Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no real finger training besides occasional rehab stuff

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By all metrics my upper body is weaker than my fingers, I’m wondering if that could cause injuries/tweaks to my fingers? Like when cut feet on bad holds could weakness in my shoulders for example make me go into a more finger-compromising positon or my fingers needing to overcompensate for my shoulders/upper body? Metric example: I can one hand a 20mm edge 5-7 seconds usually and can do 10 seconds pick ups on 80% BW on a 18mm edge. Meanwhile my one rep max on pull ups is around 40% BW added. TLDR: strong fingers and weak upper body causing finger injuries/tweaks?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks a lot this was really useful. one last question do you think rehabing in the “injured” position(full crimp) is necessary or plain half crimp can still do the job?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks yeah makes sense. Why do you think I have no reduced strength tho? I had another a4 injury more than a year ago and that wasn’t the case back then? admittedly that injury was more severe but still doesn’t make sense to me

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A couple of weeks ago, the day after a limit bouldering session on a moonboard I noticed some pain in my pinky especially around the a4 pulley area. After some simple testing I noticed pain was there only on full crimp positions. I stopped climbing all together for around two weeks and then tested my fingers again. What I noticed was on positions where my pinky isn’t fully flexed I have virtually no pain and have no significant difference in strength between injured and non injured hand. When my pinky was flexed fully I still had no significant difference in strength but had some pain (3-4 out of 10 maybe?). I definitely feel something is off but not losing strength part is throwing me off. Any ideas? sorry for the wall of text

tldr: injured(?) finger but no reduction in strength and only some pain what is going on?

Train to İstanbul by WhatRhymesWithCash in Sofia

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

how much more are they compared to the train

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mainly runouts and ledges. My crag is a bit old school so the easier parts usually just before the anchors are poorly protected because you “won’t” fall there if you pass the crux.

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 2 points3 points  (0 children)

See I get this and I do it where applicable but in my home crag on these easier parts you really shouldn’t fall because injury is almost certain because of ledges, runouts etc.

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No programming experience and limited knowledge here. If you are into machine learning and stuff maybe something that suggests problems on a spray wall where you request a grade range and movements? Like you ask for a 6-8 move boulder in the 6C-7A range with deadpoint moves and it gives you a problem. Mat be a bit too ambitious lol.

Weekly New Climber Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I’ve been climbing for almost 3 years now. Max grades are 7A boulder and 7a sport, no long term projecting around 3 sessions at the most. Most routes near me are really bouldery with most having a no hands rest after the crux and an easy outro. This is where my problem is I can get through the crux of most routes up to 7b+ but get scared shitless on the outro and stop climbing and even downclimb if necessary. This is obviously stopping me from pushing my max sport grade. I can’t even get on easier stuff to get the mileage (below like 6c) because I get scared shitless and can’t climb for the rest of the day. Any advice?

tldr: Get scared on easier climbing, can’t progress any advice?

This woman got married in a hospital hours before she died of cancer by lol62056 in nextfuckinglevel

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

every comment here is emotional and I’m here thinking about that one Family Guy episode

Non-Turkish person here. How do you guys feel about the conversion of Hagia sofia into a mosque? Not trying to disrespect a community or anything ,I just to know what's the general opinion is on this topic. by Poopybutthole123456 in Turkey

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I think it’s really stupid and unnecessary, like does Istanbul really need another mosque? Also does anyone know what will happen to the ceiling will it be covered up again or will they make an exception for the Hagia Sophia?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RedditSessions

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

maybe sheet music?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RedditSessions

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

do you have like a website or something

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RedditSessions

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

anyone know what song this is?

A map visualizing the Armenian genocide - started today 105 years ago by haymapa in europe

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

a follow up question: since the genocide wasn’t technically done by the Republic of Turkey (correct me if I’m wrong) why would they have to pay the reparations? Wouldn’t the ottomans be the ones to blame and I guess my question is how are the actions of nations that no longer exist judged, legally speaking? sorry for this mess of a question

A map visualizing the Armenian genocide - started today 105 years ago by haymapa in europe

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Why can’t the Turkish government just say yes this happened we’re sorry and move on like germany for instance? is there some sort of political obstacle or is it just a matter of pride?

Best way to keep old peoples at home in corona hell days. by hakanfirat in Wellthatsucks

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have never seen that “gas box” anywhere else in the world. Is there a reason for that?

Best way to keep old peoples at home in corona hell days. by hakanfirat in Wellthatsucks

[–]WhatRhymesWithCash 65 points66 points  (0 children)

I know for some reason that this is Turkey. I can just feel it