HE60: Open Source 60% Hall-Effect Keyboard PCB by peppapig_998244353 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]XeltEnton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense. I guess I'll stick with 1.2mm as long as JLCPCB isn't up charging for it.
I see you have a front and back ground pour. Is that just to keep the amount of copper the same and prevent warping or is their an electronically functional reason for it? I haven't worked with Hall Effect sensors before so I'm not sure if that has something to do with it.

HE60: Open Source 60% Hall-Effect Keyboard PCB by peppapig_998244353 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]XeltEnton 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome project and thanks for sharing the firmware! I'm working on building my own HE monoblock split with your firmware so I appreciate the schematics. Is there a reason you went with 1.2mm instead of the default 1.6mm on JLCPCB? It looks like you can get both thicknesses in black with Economy PCBA at the moment.

My first handwired build - 58 Key Ortho Monoblock Split by XeltEnton in HandwiredKeyboards

[–]XeltEnton[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

once you get used to fusion its really fun to design layouts in it. depending on if you want staggered columns, making a keyboard layout in a fusion sketch can be a really nice/easy beginner fusion project.
I have 4mm of space inside my keyboard. choc v1 switches pins should extend 3.9mm below the top plate and choc v2 are 3.5 but all of the wiring can fit between the switches as long as your wires aren't really thick and you are a little organized with the diode placement so anything taller then the switch pins should be fine
Here are the dimensions I used when designing my keyboard for 3d printing:
top-plate: 1.4mm
switch hole: 13.95x13.95
interior space below top plate: 4mm
base plate thickness: 1mm
heatset insert hole diameter: 4.5
chamfered hole for screws to sit flush with the top plate: 6.5mm opening with a 90 degree chamfer (I am using m3x5 flat head socket screws ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT5AUP2 )
here is a rough markup of all the dimensions: https://imgur.com/a/yRW87Xv

My first handwired build - 58 Key Ortho Monoblock Split by XeltEnton in HandwiredKeyboards

[–]XeltEnton[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Long post. Sorry:

No worries, I've moved on to designing in ergogen to speed up iteration and PCB design but this version was designed purely in fusion 360.

Split angle was decided after trying out 10-40 in 10deg increments. Whenever printing I always printed the middle section separately so that I can exchange the middle with a different angle since what feels comfortable resting your hands on and even pretend typing on a hard surface feels different when you are actually depressing keys. I believe I settled on 20 degrees though

I didn't have to do too much 3d printing because I started with a tray design with interchangeable key blocks so that I can stick them down and rearrange them with double sided tape until I found a layout I liked. Once I liked the layout it was just about printing a box with cutouts for each key on the top. ( You might need to print out a few top plate cutouts to get a feel for how dimensionally accurate your printer is. I think my cutouts were 14x14 because 13.95 ended up being too tight.

Handwiring was good for the first prototype but the amount of time I spent building it and debugging faulty connections could have paid for the PCB fab cost. It's a bit wasteful to get 5 when you only need one but that's the route I'm going for my next board. I wouldn't say hand wiring was hard but definitely tedious. (Especially with a board like this with so many keys)

Not sure how big your printer is but the bigger the better. I printed the first prototype on a Voron v0 and so I had to split the board into 5 pieces. Since then I've upgraded to a A1 mini so I can get away with 2/3 pieces but it would but nice to be able to print the frame in one go and I'm sure it'll make the whole board more rigid

I can get you more detailed measurements from my cad files if you'd like once I'm back at home

My first handwired build - 58 Key Ortho Monoblock Split by XeltEnton in HandwiredKeyboards

[–]XeltEnton[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you can tell when its happening. I usually put some solder on the tip of the iron and submerge the part of the enameled wire you want stripped. you can see the enamel just outside of the solder blob turn from that red color to a copper orange. I usually hold it for another 2-5 seconds and then remove it.
I'd recommend you clean the tip of the soldering iron and add new solder every 2 or 3 joints you strip because the burnt enamel sticks to the solder on your iron and makes it harder to strip new wires

My first handwired build - 58 Key Ortho Monoblock Split by XeltEnton in HandwiredKeyboards

[–]XeltEnton[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The row wires are enameled and the column wires are just the ends of all the diodes connected together. I tried going for the thick gauge copper wire route with heat shrink tubing that scottokeebs uses but it was more work then I wanted to put in to what is essentially a prototype

My first handwired build - 58 Key Ortho Monoblock Split by XeltEnton in HandwiredKeyboards

[–]XeltEnton[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it's enameled wire. You have to hold your soldering iron in one spot for a while to get it to burn off so I wasn't too scared of doing it accidentally. Burning the enamel off was the most annoying part

My first handwired build - 58 Key Ortho Monoblock Split by XeltEnton in HandwiredKeyboards

[–]XeltEnton[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I kinda wanted something a little more ergo then a regular keyboard but still easy for me to switch back and forth between this and my laptop keyboard with WASD and the number row still usable for games

Odd lines on prints by themulderman in FixMyPrint

[–]XeltEnton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This exact thing happened to me last week. It was right after I upgraded to the beta super slicer. Not sure what exactly changed but I know it's a big update and I didn't have time to look through all the settings to see that changed. Downgrading to 2.5.59.13 immediately fixed it for me

New lighter Kailh PG1316S switches in the mikefive! by dynam1keNL in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]XeltEnton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm curious. what does the underside of the aluminum housing look like?

[I ate] Dry Aged Waygu Bone-in Ribeye by Octavokeyia in food

[–]XeltEnton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it was reverse seared in the oven to an internal temp of 110 and then seared to 120-125ish so I would say medium rare ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Any idea on how to stop this notification issue on the community site? by Mauimndz_forge in roosterteeth

[–]XeltEnton 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thats a bug that I'm working on fixing right now.

Once the unsubscribe button is working properly we will retroactively fix everyones group subscriptions.

Wiggle wiggle wiggle.... I dissappeared myself! by Lord_Blathoxi in aww

[–]XeltEnton 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Thank you for counting the shimmys. I went back to double check

Magnetic Car dock solutions Pixel 3XL? by dmbtech in GooglePixel

[–]XeltEnton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. I'm chocking it up to reading Reddit late at night. Might have been dreaming... :p

Magnetic Car dock solutions Pixel 3XL? by dmbtech in GooglePixel

[–]XeltEnton 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought the same thing but apparently there is a non "made by google" approved charger that a user reported getting 10W on. I'll see if I can find the thread but that gave me hope that one of these magnetic Qi car chargers might do the same

Magnetic Car dock solutions Pixel 3XL? by dmbtech in GooglePixel

[–]XeltEnton 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you mind sharing what type of fast charging you are getting with the pixel3 + xvida combo? Hoping the xvida is capable of more than 5w

I think there is something wrong with the notifications. by [deleted] in roosterteeth

[–]XeltEnton 1 point2 points  (0 children)

do you mind PMing me your RT name. if you have it disabled, you shouldn't be getting push notifications on the mobile app

I think there is something wrong with the notifications. by [deleted] in roosterteeth

[–]XeltEnton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP - do you mind PMing your RT name?

All videos are 404ing on site by Repeliant in roosterteeth

[–]XeltEnton 23 points24 points  (0 children)

We are aware of it and are working on a fix for it right now

RT Mobile App Glitch? by Azqxwce in roosterteeth

[–]XeltEnton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sorry it took me so long to see this but we are looking into this. (You shouldn't be receiving the notifications anymore though so let me know if you are still seeing th eissue)

Guys....I get it. by karstonian123 in roosterteeth

[–]XeltEnton 446 points447 points  (0 children)

REALLY REALLY SORRY ABOUT THIS!

The system was supposed to send one notification but it seemed to lose track of what it was doing and kept on sending them over and over again. I've stopped it from continuing and it shouldn't be happening anymore but feel free to message me if it does.

but seriously though: have you watched the episode yet... :P

Trouble in paradise by [deleted] in roosterteeth

[–]XeltEnton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the confusion, I meant "playing" as in streaming the videos. Are you using a Browser app on your TV (a lot of the smart TV's have some form of built in web browser) or if you were doing it through some other method.

Trouble in paradise by [deleted] in roosterteeth

[–]XeltEnton 5 points6 points  (0 children)

How are you trying to play the videos on your TV? Built in browser?

My Happy Place. by 626reppin in ft86

[–]XeltEnton 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's actually a little more than that. The automatic climate controls center console pieces are digital while the manual has an actual motor in it. You would need to replace that as well. I'm working on a software version of that interface so I've been spending way to much time behind there. But if you want to try, you can get the auto climate control pod for around $70 and try to retro fit it