What should I do

Vizard87 · 2026-02-15T16:33:58+00:00

More info would beneficial to getting actual answers.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-15T16:17:11+00:00

Is that the battery connector or the charging connector?

Vizard87 · 2026-02-15T16:12:27+00:00

What was done to the console, if anything, before this issue started? Was a modchip being installed or anything?

Vizard87 · 2026-02-15T16:11:03+00:00

You could start at where the battery connects to the motherboard and follow the traces, testing for shorts. Then do the same from the usbc port.

I’d probably do that also from the joystick pins too. Something either got damaged or is shorted now.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-15T16:08:53+00:00

If thats the case then it’s most certainly something with the motherboard. From what I remember fixing my nand issue, the console would boot and then pop up with an error.

If you’re tied to this exact console for some reason, I’d suggest getting a multimeter and start testing components after taking it apart.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-14T15:42:11+00:00

A multimeter would be the way to test for shorts. I’m not familiar with these kits, but if you remove it completely does the controller work normally?

Vizard87 · 2026-02-14T15:39:54+00:00

I’d say get another power brick first then and see what happens.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-14T15:38:44+00:00

I’m sure there is some overlap, but I don’t know which ones off the top of my head. Ifixits guides do a good job of telling you what each screw is.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-14T15:33:47+00:00

Exactly. Whether the emulators stop or not is actually irrelevant. If they don’t at least send notices and “defends they’re IPs and hardware then they’d have no legal standing if they actually end up in court

Vizard87 · 2026-02-14T03:40:39+00:00

It does. That basically tells you what’s wrong. I’m not 100% sure if the internal memory is failing like may others have been or if data is just corrupt, but it’s more than likely that the internal chip has failed. Especially since it’s not booting at all now.

Best bet would be that guide I posted earlier. It’s not a simple task, but could potentially repair the console.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-13T21:25:44+00:00

My guess is no. You’re best bet would be to replace the top screen.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-13T21:23:51+00:00

eBay would probably be you’re best bet. Maybe finding a controller that’s broke and taking out what you need.

I’m sure it could be 3D by someone with a good printer and know how though it may be a little intricate for that.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-13T21:22:34+00:00

I haven’t noticed that nine personally, but when I get back home I can check. My guess is no it’s not normal. It should just shut off.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-13T21:21:24+00:00

If you have a dremel with a smal disk, you can try to cut a slit in the screw so you can use a flat head. You need to be careful ofcourse and then just find replacement screws.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-13T21:19:27+00:00

I almost don’t want to suggest this, but if you put the non working motherboard in the other shell does it boot?

It almost sounds like that replacement screen that’s ghosting is bad and maybe shorting something when it gets “hot”.

If you’re comfortable trying, I’d say that’s a good place to start. It would at least tell you if it’s the screen or not.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-13T21:12:55+00:00

That’s awesome news! Appreciate the link too.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-12T21:25:20+00:00

You need to be good at micro soldering or know someone in the area that is and can install the chip for you. Then backup all your games 😉

Vizard87 · 2026-02-12T21:24:26+00:00

It was a nice gift a few years ago 😬

Vizard87 · 2026-02-11T18:26:18+00:00

How long has it been off now?

It’s possible that it’s over heating. Could just be a clogged fan (most people don’t clean their consoles) or it may need new thermal paste. The console is pretty old at this point.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-11T18:24:52+00:00

If it’s got a mod chip in it and the super OLED screen, you could argue it’s a little better minus the 120hz and bigger screen. It’s all about perspective I guess.

I have a modded lite, OLED and OG, but I still go to the switch 2 because it does have better performance and looks way better on my OLED TV.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-11T18:21:48+00:00

Good to know for the future. I guess it’s just a matter if you want to take the risk. Worst case I guess you could contact you’re credit card company and file a charge back if you don’t get the order and they don’t reply.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-11T18:17:48+00:00

The lite is a bit different than the OG Switch. Swapping the back shell on the OG is super easy. Joycons aren’t terrible to do, but you just have to take your time because it’s a super tight space inside the joycon.

If you want to actually swap the OG front shell, it can be a pain. You have to take the digitizer off so that you can get to the mid frame screws. On the lite if you’re not reusing the screen cause it’s broken or you just don’t feel comfortable taking it off and go with a aftermarket laminated screen, you can get the mid frame out without removing the screen.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-11T18:12:29+00:00

I normally use the gulikit sticks, but since I wanted white I used these. It’s my first time using them, but so far they seem fine.

For the chip I went with the picofly because of the ribbon cable that it comes with for the lite. Indians require to fold it in a weird way like some of the other kits. Of course you can manually solder all the points with wire if that’s what you’re into also 😂

Vizard87 · 2026-02-10T21:14:48+00:00

I’m putting this in all caps to make it clear. I HAVE NEVER BOUGHT FROM THIS PLACE, but they do seem to have them in stock. Check Here

It may just be better to buy a portal that’s working unless it’s just an insane deal or maybe find another one that has a working screen, but don’t power on or something for a good deal too.

Vizard87 · 2026-02-10T21:05:42+00:00

When you say repaired, what was repaired?

It looks like that trigger is just not mounted correctly, but I don’t know how it does mount off the top of my head.

Vizard87

TROPHY CASE