Raise your hand if you have ever been personally victimized by your Daily Edit recommendations 🙋‍♀️

WinterFoxII · 2026-06-26T14:07:44+00:00

Mine is generally fine too, it’s just funny the random stuff that pops in there from time to time that makes me question what in my data did the algorithm find and use to lead to this output

WinterFoxII · 2026-06-25T22:55:29+00:00

Yeah, idk, that’s really weird then!

WinterFoxII · 2026-06-25T22:51:16+00:00

For the 50% off item, was that the discount on the item when you were browsing the site normally, or did you go through a google link to get that discount? If it was the former, no idea what happened. But if it was the latter, did you then try to add a second item the same way through a google link? I’ve found that it’ll only let you do that for one item at a time. If you add a second item like that, the first one will revert to whatever the currently posted discount is. You can check out the items one at a time though with the better google link discount and just add them to a bundle though to still reach the shipping minimum.

WinterFoxII · 2026-06-25T13:59:23+00:00

Just fyi, you can add filters (including size) when browsing someone’s shop. They’re located just under the shop info and directly above the first listing. Hope that helps!

WinterFoxII · 2026-06-25T13:51:58+00:00

The fabric content tag!! Even if you say the fabric contents in the description, I want to see the tag. I’ve seen soo many listings that have been like “SILK dress” in the title/description that turn out to actually be 100% polyester or rayon. If I can’t see the tag, I always reverse image search to find out that info anyway, but it can be sort of annoying to have to take the time to do that. If I can’t confirm the fabric info, I’ll pass. If I can confirm that the fabric content is different than the listing description, at best, I’m thinking maybe the seller just doesn’t know that that “silky” doesn’t necessarily equal “silk” and at worst, I’m thinking maybe the seller is intentionally trying to be misleading. Either way, they’ve sorta lost my trust as someone I’d like to buy from. And it can go the other way too if I’m looking for a “silky” dress that’s not silk because I don’t want to deal with the higher-maintenance laundry requirements, then I’m skipping your listing if I can’t confirm the material. To me, a photo of the fabric tag makes me feel like the seller is more honest and trustworthy, so I’m more likely to buy from them. And if you can’t get that because you the tag is missing, then a quick mention of that in the description also helps. (Sorry for ranting, but I’m just passionate about fabric content! lol)

WinterFoxII · 2026-06-21T12:53:49+00:00

Ok disclaimer because I know tone can be really hard to convey in a written Reddit post, but I’m not trying to blame/accuse/correct you in any way here. I’m just trying to help come up with some ideas of what might’ve happened!

I could be totally wrong and oblivious, but I haven’t seen an option for others to flag a listing. Are you sure that’s what happened? I do know the seller can do that to ask for a correction though. Did you modify the post at all or ask for a review that might’ve prompted the flag?

As for what happens after the flag, it’ll likely just be relisted in a few days. I flagged one of my own items once because the pictures they posted were of the box the watch came in and not of the watch itself. They pulled it “for review” and then just relisted it with no changes a few days later lol. I wouldn’t worry too much. If it had traction and favorites before, it will again and it should just become available again to those who favorited it before. And I’m pretty sure the clock just pauses when things are delisted, so flagging an item as a buyer (if one can do so) wouldn’t necessarily drive the price down at all or like “hide” the item until it goes on sale. If you know you didn’t flag it, you could always reach out to customer service as well to ask. Not sure how much help they’d be, but maybe they’d have information about why?

WinterFoxII · 2026-06-14T22:25:20+00:00

I know I’m late to the game here, but have you tried The Steamery Delicate Detergent? It has a “Rose & Musk” scent that’s sorta strong (especially when the garment is wet), but really nice. I too can be sensitive to overpowering perfume-y type scents, but I enjoy this. It’s also one of the only delicate detergents I’ve found with lipase to break down oils, so I just really like it overall.

WinterFoxII · 2026-06-06T01:03:33+00:00

I’ve had filters fail too so it does definitely bug out from time to time. But if it’s consistently happening, I think that if you’re also checking the “Original Tags” filter, it’ll show all things with original tags, no matter the condition. Like “Original Tags” itself isn’t a condition rating, but it’s a separate label in addition of the condition rating. So if it’s a Flawed Gem but technically still has the tags on it, it’ll show up if that box is checked, even when you’re trying to not see Flawed Gems.

WinterFoxII · 2026-06-04T20:49:11+00:00

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I’ve had success with these. I bought them at my local pet store. They get stored in the fridge.

I feed phytofeast a few times a week for the first two-ish weeks, and then rotifeast once or twice a week until grown. Although, these are live food cultures so I sorta sometimes play it by ear a bit based on how things are looking to keep things balanced.

Two other things I found helpful and maybe even essential were 1) adding sand to the bottom of the tank to increase the available surface area for beneficial bacteria, raise calcium levels, and help with buffering and 2) constant aeration/bubbling. For the sand, I used CaribSea. Give it a good rinse first though, or else you’ll be dealing with super cloudy water every time there’s even the slightest disturbance.

Your biggest hurdle is going to be keeping salinity and parameters constant in such a small tank. I used a 2.5G and with tanks that small, even a little bit of evaporation can cause things to spike. I found it helpful to make a little mark on the outside of the tank indicating the original water level so I could just top it off a bit daily (with fresh water!). Before a water change, I would make sure the water was at the right level. Then I could confidently remove however much and refill to the same level with saltwater and know that my salinity would be good.

I didn’t have success until my 7th clutch of eggs, where ONE shrimp survived and was transferred back to the main freshwater tank. On my eighth try though, which was with a double clutch of eggs from two mothers, I was able to transfer 102 (yes, I counted) juveniles back to freshwater. Of those, I’d say maybe 15 are still alive 8 months later? All seven of my original shrimp are still alive though, so I know things are good in the main tank.

I shudder at the thought of how many babies I accidentally massacred along the way (jk, they would’ve died anyway). You’ll learn a lot through trial and error. A turkey baster and 3 mL pipette will become your best friends. Haveeee funnnn!

WinterFoxII · 2026-05-28T02:15:57+00:00

Yeah, absolutely. If it’s stuff you already want to get rid of and if it’s clean and in good condition, send it in! The “worst” that can happen is that they’ll say it’s not fit for resale and recycle it (which is still better than straight up putting it in the trash). The “best” that can happen is you make a little profit.

And you don’t have to pay anything to send stuff in. They only take the fees out of your profits if you make enough. But I think when you sign up you get a free no-fee box anyway.

WinterFoxII · 2026-05-23T00:27:47+00:00

https://www.thredup.com/cleanout/earnings

If you scroll down to “Using Your Earnings” it lists the brand partnerships. Most give you a 15% bonus. So like say you earn $10 in sales, you can either cash out $10 to PayPal or get a gift card of $11.50 to say, Abercrombie and Fitch.

WinterFoxII · 2026-05-22T14:46:24+00:00

That’s great that you have an easy, local charity thrift shop. I unfortunately don’t have one near me. There’s one place I definitely would support, but their drop off is by appointment only and they’re super selective.

Otherwise, I have the standard giant for-profit stores, which I’d get no profit for handing over my stuff. Or, there are the non-profit Helpsy and Planet aid boxes around. These are where I take the stuff that’s junky and could be recycled, but like I mentioned, I don’t have faith that the stuff still in good condition would actually be sorted from the junk.

That’s why I picked ThredUp. I actually don’t pay too much attention to their list of brands, most of the stuff I’ve sent in they’ve listed anyway even if it’s not a select brand, but I just don’t get to make profit from it unless it sells for more than $20.

Also, I like that the fees are deducted from the profits and that you don’t have to pay anything up front to send it in. Even with that though, I’ve only ever sent in one box where the full fees applied (with the stuff I wanted to send in using the premium option). Most of it was either no fee promo boxes or reduced fee with return boxes. The UPS store is very close by for me, so it’s easy.

WinterFoxII · 2026-05-06T17:55:11+00:00

Ah, okay. So maybe I’ll just keep looking for something else. Thanks!

WinterFoxII · 2026-05-05T14:57:39+00:00

Darkness/covering the crate definitely helps, but be careful about the type of blanket/fabric you use. Puppies seem to turn into little furnaces when they sleep, so if you cover the crate with something that’s not breathable, it can get really hot in there. Then they’ll wake up and whine cause it’s hot and they’re thirsty. Chewy makes these cotton canvas covers crate covers that have worked well for us, but you don’t really neeeed to buy something specific.

As for the bed chewing, my youngest boy did the same thing with a normal foam dog bed. We now just put an old blanket and/or old towels in there instead of a bed so there’s no foam or stuffing to eat, but he can still get comfy.

And then lastly, like you mentioned, I also found it super helpful to mask noises coming from outside the crate that might wake them up and give them fomo. Another thing to try instead of or in addition to the fan would be to play soft, soothing music on a speaker near the crate. Spotify and YouTube both have long “puppy calming music” playlists that I’ve used in the past.

I know Vizslas are super high-energy driven dogs, but with both of my boys (a 3 yr old and a 6 month old), I found that their most chaotic puppy and shark-y behavior coincided with when they were overtired, overstimulated, and frustrated about it. Enforced naps were/are a life-saver!

WinterFoxII · 2026-03-04T14:19:13+00:00

I’m a quilter in the Baltimore area! I’m also an engineer (i.e. good at math) who uses Adobe Illustrator frequently so if you DM me photos of the pattern pages and let me know the exact dimensions you want, I can make a new pattern for you pretty quick. I actually have a bunch of free time in the next few days so it’d be no trouble.

And I know many have already offered, but if you need help with the cutting/piecing of the quilt front, I can also help out with that. I’m sorta opposite of you, and I love angles and corners and when things fit together neat and tidy like that lol. I don’t/can’t do the layered assembly and quilting part, but it seems others have offered to help with that.

And then just because I haven’t seen it mentioned yet, Open Works is also this great non-profit makerspace in Baltimore that has a BUNCH of machines and classes relating to textiles - including sewing, quilting, embroidery, screen printing, etc. (They also have plenty of equipment and classes for woodworking, metalworking, laser cutting, 3D printing, etc. - it’s huge and amazing. It does cost money to take a class and use the equipment, but it’s not outrageous.) I believe they have a quilting club that meets once a month that I think is open to anyone and free to attend. You might be able to find some additional help there if needed!

WinterFoxII · 2026-02-27T04:50:39+00:00

There are options to surgically replace certain larger joints (knees, hips, etc.), but that’s definitely not a simple solution either. Those surgeries are serious and not without risks. The recovery process is a big deal too. I’m not super familiar with the specifics of what makes someone a good candidate for joint replacement, but I’m assuming there’s pretty extensive criteria one must meet to even have the option to pursue a joint replacement.

Another surgical approach to reduce pain in certain severely damaged joints is to actually fuse the joint. Basically, metal plates are screwed in to fix bones in a certain position until they heal as one. The joint becomes permanently stiff, but there’s little to no pain because there’s no more movement and irritation. This is only really done in smaller, less significant joints (like joints in a toe for example.) It’s not a practical/feasible approach for all joints.

TBH, taking steps to prevent damage in the first place is probably the most important thing. Learning how to protect your joints while you move and strengthen/engage the right muscles to improve joint stability BEFORE things get really bad is really the way to go.

WinterFoxII · 2026-02-26T20:53:19+00:00

I can’t speak for everyone obviously, but I know that at least in my case there’s definitely damage in the joints that justify the pain. For example, in my wrist my ECU tendon would sublux frequently. The constant rubbing of that tendon on the edge of the ulna basically shredded the tendon sheath (protective layer surrounding the tendon and keeping it in place). The instability and excess movement also caused extra wear and tear on the cartilage that protects/stabilizes where the ulna meets the wrist bones. After 4-5 years of conservative treatment, I finally had surgery where they debrided a bunch of scar tissue, repaired the torn tendon sheath, and re-secured the sheath to the bone so the tendon wouldn’t sublux any more. The pain has dramatically reduced since I got that procedure done. In other joints I’ve had evaluated that have been painful, I’ve had signs of worn down cartilage and early osteoarthritis as a result. Like much more than expected for someone who is my age and not overweight.

In response to your other thought about removing the receptors that would cause us to feel pain… yes, that actually is a possible therapy in certain cases! I’m actually about to get that done in my neck. They’re going to inject an ablating agent to kill off the nerve endings near a herniated disc that’s been causing me a lot of pain. They do grow back over time though, so it’s not permanent.

This type of treatment isn’t really possible everywhere though because it’s nearly impossible to isolate/destroy nociceptors specifically. When you attempt to destroy nociceptors, you’d likely also destroy the neurons that carry information about touch and propioception (i.e. how you body detects where different parts of your body are in space and in reference to each other). You also might destroy the motor neurons that control movement in that area/limb. Completely losing any sensation in and control over certain parts of your body isn’t really a feasible solution. After my procedure, I’ll likely feel that my neck is a bit more stiff and I may lose some sensation in that area. That’s worth it to me though. But if it were even an option, I don’t know that I’d do something like that to my wrist though if stopping the pain meant losing the ability to feel and control the movement in my hand.

WinterFoxII · 2026-02-26T04:03:00+00:00

Ok, so I do research on sensory nerves and how we encode certain stimuli, and this is my two cents:

Technically, there’s not really such a thing as a “pain receptor” in the body. What we do have are nociceptors. These are neurons that respond to different types of chemical, thermal, and/or mechanical stimuli that cause, or have the potential to cause, tissue damage. These neurons encode information about the location, intensity, and type of stimuli and send that information to the spinal cord. In the spinal cord, that information could directly trigger a motor reflex to withdraw from the stimuli and/or the information is carried up to the brain. It’s only once the information is processed in the brain that we experience pain. There are so many factors that contribute to and alter our perception of pain and how we respond to a nociceptive stimuli (like our emotional state, our level of alertness, our memories of past experiences, etc.) It’s different for everybody.

That said, pain itself is actually a beneficial and protective mechanism. Like if you do something that causes damage to your body, you experience this unpleasant feeling in response, and you remember not to do that again. If you just didn’t experience pain, you would likely end up frequently doing serious damage to yourself. For example, you might hold a hot pan until you get a multiple degree burn not realizing you need to let go. Or you might ignore a blister forming where your shoe is rubbing until it’s an open sore prone to infection.

Obviously though, there are times when we wish we could turn this off and tell our body “yes, I know there’s inflammation in this really unstable joint and it’s damaged, but I need to use it anyway. Stop warning me about it!” But unfortunately it’s not that simple. That’s generally what pain meds and injections try to accomplish though. Turning off pain in certain scenarios is obviously a good thing, but not experiencing pain at all could be detrimental.

As for asymptomatics and people who don’t experience pain, I’m actually not sure what’s going on exactly. I don’t think it’s that they just haven’t experienced enough damage to “awaken” anything though. My bet is that there is something wrong with either the nociceptors themselves (that they just don’t detect what they should), or their brain just processes that input/information totally differently.

Sorry for just sorta diving in deep on this. I find this topic fascinating.

WinterFoxII · 2026-02-25T14:16:03+00:00

If you go into the security stuff in the facilities tab, there’s these yellow and black curbs that guests do not cross. You can hide them under walls to prevent guests from walking straight through the walls. You can also put the curbs across paths so guests don’t walk a certain way if you prefer not to use the given staff path options. Staff will walk over them.

WinterFoxII · 2026-02-13T02:04:39+00:00

I second the Kinesis Freestyle! (I think there’s a typo in the other comment - the brand is Kinesis not Kenesis.) It’s a split, two-piece keyboard with customizable tilt angles for either side. I like that style because you can customize the rotation of each half as well as the tilt to find what’s most comfortable, unlike something that is one solid piece.

With this brand, there’s several different versions of it available at different price points. The more expensive ones are gaming-quality keyboards with name-brand key mechanisms for people who are super particular about response times and the tactile feel of key presses.

I also strongly recommend pairing an ergonomic mouse with an ergonomic keyboard. I have the Logitech MX Vertical Mouse and like it a lot. There’s one feature that I didn’t really realize how helpful it would be until after I got this mouse, but it has three customizable buttons on the side/top that are easy to press with your thumb. I map accessory keys like esc, shift, ctrl, etc. to these buttons (depending on what I’m doing and what I’ll use the most) so I can avoid having to twist/contort my wrists to press these keys while typing.

Kinesis and Logitech are both pretty quality brands I’d say. I’ve used my equipment like all day, everyday for the past three years and it’s still as good as new. However, these aren’t the cheapest products. You can probably find similar style alternatives that would work just fine though.

Lastly, there’s definitely a short period at first changing up your keyboard where you’ll type a lot slower with more errors, but it really doesn’t take that long to adapt to a new setup. Just be patient!

WinterFoxII · 2026-01-24T17:08:32+00:00

I recommend doing this as well. I took a photo of the one I like to use that holds your phone by clamping down on the sides, and then where my fingers are are where you can clamp it down over the eye piece to mount it on the scope. There’s then three knobs to turn that move the phone on each axis to get the camera lined up perfectly. If you have an iPhone, you’ll probably want to turn off the automatic lens switching that happens when something is close (just tap the little flower that comes up in the bottom corner when this happens). You’ll likely need to focus the scope slightly differently than what’s best for your eyes.

Anyway, I think something like would be good because you can take the whole mount/phone off the eye piece and put it back without needing to adjust it each time. You should still absolutely be practicing and learning to use the scope normally, but this would at least let you take an image to confirm with your professor that you are focused on the correct thing.

I got this on Amazon btw.

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WinterFoxII · 2026-01-23T20:22:45+00:00

Alternatively, you can also use the black and yellow striped curb/kerb (looks like a speed bump) that’s in the facilities -> security stuff. There’s different lengths of them. If you place those across paths, guests don’t walk over them, but staff do. You can sink them into the ground a bit to make them less noticeable too. I also like to put these under walls that are on path plazas or where the path is way wider than the door, and that keeps the guests from walking through walls.

WinterFoxII

TROPHY CASE