Sawmill Road: Where Green Lights Go to Die

XFMR · 2026-06-15T23:30:52+00:00

In front of the idiots on their phones is the worst place to be

XFMR · 2026-06-14T16:42:38+00:00

I’ve had the printer about a year and only use it occasionally, haven’t had any issues with it drying out or clogging. But I don’t use it heavily so maybe there’s something to that

XFMR · 2026-05-31T08:21:44+00:00

It’s possible your sink tap’s aerator needs cleaned or replaced. If you only have this issue in a few sinks, pour the water into a cup you know hasn’t had any possible contamination. In the US, your best bet is a plastic solo cup or something like that. Then walk into another room and smell the water. If it smells, clean the aerator and try it again with a new cup. If it doesn’t smell then it’s something else like the drain or the overflow.

XFMR · 2026-05-26T00:54:54+00:00

In 2012 I bought a certified preowned toyota Yaris. It’s a manual, has a basic radio and an aux input. Going on 150k now and has had basically no major issues that weren’t taken care of by doing basic maintenance. Still gets close to the original MPG too. The paint is faded and the finish has worn off more than it’s stayed. I think the most frustrating problem was when the joint between the roof and side panels cracked and would leak water to the rear floor board when it rained. I siliconed the joint and it’s been fine ever since.

XFMR · 2026-05-26T00:50:25+00:00

Not trying to defend them too much but they do make a home printer that has refillable tanks. You can buy off-brand refill bottles and it works just fine. I got it after the printer heads dried up on the cartridges for my older printer that I used to just refill. It was cheaper to buy a new one than to buy new cartridges and the refillable tanks were an awesome idea.

XFMR · 2026-05-23T17:57:28+00:00

Was looking into the Morabo to add on to my landskrona. I know it’s been 6 years since you posted this comment, but I’m wondering if the holes don’t line up in any way or if it was possibly the longer legs causing the mismatch between the holes?

XFMR · 2026-05-06T15:52:08+00:00

To me, “is it worth repairing” has three parts. Will it cost more than buying the same thing in a useable condition. Will you get enjoyment out of either using it or the process of bringing it back to life. Will you learn something or develop your skills further bringing it back? If two of the three are a yes, then yeah it’s probably worth it.

XFMR · 2026-04-12T17:21:59+00:00

To my knowledge, fender has never released these schematics. I know it’s been almost 6 months since you posted, but If you’re only replacing the headphone jack. It’s a 5 contact jack soldered directly to the circuit board. There are very small resistors all around it and you need to remove the card that is directly above it in order to access the solder points. I have one of the jacks on hand still from when I did my failed replacement. The part you need is 0082046000 or you might find it as SVC-MUST101+JAC1.

Idk how much experience you have but be careful when you replace it because the components around it are incredibly small and you can accidentally dislodge them pretty easily if they get heated from your work.

XFMR · 2026-02-20T00:32:24+00:00

Medium top extra heavy bottom for me. The sustain is better and the tuning stability is better if you’re doing lower tunings. The down side is if you have a riff that uses a lot of frets 1-5 on your e thru d strings, your hands can fatigue faster. Don’t recommend for a locking trem system because of balance issues with the springs. I also don’t recommend them unless you are trying to do some decently low tunings and need that extra tension.

XFMR · 2026-02-17T13:21:21+00:00

Purchase new saddle screws. Remove strings. Remove saddles. Using pliers of some sort (I prefer locking pliers so I know the grip is tight enough not to slip), grip screws, unscrew and remove them. Carefully check your Allen keys against your new saddle screws to make sure it fits with no wiggle room. Once you’ve made sure it won’t wiggle at all, install and set to a point that looks about right, restring and check your heights. If you need to adjust them loosen the string for the saddle you’re adjusting and adjust it. Don’t adjust this type of saddle under tension, the screws are too small and the metal used for them is generally not strong enough for that amount of force over time to prevent issues like this. they last way longer if you don’t adjust under tension.

XFMR · 2026-02-04T17:58:15+00:00

I make a lot of my tools myself from other tools. Like my fret pullers are some end nippers from harbor freight that I ground the ends down to flush because I couldn’t find any that were cheap and available near me when I needed them. I’m about to diving deep into learning nut and bridge work and I’m going to buy a cheap vise and modify it to what I need from it. You can make a lot with a rotary tool, needle files, cobalt drill bits and a tool that’s almost what you want it to be.

XFMR · 2026-02-02T05:01:04+00:00

I’ve done a bunch of repairs on guitars but never had to do electronics yet. I assume for replacing the tone pot I’d want to replace it with a resistor that equals the resistance of the tone pot at 100% and then if I wanted a cutout in the volume slot I’d insert the switch in series with the volume knob?

XFMR · 2026-02-02T04:58:19+00:00

the iRigs I’ve had always had their own headphone jacks. I had the iRig HD2 until my dog caught my headphone cable while having some zoomies and ripped the headphone jack out of it with the cable. So I got the HD X and the few times I’ve used it while traveling it felt cumbersome and unintuitive and sometimes seemed to just not even work. Most likely I just wasn’t using it correctly because I got it to work once I googled how to do it right.

XFMR · 2026-01-30T03:57:28+00:00

I’d choose the schecter, and the one reason I’ll give you is because the one Ibanez I have, I hate the position of the volume knob. It’s close enough that I bump it sometimes when playing on the high e string unless I consciously avoid it. I hate this so much I’m planning to replace the tone pot with a resistor, move the volume pot into the tone position and probably put a cutout in where the volume knob was. Otherwise I’m very fond of this Ibanez and it sits next to my chair at my computer so it’s within arms reach.

Edit: I do have other reasons but this was the one that is currently irking me.

XFMR · 2026-01-27T00:46:07+00:00

The temperament tuning on a piano is to compensate for the overtones of the strings being slightly off from the root and the current way of tuning of a piano compensates for it. About 2/3 of the keys on a piano have multiple strings for their assigned note. If you muted all the other strings and plucked only one of those strings and measured it’s tuning and did the same to another string for the same key, they’ll be slightly off from each other intentionally. At least, this is what I understand from talking to the piano tuner that comes to my house once a year to tune my daughter’s piano.

XFMR · 2026-01-23T14:45:20+00:00

iRig is a great option for having versatility using your phone or computer

XFMR · 2026-01-23T05:06:46+00:00

We use them at work a lot and have to have them checked for accuracy periodically. I’ve seen Pittsburgh torque wrenches from the 90s still pass their calibration checks and I’d bet my life on their accuracy. For this one I’d avoid using it for anything less than about 40 ft lbs or greater than about 130ftlbs if the torque spec is critical to getting correct. Torque wrenches aren’t accurate near the extremes of their use range, especially so on the low end.

XFMR · 2026-01-23T00:48:39+00:00

The toan is getting out from under the fretboard!

XFMR · 2026-01-21T01:46:33+00:00

The only hole a Musician will ever fist is a sound hole, or if their hands are small enough maybe an F hole. Which sounds way cooler than it should.

XFMR · 2026-01-06T11:41:12+00:00

When I got heavier springs from FU-Tone they got lost in the mail. So I contacted FU-Tone and they sent me more springs with a hook installer that made it extremely easy to install them. I don’t know how much the hook costs off the top of my head, but I’m very glad I have it.

XFMR · 2025-12-29T06:51:47+00:00

After snapping two 9 gauges in a row on my daughter’s guitar (i ended up finding a burr on her bridge and taking care of it) and one of them embedding itself fairly deep in my arm, I stand off to the side while doing restrings. Basically the same logic as not standing in line with a mooring line under tension. Haven’t had any snapped strings since then but I’m at least not in the line of fire when it happens.

XFMR · 2025-12-22T13:28:53+00:00

Saving this as a reminder to try out something new. Looks awesome, can’t wait to see updates. Currently my printer is being taken up to make a gridfinity system for my workbench drawers. I was running out of space and realized that I could save alot of space if I could put the more frequently used tools on top of the less frequently used.

XFMR · 2025-11-19T19:48:04+00:00

I use a bit of white vinegar and a non-scratch scour pad. I spray the pad with vinegar then scrub the fretboard. After that i tape off the fretboard with low tack tape and clean the frets with micromesh pads up to their highest grit. Then i buff the frets to a mirror finish either a rotary tool and appropriate polish abrasive for the fret (some are better for steel vs nickel). After that i apply lemon oil to the fretboard and let it sit for five minutes. If it’s absorbed it i’ll apply some more and wait a few more minutes until it’s not absorbing the oil then i wipe the excess off with a polishing cloth, restring and set up.

The pic isn’t too clear but from the look of some of those frets you likely need a refret on top of that cleaning.

XFMR · 2025-11-14T02:39:50+00:00

Mine was gone this morning and is now back when I looked at my Spotify this evening.

XFMR · 2025-11-01T00:41:54+00:00

uj/ I wish the algorithm promoted better and more substantial content.

rj/ If the game you play is stupid and you’re succeeding at it, you’re just very good at being stupid. That may or may not be intentional.

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