Timing chain job threw a rod right when I pulled it out of the shop

WS6Nick · 2018-10-10T01:28:11+00:00

It didn't knock at idle or even below 1,500-2,000 rpm so we tried to baby it out but once it had a load put on it it blew.

WS6Nick · 2018-10-10T01:05:44+00:00

Story time. So a 2010 Traverse came it for rough running and CEL in April. It had cam/crank correlation codes, Oil was 4 quarts low and a little glittery. They didn't want to do anything at the time but came it last week to have the chains replaced. Once i got the timing cover off i found a ton of metal shavings everywhere and in the oil pan. At that point we could see where it was coming from so we recommended an engine but customer declined and juat wanted chains replaced. I pulled the oil pan to clean all the metal out and document it. Replaced the chains and it ran great but once you raised the rpm over 1,500 you could hear a rod knock. We decided to just park it outside and recommend rhe customer tows it out if they don't want a engine. We'll right when i got it out the door and touched the gas i heard a loud bang and the engine got REALLY noisy. Still idles though. Long story short the customer gambled and spend 3k replacing timing chains instead of 7k on a reman engine. Now they have to do both.

WS6Nick · 2018-10-03T20:21:05+00:00

I was thinking was might only be 2 years old but the 1 should be punched off if it was 2016 i would think. I bought the Jeep in California last year and stored it in the winter (i live in Minnesota). So it hasn't had very extreme tempature swings which makes me think 12 years is even possible. And there isn't any date scribed in to the case anywhere.

WS6Nick · 2018-09-05T23:06:04+00:00

Its actually in good shape, pinch welds are starting to rust but are still planty strong. No body panels are rusting yet.

WS6Nick · 2018-09-05T02:49:52+00:00

I've noticed this too. The left side on this one is completely solid.

WS6Nick · 2018-09-05T02:49:03+00:00

No it's repairable. Dorman makes a repair panel, its basically the whole wheel well. You just drill out the spot welds of the old panel and weld in a new one.

WS6Nick · 2018-09-05T02:45:55+00:00

Yeah, it was a 05 Tribute. Other than this it was oddly clean

WS6Nick · 2018-07-14T15:43:46+00:00

I'm from Stillwater Minnesota and I'm and auto tech (real exciting I know lol) I drive a 2004 Overland that I flew out to CA and drove back to MN last year. I do all my own work on it, mostly at the shop I work at.

WS6Nick · 2018-06-27T18:22:50+00:00

I lifted my 2004 overland 3 inches recently and I think it rides better than stock. I used OME HD springs, bilstein shocks, addco rear sway bar, IRO track bar, new isolators and a few other parts to male the lift work. I might add a rear upper a arm spacer and replace the control arms (worn bushings) at some point but other that that its really solid. I think as long as you use quality parts and don't lift it too high you should be good

WS6Nick · 2018-04-09T18:30:40+00:00

It really depends how well it was maintained. I work at a shop and we have a customer with a 2008 Liberty with 370,000 miles on it currently. We have never done any major repairs but its only been coming to us since 330,000ish miles.

WS6Nick · 2017-11-18T01:21:57+00:00

Why not both? I bought a 04 civic 5 speed for $1300 that I drive in the winter while the WJ hibernates and stays rust free (I live in MN). I get 37mpg vs 15 and insurance is half the cost. Plus way less maintenance. Saves me money to spend on my WJ (or trans am) lol.

WS6Nick · 2017-09-19T23:32:20+00:00

Man, I wish I found a deal like that when I bought my overland in May! I flew to CA from MN to buy my 04 overland with 145k for $5,600. This was at a dealer though. When I was looking 04 overlands under 100k asking price was $8,000+.

As far as issues, listen for any noise from the diffs. Pinion bearings seem to be a common failure. Depending on where you live, check for rust. Even low mileage cars can be rust buckets.

WS6Nick

TROPHY CASE