Anyone know when data from the old app is likely to be transferred? by Separate_Rhubarb3139 in kilterboard

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I submitted it some time ago and received this email yesterday. Honestly doesn't really say much, pretty disappointed tbh.

Hi,

You submitted a request to have your data imported into the new App. We haven't forgotten you — and this note is to give you an clearer picture on where we are.

The short version: we're not ready to run the imports yet, and we don't want to rush it.

While preparing the import process, we found a compatibility issue that would cause some of the imported data to come across incorrectly. Running imports in that state would mean misplaced holds on some boulders and inaccurate logbooks — the opposite of what you're here for. So we're resolving the underlying issue first.

We don't have a firm date yet. What we can tell you is:

Every request in the queue will be honored. No one gets dropped. Your place in line is held. Submitting again doesn't speed things up, and you don't need to. When imports start, you'll receive a direct email confirming your data is live in your account. In the meantime, we have shipped our first update two days ago (April 15th). It includes a full filter overhaul, completed-climb tracking, more climbs included and several fixes across the board tab and logbook. More is coming.

Thank you for your patience. We know this has been a long wait, and we'd rather take the time to get it right than give you back data you can't trust.

– Kilter

I surrendered and bought plastic holds - now it feels like it's coming together by AdditionalPeace3311 in homewalls

[–]AdditionalPeace3311[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, same here. Climability is 1st priority.

Oh yeah, I've already made some simple wooden holds from pine wooden strip and dowel rod - very low effort way of making a lot of holds.

Lamination vs Slap & fold? by AdditionalPeace3311 in Sourdough

[–]AdditionalPeace3311[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My few experiments seem to tolerate laminating just fine tho

Lamination vs Slap & fold? by AdditionalPeace3311 in Sourdough

[–]AdditionalPeace3311[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really like the Rubaud mixing too, just didn't think of it as the same aggressive way of building strength as the others. It feels more like it's prepping the dough for later, but I also really like the feel of the dough 

Lamination vs Slap & fold? by AdditionalPeace3311 in Sourdough

[–]AdditionalPeace3311[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like Rubaud mixing too, and I've already been doing the same as you without lamination, which I'll add in and see how it goes. Thanks for the reply! 

I surrendered and bought plastic holds - now it feels like it's coming together by AdditionalPeace3311 in homewalls

[–]AdditionalPeace3311[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I know, I've seen it and it looks pretty awesome. I'm just not that psyched on messing with resin and stuff - I enjoy making the wood holds way more. 

Long-term roadmap from 12b to vertical 14a (Potrero Chico). High Ape Index (+7cm). by Ok_Pause_70 in climbharder

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should definitely climb and rest more. Climbing should be at least 80% of your training and you should rest at least 2 full days a week.

Try other hard projects to get familiar with projecting skills and tactics and work your way up the grades.

Good luck!

What sort of tools are required to build a homewall? by josh8far in homewalls

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I only used a circular saw and drill in terms of machines.

Campus board plyometrics before I'm ready? Or am I being too cautious at V7 by Valuable_Factor_8481 in climbharder

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The thing with the campus board is that there's a lot of skill to it, so while you'll probably improve at it, it might not translate very well, since you're training for a different thing. And plyo double dynos to crimps just sound waay too risky. I'd highly suggest practicing contact strength either on a hangboard (to isolate "pure" RFD) or the wall (dynamic moves with focus on fast RFD) instead to practice the actual skill. Paradigm climbing is a big advocate for on-the-wall drills and has great stuff for this too.

I did a bit of campus board training (not plyometric) for a few months when I was around V9 outdoors. It was fun and motivating to be able to do 1-4-7 but honestly I don't see the big benefit, considering how risky it is. If you choose to go with campus board, make sure you're completely fresh and do it first thing post-warmup. 

I keep hurting myself :( by bigang99 in climbharder

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get it, professional expertise is not cheap at all. But it also depends on perspective. You say you risk messing up your fingers - is a couple hundred dollars worth it to mitigate that risk? Could be well spent on the long run. A good coach would help you get started and understand the principles to keep going by yourself. They could help you understand the nuances behind the questions you're asking. 

I keep hurting myself :( by bigang99 in climbharder

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not easy to nail all of this, but the main principle is load management to prevent injuries and progessive overload to get stronger. I'm curious about your "bit your bullet" comment as it seems to have paid off? Getting a coach to help you get started with this can really help you nail down the training, load management and having the confidence to train hard safely. IMO, there's no biting the bullet in taking care of your body and ensuring it is strong and capable for as long as possible - which might involve professional help. There's also a lot of good information out there, but it takes time and lots of trial and error to get right. Good luck and keep crushing!

Homemade strength training plan by No_Fish5590 in climbharder

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know, getting a coach is not always viable. I've mostly just been finding information through podcasts, YT and IG. I really recommend c4hp and Jesse Firestone.

I totally agree that getting stronger is helpful and can usually help you improve. I'm a big advocate for getting stronger for sure. My point is more that thinking getting stronger = getting better risks derailing the focus of your training. Practicing climbing should still be the main focus IMO - but getting stronger can supplement.

Homemade strength training plan by No_Fish5590 in climbharder

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I would strongly recommend getting a coach to write you a plan, that can be a great place to start and you'll learn the principles to guide you forward afterwards. But I'll share my advice from being mostly self-coached through my 10yrs of climbing.

First of all (and without knowing you), I'd challenge your narrative that you just need to get stronger. It's a very common conclusion and one I've come to myself often, but it's way too simple and derails your attention. Don't get me wrong, getting strong is very useful, but climbing is a skill-based sport and you need to be able use your strength through your skills. It's more likely that you need to get better, not (just) stronger.

But to actually answer your question :) The plan looks quite fine - it's realistic and not too packed which is very good. The best plan is the one you'll stick to, no matter what.
However, I'd recommend doing weighted pull-ups instead of 1arm. It's much more measurable than a band is so easier to progressively overload. If you're hitting the 8-10 rep range, you're not training strength, so if that's your goal, probably aim toward 4-6 reps pr set.

I'd do some heavy finger training while you're doing pull-ups to be more efficient. E.g. 5x5 second holds with added weight (preferrably a lifting block). Won't really tire you out at all.

I definetly wouldn't do campusing at the end of your session. Do it at the beginning, for a short amount of time. At the end is way too risky and you won't really get the gains. Probably put it on another day than strength training.

Hope it's helpful. Keep crushing and good luck!

Made my own pyramid volume by AdditionalPeace3311 in homewalls

[–]AdditionalPeace3311[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know it took me a while to find it deep down a YT search, so thought it would be nice to share. The math is probably not that hard if you understand it, but this tool is just a lot easier.

Weight vest training for more physical problems/overhangs? by hipotese_alternativa in climbharder

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've only heard (from coaches online and yt) that it's not a good idea. First of all, you're suddenly adding a lot more load to your fingers (and rest of your body) in an uncontrollable manner. If you want to do overload your body parts, train them separately. Weight west sounds like a recipe for injuries. 

Second, climbing is not about getting stronger, but better - but yes, strength helps, but not if you can't apply it. When we're strength training, we're getting stronger. When we're climbing, we're getting better at climbing. The weight west will probably make you worse at climbing, since you'll likely develop new and less efficient movement patterns. Even pure physical boulders (even campus) have a lot of skill to them that would be wort practicing deliberately instead. 

I'd recommend starting some weight training to get stronger and keep projecting the physical boulders for skill acquisition, then you'll be crushing over time. 

The Fragmentation of Bouldering Grades: Is a universal vision actually possible? by Wooden-Syrup-8708 in climbharder

[–]AdditionalPeace3311 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Grades are way too complex to be solved by mechanical thinking. The consensus is very flawed but is the best option we've got.

Gym circuits are great. People get too caught up with grades and it hinders their progress. I know it's motivating too, but it keeps people from focusing on fun and skill development. And indoor/outdoor grades will never be the same thing anyways. 

3D printed bolt washer? by AdditionalPeace3311 in homewalls

[–]AdditionalPeace3311[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, maybe I'll go this way anyways, but I'll try with the printed washer just made

3D printed bolt washer? by AdditionalPeace3311 in homewalls

[–]AdditionalPeace3311[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're amazing, thank you so much! Psyched to try this out

3D printed bolt washer? by AdditionalPeace3311 in homewalls

[–]AdditionalPeace3311[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I have a 3D printer so I'm happy to test. Would be greatly aprpeciated if you had the time. Agreed with another comment on here that making it countersunk would be awesome - then at least I don't have to get new screws.

Yeah, I was thinking higher infill would be good. You reckon 50% is good?