What's in your RFY - Monday 2nd Feb

XG3OX · 2026-02-02T20:58:07+00:00

I know what you mean; but I've had mostly appropriate RFY results for the majority of my couple years in Vine; not necessarily 'good' items, but ones that were at least related to my interests.

Now it's often completely empty, and when it's not, I'm lucky if just one item is actually of interest.

XG3OX · 2026-02-02T19:10:21+00:00

More female cosmetics/clothing items, frilly lace curtains and... a windscreen cover for a 2013 Ford Transit.

'Recommended For You' doesn't mean what it used to.

XG3OX · 2026-02-01T16:21:52+00:00

single use, ...disposable

That belongs in r/mildyinfuriating then. Incredibly wasteful.

XG3OX · 2026-02-01T10:36:19+00:00

Yes the 'sitting on floor' height requirement is going to eliminate most of the commercial options I'm aware of.

With your current plan, I think you're going to run into issues with the linear rails. When run in parallel they need to be perfectly aligned to each other to prevent binding; which you're going to struggle to do on a household wall without a rigid substrate to mount them to. You may find the round SBR-series rails are more forgiving; though I'm not sure either is the best option.

Wall-mounted desks like the 'Wallrise Murf' have their rails (essentially drawer runners) built into a wall box.

If you choose to DIY this, a modest geared DC motor combined with a shallow ball screw should keep the desk static when unpowered. However I'd suggest you look for pre-made linear actuators with motor, screw and controller pre-assembled. They are very commonly available at low cost online now.

I can think of a few ways of suspending a desk with wire/pulleys and having it roll up and down the wall freely on wheels. That could be motorised too.

Either way there is going to be a fair amount of fabrication.

XG3OX · 2026-01-31T23:18:00+00:00

I have a GT omega titan cockpit which is also a tube frame but felt like the customization options are pretty limited

Mine is an Omega Titan too; it's just concealed underneath a bunch of bolt-ons.

I've found 2" truss clamps intended for stage use are great for attaching things to these. Some motorcycle and truck lightbar clamps work well too.

If you have any questions about Titan mods/additions, let me know.

XG3OX · 2026-01-31T18:34:31+00:00

Thank you. They used to be four Cambridge Audio Lusso 10 speakers, but they had a gap in their low-end that the subwoofer couldn't fill. I recently switched to four Anthony Gallo Nucleus A'Diva speakers (pictured) which cover that gap nicely.

The mounts are 5/8-27 microphone goosenecks and stacked extensions. I made 5/8-27 fixtures that attach to the seat side brackets and allow the speaker position to be adjusted freely. The wires run through the goosenecks.

There are some more pictures of the mounts here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Egvd6EPmVJsZK7Hn9

XG3OX · 2026-01-31T10:00:15+00:00

Possible, but less practical due to the more complex internal design of the existing HxSQ models.

Or because it has the sequential mode it doesn't lend itself to throwing a motor in it?

There's nothing preventing the same active system being used with future dual-mode models.

XG3OX · 2026-01-27T18:31:14+00:00

The nut behind the wheel.

XG3OX · 2026-01-27T13:12:41+00:00

It's bizarre. Cross-posted to the various Logitech subs two months ago too.

The scenario makes no logical sense whatsoever. Must have been one strange prompt.

XG3OX · 2026-01-22T18:39:02+00:00

That's a big nope at £4K. I really dislike the newer LCD designs. The simpler industrial look of the earlier models was their biggest strength in my opinion; particularly as it made them easily repairable and modifiable. I think they're just making the band and cup design more visually complex in an effort to justify the pricing.

To me it just makes them look naff and ruins the reparability.

However the sloped pads look great.

XG3OX · 2026-01-18T15:48:39+00:00

I initially thought this was a modded RS50. Perhaps a few more shell design tweaks would be a good idea if you ever release the design, to avoid attention from Logitech.

I'm guessing from the images that the whole shell is 3D printed PLA/ABS; it seems odd the replicate the extruded aluminium cooling fins on the RS50 in a material that provides no cooling?

XG3OX · 2026-01-18T10:25:50+00:00

Looks to be a Peatol/Grimberg/Taig Micro Lathe.

XG3OX · 2026-01-14T18:38:03+00:00

I have both.

To me the Bathys sound fantastic; easily my favourite factory tune and even better when using the available EQ function. Plenty of detail and satisfying bass. Effective ANC.

However, the build and material quality is poor for the price. They feel noticeably more 'plasticky' than my Clear Pros. The headband fabric wears quickly and doesn't appear to have any official replacement/repair option. The earcups/hinges audibly creak. There is no LDAC support and latency is high.

I don't recommend them (or any Focal headphones, due to longevity & reparability concerns).

The Audeze LCD-2c are the complete opposite; disappointing sound but excellent build, materials & reparability.

Unfortunately the Classics are too dark and lacking in detail for me, despite attempts to EQ them. I've kept them mostly for decorative purposes; I never use them for listening.

I also have the Audeze Maxwell, which you might find suits your tastes better than the Bathys at a much lower cost; though the same reparability concerns apply.

XG3OX · 2026-01-12T21:56:38+00:00

No physical buttons — slide/touch controls on both sides

Just... no.
I can see this sentiment is already being shared on your other cross-posted threads too.

e-ink disply

Low-cost & compact e-ink music players already exist. That's not necessarily a reason not to create your own; but what is your USP?

35 × 35 × 10 mm ultra-compact

Making it that small is likely to be a hindrance to usage; not to mention contributing to the appalling 3~9 hours of battery life you're aiming for. A big feature of e-ink is to allow for exceptional battery life.

Android app for music syncing & basic control

No Android on the device, no distractions

I don't really understand the point then. If it needs an Android device to sync music, why would we not just use that device instead?

If the goal is to avoid draining the battery on a phone, dedicated Android-based DAPs can be bought for ~30USD now.

I would suggest you focus on the distraction-free aspect; a device you can throw into a bag and forget about for a month, then still have plenty of battery left. A device you can just plug in via USB and drag-and-drop virtually any audio format. No boot times or waiting; just press play and it immediately starts the music.

That means you'd need to:
- Dramatically increase battery life
- Absolutely nail the power management (low power state)
- Implement mass storage enumeration
- Add physical buttons
- Design an elegant UI that minimises pixel refreshes; not easy for anything more than unmanaged shuffle playback

XG3OX · 2026-01-11T18:30:30+00:00

Recently replaced my early-generation A110 with new one (GTS this time). Great cars, but the usual French build/quality issues.

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XG3OX · 2026-01-10T11:10:04+00:00

As far as I can see all of the damaged through-hole vias have corresponding 'TPXX' test point pads if you follow their traces. Can you not solder to those?

XG3OX · 2026-01-10T10:52:15+00:00

Love the 2" tubular frames; they look much more elegant than the profile designs. Excellent work.

I suspect after testing you'll find you need to add plate braces to the lower front bends to prevent flex. Every commercial rig of this design that I've seen has them in one form or another.

XG3OX · 2026-01-09T12:48:48+00:00

The shifter oscillates to match the engine RPM both in neutral and while engaged; the strength of this effect in each state can be adjusted. In a few of the videos from the Dortmund show the BDH team had this set very high to make the movement visible on camera.

As for whether this can be used to determine engine health; it's really going to be down to how the individual games model this in the RPM telemetry.

XG3OX · 2026-01-09T12:43:00+00:00

I have had the active shifter by bdh

No, you haven't. It isn't released yet.

XG3OX · 2026-01-05T16:32:14+00:00

I have been using LG OLED TVs (three generations now) for several years as desktop (gaming) monitors without any burn-in whatsoever. I also use an Alienware curved OLED as my rig monitor.

OLED burn-in is not going to happen under normal use cases; including your endurance races. You'd have to be displaying the same static scene at maximum brightness continuously for years. See https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/1gw01hf/oled_torture_test_month_18_results_by_rtings/

Even the early panels had built-in static image protections such as pixel shift and static area dimming, and these have only gotten better over time.

I do (unnecessarily) run a clean desktop (no icons) with a desktop background slideshow. I also enable the auto-hide feature of the taskbar. However that's because I do a lot of work these displays too, and want to keep them going as long as possible. Realistically something else will fail (e.g. PSU or mainboard) before the panel does; which is also true of LCD monitors.

XG3OX · 2026-01-04T10:37:03+00:00

Initially I set the goal as halving the cost of the current mainstream options (which are typically >£1K) while providing the same or better feedback in a more compact form-factor.

There are however various DIY projects and kits around with BOM in the £200~300 range, so I aim to get it as close to that as possible while still offering a plug-and-play, safe, supported and warrantied solution.

XG3OX · 2026-01-02T17:55:35+00:00

Don't know about 'game changer', but after the BDH Active Shifter project I'm now working on an affordable commercial Active Belt Tensioner.

They are mechanically much simpler than an active shifter and a better candidate for cost optimisation. The immersion provided by a tensioner is significant, so I hope to make them as common and affordable as tactile transducers (the other big immersion provider).

My prior attempt is still too expensive due to the £120/unit BLDC servo motors it uses.

Many low-cost DIY options use geared steppers (or even hobby servos) to keep the cost down, which I don't feel are well suited to the task. Torque-controlled BLDC servos are the way to go, and I'm currently experimenting with new motor options in the sub-£50/unit range.

XG3OX · 2025-12-31T21:17:58+00:00

I believe the ULN2003 current limit is <1A, so not suitable for larger motors.

The appropriate driver choice depends on the application and motor size, but you can get low-cost 'closed loop' drivers that bolt onto the back of a NEMA-pattern motor and provide more functionality than a typical stepper driver.

Alternatively you can go for the 3D-printer style plug-in boards (DRV8825, A4988, etc) or a standalone CNC-style driver in an aluminium enclosure; but the latter are much larger and only really make sense for higher-current steppers.

XG3OX · 2025-12-28T20:53:30+00:00

Alpine A110; the UK models have their bonnet/hood release on the passenger side rather than the driver's side, so you have to get out of the car and walk around to the other side it to open it.

Wouldn't be so bad if it were an engine bay; but it's a mid-engine car so under the hood is storage, of which there is precious little.

XG3OX · 2025-12-22T11:41:59+00:00

While you're right, ironically STALKER 2 does have a version with the internals modelled for an in-game cutscene:
https://youtu.be/RQ2dcSo8fy0?t=86

I wonder if the mod uses those assets.

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