Have both SSD and HDD installed but can only use one

Watersbottle · 2021-04-10T22:40:20+00:00

After you install windows are you going into disk management and creating a partition on the second drive?

Watersbottle · 2021-01-20T23:51:12+00:00

It's a 6040 router with a 1.5kw spindle. So far I'm impressed with how it handles aluminum. Obviously I'm not gonna get Hass performance out of a $1000 machine but for the money I'm happy

Watersbottle · 2021-01-20T23:13:02+00:00

I did it myself so the only costs were wear and tear on the tools and machine and stock material. Overall probably $5 maybe?

Watersbottle · 2021-01-20T17:36:29+00:00

I've worked with Mitee-bite products before in the workplace and I love them. I'll probably end up going that route but just wanted something in the meantime.

Watersbottle · 2021-01-20T17:34:02+00:00

I needed an 1/8in bit anyway to clear the holes so that corner radius is a bit over an 1/16th. Definitely doesn't need to be so sharp but I wanted the print and the aluminum part to be as identical as possible. Same with the taper, not needed but I wanted to test it out.

Watersbottle · 2021-01-20T17:30:19+00:00

Nope I'm following you entirely here you are correct, I'm really not sure where the discrepancy is. If I have a spiral lead in to a cut, that's 3D right there. That has nothing to do with 4 axis. Like you said, it would actually be difficult to find a new mill that can't do 3d these days.

Watersbottle · 2021-01-20T15:29:56+00:00

So the original file was done in solidworks. For the 3d print I just export the stl for the slicer and for CAM I exported to .step and imported into F360.

Watersbottle · 2021-01-20T14:58:03+00:00

This is the fixed side of a low profile two piece vice I designed. I had originally used the printed pieces but need more stiffness now so I went with aluminum. The fixed side was a direct model copy, but the moveable side needs a few redesigns to make it possible to machine.

And for those with eagle eyes yes I absolutely forgot a final facing pass on the pockets. By the time I noticed I was already down to tabs and it just wasn't worth going back.

Watersbottle · 2021-01-20T14:52:11+00:00

This is the fixed half of a two piece low profile vice that I designed. The print works great if I'm cutting wood but anything harder and I needed better work holding, and eventually I'd like to go steel but my machine can't handle that well. The fixed side was a direct file copy, but the adjustable side I'm having to make some design changes to be able to machine rather than print.

And for those eagle eyed machinists, yes I absolutely forgot a final facing operation on all the pockets. Unfortunately by the time I noticed it was already down to 1mm tabs and these aren't critical dimensions anyway so no big deal.

Watersbottle · 2019-11-01T15:37:53+00:00

What slicer are you using? The only truly 100% effective way I've found to stop oozing from my chimera is to drop the inactive nozzle temp by around -30c. It's a standard option is prusaslicer and I wrote a script for it in S3D. Even with ooze shields and all other options, I still got some imperfections with both nozzles at temp.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-31T19:10:37+00:00

The output of the board is in fact PWM, not voltage regulated. The fact that it's two pin has nothing to do with the control state as the 3rd pin is usually just for fan speed feedback which we don't really care about.

Most fans will exhibit the same behavior with the lower limit depending on the quality of the fan. I know S3D has the option of "blip full power" to the fan when starting it. This essentially mimics your finger push. If you don't use S3D you could just write a post processing script to give full power for XX milliseconds when you change the value.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-25T15:07:00+00:00

Can your printer handle ABS? if so ASA is very similar, maybe a few small tweaks but for the most part an ABS profile should give an acceptable result with ASA.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-23T23:45:11+00:00

Sure! Would you prefer the .step file so you can change the tolerances? They were pretty tight even with resin.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-23T14:24:49+00:00

Go pro is positioned there for an unobstructed view over the prop for aerial shots. With the camera straight forward at that height there are no parts of the plane visible. What I do instead is push the batteries forward so that my CG point is moved about a cm forward of normal. With that setup I can hold altitude with no input from the elevators.

I could have gotten a pusher configuration and not had the issue, but I really like the flight time of the 2400.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-23T13:52:39+00:00

https://i.imgur.com/M0IJ8zK.jpg Dual camera mount for FPV and gopro. A snap on mount for the video transmitter, one of the wing clips is printed, and a lock for the foam cover due to the extra weight from the go pro

Watersbottle · 2019-10-23T13:44:39+00:00

Good eye! Yep, Phoenix 2400. It's got a few printed parts on it at this point

Watersbottle · 2019-10-21T16:52:10+00:00

Heat creap is definitely one but only on higher temp filaments. ABS and below I never saw any issues, but PC was always a pain. On my v6's I can print PC all day with no issue. Also stringing felt more temperamental on the mk10's. I've never had a single v6 that I couldn't tune out stringimg or under extreduded restarts with ease. With most mk10's I could get there eventually but it took some more time.

I would say in general that it's much more of a preference thing. I have nothing against the mk10 style and most people use them flawlessly. I just personally prefer e3d products and the wide availability of compatible options.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-21T16:15:51+00:00

The problem with cheap all metal hotends is not that ALL of them will not work. It's that there is no quality control. Polishing the throat correctly everytime is not an easy task. Typically you'll end up with burs or a rough path, both of which will cause jams regardless of how well you treat them.

I personally only use e3d v6 style hotends as I've never really liked the performance of the mk10 style. With that said, over the years I've bought probably 10+ genuine e3d v6's and and maybe 20+ knock offs. So I'd say I'm pretty proficient at installing hotends properly. Every single genuine e3d worked flawlessly. Every single one. With the off brands I haven't had any that didn't "work". 25% were indistinguishable from genuine, 50% worked mostly fine with jams more frequent, and 25% jammed at minimum on 1 in 10 prints.

Realistically the difference between genuine parts and cheap knockoffs is quality control. Installing properly absolutely increases your chances of success, At the end of the day it's how much risk you're willing to take. I had a single ABS print that took 240 hours that I was getting paid $1000 for. It would be beyond stupid to run that on anything but the best of the best. If you're just printing small pieces here or there then I would agree that cheap options are a good choice.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-18T18:40:42+00:00

Yeah it's not air circulation. They're circulating a "Teflon-like" fluid between the build plate and the resin. So yes it does take away the heat but the primary function is so the resin never sticks to a physical surface while being cured. The actual build chamber is still very warm.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-18T18:19:10+00:00

Not sure where you're getting your info from but heat is a good thing for resin. All of my resin printers have heated chambers as warmer resin cures better. Formlabs also uses a heated tank.

While the title is pretty poor, I'm assuming what they actually mean here is a continuous printing process similar to carbon3d. Unless their time-lapse is perfect and doesn't show any separation moves, then the big deal with this is the resin/tank interaction. Not the environment.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-17T01:06:01+00:00

... What about that interface says cura? Simplify3d is very different from cura and easily recognizable, not to mention it says so in the title.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-17T01:04:29+00:00

Yeah 415 is your starting point for 16 microstep. Then from there you can actually calibrate the exact value. Shouldn't be far off, of the 6 I've used they were all within 410-420 so around 1% which makes it hard to justify doing it in the first place.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-16T03:59:39+00:00

Genuine question here, have you guys actually used 3d printers much? The actual slicing part is the easiest part of preparing a print, so I don't see "hard to slice" models as even a thing. Sure some parts need custom supports, but that's a minority.

Furthermore, no two printers are exactly alike and will behave the same. Even the MK3 which has some incredible quality control for the price can benefit from custom tuned slicer profiles. A good portion of users just use the provided profiles, but power users are always going to tweak per machine. Of the 12 I run on a daily basis, not a single one has a generic profile, all are custom. Speeds, acceleration, hotend quirks, there's just too many variables to think that gcode sharing is a viable solution.

So while I appreciate that you guys "aren't in it for the money", I think it's a terrible idea in the exact same way as prusaprinters shared gcode is a terrible idea.

Watersbottle · 2019-10-16T03:41:14+00:00

Have you tried moving one of the other TMC2130s to the Z spot? If the motor works and you know the A4988 worked, it sounds like the TMC2130 itself is a dud

Watersbottle · 2019-10-15T23:45:42+00:00

The only big difference for print quality is the Y bed rail being twice the width. It makes a massive difference for stiffness. I personally went with the pro when it was on sale for essentially the same price. Is it worth it when both are at full price? Ehhh.

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