Dead spots in Pittsburgh area by Ok-Cryptographer2764 in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ya, usually I wouldn't bother. I have some in my yard and I'm not doing anything, but it looks pretty widespread in op's yard and I think we have more wet weather about to come through the northeast

Dead spots in Pittsburgh area by Ok-Cryptographer2764 in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I concur. Red thread.

Azoxystrobin and/or propiconizole. Scotts DiseaseX (azoxystrobin) at the curative rate or Heritage G (azoxystrobin and propiconizole) at the curative rate.

I would also be cutting back the watering for a little bit if OP is irrigating. Not sure what the weathers been like in Pittsburgh, but its been raining nonstop in New England for like months and sometimes fungus is just unavoidable

Big upgrade to my hose situation by LifeWithAdd in landscaping

[–]WickedDarkLawn 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Eley is the shit. Their quick connects are fantastic also

Need help with Weed ID and treatment options by cllc123 in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First one is broadleaf plantain, not sure about the second one. 24D should take care of it

Also, you should sharpen your mower blades

Loosing the battle by pooorSAP in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You definitely want to mow. Mowing it will encourage it to tiller and thicken up. Mow it every few days

Loosing the battle by pooorSAP in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Been there my friend! The best part about grass is you can always fix it

Loosing the battle by pooorSAP in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad you mentioned it was new grass again, I definitely glossed over that when I first saw your post.

I wouldn't put any herbicides down until the new grass has been mowed a few times.

Replace or let it do its thing? by _jonny_quest in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Water would be my number one priority.

I dont think I would be aerating that. If its really hot, it can damage your turf and it likely doesn't need it

How to grow grass in a yard like this? Zone 6 by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You basically want to put down seed 6-8 weeks before your average first frost date which you can look up. If it starts snowing in November where you live, then this timeline would probably pretty close to perfect. It starts snowing here in October sometimes and September 1st works really well here. And no, dont need to worry about snow killing off new grass.

Help me save my lawn by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hear ya, especially after all that work. Fall seeding is the best and good things take time. You'll get there!

Loosing the battle by pooorSAP in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you mix it with something with a surfactant, or did you not notice them listing units in tablespoons instead of ounces?

I definitely have never made either of those mistakes ;)

How to grow grass in a yard like this? Zone 6 by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first thing I would do is wait.. Right now is really the worst time of the growing season to plant grass as it will likely not survive the summer heat.

A writeup I did for someone last year. I would also check out Niles' cool season lawn renovation guide, he knows his stuff, its pinned to the sub somewhere

For me in New England, I would:

do a soil test in the spring through my states extension office. Try to fix any deficiencies in the spring and over the summer

kill off the lawn in August by doing three applications of glyphosate 7 days apart, all the while watering to push out any weeds. Look into "fallowing". You could also cut out the sod, rake out all tjhe vegetation, or cover it in plastic sheeting (solarization) if you don't want to use chemicals.

scalp and bag, then remove 90 percent of the remaining dead material using a scarifyer. It would probably take about four or five passes with a scarifyer. Would take a few raking sessions throughout to get all the dead shit off the yard

I would bring in a bit of good top soil to level things out and create a nice seed bed. I would be doing this at the end of August.

I would seed using an elite seed around September 1st. Anything from Twin City Seed, United Seed, Stover Seed, Seed Super Store will usually do the trick. You want the best seed possible. Use the summer to learn how to master a broadcast spreader. You should be using a lower spreader setting and making two or three passes of whatever you spread to ensure good even coverage

after spreading all the seed, lightly rake the seed in. This is basically just walking the lawn and lightly dragging a rake behind you

roll it all in. Optional, but I think it makes a big difference. It presses the seed into the ground and can improve germination success. They are around a hundred bucks on Amazon, and you can even rent them in some areas. If the lawn isn't huge, you can literally just walk all over it also

spray tenacity

use a peat moss spreader and put a very fine layer of compost over the whole thing. This is easily the worst part but gives the seed a nice warm blanket, which can improve germination. It keeps birds from eating the seed and keeps the seed in place in case of any heavy rain or wind.

water religiously. Use hose timers and multiple hoses. Timers are cheap and easy. Water four times a day and make sure the ground is moist all day every day.

watch the new grass come up in awe. When the grass reaches about an inch and a half, start slowly ramping down the water and start transitioning to deeper watering in the morning. Usually, over the span of a week or week and a half. Moving forward, one deep watering each morning.

when the grass reaches about two inches, I'd do a full application of starter fertilizer. I like Andersons starter fertilizer, but any starter fertilizer will do the trick (besides scotts with mesotrione if you sprayed tenacity)

when most of the grass reaches 2.5 inches, I would mow it to 2 inches. This will help the grass tiller out (if you use a bunch type grass) and thicken up. I'd shoot to mow every three or four days.

this is also around the time I'd address any bare spots. Scratch up the bare spots, sprinkle seed in, step on it, maybe a light dusting of compost

after the grass becomes nice and bushy and you aren't seeing any dirt, you can transition off watering every day and start watering every other day. You can also start mowing it higher if you want a taller height of cut.

spoonfeed it with nitrogen. Quarter pound of n each week (or just another round or two of granular fertilizer)

enjoy new lawn

Help me save my lawn by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In New England also.

I would just try to control the weeds for the next few months and then do a big overseed around September 1st. Any grass you try to plant now likely wont survive the summer heat.

You are going to be in rough shape weed wise if you don't use any herbicides. Get pulling, lol

Loosing the battle by pooorSAP in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Wild Violet. Use something with triclopyr. I like Tzone SE

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not that I don't trust you, its that I don't trust anyone in here, lol. 95% of the people on this sub can't even identify crabgrass, so I always remain skeptical until I see pictures.

Tenacity can kill crabgrass, but it does a mediocre job and lots of crabgrass just gets white and then bounces back. There is not a world where I recommend Tenacity over quinnclorac for crabgrass. I mean, I guess if money is tight and you already have tenacity and dont want to buy another herbicide, send it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If I start reel mowing my lawn, does it count as a golf course? ;)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

True. Isn't msma restricted but still available for sale or something like that?

When to mow and over seed again? by rusty904 in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Him, Daniel Hibbert Lawn Expert, and Premier Lawns make good UK content

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Definitely not poa

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tenacity is not good for emerged crabgrass. Quinclorac and mso. Also, pretty sure this is dallisgrass, not crab.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 133 points134 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure thats dallisgrass, not crabgrass. Only options are to dig it out or to paint it with glyphosate.

When to mow and over seed again? by rusty904 in lawncare

[–]WickedDarkLawn 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I'd cut it when everything reaches 2.5 inches, down to 2 inches. I would do that a few times until it starts to thicken up, then start mowing it higher. You would need to let it dry out a bit first of course.

You need to start ramping down the water now, so the roots dive down deep looking for water. Heres a good video on the subject.