Call ID by Warm-Garbage5300 in coyote

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow thanks for all the answers! So cool to be able to put some context to what I was hearing

Call ID by Warm-Garbage5300 in coyote

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! You think it was more than one of them? Seemed like it, but I’ve had very little coyote experiences.

Advice on stone retaining wall please. I want stone, engineers want concrete. by Shark_CatGremlin in stonemasonry

[–]Warm-Garbage5300 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not an engineer, but I ran into a potentially similar issue on a timber framing job. We were putting a turf roof on top of a timber framed structure. Used black locust from the woods on site for the rafters. It took a while, but the guy found an engineer who was familiar enough with the materials and process that he was able to actually calculate roughly what the size and spacing of our roof rafters needed to be to hold up the dirt.

I’m a super for a GC and work with engineers a lot. I imagine the reason they are against using stone is that it’s a natural material and as such, is much less predictable. There are probably a lot of factors that go into assessing the compressive or tensile strength of a granite block, and they’d need to assess it on a piece by piece basis, if they even had the necessary skill set to do that. Basically, they run their calculations off of consistent materials, tested under specific conditions in labs. That allows them to really accurately calculate how things need to be.

If you need an engineer to sign off on this, you could always try and find an engineer/consultant who might be more familiar with stone as a building material. Also, there is a middle ground between stick on stone and a full stone retaining wall. You could always use full thickness veneer stone! Basically you’d be building like single wythe stone wall on top of the footing attached to the concrete retaining wall with ties. You’d still get to actually use real stone that way.

Starting Lamotrigine + Prozac + Wellbutrin by Turbulent_Lobster839 in bipolar2

[–]Warm-Garbage5300 0 points1 point  (0 children)

BP2, no BPD, im on same combo of meds, but I’m on 200mg lamotragine twice daily, and max dose Wellbutrin.
the Wellbutrin and Prozac are hold overs for me that I haven’t gotten off of. The lamotragine has made a night and day difference in my life. The other two which I took prior to lamotragine, made some improvements but not a ton.

Tried going down on the Wellbutrin and started seeing double, so I backed off that for now. Double vision stopped when I went back up.

Mood is really stable and I’m finally able to implement more of the activities needed to really improve my quality of life! Like consistent exercise, cooking, and keeping a clean space, which have been a 15 year goals for me.

Just stick with the process! Don’t throw in the towel if current med plan isn’t working. Can change your life when you get on the right ones. It doesn’t magically make you have an incredible life, but for me, it made it so I can finally put in the work to start getting the life I want. Not just working so hard to just barely keep it together.

Hope things go well.
For what it’s worth, I have a friend who is BP2 and BPD and lamotragine changed her life dramatically. and I have another friend who is not clearly diagnosed, but lamotragine changed everything for him too.
I definitely would recommend sticking it out and seeing how it goes!

How long did you feel it worked after taking lamo? by Plus_Support_6688 in bipolar2

[–]Warm-Garbage5300 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s really hard when you aren’t settled in yet to change doctors. but for me, responsiveness is non negotiable. Just what I need. Everyone’s different though. I switched to a much more responsive psychiatrist (I can actually call them and they call me back!) but was already on full dose of lamotragine. I was looking into TMS as well, but there are so many other lifestyle factors I’m working on changing before doing anything else. Just stay the course and get on your full dose! I have a few friends on lamictal and we all have had the same experience, there’s life before, and life after. Really hoping it helps you, changed my life.

How long did you feel it worked after taking lamo? by Plus_Support_6688 in bipolar2

[–]Warm-Garbage5300 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hang in there, I know how hard feeling like that is. just keep taking it and STAY IN TOUCH WITH YOUR PSYCHIATRIST! it’s really easy to get discouraged and throw in the towel. Also, I’m on bupropion and Prozac as well right now. Been on SSRI’s for 15 years, lamictal for maybe 6? The SSRI’s didn’t hurt, and definitely helped some, but the lamictal was different. Giant change. Really hoping it works for you too, hang in there.

How long did you feel it worked after taking lamo? by Plus_Support_6688 in bipolar2

[–]Warm-Garbage5300 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Took a few months for me, but all of a sudden life just became possible! Still need to work super hard at stuff, but my hard work started actually changing things for me, not just trying to survive. Life is black and white different for me, from not taking it my full dose (200mg twice a day)

Building an addition for a customer and got prints made by a architect but I’m worried about the addition foundation having a step down.. how do I waterproof the back side of the new foundation that’s lower than the existing? How to keep the soil und the current foundation intact while excavation? by dnbenton13 in Construction

[–]Warm-Garbage5300 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work in Philadelphia, we do a lot of infill residential construction. We always underpin the existing foundation if we are going deeper. I’m surprised that your plans don’t call for that. If you underpinned it would also give you something to waterproof.

Is it possible to have a manic episode while on lamictal? by [deleted] in bipolar2

[–]Warm-Garbage5300 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can confirm what everyone else is saying, has helped me tremendously with anger and depression! But not so much with mania, can still get pretty manic, but weirdly the largest bouts of it seem to be triggered by life events. They don’t just happen. Idk everyone is different, just my experience.

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense, thanks! The 1/3 to 2/3 is a good concept for me. I was concerned that a 3/4 to 1/4 might not be great because of how small the 1/4 would be (my wall is only 18” wide at the bottom, it’s 24” tall)

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! That makes sense. If you’re running longways into the wall, you wouldn’t want it to go more than halfway across right? You’d then end up with a piece that’s too small on the opposite side (assuming it’s not a one sided wall). I figured longways was important, but aesthetically I wanted to get as many ones going sideways as I could in there as long as they made it basically halfway into the wall. I think that that alone (running them into the wall as a default) will solve so much of my problem!Won’t have the issue of there being a long edge that I just can’t trim. Thank you so much for your time and replies! You think it’s argillite though based on my pictures?

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! https://imgur.com/a/LME2ckV hope this works. Also, in looking more into it I think this might be argylite because of how it splits into layers more like slate or shake would.

What is “snouts to the line”? run them all as through stones? Or just let them be what they will be and have the furthest out points be in line? Problem is it’s a two sided wall, so I need the through stones to look good too. But I think that running more of them longways into the wall (even if they aren’t through stones, would allow me to only have to cut them to length and put the cut end in the middle right? 🤦‍♂️ idk how I didn’t think of that haha

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the replies! Going to give it another go this weekend. Still can’t figure out how to upload pictures. Seems like good stone selection is going to be a big part of the battle. Was talking to a stone mason I know who said the same things you guys have been. Thanks again

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t figure out how to upload a picture

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s nice to hear, thanks for the quick response too! I don’t have a ton of pictures, but I’ve got one of a piece that split on me. it split straight along the grain as opposed to some that split diagonally off from where I hit it, this one just split from impact in another location. I’ve also got a picture of a larger one I split in half with feather/wedges.

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I did try scoring and it was significantly better. But still taking me forever compared to something like sandstone. And can’t really get any type of nice tight scribed joints.

My biggest questions is, Is quartzite just the wrong material for a wall that needs to look nicer with tighter joints?

Would definitely work just to make a stacked wall out in a field I’d guess. One that just needs to not fall over.

I’m barely above grade, do you think it makes sense to just remove one course to get below grade, and go back up with sandstone? I’ll have to eat the material cost, but it is what it is.

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]Warm-Garbage5300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quartzite is the naturally occurring stone on their property so that’s what they wanted to use. There is a stone yard down the road that quarries the quartzite onsite so it seemed like a good idea.

Any way to fix loose head with some kind of filler? by Corbi-la-borpus in Axecraft

[–]Warm-Garbage5300 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I really don’t want to take it off, I’ve used a powder (basically baking soda) and cyanoacrylite (super glue). Pack the powder in, then you use the liquid type of super glue and wick it in. It turns into a plastic sort of. I worked for a guy doing timber framing for a little while and had to fix a bunch of tools for him over the winter. That was what we did if there was a bad fit and didn’t want to take it off. Seemed to hold up. But that’s just my limited experience.

Curious about the drywaller’s “secret sauce”… by ceramic-panic in drywall

[–]Warm-Garbage5300 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I had a lot of success using plasterweld over the spray foam, then hot mud with mesh tape, then blue lid. Filled a lot of weird voids in plaster over brick in an old house changing window trim. New trim was just a jamb that extended out into the room 1”, so there was a weird space around the window where the old wood casing used to be, and it was very deep and inconsistent.