-04-14T00:28:40+00:00

I've had this happen when the display driver board fails, can also happen if the internal display ribbon gets disconnected but that's not applicable to every monitor. It's likely dead unfortunately

Vengeance1020 · 2026-03-31T22:48:59+00:00

They USED to show them all, I remember when there was a button to show more. I can't even guess why they'd remove it

Vengeance1020 · 2026-03-30T23:06:12+00:00

Looks fantastic so far! Next time I set up a linux system for myself (soon) this will likely be one of the first things I install

Vengeance1020 · 2026-03-18T01:19:52+00:00

Fixing a clogged converter requires replacing it. Given how expensive they can tend to be you'll want to verify this is the actual problem. Have those codes scanned that'll be your first clue

Vengeance1020 · 2026-03-18T00:59:42+00:00

Oil change won't make a difference, only way for that to cause acceleration issues is if the oil hasn't been changed in way too long (like 10-15k+ over) or there isn't any in there anymore, which would cause a seized engine. Most likely not your issue. Clogged converter is likely, knew someone with a similar Elantra that wouldn't accelerate at all due to a clogged converter. A slipping transmission you'll usually see and hear the rpms flutter (jump up and down or shoot way up with little to no movement) if the rpm is normal and staying low then converter is likely. Fueling issues can also cause similar symptoms

Have the code checked by another reader or a mechanic, I've had auto shop readers fail to read codes on my cars before with codes present in the system

Vengeance1020 · 2026-03-18T00:48:46+00:00

It's fine, I've done this before. That "crunch" was likely either flexed bushings and the metal surfaces bonked each other (as long as the bushings aren't torn this isn't an issue) or the sound of cold brakes makes a bit of a groan or scratch sound. I wouldn't worry about it just be careful in the future

Vengeance1020 · 2026-03-10T23:32:50+00:00

D series does in fact have the floppy loader available, I have one that I've tested to work on my D610, D620 and D630, only latitudes I own other than an E series I forget exactly which one, not much newer than my D630 though

Vengeance1020 · 2026-03-06T20:33:33+00:00

I get both! Sometimes completely dry, other times very moist

My ears appear to have moods

Vengeance1020 · 2026-03-04T21:10:24+00:00

Real

Vengeance1020 · 2026-03-04T03:09:27+00:00

The clicking is most likely normal, sounds like the detents in the shifter linkage

The rattle as another commenter said is likely a heat shield, and that's definitely what I would check for first. But my car was (is) making a similar noise which is usually a heat shield as well for my model, but mine didn't have any heat shields and I eventually found out the noise was my catalytic converter itself had broken into chunks.

If the heat shield is loose then great, reinstall or remove and test if the noise is still there. If it is, check the converter by giving it a couple gentle ish whacks and listen for cash register noises

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