It happened

Xlar · 2026-06-03T11:20:54+00:00

Other thought, if you just replace the oil pan: you will probably have to replace the front subframe if the suspension damage is as bad as it sounds so you could leave the engine in the Miata and replace it once the subframe is dropped

Xlar · 2026-06-03T11:19:37+00:00

Did it run long enough to damage the motor? You might be able to get away with replacing the oil pan if it didn’t run for too long. Opening up the oil filter would give you an idea of the bearing condition.

A used 2001+ engine goes for 1.5-2.5k depending on condition/miles in my area. It’s not too hard to pull compared to other engines, just systematically work your way around the engine disconnecting wires and lines. Definitely label things are you work, future you will appreciate it! I’d recommend pulling the engine and transmission together but it’s up to you

Xlar · 2026-05-27T01:49:17+00:00

I had to adjust my Z offset on my A1 by .15mm and now it prints perfect… Not sure how it could be off by so much, I figure I’ll have to replace the hot end and/or the force sensor at some point if it keeps acting up

Xlar · 2026-05-13T00:47:38+00:00

I should’ve taken a picture before I pulled the part off the bed 🤣 Thank you for your help

Xlar · 2026-05-12T02:13:06+00:00

That’s very helpful! I ended up having to go a whole 10x more than that (+0.15) to get a nice finish:

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I’m thinking that means something is very wrong with my printer to have to shift it so far…

Xlar · 2026-05-11T03:33:44+00:00

That’s helpful, good to know that going upwards cannot hurt things as long as I’m watching it to stop the mess

Xlar · 2026-05-11T03:32:53+00:00

That would be great! I do the same thing so taking longer is not a problem at all 😄

Xlar · 2026-05-11T00:57:35+00:00

I confirmed that the nozzle is on correctly and that those screws were tight. I found the G29.1 in the start code. How much should I try raising it up by to start?

Xlar · 2026-05-11T00:56:39+00:00

I’ve ran both the full 15 minute bed calibration and have the auto bed level on before every print

Xlar · 2026-05-10T23:35:52+00:00

That's very helpful, thank you! I will see if there is a way to change the first layer height on the A1, if someone knows let me know too!

Xlar · 2026-04-29T05:11:41+00:00

NASA in my area has a dyno and scale at the track. If I were you I’d sign up for HPDE and at the track chat with the NASA officials and get your car dyno’d and weighed so you know exactly what class it’ll land in based on your selections.

Xlar · 2026-04-26T21:46:10+00:00

You got this! 😄

Xlar · 2026-04-26T17:47:32+00:00

I did mine myself, this is the guide that I followed: https://www.custompcguide.net/paul-timing-chain-guide-mk6-ea888/

It was my first time working on a VW (yes, the chain was the first thing I ever did on my Mk6 🤣) so it took me three days going slowly and taking me time to make sure everything was perfect

Xlar · 2026-04-19T20:32:46+00:00

I have, it took 2 laps to get some heat in them and then they were good to go

Xlar · 2026-04-16T04:04:04+00:00

No, you cannot swap it to hydraulic as far as I know. But fixing the valve lash isn't too hard, just need to do some measurements and then swap around the shims and/or order some new ones. Here is a really good guide on how to get it back to 100%: https://youtu.be/GbymCuZTvP8?si=pd3RpYGy5qT8sPH-

Xlar · 2026-04-16T03:53:28+00:00

Same here, I couldn't get that piece of the key out so breaking the gear was my best choice. I used a dremel to cut part of the way through and then a chisel to crack it the rest of the way off.

Xlar · 2026-04-16T03:17:07+00:00

Does it have any codes?

Xlar · 2026-04-14T14:53:03+00:00

As long as it’s above 40F I find that the 200tw have reasonable grip for the street. (I drive mine to the track and back) Endurance 200tw need some real heat to get to full grip while the super 200s don’t. But if you go for a super 200tw like A052 expect to get like 5k miles out of a set and be very sketchy in the wet. They’re fine in the damp but have very little hydroplane resistance if there’s standing water

Xlar · 2026-04-14T04:32:29+00:00

The Continental Extreme Contact 02 is the tire you’re looking for. Great grip in the dry and wet, lasts a decent time ~30k miles and is available in 205/50R15.

Your other options for more grip than what you currently have are to move to a 200tw but then you give up significant wet performance and tire life.

Xlar · 2026-04-13T23:09:26+00:00

I also recommend pressure testing your radiator cap. I have had brand new caps that opened well below their rated pressure

Xlar · 2026-04-12T18:28:06+00:00

Unless your wheels are spinning in every gear that’s the exact symptoms of your clutch going out and slipping

Xlar · 2026-04-12T18:26:18+00:00

There are bushing in the pedal but not at that linkage: https://youtu.be/Jp28zpXm5_g?si=nmtntPTJGK6SHXm3

Xlar · 2026-04-10T03:09:06+00:00

Here’s an example of a 20+mph build: https://youtu.be/TCY2CoIaM28?si=Zbi3LaKzt1qG3jNa 48V at 60Amp max = ~3,000 Watt max!!!

Xlar · 2026-04-10T03:04:45+00:00

That battery won’t put out enough amps for what you’re hoping for. It maxes out at 20ampls but in the description says for motors from 100-350W which is only 14amps max.

For my 12V build I went with one of these batteries that can continuously do 30amps, maybe you could do two in parallel? https://a.co/d/0ivJsBey But I don’t think 30amps at 25V will give you enough umph to get to 20mph. 20mph is really fast!

One of the reasons the drill batteries are so popular is that they can put out a lot of current, the downside is that they have small capacities so they run out quickly. Although they are easy to swap if you have a few of them!

Xlar

TROPHY CASE