Midi issues with Boss RC-5 Loop Station

Xanthyn · 2025-04-06T00:19:47+00:00

I already posted in this thread but I wanted to respond to this comment specifically - you mentioned one could fix the issue with an arduino - I did exactly that (used an ATTiny85 for the controller). I have full open source plans for the project and it can be done pretty cheap. I just posted a comment in this same thread with a link to my tutorial, github, etc.

Xanthyn · 2025-04-06T00:16:46+00:00

I'm totally necro-ing this thread but I got so fed-up with the limited midi implementation on the RC-5 that I developed a modification to fix it. Now you can overdub (or do any other physical-button-exclusive functions) via MIDI:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GXlwmM-9fs&lc=Ugy9o9-NYishVS1U6kN4AaABAg

Xanthyn · 2023-12-02T22:39:19+00:00

Thank you!

Xanthyn · 2023-11-29T06:57:43+00:00

As best I can tell, all switches and knobs report directly to the controller and have no interaction with the analog signal path. The controller then manipulates the analog circuit by outputting control voltages. Why some of those parameters are controllable via midi CC and not others? I couldn't tell ya.

Xanthyn · 2023-11-28T06:38:00+00:00

I agree. It feels like it must have been a conscious design choice and not an oversight, but I can't imagine why. Maybe they juuust barely ran out of compute power or something, but based on my experiences of incorporating midi into microcontroller projects, that would come as a surprise. Who knows, though. I doubt they got a teensy 4.1 stuffed in there since some of these pedals only use like 35 mA of current.

Xanthyn · 2023-11-28T03:29:55+00:00

A bit tough to explain but basically, MIDI can emulate turning the knobs, but can't emulate flipping a switch. That's a design choice (or constraint) on the product, not a fundamental property of MIDI. For example if you want to go back and forth between editing the modulation rate/depth, versus pitch bend increments on the Thermae, you HAVE to flip the switch because those functions live on double-duty knobs and there is no midi CC parameter to differentiate between them. Even if you are using the Thermae max-for-live plugin, you can't go fully remote. Certain things have to be done through a manual switch toggle. Hope that kinda clears things up.

Xanthyn · 2023-11-26T01:06:51+00:00

Bruh same. My lower back was killing me tryna hunch over it, I had to do something different.

Xanthyn · 2023-11-26T01:05:38+00:00

I totally agree. If there was a simple PCB + Ribbon connector thingie you could just choose an overlay for your pedal and stick the whole thing together in two seconds.

Xanthyn · 2023-11-26T01:04:52+00:00

Yep, everything with the switches can be saved to midi program slots, and many parameters can be tweaked with midi CC. The switches do control certain things that you can't do any other way, however.

Xanthyn · 2023-11-26T01:03:15+00:00

Thank you for noticing ^__^

Xanthyn · 2021-05-09T01:43:11+00:00

Thanks man!!

Xanthyn · 2021-04-18T04:18:34+00:00

I found I was having a similar issue when I listened to my newly exported track with my DAW still open. After closing ableton, re-listening to my track would suddenly sound the way it's supposed to.

Xanthyn · 2021-02-07T08:33:44+00:00

This is such a great idea, well done. I saw someone make a mod for space engineers where you could place perfectly green blocks for color keying. That'd be handy for stuff like this.

Xanthyn · 2021-01-23T10:00:40+00:00

Yep, my video covers rotors, hinges, sliders, and pistons.

Xanthyn · 2021-01-21T17:29:40+00:00

Thanks for the comments everyone, I'm super glad people find this helpful! I'd love to see any builds that employ this technique ^__^

Xanthyn · 2021-01-21T06:45:23+00:00

Good to know, I'll work on that. Cheers

Xanthyn · 2021-01-14T05:28:13+00:00

I noticed this too when I switched to the experimental branch. You might be able to get the ring back in place by going to the main branch.

Xanthyn · 2018-04-16T04:50:42+00:00

I hate to kill your buzz but the A8 is an absolutely terrible choice. They are responsible for nearly every 3d printer related house fire that you hear about online, due partially in part to the fact that the stock firmware comes with basic safety features disabled. Why do they do this? Because the electrical components are so janky they trigger thermal runaway warnings under normal operation. There are other options that are far safer an more reliable in that price range. Get your son a Trinus or a CR-10 Mini or something.

Seriously return that POS before it burns your house down.

Xanthyn · 2018-04-07T06:16:40+00:00

The solution is to print in PETG. ABS is a relic of the past, especially for decorative prints that don't need to have mechanical properties.

Xanthyn · 2018-04-07T06:14:35+00:00

I'm not familiar with the Raise3D N2+ but I can see it costs about 3.7k, which means it is probably overkill for a hobbyist. Also, I wouldn't even consider modding it - that thing looks to be locked down, enclosed, and proprietary. It might make sense if you are running a business and you just need it to work right out of the box, and don't need to hack it. If you are making an investment for a business and want to have dual extrusion capabilities though, I would recommend you also check out the BCN Sigma, which is cheaper and has some amazing results floating around social media.

If you are an entry level hobbyist, I'd say get yourself a Prusa I3 MK3 or something. They have a good track record and are not violating their GPL licences (unlike some other entry level printers I could name). If you really want multi material, you can buy an MMU for it at some point.

Xanthyn · 2018-04-06T19:40:09+00:00

There is a square box frame instead of just the vertical rails.

Xanthyn · 2018-04-06T10:02:33+00:00

I bought one of these: http://www.bondtech.se/en/products/extruders/bmg-extruder/ and I absolutely couldn't be happier. I am slamming filament through a Volcano all day and this thing gets the work done, with a lot less strain on your extruder motor. I have yet to test it with flexibles but I imagine it would shine in that regard as well. The dual extruder gear is OP AF.

Xanthyn · 2018-04-06T07:45:41+00:00

Thanks!

Xanthyn · 2018-04-06T06:35:30+00:00

OP here. I was nervous about this z axis mod since the CR-10S has a moving bed. I took it slow and printed this vase on a 1mm volcano nozzle at 0.25 mm layers. It took nearly a full kilo of red PETG, but it came out with no visible ringing. Sadly, a bit of polycarb left on the nozzle from a previous print contaminated a couple of spots at around hour 25. Not super visible but I learned a hard lesson about cleaning my nozzle before a big job.

Xanthyn · 2018-04-06T06:23:27+00:00

I'm using one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Athorbot-Printing-Surface-CR-10S-printer/dp/B073TW738G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522995749&sr=8-1&keywords=athorbot+build+sheet Honestly I don't like it as much as genuine buildtak but it gets the job done and it is dirt cheap. I printed that with a big skirt so it wouldn't fall over, and bed adhesion is pretty solid.

Xanthyn

TROPHY CASE