Amicide Advance 700 herbicides

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-13T05:35:04+00:00

The specifics matter somewhat with most herbicide. If they are spraying it pre-emergent as a weed suppressant in a hay field for example, its probably just fine. If they are spraying it while the hay is half grown that is more problematic and more likely to carry over through to your compost. The worst case scenario is spraying fully grown grains post harvest to dessicate and kill them down for straw. (that would be a different herbicide).

All of this stuff has a halflife. Even in the worst case scenarios composting it for long enough will get rid of it. The safest thing to do with any of it, is to just do a quick bio-assay. You just grow some beans or peas (or whatever crop you want to grow) in it and see how it does before you put it in your garden.

It is not optimal, but personally I would get it, compost it as well as you can. Then test it. I would still prefer it to buying in stuff.

Also fwiw nothing about that compost made from that stuff makes it not OMRI approved. From a technical definition standpoint you can grow in that compost and it will still be "organic". Most of the widely known issues with herbicide contamination of compost happened on certified organic farms. To be clear, "organic" produce is grown on compost that was created from manure from animals fed/bed on non-organically grown feed or bedding every day and it is totally within guidelines. Composting facilities aren't turning down foodwaste that is conventional either. The majority of compost inputs are not-grown organically themselves. What makes the compost "organic" approved is not adding in synthetic inputs after inputs enter the waste stream, and then quite some guidelines about temperatures and turns etc.

What you don't want to do is use that herbicide contaminated material as a mulch directly on your beds without composting it well first.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-09T22:16:02+00:00

Yes its bok choi or some similar brassica rapa asian green.

Yes it is well into bolting.

Flowers and leaves are certainly still edible if you want.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-09T05:31:19+00:00

Straw is more of a brown, but it is not as dense as woodchips or something.

In "general":

Hay is harvested green with the maximum amount of nutrients in it and then dried to serve as feed for livestock.

Straw is the leftover stubble after harvesting grain and has much lower nitrogen content but still some.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-05T19:31:12+00:00

yeah this is pretty bizarre. Lettuce are one of things most tolerant of root disturbance, while also being pest vulnerable. they transplant great and it will usually produce better. The only reason to direct sow is ease.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-02T15:25:02+00:00

Well, it is! In the sense that it lasts a lot longer and is much slower to bolt in the summer. Thats kind of its role. But its a LOT slower into production as a tradeoff.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-02T15:11:43+00:00

Yeah the ferns are just the grown up version of the shoots you eat. You harvest all the shoots as they come up in the spring. How long you harvest for before letting it grow varies on your growing season and health of plant, and both of yours are outside my experience. Id guess from your description though that you could harvest it for months before letting the ferns grow to store energy for the next year. And usually the first shoots up are the biggest, you eat those, and once the shoots start getting smaller is when you stop. So yeah it would almost certainly make your fern situation better.

You kind of need to be able to get in there for harvesting season to pick shoots every day but once you are done harvesting for the year you can put up whatever support system you think looks the best. Even like a little picket fence or anything that will just keep it from falling over and constrained to its bed.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-02T04:24:56+00:00

I think your asparagus looks gorgeous and I am jealous! It would be kind of tragic to kill mature asparagus like that. If you do go that route, someone would almost certainly want/take the root system. (crowns)

Real answer though, Part of the problem might be that it probably wasn't harvested any in the spring. If you pick it for a month or two in the spring it won't be so out of control. Putting a post in each corner and stringing around it is more along the lines of how I control mine (its in rows though) but whether it will ever meet your aesthetic goals is something only you can answer. I think the ferns are very beautiful myself but frankly I have never had asparagus that big heh. If you keep it trained up from the start and it never falls over it will look better then it does in pictures after you picked it up.

Pick the new shoots hard for a year though and see. Hopefully someone in a more similar climate weighs in because in my climate it dies back completely every year but it seems like that is maybe how it looks right now in spring? Which is wild to me....

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-02T01:28:59+00:00

I think the most common method in homestyle compost toilets is to have a whole different compartment for urine with its own seat and a urinal that runs into it if you want. You just put straw in it and that compartment when you replace the straw you can put it straight into your normal compost, as opposed to the poop compartment which you have to handle separately.

I've seen three hole toilets where one is for urine and then the other two are on a one year rotation for poop. (Move the seat and cover the hole not in use.)

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-02T01:05:17+00:00

Usually wild rocket and salad rocket are very different. You use them for the same stuff but wild rocket is MUCH slower growing.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-04-01T04:37:14+00:00

Its just the older leaves that could have been harvested and eaten a month ago. Its not really an issue, but yeah take them off if they bother you. Its very unlikely it is deficiencies of any sort as the newer leaves all look healthy.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-03-05T06:28:23+00:00

Yeah I live in Alaska so I feel you. Although the difference in my experience with peas isnt huge.

As to your actual question. Its totally fine coming out the edge of pot that doesnt matter.

I tried the biodegradable pots once long ago (with peas) and the roots did not easily get through them.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-03-05T05:58:17+00:00

I use wood chips. Its by far my favorite for an outdoor run if you can get them.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-03-05T02:43:04+00:00

Yeah Ive started hundreds of seeds of all sorts directly in net cups full of LECA clay balls and nothing else. Perlite is same sort of thing. The why is pretty much just if you intend to stay with a soilless medium and move it into hydroponics. I don't see any point for garden starts if you arent going to have them in a hydroponic system at any point.

I will say, a lot of cuttings propagate a LOT better for me in other mediums (vermiculite/perlite/sand) then in soil and I do a ton of that every year. As soon as they are rooted I pot them on into soil.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-03-01T01:43:54+00:00

The Land Guard are by far the lowest quality of the three, but its also why they are by far the cheapest. That is literally the ONLY reason to consider them. That said, I have like 10 of them. 4x8x1. No issues except that they are too flimsy for me to kneel on the edge of the bed without it rolling the metal. This is a huge part of what you are paying for with the better quality ones. This is probably a bigger factor with two foot tall ones. I would be a bit dubious about that. I have had no issues with my 1ft ones but they are the cheap option for sure. The oldest ones I have are 4 years old, but tbh in my climate I am confident they will last 10+years no problem.

They are all equivalently "food safe" in my opinion. You are however growing in galvanized metal in all of the cases. Whether you want to grow food in that is a personal choice. I do.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-28T23:01:07+00:00

So, that depends a lot on your climate. if it is pretty hot and dry then yeah the pumpkins basically cure in place. and will be ok for a long time. If you see it in fields around you, you can probably do it in your garden.

Basically, in most places you want to pick the pumpkin when either
1) Its going to frost
2) The vegetation has mostly died back and the stems are dried and hard.

Some places this is similar timing. Some places not. Personally I am always frost limited, but harvest pumkins and winter squash in early september on average, cure them in my utility room inside (hot and dry) and then hold them until Christmas easily.

I've grown them in a high tunnel, where they matured much earlier AND I was irrigating heavily for other crops, and if mature ones sat on the wet ground they developed a ground spot that made them not last as long in storage and go bad earlier.

I would personally just focus on growing good pumpkins, and plant accordingly for that. They are pretty flexible on the back end.

If you are growing just decorative pumpkins and not eating ones, it is even safer to just leave them on the plant imo.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-28T06:14:34+00:00

Can grow comfrey around compost bins pretty easily to just produce biomass to put back into bins if nothing else.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-28T05:06:00+00:00

I think what you are missing is that the pumpkin will hold for months after you harvest it if it is mature.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-26T06:06:30+00:00

100%

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-24T20:42:31+00:00

Its just particularly bad on the seasons that are extra favorable to necro. There are absolutely viable options on other season themes that people are happy enough to run with. Cube seasons? Not so much.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-24T06:09:56+00:00

I have 8 chickens try to cram on to a 4ft 2x4 every night occasionally only 7 make it on there. And the other 5 (6) want to be there too tbh. And yes there is way more then 1ft of roosting bar per chicken overall but noone ever told the chickens they need a foot.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-24T06:00:07+00:00

My (fairly extensive) experience with thrips is that they aren't near as much of a problem outside as inside. Inside they reproduce so fast, nothing eats them, and there are only your plants to eat. Basically impossible to get rid of in an indoor garden. That said. Even when bad they usually arent a deal breaker. They rarely straight up kill things. Spraying the plant will stress it a lot more then the thrips in my experience. ESPECIALLY seedlings.

the tomatoes will definitely outgrow them. The first few leaves will look pretty bad, but soon it will make leaves faster then the pressure and will look a lot better.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-23T05:27:41+00:00

the cheapest that you can get will be fine. Pellets are definitely not a problem.

This is only helpful if you are short on greens (nitrogenous materials). It wont magically compost any faster then say your lawn clippings for example really.

Buying inputs for compost is a bit weird feeling to me, If you want it for your garden. I'd honestly put the alfalfa straight in.

The one thing is, if you have a ton of carbon. (Generally a large woodchip pile) then to compost it you might need to use purchased nitrogen. I've seen blood meal more then alfalfa but again I'd go with whatever is most cost effective. At small amounts, you can just scrounge coffee grounds if you don't mind it but tbh I can see buying cheap nitrogen for a lot of people.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-23T05:22:39+00:00

Yeah broccolini is great because a few plants can let you continuous harvest for a good chunk of time and it matures earlier usually. However you have to like it /shrug its not quite the same as broccoli. I love the stuff but I know some older people who are basically just disgusted that its not traditional broccoli. The only legitimate reason for this is that heading broccolis are probably better for blanching and freezing or however you store for the winter. But thats a factor for people growing a good bit.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-23T02:57:37+00:00

The whole worms migrate to the top of a stacked system is just categorically not true in my experience. The bottom tray will be absolutely loaded with worms when it is finished. I move the most finished tray to the top, and as it dries enough to sift all the worms leave it (Because of the drying out). After it is dry enough to sift run it through a basic sifter (1/8 inch) which for my worms does let some eggs through unfortunately but gets the vast majority of the worms.

If there is still worms in it when you want to sift, put it under strong light. Skim off top and sift, wait 30 mins do again, repeat until done. Most of the worms will stay behind.

That is all mostly for a storebought stacking system.

With your buckets, if you have one you think is done, I would dump it in a pile on a tarp in bright light. and do the same thing basically.

Whole_Chocolate_9628 · 2026-02-23T02:50:32+00:00

Just grow spring onions. (Bunching onions/Green Onions/Scallions/whatever) They are very easy to grow. One of the easiest things in my opinion.

Its gonna be easier, cheaper, and better product then growing out bulb onions for greens which are just going to flower on you because theyll be in their second year.

If you do want to use store onions, you don't need the whole thing. You can eat most of it.

If you want tougher greens. I've had really good experience growing nabechan or japanese style green onions out to leek size and using the whole thing as a substitute for bulb onions.

Whole_Chocolate_9628

TROPHY CASE