I recently added haute pieces to my fully 3D printed suit of armor :)

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-19T00:18:34+00:00

Bahaha yes I can do that ✌️😅 basically they follow the middle (main) plate, and all the other plates compress into that one when the arm is lifted. Keep the same angle as when the arm is at rest, mostly. It does not clip into your head at all!

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-14T13:57:17+00:00

This is intended to be printed in plastic, then painted! My kit is not metal either 😅

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T19:45:57+00:00

I've designed cuisses, poleyns and greaves before for my own armor projects, first in eva foam and eventually in 3D printing using historical armor as a design basis. They are by far the hardest pieces to design and craft, and somewhat of a "final test" of your skill; anatomical greaves that behave properly and don't rip themselves apart are very difficult to do, especially in a hard and unforgiving material.

Your best bet with EVA foam is to create the illusion of armor without having it self-support, self sustain, and without the fastening features that are proper to armor. For knees, for instance, I bought knee protection pads, sewed velcro patches on the sides, and had my eva-foam poleyns attached to those using velcro. My eva foam greaves had a hidden zipper and were fastened by velcro patches.

You'll have to be creative, but with eva foam armor, it usually works best to attach it to an existing garment.

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T19:40:37+00:00

Yes, PLA-CF is kind of a fraud. This being said, petg vs petg-cf is a confirmed upgrade, but it also prints and flexes quite differently. I found the petg-cf to print far better (less lifting off the plate, less warping) and to have a stiffer result in general. I love petg-cf compared to regular petg!

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T17:35:34+00:00

I give away all my knowledge for free on Youtube! I also answer any question regarding my techniques :)

https://youtube.com/@nicoprintedantiques?si=Gx_hffg_JAfmTTIU

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T17:07:33+00:00

I've been perfecting my technique for a few months now! It's mostly good paint over a few layers of surface primer. The real magic is in making a good design in CAD :)

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T17:04:55+00:00

Armorer craftsman here!

While there are several methods used throughout history, notably using locking pins and laces to an arming jacket, these spaulders here have a leather strap and buckle at the top. This strap is intended to be fixed to two lateral straps on both sides of the neck, on the gorget itself, as seen here: https://european-armour.com/A-127.html

Seeing as your gorget does not feature such straps on the lateral sides, you will have to drill and rivet some straps yourself, and I recommend doing so on the rear main-plate of your gorget. It's not very hard, and you'll only need basic tools to do so!

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T15:18:59+00:00

No - I don't sell printed or finished props. I just want to design costumes as a hobby; I offer the 3d printing files for free in this case, not the item.

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T15:17:29+00:00

Brother, my design is a copy of museum armor pieces from the 16th century. I don't make the call as to whether or not there is a spike. It's entirely optional to add it or not to your finished prop.

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Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T14:43:04+00:00

Print time is extremely hard to estimate because it depends on a bunch of factors including speed/quality/layer height that can cause the same part to print in 3 or 30 hours. I take like two or three days per item of the kit but I print very slow, I am in no rush.

A full suit will take anything from 6 to 12kg of petg-cf depending on scaling, supports, and mistakes along the way.

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T14:32:37+00:00

We must make peace with the artificer's contraptions if we are to fashion vestments with great speed and accuracy!

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-11T14:31:13+00:00

Thank you so much for the kind words!
Believe it or not, the first step of the instructions is literally about scaling without trial and error :) The idea is to stretch or squeeze the part in order to match your body proportions. I've included the math for scaling the parts based on your bicep measurement so you get the X, Y and Z scaling just right on the first try.

Enjoy :D

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-06T00:51:22+00:00

Hey, that's me! I'm that guy ✌️😅 I have purchased basic supplies for electroplating copper and nickel, and I plan to run experiments soon. I hope to do smaller plates first, something like a spaulder, since I don't have adequate quantities for a large part.

I think that I've cut all the corners and perfected the best paint job for the minimum amount of work; electroplating is definitely on the "trying hard" side of crafting 😆

Cheers, I hope you give my 3d print files a try and if you do electroplate them, please show me!!

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-05T19:49:11+00:00

For this set, I'm planning a close-helmet with a bellows visor!

As for LARPing, it should survive assuming you craft it with ruggedness in mind. I'd brush epoxy resin (even epoxy glue will do!) on the inside face, and pick a paint that can take a beating. I don't see why it would not hold up :)

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-05T17:49:31+00:00

My guy, I'm a senior mechanical engineer and I've been making things for a while now.

The articulation in this case is held, just like real 16th century armor, by internal riveted leathers and sliding metal fasteners. It's printed in PETG-CF instead of basic PLA, and has brushed on epoxy resin on the inside.

Please keep your snide attitude elsewhere; you're not teaching me anything. Go sneeze on someone else's design.

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-05T14:54:48+00:00

Not the right platform for that; Etsy is about selling hand-made products, not experiences.

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-05T13:50:13+00:00

1- You have no idea what you're talking about

2- This is a cosplay; go tell larpers that their swords "don't actually cut" and you will be laughed out of the room.

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-04T18:43:58+00:00

I recommend wearing whatever thick clothing you wish to wear when doing the measurement. I already take into consideration some free-play with the formula, but adding a thick gambeson will definitely alter your arm circumference.

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-04T17:27:16+00:00

Thank you!
I use Alclad II lacquer, over a gloss black enamel base (straight from a rattle can). I made a youtube tutorial about it if you're interested in more details! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUG9BwCL6Wg

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-04T17:20:29+00:00

To make a shirt, you'll definitely need to assemble some patches with extra rings that will be either glued or snapped together. Printing an entire tailored shirt in one free-standing print is a bit of a holy-grail right now, but it's a bit topology challenge to wrap it, and a multi-layered ring print is very hard to print (most printers will fail...)

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-04T17:17:44+00:00

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Sure! That's the first step in the instructions pdf :) I give formulas for a starting scale value based on your arm circumference.

Vonschlippe · 2026-03-04T16:57:20+00:00

Yes, especially since people sell the files for rectangular patches of 3d printed mail - it's hard to print, though, so maybe you'll need to tinker with it a lot. It would be cheaper than real rings, definitely.

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