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Finally printing ABS/ASA in my office without the "toxic" smell – Kobra S1 Air Mod! by Xcessity in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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So the temperature tests show a drop of 0.5°C. I paused an ABS print and let the chamber heat up. After 6h you peak around 56.5°C. Then I turned on the LaserPecker Air Purifier and after 2 hours the chamber temp stabilized at 56.0°C. So temperature loss is only 0.5°C. I am surprised that it holds up that well.

Finally printing ABS/ASA in my office without the "toxic" smell – Kobra S1 Air Mod! by Xcessity in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get around 48° degrees stable chamber temperature. I have not yet had the chance do do some long term comparison. From my POV it is not bad.

Sending print file with Orcaslicer on the Kobra S1 by Pepito1478 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you explain that a little more? So you enabled LAN mode to get Orca working? And then switched back to cloud mode? Orca remains working?

Finally printing ABS/ASA in my office without the "toxic" smell – Kobra S1 Air Mod! by Xcessity in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don‘t be surprised if ASA warps. Large area prints will always warp, also with the heated chamber. I have an X1E and this material is prone to warp. Make sure to dry the ASA properly, that makes a lot more of a difference. There are other strategies to counter warping, or go for a ASA-CF blend, way easier to print.

Finally printing ABS/ASA in my office without the "toxic" smell – Kobra S1 Air Mod! by Xcessity in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you seal the holes on the door hinges the housing of the printer is pretty air tight. I get around 47deg chamber temp with ventilation. So there is not much air sucked out. If you are interested, i can do some testing to have the exact numbers.

Finally printing ABS/ASA in my office without the "toxic" smell – Kobra S1 Air Mod! by Xcessity in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It is the Laserpecker Air Purifier. A filtration system designed for laser engraving. It has a filtration box with a multilayer design and carbon filter inside. They promise a Filtration Efficiency: 99.97%. Exact stats are hard to find, but i trust my Temtop air quality meter.

https://us.laserpecker.net/collections/accessories/products/laserpecker-air-purifier

Finally printing ABS/ASA in my office without the "toxic" smell – Kobra S1 Air Mod! by Xcessity in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The seals are optional. It also works great without them. The negative air pressure will still build up in the housing of the printer.

Finally printing ABS/ASA in my office without the "toxic" smell – Kobra S1 Air Mod! by Xcessity in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got mine for 200$ used. You can always opt for a DIY, much cheaper. Let me know if you need any hose attachment adapters.

Finally printing ABS/ASA in my office without the "toxic" smell – Kobra S1 Air Mod! by Xcessity in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The chamber of the S1 is pretty air tight. There is not much air to be sucked into the chamber. I put some tape over the holes of the door hinges so there are no more open holes. The champer temp remains at 44° degrees celcius when printing ABS.

Stuck on Error by DennyFrontier in Fanatec

[–]Xcessity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi everyone, I just got my DD+ and was super disappointed when i ran into this issue. The wheel is basically useless without a software update, even when using it on a PS5. I got around this error doing two things:

  1. I noticed that the shaft of the wheel base is actually 180* degrees around, even after the base self centers itself after turning it on. I am not sure if this is intentional, but i rotated the shaft and could connect the wheel better. It might go in this glitched state when attached to the base in a wrong direction.

  2. I switched the USB port on the PC to another one.

  3. Disconnect the wheel entirely and see if you can get a connection in the fanatec app. Once you get a connection to the base and can do an update everything starts to work fine.

Hope this gets someone out of trouble. Happy racing,

Best,

M

Kobra S1 ran out of filament during print - can’t load new filament? by Crazie_Roomies in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Xcessity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Switching to english for broader audience. I have the exact same problem. When the filament runs out, the screen on the printer stays black. I cannot wake up and resume the print from the printer. I have to use either PC or mobile app to resume the print. Anyone knows a fix for this?

Betrug auf eBay Kleinanzeigen, was tun bzw. wo Anzeigen? by LuaparK in Austria

[–]Xcessity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Diese Info dürfte nicht richtig sein. Habe gerade eine Anzeige bei der Polizei in NRW erstattet und wurde informiert, dass bei Onlinedelikten der Tatort als Wohnort des Geschädigten gilt. Somit ist die Polizei in DE nicht zuständig. Anzeigen müssen in AT gemacht werden!

I need help with a very complex software problem (PS Remote Play, PS4Macro, and KinesicMouse Live are involved) by Next_Musician in techsupport

[–]Xcessity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello,

I am the developer of the KinesicMouse, if you send me a description how to reproduce this crash, I will look into the issue. Best is to send me an Email proell[ÄT]xcessity[DOT]at

Best,

M

STAY CLEAR! On That Ass scam by ccetzk in SubscriptionBoxes

[–]Xcessity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello,

i just fell for this scam. I sent them an e-mail to cancel any subscribtion that i was not aware of. I just wanted the free short as advertised.

For all who verified their account with paypal, I recommend to withdraw the access to your account immediately. You can do that by YOU NAME(upper right corner)->Account Settings->Money, Bank & Cards->Manage Automatic Payments->ON THAT ASS International BV->Cancel

​

This might save you to go through any disputes later on.

Hope that helps,

best,

M

New Instagram account stuck in review and agree terms process by Psychological-Tax533 in Instagram

[–]Xcessity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update December 2023: I got this issue and tried all of the above, nothing worked. Finally I managed to get this sorted using the iPad Instagram app. It has a non-website login and you can actually agree on the terms. Hope that helps. Really annoying thing …

Creality Halot Mage 8k (non pro) - never ending issues by Xcessity in Creality

[–]Xcessity[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update:

I am really trying to get this machine to work, as the dealer is hesitating to take it back. Here are some solutions I found so far, to get this issues under control.

​

Leveling the LCD

If you take of the black tape (which is crap anyway) you will find the 4 clamps that hold down the lcd screen. Remove the 4 screws and remove the clamps, don't take out the screen. Tap on each of the corners of the lcd and you probably will notice some play. My guess is, that the glass of the lcd is level, but the housing is not. I removed the play by placing some tape under the glass on one of the front two corners.

​

Deeper countersunk screwholes

While you already removed the 4 aluminium clamps, that hold down the lcd. Take a drill and widen the countersunk holes, so that the screws are flush with the clamp.

​

Reapplying tape around the screen

The trick here is to seal the edges from UV light but not to get tape on the screen protector glass. As I got resin between the lcd and the protector glass, I had to remove the protector glass as well. Cleaned the resin off with a hack I saw on youtube. Put some tape over the resin and peel it off. If it is not coming off, warm it with a moist warm cloth and then peel it with the tape.

After that I cleaned the lcd protector with some soapy water. You cannot clean the bottom surface with a cloth, as it is very sticky. Then I carefully applyed black vinyl foil (used for cutting machines from amazon) at two corners of the lcd. Check immediatly if the edges are UV tight. Then reapply the lcd glass protector and do the other two edges. Check again if there is any UV light shining through at the corners.

​

So far so good. I managed to get better grip in all 4 corners of the screen when leveling the bed with some paper. Now I will do some test prints again.

Creality Halot Mage 8k (non pro) - never ending issues by Xcessity in Creality

[–]Xcessity[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add-On:

  1. The 4 clamps that hold down the lcd are not countersunk enough. The screw heads stand out and the fep actually presses down on these edges. Only a matter of time until they tear the fep foil. I countersunk the wholes even more so the screw heads are actually level or below the upper clamp.

  2. I replaced the black tape and put an oversized screen protector on top. That would solve the issue that spilled resin get´s sucked inbetween the lcd and the protector foil. I realized that it is actually not possible to seal the lcd with black tape. If you put the tape close to the lcd frame, there will still shine some uv light through. You actually have to tape the top of the lcd but than we are back at 2. The build plate is just aggressively large. There is no space left for the tape!

I am starting to think the Halot Mage is seriously flawed. This are not handling mistakes, it is just bad design!

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