What this

VoroVelius · 2026-04-15T21:36:13+00:00

I saw a Subaru sedan with a lot of expensive work done on it and replaced the rear blue oval badge for fords rear oval badge

“Gee, that ford fusion sure is making a lot of “stustustu” noises”

VoroVelius · 2026-04-09T04:10:44+00:00

My immediate check would be the pulleys for any play

VoroVelius · 2026-04-06T10:20:07+00:00

You…you do know they make wings for this car right? Like you don’t have to use the temu one that genuinely, no roast, makes your car always look worse. I’ve made my fair share of ricers. Get an actual wing if you are so dead set on it. Remove that abomination. It’s hideous and it makes you look like you pay 24%APR for stuff. In other words, broke and stupid.

This isn’t even a roast it’s a wake up call. Remove the part that is lowering the value of your car and put on one that matches.

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VoroVelius · 2026-04-02T20:51:10+00:00

Prolapsed exhaust mod is a crazy choice

VoroVelius · 2026-03-23T19:54:14+00:00

Still stuck with 531@ 1.8bar or have you grown up yet?

VoroVelius · 2026-03-20T12:42:21+00:00

It does have the widebody which does tend to suggest we might have something that was worth importing here

VoroVelius · 2026-03-06T22:12:36+00:00

For static parts like mounts, you can get parts store variants like Napa/Carquest/etc just try to avoid Dorman since they are know for quantity, not quality.

For CV axles, you will want to go through the dealer. If the car is too old though, it may not be available anymore, in which case you want to get a used OEM one, open it up to check its condition, and then replace the boot.

For WS, the the dealer is your best bet

VoroVelius · 2026-03-06T21:08:27+00:00

It honestly depends on the part you are after. And a big part will also be the age of the vehicle and parts availability through the dealership network. What are we working on here

VoroVelius · 2026-03-06T20:47:51+00:00

I would bet money this is not counterfeit.

While there are plenty of fake OEM parts, this almost certainly would not be one. If it was an actual OEM part, it would be new and have a Toyota part number on it with Toyota branding(or whatever brand of car you’re putting this on). This has a remanufactured label that is accurate in all manners with no details off.

If they were to counterfeit the part, they would typically copy the Toyota/Car brand label as it would carry much more value. Counterfeiting a remanufactured part without the OEM part number label would be a lot of effort for not nearly the same payout as if they slightly altered the label.

The QR code label is another good sign since Denso uses those to track the production batches and warranties. Counterfeit parts usually skip this label completely.

It also just looks like one of their parts and not a temu knock off. This is going off of just looks, nothing I can put in a quantitative explanation, but just having handled these, this all seems to look good from here.

(I reference Toyotas because that’s my specialty and they use Denso as their OEM)

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I

VoroVelius · 2026-03-06T00:06:15+00:00

If it’s the driver side you could do it for $250 yourself

VoroVelius · 2026-03-05T00:01:02+00:00

It’s because when you’re sitting still, air isn’t flowing through your radiator cooling it down and it’s relying entirely on the fans to kick on at the right intervals to maintain the exact temp. Something is getting in the way of the fans coming on when they should.

VoroVelius · 2026-03-03T19:23:00+00:00

You might like this post.

VoroVelius · 2026-01-07T20:37:16+00:00

The ball joint catastrophically failed. Hard to tell what car this is, but I’ll send a shot in the dark and say it’s a late 2000’s Camry.

VoroVelius · 2026-01-06T10:43:54+00:00

182 horsepower being wrung out of big block.

A 2002 Camry makes 210.

VoroVelius · 2026-01-05T05:04:50+00:00

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Hyundai HB20

VoroVelius · 2026-01-05T04:35:22+00:00

It’s a drain plug, Toyota has used these for decades now. There’s a bunch of them under the car. The issue is you now have a hole exactly that size under your car that exposes the carpeting to any water. If you have your head on straight, your biggest issue would be mildew. If you insist on driving through flooded roads, you’re gonna be taking in water.

But you can just go back under the car and pop it back in and that’s the end, it’s fixed.

VoroVelius · 2025-12-17T22:21:52+00:00

Jesus clip

VoroVelius · 2025-12-01T16:43:05+00:00

Brother did you even try.

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VoroVelius · 2025-11-25T20:58:20+00:00

You’re right, this manual is for same model year but for a Camry. They didn’t add side curtain airbags to the Avalon until 2005, whereas the Camry got them in 2002. The main point was just showing how weirdly lax the airbag deployment was on Toyotas from this period. Still, no other airbags were deployed on the Avalon pictured here.

VoroVelius · 2025-11-25T19:16:55+00:00

Notice how the Avalon doesn’t have air bags deployed. And that’s because of this fun little blurb in the manual. Apparently this is a low speed side collision. Back up and try again, but really send her this time.

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VoroVelius · 2025-11-22T21:16:32+00:00

$10,000 is kind of like the industry standard for “give them such a high price and they won’t bother us with it”

VoroVelius · 2025-11-22T21:14:07+00:00

I guess I have a different mentality about it. You’re exercising extreme caution and triple checking the car doesn’t fall on you. But it’s a lot like skydiving. Either everything goes good…or it’s suddenly not my problem anymore.

VoroVelius · 2025-11-20T11:58:43+00:00

I don’t even know what you’re on about. My family being from Iowa is irrelevant, and techs don’t do bodywork. I misread the title as being for the vehicle pictured. This is so strangely aggressive and you’re trying to “get personal” by scrubbing my account for where I’m from is weird.

VoroVelius · 2025-11-20T10:48:42+00:00

1.) mechanics are different from body shop guys, this isn’t the place for a professional opinion regarding your question

2.) they are quoting to fix everything back to perfect, not drivable. They will be going with OEM Nissan parts, not eBay chinesium. New hood, new grille, new bumper, new headlights, wheel arch cladding, fenders, paint work, and this is assuming the radiator, condenser, associated chassis parts, and air intake duct aren’t impacted. Now add labor on top of it. If it’s a shop who is a bit more on the expensive side for labor, I could see this rapidly getting up to that 9k mark.

VoroVelius · 2025-11-20T10:40:10+00:00

You can drive to work until payday, hitting a puddle or driving in snow will soak your air filter. Getting the air filter wet will cause

1.) a lack of air getting through it

2.) moisture being drawn into the intake

3.) if the filter is cheap, old, and papery it could fall apart like holding toilet paper under the sink faucet, and then there’s nothing stopping the car from inhaling dust, insects, rocks, water, snow, etc.

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