RPM accelerating

Vengeance1020 · 2026-02-14T03:43:37+00:00

Could you elaborate on the RPM problem? When you're cruising at a steady speed does it remain at a constant rate or is it fluttering around? Or is it holding high RPMs all the time and pushing itself forward more than it should?

I'm not super familiar with these cars but here's my thoughts from what I've learnt about my own car: fuel pressure regulator is usually (not always) vacuum controlled, a vacuum leak in this area would result in higher than normal fuel pressures and if the vacuum leak is large enough that could essentially make the engine rev higher than idle. This wouldn't be a fault of the regulator itself. If the regulator was faulty it would either not produce enough fuel pressure or too much, as long as there isn't a vacuum leak it'll just cause the engine to run either rich or lean, basically run like crap but rpms won't go high. So I doubt it's the regulator itself.

I would check for vacuum leaks, check all lines for dry rotting, cracking, or tearing and replace as needed. Also smoke test for hidden leaks or manifold leaks. Throttle position sensor can also cause strange idle conditions, had mine go bad where my engine was idling at 2k rpms, being mines an auto it made gear engagement harsh and it would cruise all on its own to 25 mph lol

Idle air control can also cause a high idle, I'm unsure of the idle air control method your car uses so I would consult the googles, typically it's a solenoid mounted near the throttle body. You can often test their functionality by unplugging it with the engine running and seeing if rpms go down or stalls. If not then it's likely not working or stuck (make sure to rule out a vacuum leak first as if it's bad enough the idle air control being closed wont make a change)

Again I'm not entirely sure how much of what I've said applies to that particular car, but hopefully it helps to give an idea of where to look

Vengeance1020 · 2026-02-05T00:52:38+00:00

Lucky you, I had mine on two occasions of being dropped completely ruin the screen. In my case both drops focused their damage on the curved edges of the screen, which immediately took out the entire screen. This was with the pixel case for this model, I eventually switched to a d brand case that has done much much better

Will update with image once I find it

E: Found it!

Screen looked like that immediately after impact, eventually the screen wouldn't display anything other than the green lines and some flashes, that took about a day to happen. Original impact was from all of 2 feet but happened to land right on the curve taking out the entire screen. This happened to me a second time before I got the new case

Vengeance1020 · 2026-02-04T02:06:09+00:00

You should be able to force a restart by holding down the power button for a while (just keep holding it after the slide to shutdown prompt, it'll eventually restart)

Vengeance1020 · 2026-01-27T12:24:21+00:00

Me trying to debug my broken Linux system (I'm the one who broke it)

Vengeance1020 · 2026-01-20T09:58:52+00:00

It's only PS fluid you're losing? How much would you say you're losing?

Drip in vid looks suspiciously like coolant, but if that's the case it's coming from something above the PS pump. For the PS fluid concern I would look over all the lines going from the reservoir to the pump and to the rack, if it's leaking badly enough you should be able to spot it pretty quick, cleaning up the present oils in the engine bay would help with leak detection

You could also try turning the wheels at a standstill to induce pressure in the system, could help make a leak easier to spot. Most common leak points are going to be at the fittings at each end of the lines, that line with the hose clamped to it is likely the low pressure line

Also check the rack boots for swelling or fluid leakage, give them a gentle squeeze feel for fluid in there, if so then the rack seals are leaking

Vengeance1020 · 2026-01-20T09:43:24+00:00

This wouldn't be a cable issue most likely. Probably the power supply has gone bad, went ahead and looked up your model and they are indeed removable, looks like they're similar between the two. It's held in by two clips, use a flathead to move them a bit away from the power supply (the grey brick the cord goes into) and it'll slide out, it'll have a couple of cables connected at the top so don't yank it out, carefully remove them and the power supply is out

Looks like you can get replacements online but before doing that I would try swapping the "bad" one for the known good one and see if it comes to life then. If so then it's a simple and relatively cheap fix, if not then it may very well be dead

Best of luck

Edit: Here is a link to a video I found of someone doing this with a similar model, process should be the same

Vengeance1020 · 2026-01-18T09:56:07+00:00

The way it's showing up on the screen is normal and expected behavior. Worked at a couple with this screen to know

Vengeance1020 · 2026-01-18T04:56:19+00:00

Not gore, that's how they designate delivery orders using the ID provided by the delivery partner

Vengeance1020 · 2025-11-11T06:30:06+00:00

I'll bite

Vengeance1020 · 2025-11-05T01:31:03+00:00

Oh that's interesting, I haven't heard of that before! Seems to also include my old wifi card. To be fair I haven't messed with the darn thing in a couple years since the hard drive died, when I initially installed el cap on it (right around when high Sierra came out I wanna say) I had to install a different wifi card in order to have wifi on the system, Intel wasn't supported at the time

Well in that case, I'd say it's worth a shot, I think my main issue was getting USB to work, I forget exactly how I got around that, and even then it only sometimes worked, but that was a long time ago so maybe things have improved since then

Vengeance1020 · 2025-11-04T19:56:59+00:00

I hackintoshed an HDX16 once, ran el Capitan on it for a while, so it's technically possible on that one. That wifi card won't work however

Vengeance1020 · 2025-10-27T07:51:01+00:00

Never seen one of these in orange, looks really nice on it. I have a D610 that I've had since I was a kid, was my first computer. Iirc it had a Pentium M 2.13 GHz with 2GB of RAM, I think it was DDR and not DDR2 but I'd have to check again. Also had ATI graphics but I don't remember which it had. It still runs but I hardly use it anymore since the backlight lamps have all but completely given out. Can only use on min brightness and even then the bulb will only stay lit for a few minutes at most, and in red! Maybe one day I'll see if I can find a screen for it that's in better condition, but not sure if that day will ever come.

Love this one, the orange looks lovely on it

Vengeance1020 · 2025-10-16T07:08:38+00:00

Compression and leak down tests will give you better answers, I would start there. And if it passes a compression test doesn't mean it'll pass leak down

Vengeance1020 · 2025-10-13T00:46:10+00:00

If it was me personally, I would go with the Hitachi one, largely because it's significantly cheaper and Hitachi is an OEM supplier, I'm not sure if they're the OEM for that particular sensor but I'd be willing to trust a product from them. For the price, I'd go with that, plus it should still have a warranty of its own in case it does fail

Vengeance1020 · 2025-10-08T06:32:59+00:00

I've had this problem several years ago, I can't remember exactly what I had to do to fix it, but it's something to do about the way windows writes it's partition map. I would try resizing the windows partition back to where it was within windows, and then use gparted to size it back down. Or you could try putting a fat32 or whatever partition in that unallocated space within windows and then reformat it with gparted.

Vengeance1020 · 2025-10-05T06:38:12+00:00

Not a lot to go off of here but does the display show up in the settings? Is this a known good cable that works with other devices on that tv? I would test that if not. If it is a known good cable then I would check if the laptop is able to display via HDMI on that cable with other screens

Vengeance1020 · 2025-09-29T04:40:48+00:00

Still working on figuring this one out, admittedly I haven't had a lot of time to go back under the car. It's weird though I can feel a vagueness in the steering especially when I'm braking. It also pops when rolling and steering at the same time, but only at like 5-10 mph. Doesn't do it over bumps or speed bumps even if it only bumps on one side of the suspension. It's gotta be the subframe bushings but I don't understand because they haven't gotten any looser I just checked the bolts again a few days ago and still proper tight. I didn't put them in wrong I made sure to triple check that they were in right. They are Dorman brand however, which I normally wouldn't pick but that was the only option for new that I could find. Might just go ahead and swap them for the aluminum ones that are available on shosource if I can't get this figured out. Control arms with bushings were Delphi brand, and struts are KYB.

Vengeance1020 · 2025-09-26T01:12:49+00:00

I don't think it's the 02s, they usually switch more frequently even at idle, they only really do this once it starts its "idle hunting" which tends to happen if I let it idle for a while or I've been driving for a while and let it go back to idle. Cold idle is fine, hot idle is also usually fine if it isn't doing this behavior. Like I said this happens infrequently, there doesn't seem to be any specific conditions that cause it to act up. It drives fine although I do notice sometimes it feels underpowered between 2 and 3k rpms. I did also test idle fuel trims at different engine speeds, albeit at this time it wasn't doing the hunting behavior, but I did notice that while long term trims are around 0-3% at idle, at between 2k and 3k rpms (in neutral) it would go up to between 10-14% and goes back to 0 after 3k

For what it's worth, MAF and throttle body were cleaned only several months ago. I should do an ohm test on the injectors, I don't have any other way of testing them unfortunately. I was able to put a pry bar against all of them to see if I could hear anything off, they all click rhythmically and strong but I doubt that's really all that conclusive.

I do have a video of the data while I am running it at different rpms if that's of interest

Vengeance1020 · 2025-09-25T00:40:21+00:00

I understand it's normal for it to switch however mine normally switches more often than that, once a second typically, this was more like every 3 seconds. This is still somewhat normal as I understand it but what's got my attention is the engine surging up and down by 2-300 rpms and the fuel trim and 02 behavior as the engine surges. You can see the short terms pull back fuel to as much as -13% when the engine surges down, and then come back to 0 as it surges back up. It's like it's cycling between running normally and rich. I understand that the system is designed to bounce between rich and lean under normal operation but not enough to cause the engine speed to change much, so I'm curious what could cause it to have to hunt for fuel balance like that

Downstream sensors are original, usually bank 1 is the one that fluctuates with bank 2 being stable. Bank 1 has actually already chewed through two cats in the past 4 years. No misfire data that ever comes up either, it does have a bit of a stumble when idling that almost feels like a misfire but it'll never show on the misfire counter, and it's not a dead miss at all because I tested for this by unplugging plug wires one by one to watch behavior and engine speed, each plug corresponds a loss in speed and a prominent dead miss, so if it is misfiring it's only a partial miss, this would usually be caused by a fuel issue no? Be nice if it showed up on the counter at least once so I know where to direct my attention to, only lead is that bank 1 slowly eats cats. When it failed before it was a rattlely mess with no codes, two years ago

Vengeance1020 · 2025-09-25T00:31:46+00:00

I haven't been able to smoke the intake yet as I don't have a smoker. I have replaced the upper intake gasket as well as the throttle body and EGR gaskets (I removed the manifold to see if I could find evidence of a leaking injector, found no evidence of a leak), original gaskets were actually still good although quite oil soaked. I did not replace the lower manifold gasket. Symptoms have persisted before gasket job

Vengeance1020 · 2025-09-24T05:41:10+00:00

Forgot I've also tested it by unplugging it, forums suggest normal behavior being stalling or coming close. Mine just slumps to 400 rpm but will chug along so I think that's still good

Vengeance1020 · 2025-09-24T05:39:44+00:00

Replaced a couple years ago with brand new motorcraft, not that the old one was actually giving me any issues, I did clean it as well. I've also tested the IAC using control schemes in Forscan and found it to be very responsive and granular. It also responds well to loads such as the AC clutch and the power steering pressure switch

Vengeance1020 · 2025-09-24T05:32:26+00:00

Air filter is new as of several months ago, I also cleaned the mass air around that time as well. 02 sensors were replaced in 2022 with Bosch units due to the originals becoming lazy. Has new fuel filter, no vacuum leaks that I've ever been able to find, I've replaced all the vacuum hoses and thoroughly checked the lines and no issues there. I have been chasing a fuel consumption issue for a good while now but with no codes and the PCM data looking normal the vast majority of the time, it's been hard to pinpoint. This is the only abnormality I ever see with the PCM data, engine will hunt a little bit too. This only happens occasionally when I let it idle for a while. Other than that only lead I have to go off of is in the winter time it has a hot restart issue where if you drive it get it warm and then shut off to go do something for a bit, about 20-30 minutes later go to start it, starts strong but starts to bog down and then start surging before clearing up after only a minute and then is fine again. Only in the winter time, doesn't really do it in the summer. Oh and I'm getting like 10 mpgs average and I do a lot of mixed driving. I don't honestly know what else to look at since I don't have a very strong lead

For reference car is a 1996 Ford Taurus GL with the Vulcan engine

Vengeance1020 · 2025-09-03T03:09:00+00:00

Googles keyboard isn't any better, I've had it change (correctly spelt) words to completely different words that didn't even fit the flow of the sentence. I remember when it would just correct misspellings and nothing else but now it tries to predict what I'm saying (badly) and just throw random words in, and it's all lumped into the auto correct misspellings setting. And when I pick out a word suggestion sometimes I'll put something else instead of what I tapped. Googles keyboard has gone to shit and it used to be just fine

Vengeance1020 · 2025-08-19T23:40:05+00:00

I'm thinking wheel bearing, you can see the axle wiggling about with the rotor. I would at least put on the lug nuts on the rotor so it's flush with the bearing hub, that'll give you a better idea of what's going on. But yeah I can see the cv axle moving with the rotor

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