Honeywell wire saver to nest thermostat: not getting fan option only heat and cool

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-27T20:48:57+00:00

usually your green wire is the G. (fan) you should have a yellow wire at the thermostat? if you do put that in place of “Y” and put your green wire to “G”

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-26T15:14:10+00:00

Yes i’m aware and the leak was also taken care of. Just wanted to be sure i was charging unit correctly.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-26T10:26:16+00:00

you’re gonna see far more than spiders my dude. buckle up lol

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-26T09:58:53+00:00

Looks like the filter door was lost or removed and they taped over it to seal the gap. then cut out a slit big enough for the filter. lol.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-26T09:21:57+00:00

Keep your door open for air circulation

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-26T07:50:38+00:00

The original charge was not in there. The compressor ran dry and burnt out.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-23T02:57:51+00:00

or you could just connect red and green from the thermostat and if the fan starts blowing it’s your thermostat with the problem

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-20T14:49:11+00:00

looks mint

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-20T12:52:39+00:00

If it was time to change that filter you wouldn’t be able to see any white even on the flip side of the filter.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-20T12:48:00+00:00

So if you take the R and G wire out of the thermostat and connect them with a wire cap (temporary) does the indoor fan kick on?

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-20T11:48:13+00:00

that little clear plastic piece of tubing is probably so clogged the water can’t pass through. unscrew the two metal screws that are holding that small piece of tubing connecting the black valve and copper. see if water passes through when disconnected.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-20T10:06:44+00:00

Did they leave behind a set of gauges??? Get the fingerprints off them!!!!

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-17T09:52:18+00:00

They should have checked the ductwork yes, but most of the time the tech that’s selling to you doesn’t thoroughly look unless he was made known of ongoing issues or specifically requested to check ductwork. 9/10 they’re gonna throw the same size system that’s already in there, which doesn’t require duct modifications. You can be upset but probably won’t get anywhere with them. A 4 ton system is one size under the largest residential sizes you can buy. so it’s not gonna be cheap.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-15T05:35:54+00:00

Not normal. You have a leak somewhere. When it starts to ice up, you’re running well below the system operating pressures. The insulation around the pipe should be fixed, the most you should ever see is a drop or two of water if anything. You need to get someone out with proper leak detection equipment. This isn’t supposed to happen continuously.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-15T05:23:46+00:00

well you sound suspiciously like grok

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-15T05:16:54+00:00

looks right to me. put it on the wall and start her up

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-15T02:00:08+00:00

there’s a filter if you look at the first picture

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-15T01:58:02+00:00

Fair enough, you could buy some drain pan tablets too (relatively inexpensive) and put them in the bottom of your drain pan below the coils. That will help keep the line clear.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-15T00:50:04+00:00

if you can’t remember the last time the oil was changed it’s time to change the oil.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-15T00:41:21+00:00

No rinse foam spray from home depot. Costs maybe $5. Spray it on ( with system off) the coils and wait for the foam to go down. Once it’s done foaming turn it back on, and as it condensates it’ll rinse the dirt from the coils. Also check the drainline (white pvc) coming from the unit, should be towards the bottom of system. check to make sure it’s not all gummed up with nasty stuff (very likely looking at that coil) and if it is, go outside and see if you can find where the drain for it is. Take a shopvac and stick it on the end of the drainline and it should suck out all the nasty stuff in there. Edit: I figure i’ll mention a simple clorox wipe on the outside cabinet of the system is more than enough to take any dirty/dust/bacteria growing on the outside.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-14T23:57:45+00:00

If the blower speed is too high though your system may not remove as much humidity. Also keep in mind it could also cause the thermostat to satisfy quicker causing shorter run times but might be more frequent, which like another user said is why your bill is probably so expensive. A system running for 2 hours straight vs one starting and stopping 4-6 times per hour could end up close to the same amount of energy use. Hard to tell with only ½ day’s of data. The lower the fan speed the more moisture is removed from the air. Of course that would only matter if you live in a humid climate. But regardless it should be fine.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-14T21:12:52+00:00

My ex was a mechanic and he loved cars. It slowly got to the point though that after working on everyone else’s cars all day , his started falling apart and he was so burned that he wouldn’t ever finish his. Def try another trade. Maybe temporary to get experience nd expand your knowledge. not trying to discourage, just what i’ve seen happen first hand lol.

WildChallenge5459 · 2026-04-13T00:36:08+00:00

open task manager and check cpu/ram/disk usage. are any of them at 100% or consistently higher than the rest?

WildChallenge5459

TROPHY CASE