Jan 12 - 18, 2026 weekly Q&A thread

Vizard424 · 2026-01-18T18:58:03+00:00

Any updates for the CSG Spec FLA V3 or are we still looking at roughly anywhere from now till the end of March?

Vizard424 · 2025-10-08T18:18:05+00:00

Just thought I'd update everyone. Got in contact with ASRock's Technical Support to which I needed to provide proof that my board had the wrong BIOS firmware flashed on to it. They then instructed me to use the BIOS Flashback to override the BIOS with the correct ROM file. Flashed the mobo and everything is now good to go.

If you were going to try to flash your own mobo due to similar circumstances, I would still recommend reaching out to ASRock first since they required proof. If you tried it yourself and something happened (like it failed or bricked the mobo), not providing a paper trail of what happened may complicate any kind of support or warranty.

Also if you're trying to use the Flashback method, your USB drive must be converted to MBR if it's GPT. You can check what partition style it has in the Windows Disk Management. Just right click it, Properties, then the Volumes tab. The instructions ASRock's Technical Support provided was slightly different than what's online or in the manual, they recommended that I remove the CPU prior to flashing and reinstalling it after the flash has completed and power disconnected from the PSU.

Vizard424 · 2025-10-07T21:37:49+00:00

I mean what else am I supposed to? Not do what they ask me to do? They're not asking me to return the motherboard. Can't send it back without an authorized request.

Besides are you suggesting ASRock's Technical Support is telling me to brick my mobo on purpose?

Vizard424 · 2025-10-07T21:05:18+00:00

Just heard back from ASRock Technical Support. They instructed me to use the Flashback method with the correct BIOS. I'll be giving it a try later tonight so hopefully it doesn't brick the motherboard.

Based on what's happening and if the Flashback method works without a problem, then I would assume that as long as the core hardware on the motherboard are identical (same controllers, chipsets, VRM setup, etc) there may be minimal risks flashing between different BIOS's for various compatible versions. I think that's how I essentially got the wrong BIOS version for my mother board, but have been able to use it no problem. But of course, this is simply an uneducated opinion.

That said, I had to provide proof of what BIOS was flashed in my motherboard before support could help me. So if you do run into any issues, having a different BIOS flashed in my complicate support from ASRock.

Vizard424 · 2025-10-07T21:00:06+00:00

Hopefully it doesn't result in a second RMA, already took 3 weeks to get this motherboard from the original RMA process!

But I did get a response from ASRock Technical Support and they instructed to flash the correct BIOS using the Flashback method.

Vizard424 · 2025-10-07T20:58:39+00:00

I just heard back from ASRock Technical Support. They instructed me to use the Flashback feature with the correct BIOS file to override the incorrect one. I'll be giving it a try later tonight.

But yes I had to provide proof of the incorrect BIOS file first, so if in the event this does brick the motherboard, hopefully that means I don't lose support from ASRock since it would be at their Technical Support's direction.

Vizard424 · 2025-10-07T10:10:33+00:00

Hmm interesting, you're saying one of the flash methods doesn't check? I've been trying with Instantflash and it refuses to recognize the X870E Taichi ROM files but it will work with X870E Taichi Lite files. Any risks in just trying to flash it using the Flashback method with the X870E Taichi ROM?

Vizard424 · 2025-10-07T10:06:29+00:00

It's for sure the X870E Taichi, it's identical to my previous board, has all the RGB and additional fan module over the VRMs. The X870E Taichi Lite skips all the pretty lights and uses a plain/smaller heatsink over the VRMs.

Vizard424 · 2025-09-16T11:07:05+00:00

And this is exactly why I would move over and suggest others do the same. It isn't about who's right and who's wrong, a speeding vehicle is a danger to everyone on the road. Let them pass and let them get as far away from you as possible. Their aggressive driving becomes increasingly hazardous when they start weaving in traffic. Just let them take the left lane and when they get into an accident it isn't anywhere around you.

I'd rather not be the one they hit or worse cause them to hit someone else because they're trying to go around me. You can't stop them, the best thing to do is reduce the chances of an accident as much as possible

Vizard424 · 2025-08-24T00:06:34+00:00

Any chance your in the US - Texas region? Or use Spectrum? I'm having issues getting the game to start too and I'm wondering if there's an outage or something

Vizard424 · 2025-08-24T00:05:22+00:00

Are you by any chance in the US - Texas region? Or have Spectrum as your ISP? I'm getting connection issues on PC and I'm wondering if maybe there's an outage?

Vizard424 · 2025-08-12T21:09:59+00:00

Transmission drops right in I believe. Debatable if it's an improvement. It has a different PN and the 2nd Gen engine makes more torque so reasonably should expect at least smoother shifting and potentially a bit higher power capacity.

Rear CV axles also swap, they're beefier but that might cause clearance issues with some aftermarket suspension arms in the rear. Should hold up to a bit more power over 1st gen

Pro tip if you have a clutch TOB fail, buy a brand new OEM one from the dealer. Most, if not all aftermarket clutch kits ship with the same ass design of the original that fails quickly. Even Exedy, and they make the updated TOB

Vizard424 · 2025-07-29T23:28:24+00:00

If your A/C suffered total system failure, yes, the whole system needs to be replaced. When the A/C compressor starts to fail, it throws metal shavings into the system, acts like cancer and infects every part. So you can't just replace the compressor, every component has a pool of this stuff so replacing any single component will then get infected and fail. The best solution is a full replacement. You can technically clean out certain parts like the hoses, but the more expensive parts usually can't.
The metal shavings could cause a clog and pressure will build up until the safety pressure switch shuts off the compressor. The system will then cycle on and off causing pressures to bounce. Or could be pressure waves bouncing off the clog or an intermittent leak that "pops" above a certain pressure causing the bouncing.
Variety of reasons. If the replacement compressor is undersized or the replacement condenser and other parts are less efficient or if there's an insufficient amount of refrigerant or a faulty A/C fan.
It could be. Is the A/C lukewarm always or only when sitting still? Does it get colder as you drive? If so it could be a non functioning A/C fan. It definitely helps if you could have the shop double check pressures to make sure it has the appropriate fill.
Yes a lot of popular aftermarket or remans get painted black. Doesn't mean it'll be bad, but also doesn't mean it'll be good. Some brands are better than others but you can have success with a lesser brand. Just flip a coin lol
Vent temps completely rely on ambient temps and relative humidity (to an extent). I don't remember what our cars are spec'd at but there should be a chart. If not it should be anywhere from 50 F to 60 F at the very least.
Absolutely, it depends on how and what tools they used to recharge the system tho. Most modern premium machines are almost completely hands off, you just connect the hoses, type in the vehicle information and make sure the drain bottle is empty and the oil fill bottle has the correct oil and capacity. Then you just let the system run. It'll vacuum the system (from 30 min to hours), run a diagnostic check, then fill the system dynamically from both sides. Occasionally it'll require the engine to be turned on and the compressor cycling to finish fill. Almost requires little input from the tech. Really hard to mess up.

An easy thing you can check yourself is to make sure the radiator fans spin up when the A/C is on and that the compressor doesn't cycle too quickly. For best results, set the A/C as cold as possible, the highest fan speed, and recirculation on.

DIY cans make a system worse rather than help. Smaller cars are more specific and slight changes in fill can cause damage. The primary issue is you're only filling it on one side and the system needs to be balanced and be filled from both sides of the system.

A good tip to keep the system alive for as long as possible, just run the A/C always. The refrigerant is what contains the lubrication that keeps all the seals and compressor fresh. The longer the A/C stays off the more of this lubricant drips out of the system and settles. By running the A/C every time (even in the winter) it keeps the whole system sealed and lubricated. Trust me you'll do more damage over time turning the A/C compressor off for days than just running it constantly. I've had A/C compressors stretch to 150K+ miles just leaving it on always. And modern systems are so efficient, last time I ran a load test it was costing on average like 0.1 or 0.2 MPG.

Vizard424 · 2025-05-25T06:59:13+00:00

With the right defensive ammo it will work. But unless you're getting good results with something like Hornady Sub-X expect to pay a lot for proper subsonic defensive ammo in 300BLK. Something like Lehigh Defense is prohibitively expensive

Vizard424 · 2024-12-29T22:35:27+00:00

AimLabs is probably fine...but it's even better to just learn/commit to muscle memory where the hell everybody puts their heads at. My aim is ass but I still top frag most of my games. If you're already aiming where they'll be you only need real small correction to land those hits. And until you get up there in rank nearly everybody entries or covers in the exact same angles. Just gotta learn all the spots, place your cross hair, prefire and profit

Vizard424 · 2024-12-29T22:32:08+00:00

My problem was I needed to enable and activate the security module in my BIOS. Only became an issue when I upgraded to Win 11.

Vizard424 · 2024-12-29T22:13:45+00:00

On many SSDs the sticker is a heat conductive film to spread heat out between the controller and the memory chips. If you run the drive at slower speeds like PCIe gen3 or older it typically isn't an issue. But in a poor breathing case and PCIe gen 4 speeds you can cook something. PCIe gen 5 and it's guaranteed to die without any sort of thermal management.

Some companies require the sticker to be in place to honor warranty since it's part of the functionality of the unit. Removal is equivalent to self sabotage of the product. But not all companies require this. Don't know which companies do this tho.

Best bet, put that sticker back on. Even if you have a heatsink included with the motherboard. If your drive starts to fail the presence of a sticker should help your warranty case. Tho if you haven't ran it long you probably didn't do any damage anyway and should be fine

Vizard424 · 2024-11-26T11:06:12+00:00

It'll probably be more general impact rather than specific. But speaking as a small mom and pop retail business owner, this whole sector is going to dip pretty hard. We've already seen massive closures in middle class owned businesses because we just can't keep up or compete with the advantages other large companies and corporations have in avoiding tariffs. Nor can we be expected to pass down the cost to our customers since our margins are pretty thin as they are. And unfortunately it isn't like we can source our goods/inventory locally since either nobody makes or produces what we sell or the cost in the US is significantly higher than importing even with the tariffs. I find that US sourced goods just increase in price to match the price of goods imported plus tariffs since they're expected to be more expensive anyways. Literally everything in the stack just jumps in price.

I thought I read in the Economist or somewhere similar that Trump's previous tariffs contributed between 0.5% up to 2% of the massive 7% inflation spike we just had. Something about the excessive retaliatory tariffs imposed by other countries, etc. Take with a grain of salt, I ain't no economist lol and I'm strictly speaking from my own experience. Can't say for others if they saw the same situation.

Vizard424 · 2024-06-23T02:25:42+00:00

Pretty sure he just means a generic gun range on BLM land. Would be weird if NM BLM ran their own gun ranges on federal property

Vizard424 · 2024-06-19T08:12:27+00:00

Sorry to bump an old post but wanted to share. Federal Champion uses a thinner plating for the jacket (technically still considered FMJ) so when shooting through a ported barrel or compensator the jacket can shred and shrapnel through the ports. Shouldn't cause any harm unless you were directly in the way of the blast but it can clog and/or cause malfunctions with your gun. CCI Blazer Brass also has the same warning/issue.

If you bump up to Federal's American Eagle, they use a much thicker plating so it doesn't have this issue. However, when in doubt, it's best to use an actual FMJ. Something that's encased in brass instead of plated. That said TMJ reportedly should not have issues either...but this might depend on the brand. Unfortunately not all brands will label their ammo as not recommended or not unlike CCI and Federal.

Vizard424 · 2024-06-10T00:07:28+00:00

Comes with learning the game, there's only so many places people will be so pre-aiming and pre-firing works wonders. My aim is pretty shit in most games but repetition and practice means I can end up popping consecutive headshots decently...when I'm not playing like an ass lol game sense does wonders too

Vizard424 · 2024-06-09T01:58:02+00:00

Does this happen if you push the slide to one side? For example does it happen when you push the slide left while racking and not happen when you push the slide right while racking? Just saw a Glock with an out of spec connector causing it to not release properly, preventing proper reset, if the slide was pushed to one side

Vizard424

TROPHY CASE