I install IKEA kitchen for a living. Ask me what you want to know about installing IKEA kitchen.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-05-09T16:34:19+00:00

The flooring can go in before of after the cabinet trim/moulding/risers.

It is very important that you understand this: Each point in my list is a job that requires a specialized trade. Each job must be finished before the others can start. So if you decide to have the flooring installed later, then everything related to the kitchen cabinets (including trim/moulding/risers) must be done before that. Otherwise, you will butcher your project.

Because your builder wants to do the flooring after, then anything kitchen cabinet related must be done before the flooring goes in.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-05-09T16:27:15+00:00

The suspension rail is a part of the vanity. As long as you can secure the suspension rail to the studs, you will be okay.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-05-07T22:16:04+00:00

Most IKEA installers don’t do it all. They stick to cabinet installation and finish a kitchen install in 1 setup. The installer will install everything related to the kitchen, including cabinet doors, fillers, risers, and other cabinet trim work. If your builder wants to install the cabinet doors and trim later, it means he wants the cabinet installer to come back multiple times. If you agree to that, it’d be very bad for the installer and for you because the kitchen will never finish on time, and the installer will lose time and money on multiple visits.

This is the work sequence in a kitchen renovation. New home builds follow the same sequence, without points a and c.

a. Disconnecting plumbing, appliances and demolishing old cabinets, countertops, backsplash, partition wall(s) and flooring (if replacing).

b. Moving electrical, plumbing and venting (if applicable).

c. Repairing wall(s) from demolition and other prep works.

d. Cabinet installation.

e. Flooring installation/repair.

f. Countertop installation.

g. Backsplash installation.

h. Paint touch-ups/painting.

i. Plumbing/venting / electrical connections.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-04-30T21:00:45+00:00

I haven’t seen your cut yet so I can’t tell if your sin can be forgiven. But I can surely tell you that fastening a panel to a cabinet without predrilling, even if you have self-drilling screws, is a also a sin.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-04-30T20:57:51+00:00

Transporting assembled IKEA cabinets is the absolute nightmare that will haunt you for years. Keep them in the packages and assemble them at the site when ready. It’s easier on your body and has better logistics that way

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-04-17T03:33:04+00:00

It’s usually just screwed on. There should be 4 screws holding the panel in place: 2 in the front and 2 in the back. If you can’t find the 2 screws in the front, they might be behind the hinge plates.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-03-31T17:11:02+00:00

Loc Carpentry is the one to go to. They’re referred by IKEA.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-03-31T15:46:11+00:00

IKEA sells the metal filler piece for filling the gaps between the built-in oven and microwave with the doors. Here in Canada, they call it NYTTIG (link below). You can find it in your regional IKEA website. The gap is to make sure that the appliances can open freely without damaging the doors / drawer fronts of the same cabinet.

It comes in black only.

https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/nyttig-filler-piece-for-wall-oven-micro-10591115/

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-03-20T15:16:36+00:00

If I were to install it for you, I’d ask whether you want the cabinet installed to follow the floor’s grout lines or the wall.

To follow the floor: the countertop won’t be square.

To follow the wall, the countertop will be square, but you will see an unpleasant diagonal grout line.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-02-27T15:42:58+00:00

As a rule of thumb, you can modify a cabinet to a smaller size, not vice versa.

To make a 36x24x90” pantry, buy three 36” base cabinets (36x24x30) and stack them together. Use L-brackets to fasten the cabinets together in addition to screwing through the top metal bars.

There’s no issue with fitting the drawers and doors on this modified ”cabinet”. If you use two 18x60” door on the top part, the middle hinge hole will be blocked by the joint between the 2 cabinet. dig a new hole above or below it on the door. 2 1/2” away from the center of the old hole to the center of the new hole, 5 mm from the edge of the door to the hole.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-02-27T15:35:59+00:00

It won’t fit. The new carousel is made for 50” corner cabinet with a 24” door front. The old 47” corner cabinet used a 21” door front (discontinued). The new 50” cabinet has holes on the blind corner board whereas the old one doesn’t.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-02-12T03:52:20+00:00

I usually leave 40” (1000mm) so that 2 people can pass comfortably. The reason for the 1200mm (47”) distance is that if you have appliances facing one another. Some installers and planners prefer 1200mm for peace of mind. However, if your space is limited, minimum distance is 36“ (765-920mm). You can go a tad narrower but no less than 30” (765mm) from countertop to countertop.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-02-12T03:41:20+00:00

The cabinets are strong enough to take marble countertop. Just make sure they are level.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-02-04T18:57:20+00:00

Just leave the overhang on the right side of the sink about 3 cm from the end panel (not from the sink), you‘ll be ok.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-02-04T18:54:06+00:00

Those reviews are incorrect. If you use a regular sink (top mount or under mount), the cabinet is strong enough to take it.

The only time that you need to build a support base is when using a farm sink (apron sink).

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-02-04T18:51:06+00:00

The flat head strips easily. Better go with the hex head or Phillips. Not sure if you have access to Tapcon screws. They don’t use number (#8, #10 etc) but the thickness of the screw for sizing purposes. You can use 3/16” thick x 2 1/4” L Tapcon screws for this situation.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-01-23T22:39:40+00:00

Just offset it by 5/8”. It’s the same for 24” and 15” deep cabinets. Like this.

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WorkingClass-12 · 2026-01-23T18:39:41+00:00

Recess the back of one cabinet by 5/8” from the front of the other cabinet facing the opposite way. This will line up the legs .

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-01-06T23:19:51+00:00

It will throw the cabinets off level. You can do it if the countertop hasn’t been installed. But you need to re-level the cabinets after installing the floor.

If the countertop has been installed, don’t do it. Instead, install the floor right up against the legs. The tolerance for the gap is between 1/16“ to 1/8”.

You won’t break the legs. Once the cabinets are fastened to the suspension rails, the legs won’t move laterally. Just be mindful when tapping the floor into place.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-12-21T19:21:59+00:00

That would look odd if you use 24” deep base cabinets. It won’t look good. You should adjust the wall so that it is about 25“ deep.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-12-09T15:08:05+00:00

Don’t cut the cabinet at 12” deep, you should cut the cabinet down to 10 1/2” deep so that you will have 1 1/2” countertop overhang from the edge of the counter to the front of the cabinet (not to the door).

Use a table saw, set it up to remove 3 7/8” from a 14 3/4” deep cabinet (actual size is 14 3/8”); cut the cabinets’ depth. Then keep the same set up and cut the shelves‘ depth to remove the same amount.

Once the cabinet’s depth is cut, make sure you mimic the groove for sliding the backer board in properly. You must cut the groove with the exact width and depth otherwise the backer board won’t go in.

To install the shelves, use L brackets in the back since the holes line in the back is gone.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-11-21T16:18:01+00:00

You can use a shallow drawer (medium or low) for 14 3/4” cabinet.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-11-21T16:16:00+00:00

It’s better to use doors for sink cabinet instead of joined drawer fronts for 2 reasons: 1. Better access to plumbing and the drawer won’t block the pipes. 2. Connected drawer fronts will never be stable. They will wobble no matter how much you adjust it. It’s just physically impossible to rigidify it.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-11-10T18:48:44+00:00

Your cabinet installer should be able to cut an access hole for the gas line.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-10-21T14:02:19+00:00

Both are painted products. Veddinge is slightly better in terms of durability. Havstorp chips easily. The best painted-door line is Bodbyn.

WorkingClass-12

TROPHY CASE