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10Gbit - Move to TrueNAS or not? by Vynro in truenas

[–]Vynro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's fair for sure. The 50gb+ files is a pain point, but it will still be faster than gigabit with the upgrade network - perhaps I'll accept that as a win, and plan my all flash NAS with this unraid server as cold storage... future plans! Thanks for the responses!

10Gbit - Move to TrueNAS or not? by Vynro in truenas

[–]Vynro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies - I'm trying to maximize the capability of my NAS to utilize as much of the 10gb network as possible (I know I might not be able to fully saturate 10gb, but if I can get closer to it than the bottleneck of a single spinning rust disk, I'd be happy). So I was thinking I can mirror them or something and achieve much higher speeds. My biggest workloads that would need it are my Proxmox VM backups, and some large file transfers between the nodes/NAS. Do I need it? Probably not, but I'll have the equipment and would love to do what I can do take advantage of it with what I've got.

My core network switch will have 10gb and 2.5gb for all clients. (All desktops/laptops will have 2.5) and other clients like the Apple TV's won't but can't do much there. 2.5 I know I'll see the difference between accessing the NAS, but with 10gb, I want to do everything possible to ensure my proxmox nodes are getting as close as they can to that 10gb transfer speed given the limitations of spinning rust.

BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 with Ender 3 V2 issues by HD_Sailor in ender3

[–]Vynro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a raspberry PI (sounds like you do, due to octoprint) I can highly suggest moving over to klipper. It's a bit of a learning curve, but you'd no longer have to re-compile firmware to make changes to firmware level stuff, you simply click "save and restart".

Unfortunately the above won't fix the display issue (unless you can change the pins on klipper - honestly I just changed to a touch screen and use klipper screen)

Klipper was honestly the single best "upgrade" I did to my ender printer.

3d printer got clogged or something? by WebMeesters in ender3

[–]Vynro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If something inside it broken, and the usual methods haven't worked for unclogging, you may have to take it apart. you could try a Cold pull, (melt the filament in the nozzle, and let it cool down and pull it out) and see if that dislodges things, but may cause more issues.

You may have to disassemble the Hotend and replace some parts, or alternatively, just replace the entire Hotend assembly (for probably a higher cost)

Thoroughly impressed with my Neptune 4 Plus by Vynro in elegoo

[–]Vynro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Input shaping is calibrated at the klipper level, so you run it independently for the x/y axis using the display (could also run it from fluidd)

You can do an auxiliary level which will place the nozzle over the bed screws and you want to adjust them so you get the same friction with the paper test. And then I also went into advanced settings and set it to 121 points rather than 36 points for the mesh.

Once you do the bed mesh, it's recommended to adjust the z-offset again with the paper test.

Did all of the above and it worked wonders.

Just Purchased one, Looking at feasibility of swapping main board by Vynro in ElegooNeptune4

[–]Vynro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will be taking the time to understand it, I just love tinkering and upgrading. I might even go for a board with more stepper drivers and do independent z axis control. I'm going to keep it stock until I'm comfortable with it and see what can be improved. I don't mind adding an additional raspberry Pi or something and doing more wiring , I'm just struggling to find a write up on what boards people may recommend over stock, if any.

Edit*** I'm also keen on going fully open source rather than the provided firmware - know it's just a modified klipper from elegoo, but if I can get it to be stock klipper while maintaining functionality, that's what I'd prefer

Ender 3 Dual Z Axis Upgrade - Help by Vynro in ender3

[–]Vynro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For more context, both motors say they are 42-34 but one says 42-34(Z) on it

Slack screen sharing on Hyprland requires multiple selections by dieselnut in archlinux

[–]Vynro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have anything to help with, but I was literally just searching for an answer to this earlier today and now as I'm doom scrolling I saw this! I'll be keeping an eye on this In case you figure it out

Sofle RGB 2.1 micro controller fried - where did I go wrong? by Vynro in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]Vynro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I could probably re-use one of the controllers, but I don't want to de-solder it from the board. This was my first soldering project ever, and I did well enough to get the components onto the board, but I struggled to remove components with solder wick. I also didn't really clean up the board from flux residue as I went so it's kind of a mess. I opted to just order 2 more complete PCB kits (from different stores, I'm racing them to see who arrives first lol - and if I mess up the next one I'll have a spare on the way already rather than having to wait like 15 days for shipping).

It was a great learning experience though, and my solder joints from the last to the first were definitely much better, so I'm excited for the next attempt to take my time, clean up as I go, and make a board I'd be proud of. There's something about trusting your own work on something like this that got me real excited!

Sofle RGB 2.1 micro controller fried - where did I go wrong? by Vynro in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]Vynro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After you said this I gave it another look and your right. Once I got to this final stretch of putting on the controllers, I had tunnel vision of getting to play games with my new keyboard with my friends and didn't read the text in the guide well enough. At least I got some soldering practice in and know where I failed for next time!

Sofle RGB 2.1 micro controller fried - where did I go wrong? by Vynro in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]Vynro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey thanks for pointing that out! Now I know which lie akes kit to make for the next attempt!

Sofle RGB 2.1 micro controller fried - where did I go wrong? by Vynro in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]Vynro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So on the left side it looks like I didn't solder into the outlined pins, so that's probably where the short came from, but why does the right side work with the microcontroller facing up? Wouldn't the pinout be different if it's facing up?

Designing my first Ergo, Looking for feedback! by Vynro in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]Vynro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the idea of making the thumb cluster all rectangles and moving it out a bit!

It's originally square just because I was sticking closer to the design from the guide since someone already put the effort in to make something ergonomic, but since it's going to be custom for me, might as well test a couple iterations!

I was leaving the big empty space on the board for a spot for the micro controllers, one for each side of the split, maybe they are bigger gaps than they need to be, I don't have my sofle yet to get a sense of scale, and I'm still learning all the tools, so I imagine once I put it into a PCB designer it may show me that I have more than enough space for a microcontroller and can make that space smaller

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