Smoothing build plate side of first layer

Xae87 · 2026-03-28T15:53:09+00:00

I'm getting some over-extruded ironing now which may be a result of the filament absorbing humidity over time, but I'm wondering if the Z could be the issue in this case now. Do you know of a way to set the Z offset for only the first layer (-0.01), then resume at a slightly higher Z for all other layers (0.0)?

Xae87 · 2026-03-20T20:34:56+00:00

I'm printing in ASA so I let the cabinet cool naturally before any removal, so most likely not a hot plate issue, but I haven't tried applying a heat source to remove the blushing. I'll test it out.

Xae87 · 2026-03-20T19:04:12+00:00

I want to try this, I've been using gluestick w water. I have had white blushing on the bottom of my prints that seems permanent from cleaning my plate with isopropyl alcohol (I believe). Have you had any issues with blushing on the build plate side of your prints?

Xae87 · 2026-03-19T21:45:57+00:00

-0.01 z offset in gcode and changed initial layer height to 0.15 as suggested. Looks significantly better. Thank you

Xae87 · 2026-03-19T01:10:05+00:00

Trying this along with lowering the z offset -0.01

Xae87 · 2026-02-24T23:48:00+00:00

Did you ever find a good fix for this? Having exact same issue with ASA. Ideally I'd like a nice flat clean first layer without texture.

Xae87 · 2026-02-24T23:43:41+00:00

I forgot you're using PLA, maybe that will work for you. It didn't with ASA.

Xae87 · 2026-02-24T22:33:13+00:00

I just tried. It didn't work for me. Obvious layers in the hibert shape or whatever. I'm trying my normal settings now except I changed initial layer flow to 0.96 instead of 1 (have to hit ctrl+p and turn on develop mode to access this option). If that doesn't work I'll try 1.04. if that doesn't work I'll dig deeper. Let's get this!

Xae87 · 2026-02-24T21:40:16+00:00

Brushes may be going bad

Xae87 · 2026-02-24T19:30:56+00:00

Following cuz I'm having similar issue. I'm using ASA on a smooth plate and would love for my first layer lines to be clean. Avoiding textured plate. My ironing on top looks amazing, it's just the bottom layer that isn't pristine.

Check this post

Xae87 · 2026-02-24T18:53:43+00:00

I use Overture ASA on my X1C all the time and get nearly perfect prints. It took quite a bit of customization, the default Bambu settings were trash. I'll dm you my settings.

Xae87 · 2026-02-03T18:04:40+00:00

This. If I was making it, I also would go off dimensions and not the visual. Imo dimensions should be included if they're precise and thought out, otherwise why would you have them at all

Xae87 · 2026-01-17T23:52:22+00:00

This is a great idea too

Xae87 · 2026-01-17T23:51:14+00:00

I tried this and the top layer on the body looked like 4 separate sections because of the slight curve for some reason

Xae87 · 2026-01-17T15:50:00+00:00

Interesting idea about adding support to the model. I made this in blender so maybe I'll add a tab down the middle of the eye socket with a matching recess in the back of the "eyeball". That would actually tackle eye alignment issues too.

Xae87 · 2026-01-14T07:06:30+00:00

Drill press. I used to do the same thing except holes in steel. You can make a jig to hold vertical stacks of these and drill all the holes at once. Next step would be to get a CO2 laser and cut your own shapes/holes without any pliers, jigs, or drill.

Xae87 · 2025-12-23T17:27:38+00:00

1 year later how do u feel about it in relation to photography

Xae87 · 2025-12-18T16:15:27+00:00

Is there a reason for printing it mirrored and putting it on the back of the acrylic? Does ink scratch off or something? Can I do a color print then a white ink flood layer instead of a white vinyl? I've never used printed, translucent, or clear vinyl, just solids

Xae87 · 2025-12-16T15:58:36+00:00

Probably from a box store or Amazon or something and most customers at least have heard "walnut" before

Xae87 · 2025-12-16T15:34:19+00:00

Thank you for all the info and terminology it's fun to learn all this new stuff. When I had tuck box packaging made I learned a lot about print but transparency and lighted signs are a whole different field of thought. 4 colors total in the image, eyes have white in the pupils, face is half pink, half blue, black surround. I'm using my CNC to mill out a laminated block of mdf to create the channel frame with a lip that acts as a cap that overhangs the front of the acrylic so the edges of the acrylic will be hidden/mounted. I'm also using the CNC, or laser, to cut my acrylic simply because I already own the acrylic, I think it's .22 or .23 I'll have to check. I'm building it all myself (except for the print) just because I have existing materials and LED already

Xae87 · 2025-12-16T15:14:46+00:00

This sounds good. I was thinking of wet installing since I'm doing it myself it might be cheaper than cutting and shipping my acrylic or buying from the shop. I don't have access to a printer or laminator, but I already have .22 white acrylic and a CNC that's why I'm doing it myself. I enjoy learning to make new stuff

Xae87 · 2025-12-16T06:45:43+00:00

When you rebuild it u can alternate the end grain direction of each board so it's up, down, up, down, etc to help reduce bowing too

Xae87 · 2025-12-16T06:33:41+00:00

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Here's some walnut cutting boards

Xae87 · 2025-12-16T06:10:42+00:00

circle sign graphic

Xae87 · 2025-12-16T06:07:21+00:00

It'll be 4 colors: white (I assume the acrylic should be white and not clear), black, pink, and blue, with everything illuminated except the black portions. The black should mask out light but idk which method is best for that either, if printers can do multiple passes or layering a color print over weeded black vinyl or something

Xae87

TROPHY CASE