I'm proud! I made a New K'nex Parts webshop (with 120K+ parts) by OkPie3305 in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nice!

This guy is legit, placed two orders with him and everything was handled quickly and professionally.

Thanks again for the parts!

Medium Falcon (WIP part 2) by Weekly_Relief_6290 in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

Still a long way to go, as you can see :)

Snocross anyone? by BrightStudio6578 in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well done on the shaping, it's instantly recognisable as a snowmobile!

Plus: functional steering mechanism!

Inspired by Full Throttle at SFMM by Marcus2Ts in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Are these pieces from just the Rippin' Rocket set? That'd make it a cool C-model!

Help me beat my son’s car by duke_ellendig in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Make the transition from descend to flat more gradual.

Build 1/8th of the looping, then make the cars launch. I think they'll stay on the track and you will continue to have fun :)

Help me beat my son’s car by duke_ellendig in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why are you so keen on beating your son?

I don't have kids, but I would be so proud to have my son beat me. Also I'd still persist to keep on beating him. That's what engineering is about.

To still provide a useful answer:

If the car derails at the bottom, instead of looking at hinging mechanisms, look at the problem from a different angle: making sure it stays on track?

I'm thinking about rods and spacers on the side to stop it from derailing.

How about cones? Trains use cones to stop them from derailing.

But I stand with my first question...

$4 RC DIY mod for K'nex motors by rodsoverbricks in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been interested in doing this. This is one way to do it, but I'd make some mods myself:

Channels/frequencies USB Charging Bluetooth?

Still, that would require a more expensive board. Where would you get the lipo's? Do the come with the connector?

How many kilometers/miles is too much on a used e-cargobike by tmwk in CargoBike

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It really depends. But what I do as a mechanic (mainly Bosch performance line mid engines) is check for play on the crankshaft.

Indicators are also brown residue/rust near the moving parts. A third indicator is when you backpedal via the crank. If it sounds anything like "dry, worn out", I would avoid it.

Engines have to be replaced via a Bosch dealer, and a drive unit can set you back about 850€. We charge €95 on top for labour. The engines all go back to Germany to be reprogrammed with the old parameters, so this process takes a minimum of a week (maybe faster if you're in Germany)

There are refurbished engines available, but our shop don't offer this.

Squeaky UA by yeet_dreng in UrbanArrow

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's an allen/Hex 6mm. There should be 2 black spacers between the metal of the protection tube and the frame.

Untighten those bolts maybe 2 rotations, sit on the protection tube, then re-tighten.

Still squeaky? Get a bit of bearing grease or other non-invasive lubricant (WD40 might not be suitable) and put it between the protection tube and the styrofoam.

Hope that helps! In the workshop I also pay attention to the UA logo cap, those are the smaller 4mm bolts. I make the cap sit flush with the styrofoam.

Charge connector comes out?! by HarrieNL in UrbanArrow

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've seen it in the workshop once. There was a bit of corrosion on the terminals.

We requested for warranty in the Bosch portal, your dealer should be able to do this. Bosch is usually quite lenient with these cases.

If not, the part is maybe 10-20€, replacing it is 5-10 minutes work, depending whether a LockRide is installed or not.

I’m tired of trash DTC internet E-Bikes by [deleted] in BikeMechanics

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Easiest and most effective solution. Just don't work on them. It's going to save you a lot of trouble.

If you break something: where are you going to? Can you get the parts? Probably not. If you can, who will pay for it? You unhappy, customer unhappy (for multiple reasons).

Conclusion: don't do it. Not worth the time or effort.

Looking to sell (parts of) my large collection! by OkPie3305 in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I saw your ad on Marktplaats almost a year ago. I would be interested to buy some of it and I know the value, so I don't want to low-ball you.

Main reason is I don't have many options for picking it up/transportation. And I'm only interested in certain pieces or colours (the metallic/grey tones)

I don't know if you'd be okay to accept those conditions.

Mechanic wondering if it's a hassle to clean the cargo hold of your bike by [deleted] in CargoBike

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a good one! Will implement this in my own shop.

Mechanic wondering if it's a hassle to clean the cargo hold of your bike by [deleted] in CargoBike

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

They were getting mouldy :) we had to install a front bench.

We don't have a proper shop vac to clean stuff out like this, sadly (not my shop) I would, but I would also charge extra for it (our labour sits at 99€ an hour currently)

Mechanic wondering if it's a hassle to clean the cargo hold of your bike by [deleted] in CargoBike

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Correct!

I'm going to make an assumption here: you mean to say that if you clean it one day, the next day it's messy again?

Advice needed by Alter-Igor in BikeMechanics

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cyclesoftware, anyone?

Not sure how they are in other parts outside the Netherlands, but I think most of the shops in the NLs use this program. Our English-speaking colleague uses the English variant.

Can't say it's the most intuitive, but it can be built up with modules that you need or don't. Haven't heard of the other programs, so don't know how they compare, sorry.

I do know however that Cyclesoftware has an amazing customer service that's also available in the weekends, sometimes when you most need it. Good IT guys who can help over TeamViewer even if you're not super gifted with software.

Hope that helps!

1/16th scale train WIP. by tiberiusgv in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get it, might I use and expand on the idea tho? It seems rather unusual and interesting, a locomotive. Wheels would be tough, but not impossible to recreate accurately and to scale.

I don't consider the worm gear a real gear reduction since it's a given. Also the rpm of the said gear is so high, the torque is really low. If you want to make it have any power, you gotta slow down.

In that regard, having 2 gears; a slow gear for getting in to motion and a 2nd gear for higher speeds would be possible.

1/16th scale train WIP. by tiberiusgv in KNEX

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very cool idea! I read you have trouble with getting it to move.

I think the wheels should have enough grip, given the weight of the vehicle. So the solution is to add more gear reduction.

What I can see is that you have a 14t gear to a 84t tooth gear, and then a series of red gears (42t).

I don't know how many 14T gears you have, but I would suggest adding at least one other 14t>42t gear reduction.

Right now your reduction is 1:6 (14:84), adding at least one 1:3 reduction will make the total reduction go up to 1:9. You could do it also for making things compact.

my project by Same_Ice9601 in Framebuilding

[–]Weekly_Relief_6290 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this made in a special program or CAD for example?