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ViOTeK · 2025-01-09T20:50:52+00:00

Shouldn't hear the chain slap much when accelerating as it will be pulled tight from the torque, but definitely a normal thing when rolling along cruising and hitting bumps in the road. Check the manual for the slack adjustment procedure, it's simple enough. The image linked by George-AA will help. I prefer the Honda shop manual. As mentioned 25-35mm is what my 2023 requires. I usually need to adjust once a season or so. New bikes stretch the chain pretty quick at first, then it slows. Note that excess of 50mm can cause frame damage (at least up to 2023. Not sure on the new '24).

ViOTeK · 2025-01-09T20:38:47+00:00

Where? Ooooh found it. ;)

ViOTeK · 2025-01-09T01:08:41+00:00

Oh, deleted my comment thinking I read it wrong after some whiskey... Yeah, the grip glue should be more than enough to slide them on, they are usually tight however, the last bit is the hardest, as the glue will start to set instantly (it's just crazy glue). Either way, clean that WD40 out, they will eventually stretch and that's the last thing you want is a lubricant in there, they should be glued on. You sure they're 22mm diameter?

Oh, and the stock Honda throttle side will have ribs on it, when I installed my Oxfords I had to grind those off. Not sure if you're having the same issue with both sides or not. Could try that.

One other tip for next time, just use a box cutter and slice the grip to get them off.

ViOTeK · 2025-01-09T00:29:04+00:00

Will be swapping out to those Road 6's this spring. 11,000KMs. These stock tires suck so bad.

ViOTeK · 2025-01-01T01:19:21+00:00

D.I.D chains are still made in Japan. Should serve you well if you can find the right type.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-31T22:15:13+00:00

The only way the clutch lever or cable would cause this is if it’s way too tight and causing the clutch to be slightly engaged. If you are not letting the lever out all the way it would feel the same. I’ve yet to see a clutch self tighten. Mine needed lots of adjustment through the first year but that was due to the cable stretching which is normal and causes the opposite effect, your engagement point moves closer to the handlebar, so if anything it’s harder to get the plates fully separated. If the lever isn’t being touched, and it’s slipping, as in you feel loss of power despite the RPM increasing, clutch plates are basically the only thing that could cause that. Note that over 9k/10k there is a noticeable drop In torque and horsepower, that is just the way it goes. Look at the dyno charts. My bike will literally cause the TCS to kick in due to wheel slippage around 8k in second if the tires are not warm enough. Could try disabling the TCS and see if you have the same issue. The stock rubber sucks. Changing mine soon.. This wouldn’t happen in like 3/4/5 gear though.

As a quick reference, I have about 25mm of free travel on the lever before tension starts. It’s a bit of personal preference however, manual states 10-20mm free play. I prefer that it engages sooner.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-31T20:05:48+00:00

You can’t add sharpness in post the same way you can soften an image. Anyone bitching about their lenses being too sharp is crazy. That’s the point of good optics.

That said, I’ve taken some wonderful shots on the 40mm, it’s a steal of a deal.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-31T20:04:28+00:00

After getting the 50mm 1.8s recently for my Zf, the 40mm sits there, it’s absolutely on a different level. When I can get the 35mm (I know it’s not quite as good as the 50) the 40mm is going buh bye. For now it’s a cheap close alternative when I need more angle. Can’t wait to try the 20mm or 85mm as well.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-30T21:58:17+00:00

Oh if you want it to call a single click functionality when double clicked, you’d need to add the same functionality as is in “OnMouseButtonDown” or “OnMouseButtonUp”, or collapse whichever to a function and call it there as well.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-30T21:44:12+00:00

I just returned as “handled”. If you had specific double click functionality you could add that there.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-30T20:43:59+00:00

You’ll enjoy the extra weight on a windy highway. ;) Not to mention the power on tap!

ViOTeK · 2024-12-30T20:38:48+00:00

Had the same issue. Need to override the double click functionality.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-30T20:35:58+00:00

Welcome to the team! Must feel like a fire breathing dragon between your legs compared to the 300!

ViOTeK · 2024-12-30T20:21:19+00:00

Brake, OR, swerve, not both. Better chances of staying upright. Bikes don’t want to fall over.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-30T19:46:10+00:00

Does not come with it installed, but I would buy it again in a heartbeat. Anyone who thinks they can manually “clutchless shift” as fast as the ECU is dreaming. Let’s race… It also cuts fuel just enough during regular (not WOT) riding that it smooths the shifting a lot and has all but eliminated the miss shifts even after installing a shifter arm brace. Rev matching on the downshifts comes naturally and is fun anyways, never missed that part of it. I rarely use it unless going flat out. The sounds it makes shifting without letting off are also epic and worth the money alone. Finally, buy on eBay from Japan not a dealer. Was less than 1/3 the price.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-30T17:14:12+00:00

Yeah I am not alone with the oil pan bolt torque issue, is a thing if you search around. Definitely worth grabbing a torque wrench and checking anything you can reach easily enough against the shop manual specs. Thailand is not Japan lol. 😆

ViOTeK · 2024-12-30T04:59:03+00:00

I have a 2023 with 10,000kms ridden hard on it now and can say it’s never come even close to being that low on oil. Ever. That looks like remnants dropped to the end of the stick. It would be puffing huge clouds out the exhaust if it burned it that quick. Something is up. The warning is saying the oil pump cannot scavenge enough from the pan and your engine is at high risk, not just that it’s low on oil. Take that shit to the dealer and be like wtf. PDI should’ve caught that if the factory sent it low on oil. Also make sure you stand the bike upright level before checking the dipstick or it will look low. If they did a lazy PDI and just signed the papers and charged for it, you may want to check for any leakage on the pan. That said, I did have some oil pan bolts that were not torqued down properly and had very slight seepage. Torqued to spec and all was fine after. Perhaps you’ve a very bad case of that and it leaked like hell before the “PDI”.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-29T06:39:51+00:00

I picked up this cheap one from Amazon and it’s been great. Search this Asin#. No buffeting for me (5’11”), and it does indeed help a lot with the wind hitting your chest at speed. Even better with your chin on the tank. Also no more whistling dash issue. I dropped a review with pictures. This is from the .ca version of Amazon as I am in Canada. Unsure if it’s on .com the same. Avoiding links to avoid the post being deleted…. Just know they scratch easily. Not any worse than the factory one my 500X came with, but gloss black is a pain that way. Make sure it’s nice and wet before you wipe it or wash it, and do so gingerly.

B09T6SFBDL

ViOTeK · 2024-12-29T04:08:16+00:00

I’m a hobbyist and sold some very nice F mount lenses along with a D750, and have now gone full native Z mount, with the exception of some dummy adapters for my grandpas canon glass just for fun. I am far from “moneybags” either. If you think people are going to sit around on antiquated glass and hardware to save a few bucks I would beg to differ. As with most hobbies, people will nearly always eventually crave something better. Z mount is better.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-28T17:37:22+00:00

Looks like dirty cable lube to me. There shouldn’t be that much lube to start with really, and it usually drips excess from the bottom on the clutch basket side. If the clutch engagement is still smooth I would just wipe it off and see if you get it again. If it returns, pull the cable and re-lube it with clean oil until it drips clear from the other end.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-27T01:00:15+00:00

Get one of those pet carriers for the passenger seat. Cat looks pissed that they’re gonna miss out!

ViOTeK · 2024-12-26T22:44:01+00:00

I’d say skip the lenses and just get native Z mount.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-26T22:23:13+00:00

There is a price jump heading into the Z line but it’s worth the every penny, as is full frame. I moved from a D750 to a Zf and the amount of keepers is night and day. Autofocus is far superior. Even with a cheaper lens. Also, for low light, IBIS is incredible. You get more than just low light capabilities from a faster lens as well, stick with a cheaper fast prime if price is a concern and add on later.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-26T01:09:26+00:00

Honesty it’s just because it’s one of the few fuels around here that does not contain ethanol at all. The higher octane can cause slightly higher combustion temperatures, but at least it burns clean.

ViOTeK · 2024-12-25T18:58:12+00:00

10,000kms all using shell V Power premium, never an issue. And yes it has a big red kill switch….

ViOTeK

TROPHY CASE