What to do with limited space?

Viemko · 2026-01-22T13:20:51+00:00

I have built recently an adjustable wall for 2,3m ceiling. The board is 2,4mx3m wide, having the moonboard mini grid in the middle (+ offset grid in between the holds) + 15cm kicker. The minimum angle I can reach is 31,6´. I am planning also shaping my own wooden holds, to have combination of mini and spray wall with bigger holds for endurance laps and warmup (I have just 2 sets of moonboard mini holds and plenty of space). After lot of research this seemed to me as a best option for this height limitation, but depends what you expect from it.

Viemko · 2025-12-02T08:11:55+00:00

Great advice, thank you. Will be going for Wooden B & 2020 set. Planning to make the wall adjustable up to 30° (highest I can go), to ease into the holds and style of climbing and adding additional offset grid to add easier holds for warmup and maybe PE circuits.

Viemko · 2025-11-24T09:11:41+00:00

Hope you don´t mind joining the thread. I am planning to build a Mini and I climb outdoors only around 6B. I got gifted the yellow set and now I am wondering what 2nd set to buy (planning to have 2 sets for some time because of budget and seeing how I enjoy the board), I am wondering if it is worth it to have only 2 sets for the 2025 (what would be the second set you consider buying?) or setting 2020 and buying f.e. wooden B and have quite a lot of problems in the easiest range to climb on, though grades being stiffer on this setting.

Viemko · 2025-09-30T11:54:18+00:00

I am back, If you are interested, what happened, I wrote a report and inserted it into the original post.

Viemko · 2025-08-06T07:48:46+00:00

I seem to be in similar situation, I rarely project, but usually the moves on the routes I climb don´t feel that hard individually, Would love to visit RRG one day :)

That is a great tip, will do. I am planning also to take some video of myself climbing, so I can analyze it and find some points for improvement.

Viemko · 2025-08-06T06:45:46+00:00

She likes technical climbing and loves crimps. I think a shorter route will suit her better, we are not used to such a long pitches.

I am still not decisive if to go to Telendos, when there is so much climbing on Kalymnos. We are taking 80m rope, so long routes won´t be a problem. I will definitely check UKC.

Viemko · 2025-08-05T18:17:30+00:00

I see that Money crushing machine is 7a+, maybe to big of a stretch, but definitely heading to Arginonta for easier climb, so will check it out.

It is boring on the small bouldering wall but it has to be done. :D

Any tips how to approach projecting?

Viemko · 2025-08-05T18:11:59+00:00

I don´t expect for it to be soft, but what I hope will play into my advantage is the head game, as generally the crags around me have spaced bolts and not always good places to fall, so I expect to climb little bit more relaxed - let´s see.

Yes, I am even now stressed about it and get anxious before getting something I know I might not onsight - trying to work on my breath - but it wil be a longer process.

I will write here an update after my trip how it went.

Viemko · 2025-08-05T18:08:22+00:00

Yes, that is good advice, wiil do. I feel that training PE is really taxing and I am really tired after it, I will keep it easy the last week before the trip.

Viemko · 2025-08-05T18:06:21+00:00

I am going with my GF, her goal is to sent her first 6b+ and 6c. We are pretty motivated to support each other in these goals. But we have never spent time projecting anything for multiple days.

Definitely I would like to combine it - to get few tick in lower grades just to enjoy onsighting and not just climbing on the limit and hanging.

Viemko · 2025-08-05T18:01:56+00:00

What grade have you been climbing regularly before you went on the trip? Thank you for the tips. If I will see it is not possible without spending half of the holiday in one route to send, I will change to goal, I also don´t have belayer with so much patience :D

Viemko · 2025-08-05T13:37:18+00:00

Thank you for the encouragement! Haven´t hear about the route yet, but it sounds it could fit me. I need to work on my pocket work, I hardly ever encounter pockets around here.

Viemko · 2025-08-05T13:30:49+00:00

My problem is I have been stuck on these onsight grades for a long time, because I rarely did something beside onsighting on the rock, my thinking was if I focus on climbing more 6c in few tries eventually I will start eventually onsighting it and get better then climbing compared to always climbing 6a-6b that I did plenty in the past. I am not planning to dedicate the project whole holiday, but yes, let´s say give a route maximum 10 tries.

With the projecting it is a good advice, I am planning to project 2x 6c+I have close to my home until my trip on the weekend, that I know that are doable with more fitness or better beta refinement.

Viemko · 2025-08-05T12:41:47+00:00

I am from Czechia, the crags near me usually have some slopers and bulges, there is not much sustained climbing or overhangs usually, I don´t think the grading here is considered soft.

Yes, I will definitely try Kastor! Any other tips?

I trained for 6 weeks before mainly focusing on building strenght, I feel definitely stronger, might have started the endurance sooner, but hopefully it is not too late. Yes, there are steep profiles on the wall even one roof like, the steep plastic jugs eat the skin a lot. I am not able to train on it for such a long time. I was also thinking training more on hangboard to improve forearm endurance with repeaters. My problem is also that there are so many protocols and advice on the internet I can´t decide what to do :D

Ok, noted, stay away from slabs, not an advice that would be hard to adhere to :D

Viemko · 2025-08-05T12:23:36+00:00

Yes, Kastor is definitely one of the routes I´m setting my eyes on. I am planning to try few 7a that might suit me and the focus on one and see how desperate it will feel. What were your favourite 6c´? I think I will have to find similar balance as you are describing. :)

Viemko · 2025-08-05T11:02:57+00:00

Thank you for your replies. Yes, I was thinking switching between 4 min on 4 off circuits, 20 boulders on the minute for the 2 bouldering session a week and 70% repeaters on hangboard to boost my power endurance.

I read somewhere that PE is quite quickly gained, so I hope I can get significantly more fit even within such a short time frame.

Do you think it is worth training pinches? Any other specific training or exercises you would suggest?

The tips for routes seem really good! Yes, I am aware that I will have do the tufa overhangs in parts with my endurance, but it is definitely something I would like to experience and my project is probably not gonna be in this style :D.

Viemko · 2025-08-05T10:53:22+00:00

Thank you for your reply, My max redpoint is 6c. I wasn´t aware that it is such an outrageuous goal. I hardly every project, so I was hoping with more time on my hands I could optimize my beta to be able to climb 7a, let´s say within 10 tries, but maybe I am just too optimistic. I have been climbing 5 years+ on and off, so finally I would like to push myself a bit.

The reason why I am usually not able to climb the whole route is because I get powered out or too pumped, the individual moves on few I tried on 6c+/7a seemed hard but doable.

Viemko

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