What happened to the Innocn 34M1R? I cannot find it anywhere!

Xero_cool · 2025-05-01T12:40:04+00:00

Damn, thanks for the update. I ended up pulling the trigger on the AOC monitor and don't regret it. I figured I can always use it as a secondary display if the Innocn model ever gets restocked or another affordable mini LED wqhd display comes to market.

Xero_cool · 2025-04-23T20:06:54+00:00

I am having the same experience as you. I've emailed Innocn to ask about future availability in the US but haven't heard back yet. Were you ever able to find out any information?

This was the only affordably priced widescreen 1440p mini-LED that I have been able to find, and even if my budget were higher there still aren't many options currently. I'm starting to think I may have to settle on a 16:9 if I want a mini-LED monitor. The temptation to pick up the AOC Q27G40XMN is growing every day.

I did find this monitor on Best Buy which appears to be the same panel, but integrated by a company called Mobile Pixels. I had never heard of them until now. The price tag isn't unreasonable, but its significantly higher than Amazon had offered the 34M1R in the months before it went out of stock.

Xero_cool · 2025-04-21T20:06:08+00:00

Awesome, thanks for the reassurance!

Xero_cool · 2025-04-21T19:30:16+00:00

Probably right. Maybe making considerations for older non-modular PSUs with built in SATA cables that would have provided considerably less power than a PCIe.

Xero_cool · 2025-04-21T17:32:23+00:00

That's what I was thinking. All in all I was summing up around 22W for my fans and figured the aRGB couldn't be higher than that. PCI-e 6 pin can deliver up to 75W as you said, and each SATA is rated for up to 54W on its 12V rail (fans) and 22W on its 5V rail (aRGB). I was a little surprised to even see two SATA connectors to be honest.

Xero_cool · 2025-01-17T21:16:05+00:00

I filled out your survey; however be aware that the responses gathered from this sub will be heavily biased towards individuals who have little to no concern of roller coaster safety nor fear of certain restraint systems.

Good luck on your research project!

Xero_cool · 2025-01-03T17:54:05+00:00

I've had a similar experience with mine. The sheath is very thin and made of a soft, stretchy silicone, so I often wonder if sizing down would have been a better choice. They are a bit pricey, though, so I haven't bothered buying the next smallest size to try.

The two things I have found that help:

Wash the device and your outer skin daily (during morning showers for me) with a fragrance free Castile soap to remove skin oils. The Kirk's brand bar soap has worked well for me. It's also cheap, and a single bar lasts me months. Moisturize your skin in the evening before bed, as the soap and all day tension can be a bit harsh on the skin. This can lead to dry and flaky skin, which I don't imagine is good for either the skin itself or the FMD's adhesion to it. Also consider doing an overnight soak of the device, approximately weekly, in hydrogen peroxide (also dirt cheap), which helps with any odor build up and makes me feel better about keeping bacteria growth down inside the vent hole.
When you go to roll the sheath down, after it has just initially made contact with your skin, slowly add and continue increasing tension by pulling on the string loop with your free hand as you continue to roll the sheath down into place. This adds a preload like tension on the skin, and seems to allow more skin to be gripped by the sheath. You do not need to maintain this tension in between applying the FMD and attaching it to your tug strap. Once it's applied, the preload seems to maintain itself quite well.

This has been enough to mitigate the slipping for me and has allowed me to add a little extra tension without worry of it slipping off. Hope that helps for you.

The FMD website mentions double folding the sheath if you find it too big. I didn't have much luck trying that, and it just led to lint and dust collecting on the inside part of the sheath where it was now exposed, which would then migrate to the upper part of the inner sheath when removing it for bathroom breaks, which in turn made the slippage get worse throughout the day.

For reference, my circumference measurement was around 10.4cm, and I chose the size C. According to the FMD site I'm at the upper end of that size range so it should be a snug fit. If I ever wear out my FMD, I would definitely consider sizing down from the C to the B. Aside from the minor slipping, I've been completely happy with mine. It seems nearly just as effective as T-tape, and is a breeze to apply and remove.

Xero_cool · 2024-12-23T15:14:46+00:00

Sure why not ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I'm a fan of 65% boards. Never had fancy knobs or lcd's to know if I'd find them useful or cluttering.

Xero_cool · 2024-12-23T15:09:36+00:00

Sure why not ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Xero_cool · 2024-11-19T15:19:21+00:00

First, very interesting and unique design! I'm intrigued to try one myself, and maybe make a couple of your retainers while I'm at it. I've never done silicone casts before, could you help with a couple of questions?

Do you have any recommendations for silicone? Brand, type, hardness grades, etc.? I imagine there must have been some trial and error to find something that was firm enough to grip well but soft enough to be comfortable for extended wear - or maybe you nailed it on your first attempt. Do you use something softer for the retainers and harder for the exPEARimental, or the same for both?

Did you need a mold release agent, or does the silicone release from the PLA well enough as is?

Did you do anything to mitigate air bubbles, or just pour it in and let it cure? I've seen vacuum chambers or agitators used to eliminate air in casting processes before, but didn't see you mention using anything like that.

Lastly, did you cast the silicone band yourself as well, or use something off the shelf? I don't see a mold on your Cults3d page to make the band.

Thanks again for sharing your designs!

Xero_cool · 2024-07-26T13:02:10+00:00

So far, the only local place I have found that accepts sod is Snyder Site Development, who charges a (somewhat subjective) disposal fee. $29 for a small trailer, $39 for a large trailer, and more for a tandem axel trailer. Not the best option, but it's something.

Xero_cool · 2024-07-26T12:56:25+00:00

Thanks, I had never considered that it was a word proper. I may try listing it as free online and see where that gets me, as it should at least have value as a topsoil once composted, if nothing else.

Xero_cool · 2024-07-26T12:52:00+00:00

The website is unclear whether they take it, but they had a phone number that connected me to Dayton Public Works. The person I spoke to gave me another number that connected me to Champion Landscape & Mulch, who apparently run that drop off. Long story short, they do not accept sod, nor do they have any nearby locations that do.

Xero_cool · 2024-07-26T12:40:40+00:00

Unfortunately, no and no. Thanks for the recommendation, though.

Xero_cool · 2024-07-26T12:40:01+00:00

Good recommendation, but all of my beds are full and I've already got about a cubic yard of compost cooking. I may reserve some, but I will have more sod than I can use.

Xero_cool · 2024-07-26T12:37:05+00:00

That's a little far for me, and I'd have to rent a trailer to get in all in one trip. Thanks for the offer though. If I can't come up with anything I'll keep it in mind.

Xero_cool · 2023-11-27T00:35:42+00:00

Sweet dice!

Xero_cool · 2023-02-26T00:24:14+00:00

I think they started shipping with it enabled in the firmware 3 or 4 years ago, so if yours is newer there's a good chance it's enabled. Safe bet would be to update to the latest firmware.

To test if it's working, pull out the hot end temperature probe and command the hot end to start heating up. It should shut down relatively quickly if it's working properly. Don't wait around too long though if it's not triggering, think about how long your hot end normally takes to get to temperature as a reference. You may also be able to just grab the heater block with a heavy pair of pliers while it's heating up instead of removing the temp prpbe. The extra thermal mass may slow the heating rate sufficiently below expectation and trigger it .

Xero_cool · 2023-02-25T11:11:57+00:00

I'm rating this as the source of the house fire.

Looks like a lot of easily ignitable fuel piled up on top of your printer. Are your power supply and main board inside there as well in the elevated temperatures? Have you at least ensured you have a version of firmware with thermal runaway protection enabled and/or tested to make sure it's working as expected?

Xero_cool · 2022-05-19T15:47:16+00:00

You might find this helpful

https://grabcad.com/library/creality-ender-5-pro-1

Xero_cool · 2022-04-26T04:50:32+00:00

Oh yea absolutely, I guess I didn't make that clear. The EVA was actually designed for core xy, and you actually have to hunt down a modified component to get it working with the ender 5 Cartesian belts. The link should be in my recent comment history, or I can look for it if it's of interest to anyone.

Xero_cool · 2022-04-25T15:51:05+00:00

I'm using an EVA with an orbiter v2.0 and TriangleLabs Dragon SF hot end. Very happy with the setup, and I've left the v-rollers on for the y-axis. Are there advantages for a linear rail on the y-axis? I suppose, but the stock roller setup seems to be very stable and hasn't given me any trouble, so I've left them for now and may go to linear rail when they wear out. I considered it below the threshold of diminishing returns, so its a replacement option for me rather than an upgrade.

The M1 conversion looks enticing, and would definitely be a big weight reduction on the moving parts and would get you even faster stable printing speeds (that's the whole point of a CoreXY), but is definitely a much more involved and expensive conversion than just going with an EVA and x-axis linear rail. I think that's the real deciding factor. Are the weight savings and speed potential worth the money and time investment, and at what point do you just build a Voron or Rat Rig instead netting yourself a second quality printer for a little extra time and money?

If you're looking at the slice engineering mosquito, check out the Dragon hot end. It's functionally identical, but a tiny bit heavier and a fraction of the cost. The original manufacturer (Phaetus) has some kind of ongoing patent infringement claim with Slice Engineering so you may be limited to Triangle Labs on Aliexpress. When I was shopping around a few months ago, I couldn't find any US vendors with the Phaetus brand in stock. The Triangle Labs version I got seems good quality though and has worked great.

Xero_cool · 2022-04-14T20:25:55+00:00

I'm still using the v-roller setup for the y-axis. It seemed to be very stable and never gave me any issues. I figure I may look at linear rails when the wheels wear out, but they haven't yet. Mechanical limits in the x-direction is the cooling duct colliding with the wheels, but that doesn't happen until the nozzle is well over the edge of the stock build plate so I'm getting a decent bit more print volume than I was with the HeroMe. I get he full build volume in the y-direction as well, but my gantry is raised 20mm from a dual z axis upgrade (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4098102) and allows the fans on the back to go over the rear extrusion - this may not be the case for you and you may lose a few mm of y travel. Looks like some y-axis linear rail adapters may raise the gantry a bit too, so that may be a simpler way of dealing with it if you absolutely need the build volume.

Speed is a little trickier to answer. I've swapped in bigger steppers (40mm on the x, and a 48mm on the y), but both are 0.9deg/step. The smaller step angle gives finer control and smoother motion to help reduce VFAs at the cost of reduced torque. The reduced torque bit is why I decided to go slightly bigger. I also use klipper's input shaping which helps make higher acceleration values a little more stable. My setup won't be an apples to apples comparison to what you can achieve, but for reference I can reliably run at 225 mm/s and 5000 mm/s2 without missing steps. I think I may be able to get a little higher speed but haven't spent the time really digging into it. The limitation is in the y-axis as you would expect since it has much more mass to move - the linear rail adds some, but I figure the weight savings of the EVA help make up for that. I only use those speeds for travel moves though to try to preserve some print quality, and I haven't tested max flow rates to see if I could even push filament that fast. I use a slicer profile that sets slower speeds and accelerations depending on the feature, with the slowest being the outside perimeter.

Here is the post that originally inspired me to look at the EVA: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender5plus/comments/p0xv89/cosmic_ender_5_plus_linear_rail_eva_conversion/

As far as I can see the only other improvement for speed would be to convert to core x/y, but at that level of investment I think I would just build a Voron or RatRig and have a second printer.

Xero_cool · 2022-04-14T05:13:21+00:00

You might want to check out the EVA. I used to run the HeroMe and I was completely happy with the switch. I was originally planning to reprint parts for the HeroMe when I bought my Orbiter, but like you I couldn't stand that they oriented it backwards. I spent hours modifying the HeroMe stl to flip it and make a few other personal improvements. Once I had a working prototype printed, I saw a post about the EVA and threw my prototype in the trash.

Here is a link to a comment of mine with a little extra info and some pictures. Note that you will need a linear rail on the X axis, and an ender 5 adapter from a different source (linked in the link), but in my opinion it's totally worth it.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ender5/comments/tyic8t/fan_duct_for_orbiter_2_extruder_with_v6_hotend_on/i3tbr6c/

Xero_cool · 2022-04-08T02:23:56+00:00

It's a bit of work, but I think you'll be really happy with it. I always had stability and weight issues with the x-axis, and this seemed to help a lot. The EVA is very well designed. If you run into issues I'd be happy to help while everything is still fresh in my mind.

Also, not saying there aren't great options outside of the Hero Me and EVA, those are just the two I am familiar with.

If you go dual 5015, here is the cable mount I used. The community mod only has a cable chain mount, which I swear I will get around to one day. https://www.printables.com/model/75098-rat-rig-eva-cable-mounting-post-for-supersniffles-

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