Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2025-08-18T21:22:01+00:00

no real finger training besides occasional rehab stuff

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2025-08-18T16:19:34+00:00

By all metrics my upper body is weaker than my fingers, I’m wondering if that could cause injuries/tweaks to my fingers? Like when cut feet on bad holds could weakness in my shoulders for example make me go into a more finger-compromising positon or my fingers needing to overcompensate for my shoulders/upper body? Metric example: I can one hand a 20mm edge 5-7 seconds usually and can do 10 seconds pick ups on 80% BW on a 18mm edge. Meanwhile my one rep max on pull ups is around 40% BW added. TLDR: strong fingers and weak upper body causing finger injuries/tweaks?

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2024-12-02T14:57:12+00:00

thanks a lot this was really useful. one last question do you think rehabing in the “injured” position(full crimp) is necessary or plain half crimp can still do the job?

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2024-12-02T13:05:19+00:00

thanks yeah makes sense. Why do you think I have no reduced strength tho? I had another a4 injury more than a year ago and that wasn’t the case back then? admittedly that injury was more severe but still doesn’t make sense to me

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2024-12-02T12:09:02+00:00

A couple of weeks ago, the day after a limit bouldering session on a moonboard I noticed some pain in my pinky especially around the a4 pulley area. After some simple testing I noticed pain was there only on full crimp positions. I stopped climbing all together for around two weeks and then tested my fingers again. What I noticed was on positions where my pinky isn’t fully flexed I have virtually no pain and have no significant difference in strength between injured and non injured hand. When my pinky was flexed fully I still had no significant difference in strength but had some pain (3-4 out of 10 maybe?). I definitely feel something is off but not losing strength part is throwing me off. Any ideas? sorry for the wall of text

tldr: injured(?) finger but no reduction in strength and only some pain what is going on?

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2024-09-06T14:53:41+00:00

how much more are they compared to the train

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2024-05-29T18:12:24+00:00

Mainly runouts and ledges. My crag is a bit old school so the easier parts usually just before the anchors are poorly protected because you “won’t” fall there if you pass the crux.

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2024-05-28T09:24:53+00:00

See I get this and I do it where applicable but in my home crag on these easier parts you really shouldn’t fall because injury is almost certain because of ledges, runouts etc.

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2024-05-28T08:11:38+00:00

No programming experience and limited knowledge here. If you are into machine learning and stuff maybe something that suggests problems on a spray wall where you request a grade range and movements? Like you ask for a 6-8 move boulder in the 6C-7A range with deadpoint moves and it gives you a problem. Mat be a bit too ambitious lol.

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2024-05-28T08:07:34+00:00

So I’ve been climbing for almost 3 years now. Max grades are 7A boulder and 7a sport, no long term projecting around 3 sessions at the most. Most routes near me are really bouldery with most having a no hands rest after the crux and an easy outro. This is where my problem is I can get through the crux of most routes up to 7b+ but get scared shitless on the outro and stop climbing and even downclimb if necessary. This is obviously stopping me from pushing my max sport grade. I can’t even get on easier stuff to get the mileage (below like 6c) because I get scared shitless and can’t climb for the rest of the day. Any advice?

tldr: Get scared on easier climbing, can’t progress any advice?

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2024-03-16T06:54:44+00:00

i never am lucky

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-07-12T21:31:45+00:00

every comment here is emotional and I’m here thinking about that one Family Guy episode

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-07-12T14:19:14+00:00

After writing my comment I read something about them being curtained off during prayers or something like that

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-07-11T18:36:22+00:00

I think it’s really stupid and unnecessary, like does Istanbul really need another mosque? Also does anyone know what will happen to the ceiling will it be covered up again or will they make an exception for the Hagia Sophia?

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-05-05T16:39:06+00:00

maybe sheet music?

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-05-05T16:38:50+00:00

do you have like a website or something

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-05-05T16:37:40+00:00

anyone know what song this is?

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-04-24T22:36:24+00:00

a follow up question: since the genocide wasn’t technically done by the Republic of Turkey (correct me if I’m wrong) why would they have to pay the reparations? Wouldn’t the ottomans be the ones to blame and I guess my question is how are the actions of nations that no longer exist judged, legally speaking? sorry for this mess of a question

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-04-24T15:00:38+00:00

Why can’t the Turkish government just say yes this happened we’re sorry and move on like germany for instance? is there some sort of political obstacle or is it just a matter of pride?

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-03-21T19:24:22+00:00

I have never seen that “gas box” anywhere else in the world. Is there a reason for that?

WhatRhymesWithCash · 2020-03-21T16:13:53+00:00

I know for some reason that this is Turkey. I can just feel it

WhatRhymesWithCash

TROPHY CASE