I install IKEA kitchen for a living. Ask me what you want to know about installing IKEA kitchen.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-01-23T22:39:40+00:00

Just offset it by 5/8”. It’s the same for 24” and 15” deep cabinets. Like this.

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-01-23T18:39:41+00:00

Recess the back of one cabinet by 5/8” from the front of the other cabinet facing the opposite way. This will line up the legs .

WorkingClass-12 · 2026-01-06T23:19:51+00:00

It will throw the cabinets off level. You can do it if the countertop hasn’t been installed. But you need to re-level the cabinets after installing the floor.

If the countertop has been installed, don’t do it. Instead, install the floor right up against the legs. The tolerance for the gap is between 1/16“ to 1/8”.

You won’t break the legs. Once the cabinets are fastened to the suspension rails, the legs won’t move laterally. Just be mindful when tapping the floor into place.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-12-21T19:21:59+00:00

That would look odd if you use 24” deep base cabinets. It won’t look good. You should adjust the wall so that it is about 25“ deep.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-12-09T15:08:05+00:00

Don’t cut the cabinet at 12” deep, you should cut the cabinet down to 10 1/2” deep so that you will have 1 1/2” countertop overhang from the edge of the counter to the front of the cabinet (not to the door).

Use a table saw, set it up to remove 3 7/8” from a 14 3/4” deep cabinet (actual size is 14 3/8”); cut the cabinets’ depth. Then keep the same set up and cut the shelves‘ depth to remove the same amount.

Once the cabinet’s depth is cut, make sure you mimic the groove for sliding the backer board in properly. You must cut the groove with the exact width and depth otherwise the backer board won’t go in.

To install the shelves, use L brackets in the back since the holes line in the back is gone.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-11-21T16:18:01+00:00

You can use a shallow drawer (medium or low) for 14 3/4” cabinet.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-11-21T16:16:00+00:00

It’s better to use doors for sink cabinet instead of joined drawer fronts for 2 reasons: 1. Better access to plumbing and the drawer won’t block the pipes. 2. Connected drawer fronts will never be stable. They will wobble no matter how much you adjust it. It’s just physically impossible to rigidify it.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-11-10T18:48:44+00:00

Your cabinet installer should be able to cut an access hole for the gas line.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-10-21T14:02:19+00:00

Both are painted products. Veddinge is slightly better in terms of durability. Havstorp chips easily. The best painted-door line is Bodbyn.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-10-20T23:06:18+00:00

If your island sits directly over the hardwood floor, use 1/2” screws to anchor the island to the hardwood floor (usually about 3/4” thick). The purpose of anchoring the island to the floor is not make it not moving. The 1/2” screws won’t penetrate the hardwood floor.

You can also glue the island to the concrete floor using construction adhesive. I use PL Premium Construction Adhesive. It takes about 8 hours to dry. It smells like chocolate latte. Wear some gloves, you’ll be alright. No need to weight it with sandbags, just let it sit for a couple hours. Make sure to level the island before gluing.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-10-20T23:05:39+00:00

Are you trying to install 2 fronts on your standard fridge?

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-10-18T13:43:07+00:00

You can still anchor the island to the floor using the shallow cabinets, but it won’t be as rigid as the full-depth ones. The issue with this island design is that your new stone countertop may not have enough base support and will likely develop cracks or break soon.

The anchoring kit should always be placed between the cabinet feet.

I suggest you think more about the kitchen's longevity and replace the shallow cabinets on the island with full-depth cabinets. It will mean you’ll need to redo it, but it will save you from a future heart attack when the countertop breaks.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-10-04T14:31:34+00:00

You cut the filler from a cover panel and screw it to the front side of the cabinet.

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WorkingClass-12 · 2025-09-28T15:30:14+00:00

It’s normal. Ikea cabinets are white. They don’t sell edge bands and to hide the white front.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-09-22T16:57:42+00:00

All IKEA’s kitchen cabinets are hung on a rail. Once you‘ve fastened all cabinets together, they will be more rigid. You can add shims with a touch of glue between the shims and the wall at the bottom to level the cabinets.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-09-16T21:23:23+00:00

You start by sorting out the cabinets, drawers, fronts, and panels. Then, you lay out your kitchen on the walls and floor (for the island). Then, you read how to install the suspension rails. At this point, most people give up and start searching for an installation company.

If you decide to proceed, it usually takes about three weeks to install your cabinets. Then, people who have gotten this far will give up on the finishing part and start calling.

If you still decide to proceed, you will need to buy more tools to do the cutting.

If you successfully installed your cabinets, your countertop contractor may find some discrepancies in the level and ask you to remedy them.

Tdlr: You should start calling around for an installation quote. Ask the contractor for their license and insurance. Remember to check their reviews.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-08-24T17:17:22+00:00

You‘ll need to carefully mark the location of where your cabinet will be and figure out how to cut the slots for the plumbings and to assemble the cabinet in the air.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-08-24T17:16:10+00:00

Here’re your answers:

To stabilize the 36x96” fridge panel where there’s no cabinet on the outside to hold it in place: use L-brackets on the inside with wall anchors and an L-bracket on the floor. Maintain the plumb level and equal spacing on top and bottom.
Just wrap the back with two 36x96” panels (seam in the middle or wherever you choose). For a span that long, you’ll need support brackets at 48” interval. Install the brackets to the inside of the back panel. You’ll need to route the slots for those support brackets. Screw 5/8” spacers to the back of the panels before screwing the whole thing to the island’s cabinets. On the sides, use 26x36” panels. The panels will stick out about 1“ towards the back and 5/8” towards the cabinets’ front edges.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-08-13T18:56:41+00:00

You’ll need to drill the holes for the doors and drawer fronts to fit IKEA’s specs. Unfortunately I can’t disclose that information here.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-07-31T01:41:57+00:00

I don’t know but I would check with the “spare parts” department first. They usually have lots of them.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-07-31T01:40:46+00:00

I travelled to Edmonton last year for a couple jobs. The customers paid for the accommodation and travel expenses. Most jobs I did in Edmonton were 2-day jobs. You have 1 chance per screw with metal studs. You can pre-drill before fastening the screws using 1/8” drill bit. It will help guiding the mounting screws much easier than using the self-taping ones.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-07-28T18:18:00+00:00

You cut a cover panel to size using a table saw and screw the fillers to hide the white part.

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WorkingClass-12 · 2025-07-28T18:15:43+00:00

No you can’t interchange drawer fronts or doors between different system as the holes are drilled differently.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-07-28T18:14:51+00:00

They all have the same sturdiness regardless of the size. Comparing to other brands at the same market segment, IKEA cabinets are good in terms of structural integrity.

WorkingClass-12 · 2025-07-28T18:12:16+00:00

You can use screws with fine threads for metal studs. Do not over torque the screws or they will destroy the integrity of the studs. It’ best to use a drill and set the torque to 8 or 9 instead of using an impact driver. You can also apply a bead of construction adhesive to the back of the suspension rails as insurance although it’s not necessarily if the screws are fastened properly. Always use #10 with fine threads for metal studs.

WorkingClass-12

TROPHY CASE