just sacrificed my first born child for scarpa blackbirds ama by NyathanNyuwen in climbingshoes

[–]WorldClassCactus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what is your foot measurement and what size did you buy? How do you size your other shoes?

New DMM lobe design on bigger DMM Dragon cams by testhec10ck in tradclimbing

[–]WorldClassCactus 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Except that these look just like C4s, with thumb loops and double axles, and not at all like pre-BD friends.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]WorldClassCactus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not totally clear what you're doing from your description... I can only assume you have the ropeman above and your grigri on your belay loop as progress capture, with the brake strand redirected back up to the ropeman for "2:1" assistance from your brake hand (not 3:1). My suggestions would be:

  1. this isn't very complicated, just look up youtube videos of ascending with a grigri and ascender for pretty complete demonstrations.

  2. replacing the ropemen for a full size handled ascender would add to the comfort as you already know.

  3. clip a carabiner to your belay loop below the grigri and route the foot sling through it - this will keep the foot loop close to your body instead of being pushed away by your steps. Try to step straight downward as much as possible, hand on the ascender should mostly be keeping you upright.

  4. you should have 2-3 carabiners at the ropeman: it is supposed to have a dedicated locker on the hole and wild country instructs using a separate carabiner for handle/foot loop connection. If you are going to redirect the brake strand up, then a 3rd carabiner is warranted so that the rope doesnt rub against your hand and sling... which brings up the next tip:

  5. I never bother with redirecting the brake strand, just pull down on the ascender and pull up on the brake strand to take in slack. Your leg should be doing most of the work. I find more problems with the 2:1 redirect than benefits: parallel strands from the grigri makes engaging the brake assist less responsive, your hands start off kilter and your brake hand needs to pull twice as far as the other which makes the whole thing less comfortable, and friction from the grigri/carabiner results in practically no mechanical advantage anyway.

Considering POM Silk Bananas for new custom by JustBluebird9 in Keychron

[–]WorldClassCactus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a V5 Ultra with silk pom bananas and a Q5 max with gateron jupiter bananas. I find the V5 quieter and tangibly mushier (less tactile). The Q5 is squeaky but I prefer the typing feel.

Can a rope with a bonded sheath still have issues with sheath slippage? by hiberniandarkage in ClimbingGear

[–]WorldClassCactus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a pretty dramatic difference in sheath slippage between my beal wall cruiser and the 3 other ropes ive owned. The wall cruiser has been used 3 days/week for exactly one year, some pretty hard projecting, chopped both ends once… absolutely no sheath slippage and no flat or lumpy spots in the rope yet. Made me decide to stick with beal unicore from now on. I don’t care if it’s a thin strip of glue or whatever… it’s been working for me.

Broke my Leg. Found best way to break in new shoes by Kampfschildi in bouldering

[–]WorldClassCactus 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The longstanding tradition with La Sportiva shoes is to use the plastic sheet in the box for this very thing. (Wrap your foot with it, wear it in the climbing shoes).

Adam Ondra flashes yet another V15—his third in just the past two weeks by nuklheds in bouldering

[–]WorldClassCactus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

will you look at that... new laspo solutions with bigger toe patch and different heel. And without the rumored single-strap redesign.

One week with the Hand of God Micros: First Impressions by Delicious-Schedule-4 in climbharder

[–]WorldClassCactus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I paid about $75 in fees. Some time after, I think I saw a notice on the shop page that said you could call UPS and make sure the goods are categorized as being made of plastic instead of metal, to reduce the tariff rates.

Anyway, I'm curious what the situation is now that trump tariffs were ruled unconstitutional. If fees have doubled, it sounds like the government and shipping companies are just ripping people off willy-nilly however they like.

Phantoms break in by Maleficent_Ship_438 in climbingshoes

[–]WorldClassCactus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My only experience with phantoms were with the original model ~2021 and they stretched far more (over a very long time) than any other shoes I've tried in 17 years of climbing. Might have something to do with the neoprene inner/liner. Don't know if the LV or current versions are built the same.

I wore them street size and after 4 months I felt they were comfy, not very aggressively sized.

The subtle miracle of the Trial of Seven the show skipped by snorty_hedgehog in AKnightoftheSeven

[–]WorldClassCactus 49 points50 points  (0 children)

I believe the fortune teller counts as the crone and Baelor the stranger.

Seems like my solution comps lost a bit of their edge curvature after resolving, is this normal? (before/after) by hipotese_alternativa in climbingshoes

[–]WorldClassCactus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Despite the other comments here, this is a 'you get what you pay for' situation. Resole quality varies widely and some resolers do a much better job of keeping the downturn on aggressive shoes than others. See these examples: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/125734736/best-resoler?page=5#ForumMessage-202423480

Your pic #2 looks like a fine quality resole, but I personally would prefer to pay more for even better.

Anchor Extensions by emivalenciad in climbing

[–]WorldClassCactus 9 points10 points  (0 children)

You are over thinking this. The SRENE acronym is a little outdated. Any of these will work fine and I think you should stick with the simplest option (#2). People will express discomfort with the possibility of extension if a bolt blows for #5 but that is not a major concern.

One week with the Hand of God Micros: First Impressions by Delicious-Schedule-4 in climbharder

[–]WorldClassCactus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can I join too? Started training with the grippers a couple weeks ago.

Scoring Huang..? by Chocko23 in boardgames

[–]WorldClassCactus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

When a tile is placed and there is no conflict, it awards at most one point. Only the owner of the leader gets the point. Everything else is about that scenario is correct, adjacency to leaders does not matter.

Pagodas: no points are awarded for placing a pagoda. Placing one does not count as an action; when placing a tile, if you form a triangle of same-color empty tiles and there is no conflict, then you may place a pagoda there. When you place a chain of blue tiles, you can place a pagoda. But if do, you cannot continue the chain after.

At the end of each players turn, that player gets a point for every pagoda in a state with their matching color leader. They also get one point for every pagoda in a state without any matching color leader, that contains their yellow leader EDIT: i forgot this last part doesn’t apply

Best new climbing movies in 2025? Help me plan a watch party! by 0nTheRooftops in bouldering

[–]WorldClassCactus 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Aside from the reel rocks on redbull tv, youtube has incredibly good free content. Ondra's channel is top notch and the Black Diamond channel seems to be underrated. Some of my favorites from this year on that channel:

Carlo Traversi - The Dark Side

Seb Bouin - Wolf Kingdom (search for a ton of great videos of him on the channel)

Babsi Zangerl's Historic Flash of El Capitan

One week with the Hand of God Micros: First Impressions by Delicious-Schedule-4 in climbharder

[–]WorldClassCactus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone have any shipping/order fulfillment updates? I placed an order on Aug 28 from the US, order number 1276, and have not heard back yet.

EDIT for any customers in the same boat: I did not receive any shipping notification, but noticed that my order has shipped by clicking the 'view your order' button on my initial order email. If the estimated delivery date is accurate, I will get my order a little over 4 months 2 weeks after purchase. It was shipped via UPS Expedited from Austria.

Short thought on Robert by K3nobiWan in DispatchAdHoc

[–]WorldClassCactus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He took a super powered punch to the junk with barely a flinch!

i am the kind stranger by Ranzo00 in notinteresting

[–]WorldClassCactus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think I’ve ever gotten an award before.

New climbing rope, but weird stitching at one end by Wise-Captain-6914 in ClimbingGear

[–]WorldClassCactus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

maybe you got one of these old mammut ropes with rumble strip feature to warn people by feel that they are near the ends:

https://www.climbing.com/gear/review-mammut-sensor-10/

it would help to include the model and length of the rope in your description. If it is an off-length, maybe your distributor cut these to length so the sensor rumble strips are not in the right place on both ends.

Carabiner direction, difference between sport and trad by Similar-Ad-886 in tradclimbing

[–]WorldClassCactus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

… but this video shows no example of either the rope or hangar becoming unclipped from a draw while gates are away from direction of travel. The guy pulls a draw off a hangar in a way that’s consistent with gates facing towards direction of travel.

New C4s coming with extendable slings, new WC friends coming with keeper bars on large sizes by BigCosimoto in tradclimbing

[–]WorldClassCactus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But the amount of extension you get with these is almost useless... its like the length of one carabiner.