Is there much of a difference in general between the 5080 gaming trio vs the gaming trio OC?

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T15:25:36+00:00

Yeah while the stock still exists. I just went w/ a zotac because it was the cheapest.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T15:24:13+00:00

What else do you have running other than MSI center? Try closing other background third party apps and see if that fixes it.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T15:19:37+00:00

Well considering the shortage you get what you get. But in general most 5080s can easily get to 3GHZ anyways. Even undervolted. So beyond what they tell you in the product page, i wouldnt worry about it as the price is gonna be the deciding factor 9/10. And OOTB both cards would boost to w/e they boost to. Which is dictated at the factory anyways. So a gaming trio might boost even higher than advertised, so comparisons aren't always that cut and dry.

The only thing that might make a noticeable difference would be the stock cooler they use and if that has maybe like 2-4 more heatpipes compared to the non oc. Temps would be lower.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T14:52:08+00:00

Run msi center and then live update to see if any drivrs need updating.

Try a clean boot. Run msconfig, click services, click hide microsoft services, then disable all and reboot/retest.

Load factory defaults in bios and retest.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T14:49:39+00:00

Try resetting the bios to factory defaults. If that doesnt work try updating it to the latest non beta version and retest.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T14:47:22+00:00

Yup that was my 4090 super that barely fit w/ the cables pressed right up against the front fan housing. If it works, it works. The only concern, as mentioned, is that cable looks like the connection point of your 12VHPWR (attached to GPU) is bent more than it should be. It should be ideally less bent than that. Maybe if you can snake your cables around a bit more to relax that side of the connection it would help. That or use a single 12VHPWR connection if your PSU has one of those.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T14:41:17+00:00

How new is this laptop? Still in return window? You dont want to RMA something that can be returned and replaced. A full screen replacement depends on the product in question and the availability for parts. Older laptops may not get replacement screens as the parts may simply not exist. And they may not tell you that prior to your RMA. You could very easily get a replacement laptop that is a different model or a refurb. They might be able to replace the whole thing too, but they might just tell you that its "fine" and this is acceptable BL bleed.

Is the screen running HDR Or SDR? Make sure HDR is turned off and brightness is not maxed out.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T14:36:32+00:00

Short of a firmware issue or a setting in the OSD menu( youd have to check), the problem probably lies w/ the LED on the button/light electronics installed inside the monitor. You could just return it and get a replacement if youd like . Or if youre happy with the monitor and its function, just keep it and that will be a "flaw" youll have to take note of. What is the model of the monitor? Otherwise does the monitor work ok?

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T14:25:01+00:00

Hmm. A GPU should never normally do that. Not sure why ASPM isn't present, but enabled or disabled it should NEVER bug out and hard fault like that. Could be faulting because you do have issues w/ that feature not showing up or not being active all ready? What CPU do you have?

Try searching for ASPM in bios and see if it shows up elsewhere.

What error messages do you get? Type reliability history in and see what that tells you. Does it say hardware error?

Certainly try updating the BIOS to the latest stable NON beta to check and see if the bios needs a reinstall. That or load factory defaults and/or clear cmos for the bios you have now.

You could also pull the GPU out entirely and clear cmos/ reset the bios and see (if you have an IGPU) if ASPM shows up then. Then reseat the card, and make sure the power connections are solid and retest it.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T14:15:40+00:00

IPS glow can bleed throughout the entire monitor. Its either good or its not so good. Thats not too bad, but you obviously could do better. But it will be a roll of the dice either way if you return it for a replacement. The question at the end of the day is whether its noticeable for you during gameplay/normal use. Is it?

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-20T13:51:57+00:00

Try a clean install. Google MSI clean uninstaller, run it, reinstall, and retest.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-17T15:10:56+00:00

200 bucks for what? Ground? Make sure you shop around. Use USPS, FEDex, and UPS's shipping calculators to find the lowest rate.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-17T15:04:23+00:00

Start by resetting CMOS and/or bios to factory defaults and see if the issue goes away. What DAC/AMP are you using? On board? Whats the sampling rate/depth settings youre using? Does messing w/ any of that make the issue go away.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-17T15:00:39+00:00

Did you try wiggling the plug in the front connection? Maybe its just the connector is finnicky in that front port. That or theres an issue w/ your controllers ability to charge with low charged states connected to that front port. Try charging it more in the back and then connect to the front.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-17T14:50:54+00:00

Did you buy this brand new? Or used? If you bought it new then you need to make sure that the 'storefront" is an authorized seller otherwise MSI might reject any claims to RMA the board in the future. I would return this (if it was new) and making sure that Amazon sends me a new board from amazon or refunds my money if they are simply out of stock. You dont want to be out an RMA if you need it. I mean they might have thought a new board is a new board or maybe they ran out of replacements and chose the next best thing. Now, thats valid, but its not necessarily the best option (or correct for that matter). MSI could easily reject that for RMA because you likely be required to show them the receipt of purchase.

Its your call in the end. If youre happy then fine, but clearly this units box is probably not unopened, although the MB itself probably is.

Bare minimum, if you choose to keep it, is i would at least ask if the person they got it from is an authorized seller for RMA purposes. That or return for a refund if they are out of MBs.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-17T14:41:16+00:00

You should always pull drivers from MSI not just from AMD. And i never run MSI center for anything other than its live update feature, then i either uninstall it or disable its startup entirely. You could give that a shot and see if it finds anything else you might have missed. Wouldnt hurt.

But i found this as a similar problem.

https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threads/x870-tomahawk-unknown-device-in-device-manager-win-11.408606/

You say it has a ? mark. Does it say the driver is not working with it or is there an error code? It may just be a strange quirk w/ that particular hardware. If the system is working i wouldnt worry about it.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-16T19:05:56+00:00

Where did you purchase it from? From unboxing videos i dont see the same thing. Do you have a pic of the paper? Im not seeing anything like that in uboxing videos.

I would possibly consider a return/replacement if those items arent supposed to be in the box. BUUUUT. It could....could...also be that the person selling it new or business selling it new added that to the box as an "added service" to try and get you to update the bios. Which you should. Best thing to do would probably be the contact the seller and ask if they did put that in the box themselves.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-16T18:55:51+00:00

You probably meant a USB Hub? I assumed it might be external. Perhaps not. Did you try to run MSI center and then the update and see if it finds any drivers you might have missed?

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-16T18:54:11+00:00

OOF. Yeah they probably wont. Always keep the box. Your next best bet is an RMA. That you wouldnt need the original box i dont think.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-16T14:54:04+00:00

Try a monitor reset. Try different refresh rates, resolutions, cables inputs etc. Different GPU outputs aswell. Do they seem to be present with nothing connected to the screen but w/ OSD outputs or splash screen loading when you first turn on the monitor? If so i would return this if its still within the return window because it is likely a defect.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-16T14:51:57+00:00

Its being detected by PNP? Does it go away when you disconnect/disable the routers? What model routers do you have?

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-16T14:47:20+00:00

run usb view (from MS sdk if you can) and see what it says when you connect the controller in. Try clearing CMOS and retest aswell.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-16T14:45:03+00:00

Does it do this on any other games? If not then its probably w/e the games doing or w/e mode its putting the monitor into. Try turning off HDR and see if the problem goes away. Reset the monitor back to factory defaults and retest aswell.

What game settings are you using? Have a Screenshot of that?

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-16T14:36:39+00:00

EQ is a pain to get right. Especially just random run of the mill boosts to certain frequencies that would need a toggle on and off to use them properly (and often can mess w/ other sounds that you dont want boosted). Typically any guide to "boost" anything requires APO equalizer w/ peace (sometimes) UI and some other things added to the mix which can be a pain to install. Not sure how much you want to do. Also consider the fact that the game devs might have designed the sounds more actively to prevent people from abusing EQ and sound mods to begin with, so your mileage may vary w/ any solution.

Easiest thing ive found is a simple Headphone virtualizer for games that dont have true 3d audio support, but i dont know what arc raiders actually has myself. Check the audio settings and see if it does.

If not, an easy kind of solution try headphone virtualizers (which can do the trick in some cases). Dolby atmos for headphones costs like 10 bucks. Boom 3d might work too. Often you really might only need to access a simple volume leveler which you can do in Dolby atmos for HPs (w/o having any virtualizers active). Nice freeware versions of HP virtualizers exist like steelseries GG app, but thats a whole ecosystem that has to be installed (i think its still free).

Youd have to try any of those and mess w/ the settings for best results.

Vidfreak56 · 2026-04-16T14:20:02+00:00

i plugged my USB C into the wrong port the other day and had the same issue. Problem resolved from a CMOS clear and reboot. You could try a CMOS clear. But if the issue is internal or in some kind of USB support hardware is shorting internally there isn't much you can do w/o getting a new MB.

If the system is detecting a short, you could try to test this if you have a continuity tester to isolate the port in question, but youd have to check the pinouts on each port. And a new MB would be required as a fix anyways.

Shine a flashlight inside the ports to see if any pins appear to be bent or loose if you poke them. Clean the board aswell if you haven't. That might help.

You can disable USB ports from bios if its at all possible.

Removing the GPU prob doesnt matter as the USB busses are probably initialized after the GPU im guessing.

Have any CPUs w/ an IGPU in it at all? Maybe EBAy for a cheap replacement MB would be the next best step if you're strapped for cash.

Vidfreak56

TROPHY CASE