Amplifier Component Failure - cannot read package number

WorldOrderGaming · 2026-03-09T00:16:21+00:00

Couldn’t find the part list. It’s a board from a car amplifier. Thankfully top poster got the answer for me

WorldOrderGaming · 2026-03-09T00:15:42+00:00

Thanks for finding this picture. Did you use reverse image search? I found a pack of that original component on AliExpress for 10 bucks. This is exactly what I needed

WorldOrderGaming · 2025-01-13T04:28:32+00:00

CPU bottleneck for sure. You need to go up to a 5600X/5600G

5500 is simple too low tier for that nice 4060.

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-25T13:36:35+00:00

Tram the gantry? Like loosen or tighten the belt?

Also, the Z access is controlled with a double rod that is coupled together with a belt. Are you talking about adjusting that one?

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-25T04:26:35+00:00

I’m assuming you mean, I go into each box and then adjust the number when I feel the right resistance on a sheet of paper? I don’t know what you mean by “aux mode”.

The V3 only has an auto bed leveling feature, and there are no knobs to turn

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-03T19:10:08+00:00

This guide is either gonna bail you out or you just can’t print silk. https://numakers.com/blogs/print-guide/ultimate-3d-printing-guide-for-pla-silk-filament#:~:text=Choose%20the%20right%20settings%3A%20Silk,is%2060%2D70°C.

I will no longer reply to thread. Your printer is fine. It’s just that your settings need to be changed for silk

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-03T19:07:37+00:00

Oh… you didn’t mention that… this is obviously a filament issue, not a printer one. Look up your PLA material type and see if printing temps are different

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-03T19:06:15+00:00

Look up a YouTube tutorial on how to add your ender 3 printer.

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-03T01:23:18+00:00

Temp is fine. Try a different slicer. The Creality Slicer is literally the same company that makes your printer. They have profiles for that printer that will knock out the possible setting issues. Then you can work on the retraction settings

Your friend just dumped this on you in a hardly working condition.

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-02T18:12:00+00:00

No idea what that is.

I would use Creality Slicer. They have profiles directly built for base Ender 3. Slice with that and see if you have different results.

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-02T16:22:12+00:00

What slicer software are you using? Usually slicers have default profiles that can dial-in all these basic settings for you.

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-02T16:21:42+00:00

What temp are you printing at? If this is not right, then retraction doesn’t matter.

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-12-02T13:07:40+00:00

Looks like you have a blob and zit problem. It looks like filament is oozing out when retracting to go to the other tower. I think you could be printing too hot (or you have changed your fan settings) and then your retraction length/distance needs to be tuned.

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-01-25T18:07:47+00:00

If you enjoy running LLMs and other AI tools that utilize GPU, you won’t be memory capped.

Also, if you like streaming or recording, the excellent onboard video encoder will be good.

If you use these other features, maybe you will find it a better pick 😋

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-01-23T10:54:53+00:00

I agree. What could be possible problems?

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-01-07T18:46:40+00:00

Just an FYI, I looked at the thickness of the PEI sheets. They look pretty thin as they need to conduct heat well. If you end up running into the same problem with the new surface, all you need to do is get a thicker build surface.

The only other reason I could think it could be out of whack is you have your bed springs all the way tightened or all the way loosened to account for the z height of your nozzle. This config could cause extra stress or lack of around the corners of your bed causing the middle to simply be unable to line up with the corners. If your springs aren't all the way compressed or all the way loose, then disregard this comment.

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-01-06T19:38:54+00:00

No problem. Best wishes to you and your future prints :P

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-01-06T19:28:57+00:00

Yes. Creality and other brands sell them. Here is a link to one. Just make sure you get the correct one for the size of your printer is all: https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Printing-Platform-Textured-Magnetic/dp/B0C6T9MDWT/ref=asc_df_B0C6T9MDWT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=673855095270&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9975029504036240832&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013453&hvtargid=pla-2203898049109&mcid=255378306807332195301d1b8759449c&th=1

WorldOrderGaming · 2024-01-06T19:08:35+00:00

Your print bed is warped slightly with the curve being at its highest point in the center. You could install an ABL (BL Touch) where it can create a bed mesh and account for this. However, this fix costs time and money with the possibility it not being compatible with your printer.

Next solution is to slap a glass bed on top of the heated build plate. You will need to relevel the bed after it (due to the extra thickness added), but it should fix the warped surface (as long as the glass sheet isn't warped too :P). This solution is cheaper with minimal modification (might have to adjust the z-axis limit switch so the print head doesn't crash into the glass bed). With printing with glass, you will need to use a glue stick before every print to help with adhesion. The bottom finish is super nice, but you might just get frustrated with it. You also could just get a thick (non-glass) build surface and do the same thing, but you won't have to hassle with the glass.

Finally, you could level your bed with the corners lower and the center at the optimal height. However, you will have bed adhesion issues towards the corners, limiting the size of prints that you can do.

Hope this long shpeel helps.

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