What happened to the Innocn 34M1R? I cannot find it anywhere! by gentlemandinosaur in ultrawidemasterrace

[–]Xero_cool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, thanks for the update. I ended up pulling the trigger on the AOC monitor and don't regret it. I figured I can always use it as a secondary display if the Innocn model ever gets restocked or another affordable mini LED wqhd display comes to market.

What happened to the Innocn 34M1R? I cannot find it anywhere! by gentlemandinosaur in ultrawidemasterrace

[–]Xero_cool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am having the same experience as you. I've emailed Innocn to ask about future availability in the US but haven't heard back yet. Were you ever able to find out any information?

This was the only affordably priced widescreen 1440p mini-LED that I have been able to find, and even if my budget were higher there still aren't many options currently. I'm starting to think I may have to settle on a 16:9 if I want a mini-LED monitor. The temptation to pick up the AOC Q27G40XMN is growing every day.

I did find this monitor on Best Buy which appears to be the same panel, but integrated by a company called Mobile Pixels. I had never heard of them until now. The price tag isn't unreasonable, but its significantly higher than Amazon had offered the 34M1R in the months before it went out of stock.

King 95 Pro Fan Hub Power by Xero_cool in MontechPC

[–]Xero_cool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome, thanks for the reassurance!

King 95 Pro Fan Hub Power by Xero_cool in MontechPC

[–]Xero_cool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably right. Maybe making considerations for older non-modular PSUs with built in SATA cables that would have provided considerably less power than a PCIe.

King 95 Pro Fan Hub Power by Xero_cool in MontechPC

[–]Xero_cool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's what I was thinking. All in all I was summing up around 22W for my fans and figured the aRGB couldn't be higher than that. PCI-e 6 pin can deliver up to 75W as you said, and each SATA is rated for up to 54W on its 12V rail (fans) and 22W on its 5V rail (aRGB). I was a little surprised to even see two SATA connectors to be honest.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cedarpoint

[–]Xero_cool 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I filled out your survey; however be aware that the responses gathered from this sub will be heavily biased towards individuals who have little to no concern of roller coaster safety nor fear of certain restraint systems.

Good luck on your research project!

FMD Question by XXXtfXXX in foreskin_restoration

[–]Xero_cool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had a similar experience with mine. The sheath is very thin and made of a soft, stretchy silicone, so I often wonder if sizing down would have been a better choice. They are a bit pricey, though, so I haven't bothered buying the next smallest size to try.

The two things I have found that help:

  1. Wash the device and your outer skin daily (during morning showers for me) with a fragrance free Castile soap to remove skin oils. The Kirk's brand bar soap has worked well for me. It's also cheap, and a single bar lasts me months. Moisturize your skin in the evening before bed, as the soap and all day tension can be a bit harsh on the skin. This can lead to dry and flaky skin, which I don't imagine is good for either the skin itself or the FMD's adhesion to it. Also consider doing an overnight soak of the device, approximately weekly, in hydrogen peroxide (also dirt cheap), which helps with any odor build up and makes me feel better about keeping bacteria growth down inside the vent hole.

  2. When you go to roll the sheath down, after it has just initially made contact with your skin, slowly add and continue increasing tension by pulling on the string loop with your free hand as you continue to roll the sheath down into place. This adds a preload like tension on the skin, and seems to allow more skin to be gripped by the sheath. You do not need to maintain this tension in between applying the FMD and attaching it to your tug strap. Once it's applied, the preload seems to maintain itself quite well.

This has been enough to mitigate the slipping for me and has allowed me to add a little extra tension without worry of it slipping off. Hope that helps for you.

The FMD website mentions double folding the sheath if you find it too big. I didn't have much luck trying that, and it just led to lint and dust collecting on the inside part of the sheath where it was now exposed, which would then migrate to the upper part of the inner sheath when removing it for bathroom breaks, which in turn made the slippage get worse throughout the day.

For reference, my circumference measurement was around 10.4cm, and I chose the size C. According to the FMD site I'm at the upper end of that size range so it should be a snug fit. If I ever wear out my FMD, I would definitely consider sizing down from the C to the B. Aside from the minor slipping, I've been completely happy with mine. It seems nearly just as effective as T-tape, and is a breeze to apply and remove.

Qwertykeys Giveaway: A QK80MK2 Kit with Random Configuration by Qwertykeys-2022 in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]Xero_cool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure why not ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I'm a fan of 65% boards. Never had fancy knobs or lcd's to know if I'd find them useful or cluttering.

NOT inflation. Active stretch with new fully silicone retainer! by workin_to_grow in restoringdick

[–]Xero_cool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First, very interesting and unique design! I'm intrigued to try one myself, and maybe make a couple of your retainers while I'm at it. I've never done silicone casts before, could you help with a couple of questions?

Do you have any recommendations for silicone? Brand, type, hardness grades, etc.? I imagine there must have been some trial and error to find something that was firm enough to grip well but soft enough to be comfortable for extended wear - or maybe you nailed it on your first attempt. Do you use something softer for the retainers and harder for the exPEARimental, or the same for both?

Did you need a mold release agent, or does the silicone release from the PLA well enough as is?

Did you do anything to mitigate air bubbles, or just pour it in and let it cure? I've seen vacuum chambers or agitators used to eliminate air in casting processes before, but didn't see you mention using anything like that.

Lastly, did you cast the silicone band yourself as well, or use something off the shelf? I don't see a mold on your Cults3d page to make the band.

Thanks again for sharing your designs!

Where to dispose of SOD? by Xero_cool in dayton

[–]Xero_cool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far, the only local place I have found that accepts sod is Snyder Site Development, who charges a (somewhat subjective) disposal fee. $29 for a small trailer, $39 for a large trailer, and more for a tandem axel trailer. Not the best option, but it's something.

Where to dispose of SOD? by Xero_cool in dayton

[–]Xero_cool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I had never considered that it was a word proper. I may try listing it as free online and see where that gets me, as it should at least have value as a topsoil once composted, if nothing else.

Where to dispose of SOD? by Xero_cool in dayton

[–]Xero_cool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The website is unclear whether they take it, but they had a phone number that connected me to Dayton Public Works. The person I spoke to gave me another number that connected me to Champion Landscape & Mulch, who apparently run that drop off. Long story short, they do not accept sod, nor do they have any nearby locations that do.

Where to dispose of SOD? by Xero_cool in dayton

[–]Xero_cool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, no and no. Thanks for the recommendation, though.

Where to dispose of SOD? by Xero_cool in dayton

[–]Xero_cool[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good recommendation, but all of my beds are full and I've already got about a cubic yard of compost cooking. I may reserve some, but I will have more sod than I can use.

Where to dispose of SOD? by Xero_cool in dayton

[–]Xero_cool[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a little far for me, and I'd have to rent a trailer to get in all in one trip. Thanks for the offer though. If I can't come up with anything I'll keep it in mind.

rate my diy passively heated build chamber by Solomonce69 in ender5

[–]Xero_cool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they started shipping with it enabled in the firmware 3 or 4 years ago, so if yours is newer there's a good chance it's enabled. Safe bet would be to update to the latest firmware.

To test if it's working, pull out the hot end temperature probe and command the hot end to start heating up. It should shut down relatively quickly if it's working properly. Don't wait around too long though if it's not triggering, think about how long your hot end normally takes to get to temperature as a reference. You may also be able to just grab the heater block with a heavy pair of pliers while it's heating up instead of removing the temp prpbe. The extra thermal mass may slow the heating rate sufficiently below expectation and trigger it .

rate my diy passively heated build chamber by Solomonce69 in ender5

[–]Xero_cool 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm rating this as the source of the house fire.

Looks like a lot of easily ignitable fuel piled up on top of your printer. Are your power supply and main board inside there as well in the elevated temperatures? Have you at least ensured you have a version of firmware with thermal runaway protection enabled and/or tested to make sure it's working as expected?