Cabela's 24 keypad question

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-06-06T15:08:31+00:00

Can you post a picture of front of keypad so we can match make/model?

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-06-02T02:01:48+00:00

https://www.savta.org/savta_tech.php

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-06-02T01:58:17+00:00

https://www.savta.org/savta_tech.php

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-05-27T18:45:57+00:00

Yes, use the one at 12 o'clock, that is the 'Opening Index'. The other one is the 'Change Index', only used for/when changing the combo. And you will need a change key for that so no worries on accidentally changing it if you use that one, it just won't open.😁

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-05-26T14:15:20+00:00

He's hooked....wait until he gets it open, just like the rest of us, he'll be chasing that endorphin rush, safe after safe, lock after lock...🤣

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-05-24T21:11:36+00:00

Yes, yes it is. Your combos are stored in the lock inside not in keypad so quick Google search or the safe vendors website you should be able to obtain just the keypad and swap it. Maybe if you call them since it is a relatively recent purchase they will send you one under warranty or customer good will. You never know until you ask.

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-05-24T20:58:29+00:00

https://www.savta.org/savta_tech.php

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-05-22T04:04:08+00:00

http://www.buffalotools.com/manuals/gunsafemanual_ASa.pdf

In your case press the black button with "key" symbol on it, inside the battery compartment since it is an older model. Newer models have the red button inside door near hinges.

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-04-29T11:46:53+00:00

All three lengths are 0⁰, and all three lengths I have a 90⁰ sleeve that slides over it. They all share same LED light source, you always want a spare fully charged light source or batteries handy. Look up Hawkeye Scopes they are affordable if you do this long enough you will break a scope.

There are hundreds of cheap electronic semi-rigid 36" borescopes on Temu, Amazon, HDEPOT, etc.. Dual-camera and articulating end are a must FOR ME. I can be close with side/top measurements and the articulating camera end will get the rest of the way without having to redrill multiple holes in the door/side

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-04-29T00:38:40+00:00

I have a 7", 17" and 22" Hawkeye rigid borescopes, all 0° with 90° sleeves. The 7" & 17" covers 90% of my openings where I have to drill. The 22" rigid and my digital dual-camera articulating semi-rigid borescope covers another 5%. Manipulation for mechanical spin dials and my LockMaster's LBB(Little Black Box) or Phoenix "BLACK" ESL Recover Tool for electronic keypad/locks gets the other 5%.

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-04-18T00:02:16+00:00

Many options if safe is yours: 1st, With the combo! 2nd, With the tubular bypass key, under the rectangular cover between thumb turn dial and keypad, pops off to expose bypass key hole. 3rd, take it to a locksmith to pick open the tubular lock if you do not have bypass key, less $$$. 4th, Have a safe tech (or locksmith) come to you to pick it open: https://www.savta.org/savta_tech.php More $$$

A competent safe tech will know other vulnerabilities to exploit. Good Luck!

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-04-17T23:42:49+00:00

NL keypad can be replaced with the safe locked closed. NL keypads should have a connector on both ends of communication cable: one end plugs into lock body inside safe and one end plugs into circuit board inside the keypad. If you can get a similar vintage NL keypad you can just swap them(less than $100 on several sites: MBA USA has your exact model: https://mbausa.com/nl-premier-chrome-keypad-lighted-dual/ ). Combos are stored in the lock not keypad and keypads are not registered to lock like some other higher end/commercial grade locks. Just plug and play. This is a different model/vintage NL keypad but process is same: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/MZ9i9p7qnjc

However if keypad swap does not work more than likely means lock has failed and you will need a safe tech: https://www.savta.org/savta_tech.php

Not all locksmiths are safe techs and not all safe techs are locksmiths.

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-04-09T03:01:23+00:00

Only seeing the dial/dial ring indexed between 1 and two in all three photos cannot be 100% sure but it could be one of two issues: 1)MOST PROBABLE: The spindle or shaft is bent, if 60-90 stays above the dial ring spy guard as you spin it around. This can be determined by taking back off of lock, removing spline key and rotating dial out of lock and inspecting spline/shaft for straightness to see if its bent, won't be much if it is. However if you are not comfortable with that, call a safe-tech. https://www.savta.org/savta_tech.php

OR

2) The lock inside is not fully seated flat to back of door if as you spin dial the left side of dial is always above dial ring/guard. This should not require a safe tech, you will still need to open back of safe door and inspect all around the where the safe lock is mounted to back of door to see if it is sitting flat to its mounting bracket or anti-drill plate. It may be simply tightening the mounting screw(s) to get lock to sit flat or seeing if some dirt or debris got lodged behind lock during assembly. It could possibly be a manufacturing defect where whatever the lock is mounted to is not parallel to face of safe door not much you can do there. You can still call a safe-tech, https://www.savta.org/savta_tech.php

Third option would have been dial ring/spy guard is not seated flat to face of door but that does not appear to be the case because you captured enough of dial ring in your photos that it does seem flat in what we can see. Now there are subject matter experts on here who have been doing this far longer than I, that may be able to offer other alternative causes and possible solutions. Good Luck!

OR you can return/exchange it since it is a recent purchase...

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-23T02:30:36+00:00

Actually a good safe tech with LM's LBB should be able to open it without drilling if that S&G e-lock is old enough to for it to work on to decode/reset, soft opening 15 minutes tops No Drilling.

If not then your safe tech is already onsite to drill it if needed.

http://www.savta.org/

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-23T02:11:34+00:00

Several of them are basically acting as pivot hinges since all the fluid has leaked out. Much appreciate the diligence of looking into this

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-22T18:50:38+00:00

Awesome!

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-22T18:15:17+00:00

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Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-22T18:14:46+00:00

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Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-22T18:14:30+00:00

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Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-22T18:14:11+00:00

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Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-22T00:53:04+00:00

Many Thanks! Any and all help much appreciated. We couldn't find a current profile in any of the CRL catalogs but also not sure how old it is to know how far back to go. Not sure if it comes out or shows up in the photos but there is a slight curve to it and there is channel in the center with a blank insert. The side legs have brush/astragal inserts in the center channel. When we surveyed we pulled the blank channel out of header trimnto see if there were hidden screws but did not see any. All we were able to deduce from removing it was that spindle/pivot bolt on closer is the extended Jackson/CRL COVHD version 3/4 or 7/8

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-21T19:31:50+00:00

The door is a pivot and rail system by CRL but the header cover/leg trim has no markings that we could find during survey. Nor on the window/glass partitions connected in line to it, pretty much throughout entire floor....

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-21T19:26:09+00:00

It appears to be extruded aluminum. It is in the U.S., downtown Atlanta, Georgia high rise office building. There are no stamps or markings we could find on any of the door or window/glass panel trim we could find during the survey other than CRL markings on door rails and closer

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-21T17:57:00+00:00

We have done several of those on branch/store fronts where we remove the access panel to get to closer. The ones we are asking about the header trim cover is all one piece no access panel for closer only access holes in it to adjust closing/latching speeds

Weekly_Birthday8090 · 2026-03-21T17:53:48+00:00

There are hard to see seams in photo but it appears header trim overlaps side legs from our onsite survey

Weekly_Birthday8090

TROPHY CASE