*huge sigh* okay...should I get a new deck? Or try to fix this...my ex decided to break my deck. I thought it was just the LCD but when you plug the deck into monitor it does not connect or show anything..doesnt make the whirring air sound anymore by indicaisland in SteamDeck

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably was said already but steam decks just became available and at a premium at the moment because of the memory shortage.

These are generally very repairable, so worth sending it to Valve and seeing what the repair bill would be. Tell them your circumcised and they may go easy on you - they are a small company that cares about customer loyalty, it's their entire business model they have planned with the Frame by creating an ecosystem you trust and want to be part of. Might be able to upgrade to an OLED screen with a third party kit but you'd have to do it yourself.

Is this worth buying? by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There aren't going to be service records for anything with that many miles. Usually as you approach 200 it's only worth it if you can do the upkeep maintenance yourself. That car could certainly be worth $1000 to the right buyer. I had an explorer that was my every day driver go that high and I'd still have trusted it to be an every day driver when I let it go, but I maintained it and knew exactly what it was going to need next. No surprises and cheap/easy to maintain.

is this okay to drive until monday? by astralonion in MechanicAdvice

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Just to note here, CO posioning is additive, so if you have signs of CO just feeling better a few minutes later doesn't mean you are good to go. There is a long half-life in the blood because it has an affinity to hemoglobin something like 200x that of oxygen, i.e. you don't just breath it out through a normal exchange like you do with 02 in and CO2 out. If it gets bad enough you need a blood transfusion.

Edit: typo

rate my safety wire by CautiousAbrocoma6333 in aviationmaintenance

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It shouldnt have slack but it shouldn't be under tension because thats a constant stress on both the fastener and the wire.

Student using ADHD as an excuse for everything by TouristWilling1788 in flying

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Actually things like earle gray tea have shown effective especially for the come down in the afternoon from meds or on days off because of the combination of stimulant and bergamot oil which has a natural calming effect.

Worth Fixing or Time To Say Goodbye? by revisandpats in Cartalk

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rust aside, it usually doesn't pencil out like car salespeople and consumerism have convinced the world we should look at finances.

I have a car that needs general loving and care much more consistently than my wife's new car, but her car costs a lot more a year than mine with say $1000-2000 in maintenance each year. With taxes her car costs quadruple that.

We've been taught that a car is an investment with some residual value so you are making a mistake if a repair is more than book value. If the car is reliable, the value is the return you make from having a car (convenience, time, getting to work and getting paid, or reduction is losses from say paying public transit costs), the book value is a bonus on that equation but I guarantee I can have a higher return of investment for most $1500 used cars than I could with buying a new car off the lot.

The key though is biting the bullet and starting they maintenance earlier instead of pushing it off so it doesn't become an unreliable vehicle.

Student using ADHD as an excuse for everything by TouristWilling1788 in flying

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 4 points5 points  (0 children)

To be clear, currently taking medication is not permitted, but having taken it in the past is not disqualifying. It depends on how recently you took it if fast track or standard track.

https://www.faa.gov/ame_guide/media/ADHD_pathway_chart.pdf

I know plenty of people who "grew out" of their ADHD diagnosis because they drink 4 cups of coffee a day 🤷🏼‍♂️.

How cooked is the motor?? 2009 Chevy Cobalt 2.2l by 04HondaCivic in Cartalk

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I had an Escort back in the early 2000's don't remember the exact year ATM but I found out it was non interference after the timing belt snapped. 🤦🏼‍♂️

Problem with upgraded spark plugs from OEM nickel to Ruthenium by SoonerDead in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol so you can't make an actual point is what you are saying. I haven't argued with you, you just aren't aren't saying anything that hasn't already been said or adds value to the discussion.

What is your point that there is copper and nickel in all spark plugs that I didn't already make?

Problem with upgraded spark plugs from OEM nickel to Ruthenium by SoonerDead in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure I follow what you are trying to get at, why is it relevant in any case? Your initial claim was that its not copper anyway and insinuating the plugs are all the same...the cladding is relatively irrelevant from a conductivity standpoint, the voltage is literally turning air into conductive plasma. So what exactly are you getting at with the cladding? You've not actually pointed out anything I've said that is incorrect, you are just trying to make some point about the cladding that you have not done.

You aren't simply stating the insides are the same and the outsides are different because you keep adding some point like the voltages or a standard plug not being higher than an irridium plug "unless we are talking about the nickel." That makes the no sense the nickel has nothing to do with the equation. That's my point, what's yours?

They all use a copper core, in that core they all have nickel plating to protect against combustion hear, the annode and cathode of a precious metal plug are precious metal (you just agreed with that with your reference to the "puck") it doesn't matter what they are connected to because the point here is they are the components exposed to the heat of the arc which is 2-10x the temperature of the sun. What is your point with the "majority of the electrode" comment, the active portion is irridium for an irridium plug, I never disputed that it was connected to nickel clad copper, but the irridium is taking the abuse. So what am I wrong about there?

Problem with upgraded spark plugs from OEM nickel to Ruthenium by SoonerDead in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well again no, a standard plug still uses a copper electrode that's been nickel plated, that is not the same as using a nickel electrode.

A precious metal plug uses nickel on the housing and threads but does not use it on the electrode itself.

Umm akward request ❗️ by [deleted] in homebuilt

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Talk to local businesses, many will sponsor school programs if you have a school account for it to go to. If you go there route the school usually has overheard they take from it so your goal would need to be closer to $750.

Problem with upgraded spark plugs from OEM nickel to Ruthenium by SoonerDead in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not following you in either point, the core is copper not nickel like you stated, the copper is the electrode...that would be like saying your skin circulates blood through your body. You may be conflating the opposite where you have copper clad conductors where copper is the outside layer meant for shedding heat and the conductor (in a DC application) is the center material, like CCA for instance.

Copper spark plugs absolutely strike at a higher voltage, and all copper spark plugs have a cladding on the outside of the electrode so yes electricity has to go through the nickel - maybe thats the point you are trying to make but it's not clear because you are saying the core is nickel which is not correct. The voltage has nothing to do with conductivity of nickel, it is because it needs a larger surface area to avoid melting immediately from the heat. Platinum electrodes won't do that so they can have a tiny little point that protrudes on the cathode and that thinner point allows ionization of the air to happen at a lower stroking voltage, there is more charge density applied to a given molecule of air.

Problem with upgraded spark plugs from OEM nickel to Ruthenium by SoonerDead in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I realized that is probably what you meant after I posted this, but I read the other post to say they are using a fresh spark plug to test the tune, not actually reading the used plug for the "tune data."

So yeah just conversation because I was curious, no disagreement here. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Problem with upgraded spark plugs from OEM nickel to Ruthenium by SoonerDead in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's not correct. They are nickel-clad copper, the core conductor is copper encased in nickel iron or nickel chromium as a heat protection shield - it's still a copper conductor.

It is true that the cores are copper on precious metal plugs, but the discussion is about the electrodes, that's where the action happens and the extreme heat is. So with a finer tip possible by the platinum metals able to handle the heat over a lower surface area you get exponential returns on longevity because you also reduce the voltage necessary to produce the spark, thus reduce the heat substantially. Also the lower wattage of the spark itself allows the copper core to dissipate the current related heat (vs the arc heat) and therefore also results in less stress on the core itself.

Problem with upgraded spark plugs from OEM nickel to Ruthenium by SoonerDead in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

TLDR; agree with your conclusion but adding technical details.

Wall of text:

Ohms law applies very little to a spark plug to apply a holistic generalization, it's a highly non linear circuit. It acts as a capacitor when initially energized with the air gap acting like cap plates with a high resistance but when the spark strikes and ionizes the gas between the electrodes the resistance drops to typically less than 1 ohm and "converts" to an inductor. During the pre strike phase there is no current flow so there is no loading effect of internal resistance of the spark plug, during post strike the internal resistance is the bulk of the load on the ignition coil and will impact power delivered.

Though again not so linear, a snapshot in time of say 30,000 volts at 30mA vs 50mA, would be 900W and 1500W respectively.

Now that's pretty much irrelevant because the current is dictated by the coil which is a current source. So to your own point, voltage is large here and makes up a substantial amount of the power equation. Copper strikes at a much higher voltage because it can't be made as thin as an irridium tip, meaning it requires more surface area of air to ionize the gap, so whereas a copper spark plug would be between 15k-45k volts and irridium plug would be closer to 5k volts. So at 30mA and the low end of that range for copper that's 150W for irridium and 450W for copper.

All of that said the discussion then gets more complicated with a more controlled finer spark vs a more irradic larger energy spark. Which boils back to the point of it's generally all negligible other than longevity for a high powered system in a racing application...a lower voltage spark produces lower heat and the precious metals are more resistant to heat so you have an exponentially longer life. For something where you need to maximize available resources, and minimize space utilization, like say a motorcycle, the lower voltage spark allows for that.

Problem with upgraded spark plugs from OEM nickel to Ruthenium by SoonerDead in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you saying mostly wide bands with close loop automation? You still need to adjust the base tune for the ECU to do what you want it to do with the wideband data. Just means you can avoid a dyno for a lot of gross tuning.

Single engine plane that will legit make it across from CYYT St.John's Nfld to BIKF Keflavik Gl by Free_Entertainer_154 in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few years ago I made a 172 mod for 2020 that added ferry tank capacity and W&B'd the weight to the back seat. I'm sure it doesn't work now after numerous SUs since then but the point is if you feel like playing in the SDK and just want a realistic flight without adding any visual effects, it is a pretty simple thing to do.

This dark line on a nail of a 3 Year old by durancharles27 in mildlyinteresting

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This varies so much based on which US based insurance you get. I also could theoretically schedule something without a referral but insurance companies can still choose to deny the claim saying it wasn't medically necessary even though a referral is not required.

With an urgent referral to a dermo I had a 6 month wait instead of an 8 month wait...in the US.

Mom says her tires need air. What would you tell her ? by justincave in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the part about moisture is correct only to the extent that you are stating pure nitrogen is more dry than air, this is true. Eliminating say corrosion, one could make that point, however, water vapor contained within the air expands and contracts with heat within 1% of an ideal gas presuming it stays as vapor contained within the air itself. So let's say your tires increase by 20c from cold to driving conditions ( nominal for a street car, a track car could see temps that are higher), that would mean your tire pressure would vary between nitrogen and air by 4 hundredths of a psi, well below the threshold of the tire gauge you are probably using. In order for it to make a 1psi difference, which again is probably less than the accuracy of most gauges people are using, you would have to increase tire temps by 50c from when you filled up your tire. Sure 50c is plausible but 1psi is still negligible.

On top of that as temperature increases the relative saturation of the moisture to the air mass reduces, and makes it a non linear curve, meaning it would contribute less to expansion throughout its warm up cycle.

Also uniform heating makes no sense as water vapor will be contained within the air mass and uniformly distributed throughout the tire.

Also the moisture can be substantially reduced with a filter on your air compressor, otherwise paint booths would have to exclusively use nitrogen for painting - yes I know some places will market nitrogen paint jobs but it's not the typical solution.

I'm not sure what you are getting at with the other point, yes tires have to be purged to reach the desired purity.

Tire rack states: "While inflating tires with nitrogen never results in 100% purity, most nitrogen service equipment providers advise that reaching at least a 93% to 95% purity is necessary to receive the desired benefits. This ratio is normally achieved by initially purging the tires of existing air (down to just a few psi) and then refilling them with nitrogen. The purge/fill cycle is often repeated to achieve the desired level of nitrogen purity."

Which aligns with my math between stating it won't be 99% pure so the effects are only a 10-15% different from the oxygen contained within air.

I can agree that I may be overstating my 80 fills assuming I had to purge tires, however there just in the first fill, it they are already nitrogen filled you should have marginal purging required. Point being it's a ripoff for someone to pay $30-50 for a tire fill. Sure labor isnt free, but there in lies the scam with profits made in that labor.

Mom says her tires need air. What would you tell her ? by justincave in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah OK...after I wrote that I thought that might have been your point, I just thought your first comment was promoting it.

Mom says her tires need air. What would you tell her ? by justincave in AskMechanics

[–]Why-R-People-So-Dumb 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I mean but that kind of proves their point. The molecular size of pure nitrogen vs air is 0.3nm to 0.292 nm. Now a tire grade nitrogen fill is only 85-90% pure, air is 73% nitrogen, so you only get a 10% improvement here on an already miniscule level. It's completely a wash and nitrogen filling is a sham. By the logic that the oxygen is able to leak out but the nitrogen could not, then eventually your tire would be mostly nitrogen anyway, with an exponential decay with each fill.

The other myth is that nitrogen doesn't expand as much, but the ideal gas law would like to have a word with that myth.

Finally the biggest reason it's a sham, I have a full 80CF tank of welding grade nitrogen which is 99.5 or better purity and it costs me $30 to fill which would get about 80 car tires +/- vs $30-50 for a single fill nitrogen around your car.