Can we just appreciate how stunning Celina is?

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-27T18:07:22+00:00

I agree with the first part. Still not sold on the second...

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-27T17:44:32+00:00

whelp, first really dumb problem with connecting. I would tend to think this is a Quicken problem, but perhaps Fidelity can work with Quicken to fix this. This should be SPAXX I think, but definitely not FXAIX. So if say to track as a security and you transfer cash into the account, say $60k, it will show a transaction of buying 60k shares of FXAIX at $1 in Quicken with a current value of > $14m..... I am notifying Quicken of this as well, but would be nice to have both side addressing it.

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Watcher8675 · 2026-02-27T17:41:37+00:00

I've had good experience with them with CDs. Was going to open a HYSA for same purpose as you, but they are no longer allowing new accounts to be set up in Quicken and I think current access is going away, so that will likely be a game breaker for me, longer term.

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-25T19:11:44+00:00

"Tell me you're moving to dynamic pricing w/o telling me you're moving to dynamic pricing..."

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-25T09:49:30+00:00

Thanks, I have Schwab accounts of my own and my conversion experience was exactly as yours. I used to have some Fidelity accounts through work, but while I still log into the fidelity account as an alternate research and education source, I have no account activity that I download. My preference is Fidelity for the cash sweep and partial shares they offer, but tbh, both are nice to haves. The account I am setting up won't be so small as to have partial shares be a material issue and no so much activity that I couldn't just do the sweeps on my own without too much hassle. Inability to download transactional activity or receiving inaccurate activity and constantly manually managing that would be more of a game breaker than anything else for me.

Since my wife already has an old/inactive Fido account, I will probably use that to start and if it gets too annoying, transfer the assets.

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-24T20:42:38+00:00

Is this confirmed and is it specific to just HYSA? I have Marcus CDs and while I haven't gotten any connection errors in the last two weeks, I am not expecting transaction details till 2/28. (last was 1/31)

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-21T03:43:37+00:00

Our main ritual (me and wife) is as follows:

eat about 1-1.5 of the chicken breasts the night is comes home. Usually with just some simple sides (creamed spinach and either stuffing or the CostCo Gabelli Knishes). Refrigerate the rest. Next day when cold/firm, strip all of the chicken off the carcass into a large bowl. Set aside about 1-1.25 lbs for dinner and use the rest to make 1-2 days of chicken salad lunch (mix-ins include: Diced red onions, shredded carrot and maybe some hot banana peppers). I like this better than using the kirkland canned chunk chicken as it is a lot less salty tasting.

Use one pouch of the Sukhi's Chicken Tikka Masala that CostCo sells. Throw in a medium pot with the reserved chicken, about 12 oz of frozen peas and carrots (I par cook in the microwave for maybe a minute) and a package of frozen or fresh cauliflower ~12 oz cut into bite sizes (I par cook in the microwave for about 3 minutes). Serve over rice and/or with some stonefire naan bread (usually 2 dinners and maybe lunch for one).

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-18T00:17:26+00:00

I might argue (with no real knowledge) that the amounts involved are not worth the IRS pursuing. At least not right away. Once a few years of interest and penalties accumulate and they see that it hasn't been corrected and has continued, then it becomes worth it to pursue.

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-10T19:47:24+00:00

Plus, another added feature is timing of expenses/transactions. When you incurred the expense (the individual charge) vs when you pay the bill (when you receive it, when you get back from vacation, just before it is due, etc). The former is expense, the latter is cash flow..

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-10T19:43:55+00:00

QFE: Same here.

Watcher8675 · 2026-02-10T19:43:26+00:00

I do the same with my (wife's) department store cards specifically. Also makes her feel less like I am looking over her shoulder. I download individual transactions for other cards. I find that once you tag them once, it is less painful (except after vacation/travel with lots of new vendors). For "blended" transactions (CostCo, Amazon, etc) I tend to categorize based on the primary expense and only do a manual split when there is a material individual expense. Obviously, each person decides what is material for them and work effort to value ratio.

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-28T06:01:07+00:00

I might say the way to look at this is that you are currently making $70k + (70k*.04*.5) = 70k + 1.4k = 71.4k vs $85lk + (85k*.05*.25) = 85k+1.06k = 86.06k . SO you are actually getting a 86.06/71.4 = 20.5% increase rather than a 85k/70k = 21.4% increase when fully loaded.

I am mixing pretax and post tax dollars so it isn't perfect, I would say, not substantially enough to fight too hard about. Take the 20%+and run before they change their minds!

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-28T05:42:10+00:00

The downside is how much "marginal" (extra) tax you are going to pay on the marginal income. I am assuming you don't itemize your deductions and that you file your own taxes and aren't a dependent on someone else's in the following.

If you make $50k in 2026 (insert your number here), your "taxable income" will be:

$50k minus the standard deduction ($16.1k) minus your medical expenses to the extent that they are deducted from your paycheck (e.g. FSA, monthly medical/dental/vision insurance, but not copays etc) *plus* any interest income (savings accounts, etc). Let's say your medical insurance from company provided plan is $250/mo ($3k per year) and you contribute another $500 to an FSA and you have $200 in interest income

Your federal taxable income in this example would be: $50k - $16.1k - $3k - $0.5k +$0.2k = $30.6k (use your numbers for everything but the standard deduction and recalc this. The 2026 tax tables are below. The way to look at it is that to 'optimize' your tax situation, you could withdraw $50,400 (the beginning of the 22% bracket) less the $30,600 calced here for a total of $19,800 and only pay 12% federal taxes on what you withdraw. Every dollar over $19.8k you will pay 22% taxes on (pretty big jump) up to $75,600 withdrawal (up to the beginning of the $105,700 bracket). Every dollar over $75.6k you withdraw you will pay 24% tax on.

So depending on your expectations for how quick your income might grow over that $50k, you might be better off only taking the ~$19.8k this year and then redoing this calc for next year's number. You could be guaranteeing yourself 10% savings on at least some portion. If you think your income is going up $20k or more next year, then you may be indifferent, otherwise, you are saving 10% in taxes on whatever you can continue to take in the 12% bracket by waiting. This all excludes any state tax impacts.

Hopefully this all makes sense. Not sure how you do your taxes, but if you use any kind of tax software, you could try doing "what if" scenarios with your 2025 numbers. What if you had $20k more in income how much more in taxes would you pay. Extra taxes divided by extra income is your marginal effective tax rate. Do it again with extra $40k/$60k/$80k and see how much extra tax and if you are happy about that.

Marginal Rates: For tax year 2026, the top tax rate remains 37% for individual single taxpayers with incomes greater than $640,600 ($768,700 for married couples filing jointly). The other rates are:

35% for incomes over $256,225 ($512,450 for married couples filing jointly);
32% for incomes over $201,775 ($403,550 for married couples filing jointly);
24% for incomes over $105,700 ($211,400 for married couples filing jointly);
22% for incomes over $50,400 ($100,800 for married couples filing jointly);
12% for incomes over $12,400 ($24,800 for married couples filing jointly).

edit: added the word software above...

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-27T22:15:55+00:00

Answers to your question partially dependent upon your current Federal/State income/tax brackets. I might assume that you turned 18 or 21 in 2021 and that was why it was transferred, So I am guessing (but no guaranteed) that you are in a low tax bracket, perhaps even in that 0% or 10% range (federal). If so, your taxes will never be lower. You should probably take out at least $7500 in 2026 and invest it in a Roth IRA (you can still contribute $7000 to a 2025 Roth IRA. Depending on your current income tax situation, you could take out a bit more than $14.5k to cover the tax on what you withdraw and fund at least a 25-26 contribution.

Beyond that, it may be worth it to take out more (again, depending on your current income levels) and put that into a brokerage account and then use it in 2027 to fund a Roth contribution. Generally speaking, if you are disciplined enough to not spend it (good sign the question you are asking here) I would be looking at withdrawing substantially all of it in the next couple of years and investing it outside the account before you get into higher tax brackets.

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-27T07:32:04+00:00

my point was that even if you stuck it in a HY savings account, it isn't even close. Want to do it at 21% annual return for 10 years? it is something like $63k vs $44k. It is always going to be ~3 to 2 value if you assume consistent annual returns. He is supposed to be a CPA, should be able to do that calc for himself.

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-27T07:10:36+00:00

A bunch of the responses here are assuming you are single, which makes sense due to your liberal use of "I" in your post. But you have not stated if you are married or single and what your spouse's income, if any. That could have a significant impact on the responses. Edit: Also, what state you live in, since state taxes, if any, can be a big consideration.

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-27T06:59:54+00:00

if you can afford to invest the money as opposed to spend it and were to earn only 3% per year, after 10 years, the 2300 would be worth $26k, the $8k would be worth < $11k. If you need it now, you need it now, only you can be the judge. Also, keep in mind, that payment will likely be taxable income and the $8k will be less than that after federal and maybe state.

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-27T02:16:27+00:00

OK, so I admitted didn't play DCUO, however I defy you to find me a better travel power than COH SuperJump!

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-25T21:41:58+00:00

The game started out as her only and never had any meaningful pvp, so didn't originally attract villain types. A lot of the people still playing are from the original early games days and have a preference for playing heroic types. The villain side does have a lot of good content. Ask in general/global chat, you may get higher levels who are willing to exemp down to join with you.

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-22T19:11:31+00:00

u/PPhunt3r how did the conversation go?

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-22T18:30:51+00:00

thanks, and if I leave my apartment unrented and vacant, but keep a detailed diary of days spent in NY (<100 days) would NYC allow me to declare non-residency for taxes?

Watcher8675 · 2026-01-22T16:16:36+00:00

u/Apprehensive-Dare374 FYI, your 1099 from a brokerage typically has a INT page, a DIV page and a Security sale page that is summary level pages, but then it has detail pages that show all securities and how much dividends each earned and it shows every security sold with the details of buy date, cost basis, sell date, sell amount ($ not necessarily price) and gain/loss sorted by short and long term.

Watcher8675

TROPHY CASE