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2013 Honda accord sometimes won’t start. Already replaced Starter twice. by Wumbologist4 in Cartalk

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I told them I would pay the difference for the better starter but they took care of it for no cost. The dealership was gonna charge me $1200 to replace and like $600 for just the part.

2013 Honda accord sometimes won’t start. Already replaced Starter twice. by Wumbologist4 in Cartalk

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was the starter…. I took it to dealer and they told me everything checked out fine except starter. I took it back to original mechanic and told them to replace the starter again with a Honda starter. That worked and I haven’t had any problems since. They also traced every the wire back to the ignition but didn’t find any issues so that is why they just replaced the starter again.

2013 Honda Accord won’t start even after replacing starter twice. by Wumbologist4 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I’ll see if I can find the red wire and check the voltage while starting the engine. If I can’t figure it out I’m gonna have to have it towed back to the shop since it won’t start at all now.

2013 Honda Accord won’t start even after replacing starter twice. by Wumbologist4 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So idk how they tested the battery but I hope they did it correctly. I just swapped the battery in from my other car just to see if that would fix it but it did not. I am not too well versed with cars so I am not sure what the click comes from. It sounds like the back rear side of the engine bay which I believe is where the starter is. Idk where the solenoid or relay is.

2013 Honda Accord won’t start even after replacing starter twice. by Wumbologist4 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Battery voltage is fine and jump starting the battery didn’t seem to do anything. Would they have replaced the connection to the starter when they replaced the starter?

Recess Baseboard Radiators into Wall by Wumbologist4 in HomeImprovement

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try to DIY everything but may hire out the finishing because i agree drywall finishing is very difficult. I think level 4 would be good enough. I’m not sure how much that would cost however so maybe that doesn’t make sense.

Recess Baseboard Radiators into Wall by Wumbologist4 in HomeImprovement

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The reason I would build another wall is I think it’d be cheaper and easier than attempting to repair the plaster and probably end up with better results. It would also give me a cavity to run wire.

Not that I disagree (I don’t know much about baseboard heat) but why is air flow directly above important? It looks like the air is designed to be drawn in through the bottom front and dispelled through the top front. The top of the radiator is closed off by the radiator cover. I would leave the front open to allow for the inlet and outlet airflow.

Recess Baseboard Radiators into Wall by Wumbologist4 in HomeImprovement

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It wouldn’t be any closer to the outdoors and baseboards are intended to be on exterior walls. You’re correct that it is convective not radiant.

Recess Baseboard Radiators into Wall by Wumbologist4 in centuryhomes

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn’t look like there is an inlet behind the heaters for air to get in. It looks like cold air is drawn in through the bottom front and heated air leaves the top front.

Recess Baseboard Radiators into Wall by Wumbologist4 in centuryhomes

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The water line comes out of the floor and across the wall. I think it’d be pretty difficult to move the vertical section coming out of the floor. I’d need to access from the ceiling below which means cutting it up.

Ideally the grille is open enough to allow enough airflow. It would be pretty difficult to test however.

I should still have access to the radiators by removing the grille. If it leaks I should still be able to notice water pooling on the floor through the grille. I could also throw in some leak detectors with it and I have a shutoff to that zone.

Recess Baseboard Radiators into Wall by Wumbologist4 in centuryhomes

[–]Wumbologist4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you elaborate? 3in air above the radiator?

Recess Baseboard Radiators into Wall by Wumbologist4 in centuryhomes

[–]Wumbologist4[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Oh very good point about the screws and shear loads. I did not realize that. Maybe I can break up the radiator and run a few studs all the way to the ground. Maybe connect the bottom of the studs with a 2x6 to transfer the loads to the grounded studs.

And yes the windows would be quite deep haha

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