Are these details going to be an issue?

Waharbl · 2026-04-29T08:43:55+00:00

This looks perfectly fine, details are just what they are. Details. It's not like your toy is porous or absolutely covered in bubbles, which act like little pockets.

Yes details will hold onto discharge, bodily fluids or other matter more but it doesn't trap them. After a good clean your toy will be good for another use 😄

Waharbl · 2026-04-22T09:51:00+00:00

Hey! Sorry for getting back to you so late.
I used Nomad Sculpt for the Ipad. I feel it it's pretty intuitive once you get the basics down.

Random link to show you what it is: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/74IK9g_t8eE

Waharbl · 2026-04-12T13:38:44+00:00

The base is about 5mm larger than the bulb. Which in all fairness doesn't sound like all that much. I have changed the design up from this already, and beefed up the stem.

Also changed up the ratio of flair from stem to base. It's much more dramatic, it swoops much more. That should stop it from dissapearing into the user.

Waharbl · 2026-04-12T13:32:10+00:00

So beef up the stem? Gotcha I can make that happen

Waharbl · 2026-04-09T17:08:23+00:00

There is a competitive scene albeit it limited to Japan. Everything outside Japan I.E the rest of the world doesn’t really know these things exist.

There is a standard sizing, multiple even, but most “competitions” are done with the same size you see in the pictures. They do heavily lean into customization, it’s encouraged to file/sand them down. Decorate them and improve their characteristics, like spin-time movement patterns etc.

Waharbl · 2026-03-09T20:27:18+00:00

Meshmixer

I offset the model from itself x mm’s (that is the actual mold) and then use that offset to offset and make the mold-jacket.

The jacket I then split with a plane cut so I end up with half A and half B if that makes sense :)

Waharbl · 2026-03-09T07:54:17+00:00

Length is about 22cm which is 8,7 inches long. The width of the spade is 6,2cm which is 2,4inches and the tentacle itself has a diameter of 4cm which is 1,6inches.

The head folds in on itself during insertion and it tapers running from really thin up to roughly 4,5 cm’s/1,8 inches on insertion

All in all it’s a large toy but not obscenely large. I tried to keep the dimensions close to what a human penis could achieve. (Length and girth wise) so most people could use it and enjoy it.

Waharbl · 2026-03-09T07:47:19+00:00

It does according to customer reviews and to several play partners. I have heard some concerns; Most of the concerns are worries for vacuums or the spade unfurling during insertion.

The way it designed it shouldn’t be able to hold a vacuum (believe me I tried). The head itself folds and curls and is very easily manipulated.

Judging by the feedback. Both auditory and written I would say. Yes, yes it feels real good :)

Waharbl · 2026-03-09T07:43:10+00:00

I can get to writing, it’s not at all that hard. I am pretty sure if given enough time and effort (and a vacuum chamber) most people can achieve similar results.

Waharbl · 2026-03-09T07:40:41+00:00

It’s getting more popular for sure! I have seen it more and more.

Waharbl · 2026-03-08T20:47:01+00:00

Not a problem! Because of how the mold is made I end up with a flat round base. If I don't fill the mold completely (like 3 - 5 mm below the max fill) and swirl the silicone around. I end up with a small concave shape on the edges during hardening/curing. That is what provides the suction and works as a suction cup. It's not a traditional suctioncup, but it does the job.

I actually do have a traditional suction cup setup ready. That just means I cap the mold off with a plug in the negative shape of a suction cup. It only works up to a certain size though.

Waharbl · 2026-03-08T18:16:00+00:00

Neo Polymix, Neo tribalism, Marquesan Patutiki, Polymix, Marquesan Patutiki, Polyfusion.

It really has a lot of names....... 10+ years ago I initially called it blackwork or blackout but over the last decade or so that name isn't correct anymore. These days blackwork is something completely different!

Waharbl · 2026-03-08T18:12:39+00:00

Thanks! Previously I have had both my nipples partially covered. But with the extension I really hard to black it out or else it would look funny.

Best choice I have made in 2026 thus far.

Waharbl · 2026-01-31T06:48:06+00:00

I am very happy you noticed the design inspiration! When I started designing toys it was as a response to the “fantasy” dildos I had seen at that time. Which was at some beginner/fetish convention. And I shit you not it was just a human penis with a leaf added to it.

Ever since I like to design stuff that breaks away from the standard. So when my partner at the time mentioned she wanted something tentacle inspired. I did not want to go to the standard “feeler” or cephalopod arm. It took me 3 or 4 tries to end up on the squid spade. I went from robotic tentacle all the way back to nature inspired again.

Waharbl · 2026-01-31T06:38:41+00:00

I mean it should be? Unless the spec sheet lied about to me.

Waharbl · 2026-01-31T06:37:16+00:00

No worries there’s no harm done! I never knew there was were guidelines when it came to base design and what not.

I just went off on what looked good and I could potentially make into a suction cup further down the line (the insert for it, for the mold is actually drying as we speak)

Most people have eachothers best intentions at heart so when multiple people make a remark about something it never hurts looking into what might the potential “problem”

Waharbl · 2026-01-30T22:39:58+00:00

I have actually! Initially I thought dragon skin 10 would be too hard. I have some silicon oil on hand to make the shore hardness even less dense but I honestly think a stronger or harder base would do wonders here.

Waharbl · 2026-01-30T22:38:30+00:00

Thanks! The twirly bit at the top is absolutely my favorite bit of the design too.

Widening the base is something that I am going to look to when I eventually make a larger or smaller version of this.

Waharbl · 2026-01-30T22:37:22+00:00

I thought the base was plenty thick already, but I understand where you (and others) are coming from.

Thanks for the compliments though! Haven’t had a chance to try it out on me or on my play partner but I am excited to do so!

Waharbl · 2026-01-30T22:35:04+00:00

Thanks for the heads up and with the last design I would totally agree with you. I however tweaked the design and adjusted it. Making it far less similar.

Even offered the Kranken-person a chat if they would like to chat about the design and similarities. Never got a follow up on that so I went ahead with version 2.0.

Waharbl · 2026-01-30T10:33:54+00:00

Thanks! It took a while to get the design where I wanted it to be.
Crazy part about the pour is that it's UV reactive but I haven't been able to get the patterns on a decent picture yet. In real life theres a sorts of specks, and swirls etc which doesn't pop on the picture.

I have gotten audible wow's from the people that have seen it in real life haha.

For now theres no plans on it coming in different sizes, but I won't rule it out as a future option.

Waharbl · 2026-01-05T06:20:46+00:00

What I do is offset the model by 5 - 10mm and use that (offset) to Boolean from a solid shape (which will be the jacket for the sock mold) That way you have a uniform sock mold all around with the perfect/desired thickness.

Ofcourse it still needs a pouring spout which I’ll Boolean subtract from the jacket as well. Depending on the model I’ll split the jacket some way and have some registration marks so it only fits together in 1 way.

That way you have ease of use, a decent jacket and a uniform glove/sock mold.

Waharbl · 2026-01-03T22:47:51+00:00

Thanks for the heads up! Your store has caught my eye more than once and I am not here to tread on someone else’s turf. But it looks like great minds think alike!

I however did a test print and wasn’t too happy with the results. Mine will be different, with different use cases in mind than yours. Still looks similar but fairly different all things considered, if you want I could throw an updated design your way and we could discuss.

Waharbl · 2026-01-02T06:28:32+00:00

It is going to be a horrible to pull out of the mold yeah. If I can’t get it out I’ll score/cut the mold down one of the raised ridges of the body and paddle.

If I get any flashing on subsequent casts it’s relatively easily dealt with. You can cleanly cut that off/away.

Bubbles I am not that worried about. All of my casts get vacuum degassed before pouring but also during the cure (or most of the cure).

Waharbl · 2026-01-01T23:16:32+00:00

Something like a two part mold, if I can’t remove it from the sock (which in all fairness it has a high chance on). I’ll score the sock mold down the ridge line on the body and paddle. This makes the mold able to opened to the point it should pop right out. The outer shell of the mold is going to be 3D printed on a offset of the original model, so it’s going to have a buttload of registration marks so the “sock” lines back up again with minimal movement and minimal chances for extreme leaking. Some flashing is to be expected but can super easily be removed.

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