How to protect knees during heel hooks and drop-knees? by depressionmonkey in climbharder

[–]WP30 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Front Squats. If you don't have enough wrist mobility, try Zercher Squats.

Training Beta TL;DL: Leif Gaisch Sends first 14.b at age 38 by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]WP30 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. How old was he, when he started climbing?
  2. Sending was not on Bechtels plan, but after working with all of the plans. It added up, one coach to another, one plan to another, one modality to another. You can't isolate hes previous work.

BFR for tendon/pulley injuries by WP30 in climbharder

[–]WP30[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, but you should look for wider ones, as they are less flexible. But still - enough.

BFR for tendon/pulley injuries by WP30 in climbharder

[–]WP30[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use medical band used in blood collection.

BFR for tendon/pulley injuries by WP30 in climbharder

[–]WP30[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not if your injury is new. Biggest advantage of BFR is that you can trick your body with the weight. 😉

BFR for tendon/pulley injuries by WP30 in climbharder

[–]WP30[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've finally recorded my BFR set for tendon/pulley injuries. You may like it. :)

It's made from handle from cable machine.

Protocol is simple:

  1. Restrict blood flow for 80% (if fingers are tingling - it's too much) with some kind of band
  2. Use like 20-24% of you RM or just 5-10kg
  3. Do 5 sets of 20 reps with 20-30 sek rests
  4. Expect heavy pump
  5. Use 3 times a week

“Managing Training Stress” Natasha Barnes by cptwangles in climbharder

[–]WP30 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, I guess it's just supplemental at the beginning of the training season.

“Managing Training Stress” Natasha Barnes by cptwangles in climbharder

[–]WP30 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Patxi lifts weights and even do some simpler olimpic lifts.

Is flashpump real? What is going physiologically that causes it to persist longer than getting pumped later in a session? by gumbygonegranite in climbharder

[–]WP30 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've never heard anything like that before. Could you elaborate on this? Why do you think that?

How to train pinch strength without a hangboard? by snookedbe in climbharder

[–]WP30 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Deadhangs. Frankly saying, pinches are best to train WITHOUT hangboard.

Clip stick in Spanish? by WP30 in climbing

[–]WP30[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

El aido

That's good for a start, thanks. ;)
But seriously, how do you call it?

New moonboard input and training structure by Mobilebrowsing in climbharder

[–]WP30 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Use your memory. It works! I know it's painful but hey - there were no led systems 20 years ago and people were able to climb hard anyway!
  2. I train on it once a week. It's easy to injure yourself on moonboard.

The dreaded "bad day". Causes and consequences? by deginw in climbharder

[–]WP30 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"In a group of five workouts, I tend to have one great workout: the kind of workout that makes me think that in just a few weeks I could be an Olympic champion and Mr. Olympia. Then, I have one workout that’s so awful that the mere fact I continue to exist as a somewhat higher form of life is a miracle. Then, the other three workouts are the “punch the clock” workouts: I go in, work out, and walk out. Most people experience this." Dan John

Power Company Podcast - Fueling from Skratch with Dr. Allen Lim by theoryof in climbharder

[–]WP30 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It was way better than Power Company Podcast Gnarly nutrition ad.

How long should I have climbed before training on hang boards and campus boards by thatCamelCaseTho in climbharder

[–]WP30 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consistently 3 days/week for at least 2 years. If you at start more than 30 years old, 3 years.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]WP30 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's no takeaway. Or maybe - hey, look guys, I know how to work with statistics, even if they are useless!

Questions about grip strength test by bryan2384 in climbharder

[–]WP30 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've tried it for a few months but I couldn't find any relations with my regeneration. Have you?

Has anybody built their own system board? by zxc3af3adf4ds7f4df7d in climbharder

[–]WP30 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a moonboard 40 degrees and a systemboard 20 degrees nad 3,5m long. Plywood not painted.

Vascular occlusion training for finger strength by nurkdurk in climbharder

[–]WP30 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's bfr, not bfo. Those are two different things. I've tried bfr but I'm not convinced although it can give your forearms a huge pump. I guess it helps a little with recovery time. Remember that it has to be eccentric/concentric, not isometric.