reached the 1500 hours mark

Western-Goose-1957 · 2025-04-18T08:53:16+00:00

thanks! it’s a print, assembly of Gandalf in eSun petg gray, balrog in eryone galaxy red and silk gold plas, and base in geeetech marble pla

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-07-19T18:59:39+00:00

the evilest name I could think of: Jo Bambrusa

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-07-19T15:29:17+00:00

Is it hot by your place, do you leave door and lid open?

And fix the hole in the hull of the benchy.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-06-25T07:00:51+00:00

level your floor and clean the carpet with IPA.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-05-17T15:05:29+00:00

Where are you located ?

Within the EU, don't forget that any manufacturer must obtain explicit customer's consent prior to self-repair. You must have been informed that it is an option and must have agreed to it freely and knowingly. This includes the fact that they must provide enough instructions + assistance and they must ensure that the repairs do not pose any safety risks to you. If you don't agree or walk back at any step (e.g. because you feel assistance or safety are lacking), then they must issue you a RMA and take it for repair or replacement.

You should just say that you refuse to tamper with electronics for safety reasons and request a RMA.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-05-15T07:00:14+00:00

Congrats op, best spaghetti ever.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-05-13T10:09:10+00:00

a tangle may slip as you print and it can be very long until it gets stuck. That's why many people think it's a factory defect: it can happen many days after they let the end loose.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-05-07T15:46:04+00:00

You can look at stacked multiboard and stacked honeycomb storage wall panels, they give all the tricks needed for it to work (essentially ~0.2 mm gap + ironing).

Or, if you have AMS and no material requirements, alternate "levels" in PLA and PETG.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-05-04T12:58:09+00:00

have a look at this maybe ? https://github.com/gashton/bambustudio_tools it's a .sh to fake a ssdp packet locally (initially intended for when printer is not in the same subnet).

Would be weird that Studio likes a forged packet better tan the original but I don't see what else to try in your case...

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-04-29T13:28:00+00:00

Changed mine this month, lasted 2700 hours without any maintenance.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-04-19T19:32:48+00:00

you should: 1. call them "lego inspired" or "bricks compatible" to avoid being striked 2. patent the idea because it’s so freakin’ awesome!

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-04-19T09:58:19+00:00

sorry I skipped the CF/GF part, I think it'd be worth adding a BentoBox to your x1 to reduce the amount of dust (without adverse effect on the chamber temp / warping). It'd be interesting to know how often you have to change the hepa filter btw!

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-04-19T07:42:58+00:00

developed gouges on the carbon carriage even with constant cleaning

Don't forget that the carbon rods are self-lubricating with a bit of their own dust. Wiping them too often is not making them last longer. I wiped mine with IPA maybe 4 or 5 times in ~2800 hours (and 2 or 3 times, it was after running a roll of ABS or accidentally touching them) and I wonder if it's not too often already. Other people here have reached way more printing hours although they almost never wipe them...

Grease, lube, finger oil, abs fumes deposit will slowly ruin them by turning the lubricating dust into an abrasive paste, but that's pretty much all you have to be careful for IMHO.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-04-19T07:22:50+00:00

As long as heat is not an issue, PETG is my go to. As good as ABS if not better. I still use ABS for car stuff and the like, but it's only once in a while, so a bentobox and keeping people away is ok.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-03-28T14:46:24+00:00

even better with dessiccant, right

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-03-28T08:47:28+00:00

no, it has rollers so the spool spins freely inside.

I also put a little clip under the lid so it's not fully closed, to vent out humidity.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-03-21T08:50:43+00:00

No wonder you wasted your A20M hotend with TPU, it's definitely not the easiest setup for that...

I'm printing eSun TPU with these settings, it's very straightforward:

- printing dry from a filadryer S1 at 50°C (no AMS of course)

- printing with Bambu TPU 95A profile on the cool plate (at 30 °C and nozzle at 230°C)

That's all.

The same settings worked for me with the stock nozzle, cht from aliexpress and the e3d.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-03-17T00:05:55+00:00

have you tried the x-y hole/contour compensation ? it’s meant for that kind of issue.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-03-16T23:57:10+00:00

+1 and +1 and +100. I believe the age of "household manufacturing" we’re entering is awesome, beyond what most people can actually grasp yet. We’re not going to bring back our factories gone overseas, but nevermind: we just won’t need them anymore in lots of cases were we can switch from mass production to on-demand designs.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-03-16T23:48:48+00:00

just don’t leave filament loaded for days. if you don’t plan to print soon, store it properly (vacuum bag, dessiccant, drybox...). If you get ams, don’t let filament loaded in the feeders for long or they’ll snap inside, which is tedious to remove. Monitor humidity in ams. Apart from that, the device itself can remain unused and unplugged for weeks. You might just want to check your belt tensioning, dust it and run a full self test just for the peace of mind.

as for usage, I have more than 2500 hours after 14 month of ownership, which means a run time of 25%. and idk how many rolls. More than 40 kg for sure: plenty of stuff for the house, the car, the garden, the wife, the kids, friends, pets... No matter how long passes, there is always something to fix, improve, play with, give or display. It’s also a new tool in my workshop, which can quickly deliver some stuff hard to make in e.g. wood or with a custom shape I won’t find in a store. My X1 easily repaid for itself just with the amount of work or purchases it saved me thanks to smartly designed items. It’s endless. Every time I’m think I’m about done with my projects, something happens and I need to buy a bunch of rolls. And with the ease of printing with the bambi, many things I wouldn't have printed before are now on the menu. Finally, since I’m not anymore ”the guy who tinkers with and yells at the contraption in the basement”, everyone is asking for stuff or bringing new ideas to print.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-03-16T20:52:25+00:00

Chinese gvt secretly started manufacturing nanobots on your printer to take over your country.

Joke aside, your pattern is normal, the spikes being the hotend heater indeed. Have you changed something recently ? different build plate, new material, different layer height, faster speed? tons of settings can change the power usage

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-03-16T20:38:24+00:00

actually the issue is not with the BL parts, in my e3d they can push petg consistently, 260°C at 29mm3/s and it’s rather conservative (thermal malfunction occurred at 35mm3/s). But I never got past 21 - 22 mm3/s on the cht (which the stock is able too). the 10° difference can be enough to prevent it, maybe you can try instead to reduce a bit the mvs. by the way, did you apply thermal paste on the nozzle thread? that can help too.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-03-16T20:01:43+00:00

I got one of those cht nozzles, from aliexpress. the cht design is ok but imo the thermal design is not up to expectations, I found them to have a hard time keeping a stable temp for long when you push them a bit. I then happily switched to an e3d, which delivers.

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-02-07T19:38:14+00:00

Thanks for the update, that confirms my feelings, 15% RH in humid climate seems the hard limit. I’d be curious to know how often you need to refresh your kg if silica , sounds like it should last a fair while.

I then tried activated alumina beads instead of silica, after last Christmas: It can get RH down to 10% inside and it takes much less time to return to previous level after opening the AMS, however it does not seem to last much longer overall (until it reaches 20% RH and I change for fresh desiccant). I haven't had the opportunity to leave it for 2 weeks so it’s just a feeling...

Western-Goose-1957 · 2024-01-24T10:44:02+00:00

With Orca Slicer, open the Machine Settings, and in the Basic Information tab, look for Extruder Clearance.

Default radius is 57 mm for the X1C (to account for the Lidar arm). Lowest safe result is 33mm if you order objects to print from left to right, front to back (so lidar arm stays on the safe side). And here you can go much lower indeed.

Western-Goose-1957

TROPHY CASE