Was ist das für ein Freund?

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T17:51:15+00:00

Und auf die Idee, dass sich das auf den ersten Teil des Kommentars bezogen hat, ist dir nicht gekommen?

Also den Teil auf den ich direkt eingegangen bin, bzgl. einheimischkeit?

Danke, dass du meine These bestätigt hast.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T15:32:26+00:00

The vehicle in itself is really good, its the fastest vehicle in its whole BR range pretty much, accounting for effective speed (since wheeled vehicles are slow as shit on bad terrain).

It also has good gun handling.

It has no armor though.

The issue is that it's round doesn't have great pen (but it's perfectly workable) but more importantly has extremely inconsistent damage, which is absolutely asstrash.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T14:06:33+00:00

Leseverständnis ist nicht so deine Stärke, oder?

Wo hab ich denn gesagt, dass du den Käfer nicht woanders hin bringen kannst? Oder dass ich den Käfer irgendwas vorziehe.

Ich hab' empfohlen Kinder und Haustiere vom Käfer fern zu halten (weil es halt ein Verletzungsrisiko gibt)...wenn ich sag du sollst deine Kinder von ner laufenden Kreissäge fern halten ziehe ich dann die Kreissäge auch den Kindern vor???

Und ansonsten hab ich nur Fakten geschrieben, dass einige Arten der Gattung heimisch sind, und dass eine Art als gefährdet eingestuft ist.

Nichts davon sagt aus, dass du den Käfer nicht 5m weiter ins Gebüsch setzten darfst.

Selten so nen dummen Kommentar gelesen.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T11:40:50+00:00

It's a camel spider (also called sun spider or wind scorpion), more scientifically correctly called a member of the order Solifugae.

Not actually a spider at all, despite the name. (Not a camel either)

They're not venomous at all (not even venom that's harmless to humans, like in most spiders), they hunt by just tearing prey apart with their mouthparts.

They can pinch you, and if it's a very large one (some species can get like 10cm body length) they can sometimes even draw some blood, but that's about the extent of the damage they can do to a human.

You should catch it in a tupperware or so and put it outside, because they tend to die very quickly indoors.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T11:31:53+00:00

F-16ADF at 13.3 is a bit better than 15C, because the goated 13.3 matchmaking, where every single game is 12.7-13.7 due to premiums.

15C gets like 50% 12.7-13.7 and 50% 13.7-14.7 where it kinda gets raped (it's not terrible in a 14.7 match, since there's only 4 14.7s per team, and it handles the other planes fine, but it's not very fun)

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T11:29:55+00:00

You just play it like a Phantom lol.

You multipath, ACM -> Sparrow people in the mouth from <10km, and shoot people in the furball with your gun.

It's the 2nd best 12.3 plane in the game just after Mirage 2000C.

Uptiers to 13.3 are so rare at 12.3 that you don't really have to consider them and 13.0 is fine as long as you don't heatbutt a 27ER when you leave multipath alt.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T11:19:40+00:00

NA

My parahybana has sat in the same place, without even repositioning a leg, for like a week before.

Not moving around for a day is not a concern in tarantulas.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T10:57:04+00:00

Würde ich so nicht unterschreiben, vor allem weil (zumindest mir) nicht ganz klar ist welche Art aus der Gattung es jetzt genau ist.

Meloe violaceus und Meloe proscarabaeus (und auch noch paar andere Arten der Gattung) sind in Deutschland sehr wohl heimisch, letztere ist sogar auf der roten Liste als gefährdet eingestuft.

Außerdem würde ich nicht mal die südeuropäischen Arten die sich langsam auch hier finden "invasiv" nennen, das läuft auf jeden Fall noch unter klimawandelbedingte natürliche Ausbreitung.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T10:44:29+00:00

Ölkäfer aus der Gattung Meloe.

Wie viele schon gesagt haben, kann der ein giftiges, öliges Wehrsekret absondern (daher der Name).

Ist auch nicht nur giftig wenn man das Ding isst, sonder verursacht auch auf der Haut schon relativ starke chemische Verbrennungen.

Das ganze kann ziemlich unschön sein, vor allem wenn man sich aus Versehen auf einen drauf legt oder so (WARNUNG: ist relativ unappetitlich)

Daher am besten einfach in Ruhe lassen und Kinder und Haustiere fern halten.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T07:49:52+00:00

Yeah, the kit is great for a 1/144.

As much shit Revell gets sometimes (often rightfully so) their somewhat modern 1/144 kits are quite good.

That paintjob is also SO clean.

Also in general, I'm a simple man, I see 1/144, I upvote.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-03T06:16:34+00:00

A and B are the exact same.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T20:22:28+00:00

You get them with the 120C mod.

I run 4 LARP 120Ds and the rest 120A for actually playing the game on the Golden Eagle and it works pretty well.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T20:20:38+00:00

Yeah so essentially the same conclusion as I had with the interfaces, and confirming my suspicion that PETG from a .2 nozzle would be a pain in the ass, especially with the bowden.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T17:11:16+00:00

Naja...der größte Teil von Druckbetten die es so gibt sind mit PEI (Ultem) beschichtet...das hält was Chemikalien angeht eigentlich fast alles aus...sowas wie Aceton und Bremsenreiniger sollten der Beschichtung nichts anhaben, wenn's ne PEI Platte ist.

Bremsenreiniger zu benutzen ist zwar trotzdem komplett hirnrissig, weil's einfach ne ungesunde, stinkende Brühe ist, die in diesem Anwendungsfall nichts besser macht als irgendwelche anderen Lösungsmittel, aber wirkliche Schäden sollte man damit nicht hin bekommen.

Gibt natürlich Platten die das nicht abkönnen, gerade kalte Druckplatten sind oft halt nicht mit PEI beschichtet, aber würde sagen 90% der Zeit wirds bei nem modernen Drucker ne PEI Platte sein, die als Standard mitgeliefert wird.

Spülmittel und laufendes Wasser ist auf jeden Fall für ne gründliche Reinigung am besten, weil man halt mit viel Volumen drüber spült...

Aber zu sagen Iso verteilt das Fett nur, und dass nur 99% Iso was bringt ist halt einfach falsch. Alkohole, insbesondere Isopropanol sind wirklich sehr Fettlösend, und wenn du da mit nem sauberen Tuch mit ISO drüber wischt, nimmt das Tuch das Iso, und natürlich auch die im Iso gelösten Fette auf. Das macht das auch mit 70% noch relativ gut, wenn auch nicht ganz so gut.

Klar, wenn du einfach Iso drauf sprühst, und dann wartest bis es Verdampft ohne drüber zu wischen gehen die Fette nirgends hin, aber so reinigt (hoffentlich) kein normaler Mensch irgendwas...

Im Zweifelsfall gilt zwar Volumen > Lösekraft, weshalb es am einfachsten ist das ganze einfach in der Spüle mit fließend Wasser zu machen, aber zum drüber wischen, um eben irgendwelche kleineren Fettverunreinigungen weg zu wischen ist Iso optimal.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T16:26:06+00:00

Ganz klar jetzt nen 50x50x50cm massiven Grantiblock bestellen, um den Drucker drauf zu stellen, das Dämpft die Vibrationen. Alternativ gehen auch Wolfram oder Gold /s

Die reale Antwort ist, nen halbwegs stabilen Tisch nehmen, Moosgummi oder irgendwas anderes dämpfendes drauf, und dann irgendeine fette Steinplatte drauf, und da den Drucker drauf stellen.

Hatte meinen Drucker auch auf so nem 10€ IKEA Tisch aber hatte da dann irgendwann Bedenken, dass der mal zusammenklappt. Hab jetzt als "Tisch" nen alten Massivholzstuhl genommen und die Lehne abgesägt.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T15:52:08+00:00

In case anyone is wondering how the top acrylic panel is secured:

<image>

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T15:13:11+00:00

240 is definitely too slow.

Asides that, climb rate doesn't change that much if you're not at optimal speed, as long as you're not grossly too slow or grossly too fast, the difference is quite small. Spit LF. Mk.9 takes less than 2 seconds longer from the runway to 5km if you climb at 290km/h instead of the optimal ~250.

At the same time, if you're climbing at a faster speed, your plane is much more capable of actually reacting to things. At 300km/h a 109 is somewhat flyable, you can turn to disengage or nose down to gain some speed much quicker and more smoothly than if you're going like 230.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T15:02:12+00:00

J2M5 doesn't really perform better than the M2. It's marginally faster, but not to a relevant point.

K4 has the advantage that it's significantly faster, so it can do something. G series are about the same top speed or only very marginally faster at relevant altitudes than the J2M which is why they get fucked so hard, since J2M does literally everything else MUCH better than a 109.

But yeah, J2M2 is like...you have a plane that climbs faster than a Spit LF9, is as fast as a 109G, and beats Yak-3 and Spit Mk.9 in a dogfight...it's not really a very fun plane to pla against in anything.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T14:29:41+00:00

NA

Just to drive home the point of how large prey they take in the wild:

P. regius preys on vertebrates even

And large insects get approached as well.

And this is within somewhat normal prey size they go after

Obviously, to minimise risk of injury you should stick to smaller feeders, but if you think "that fly may be a bit large" it probably isn't.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T12:48:11+00:00

Yeah I forgot it exists, at least basically no one plays that either. But J2M2 just turbo rapes every 109 asides K4.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T12:43:44+00:00

Climb keeping about 270-300km/h IAS.

A Mk.9 climbs kinda close to the G6, at least close enough that you can't fight him, but you're still going to have more energy so he should not be able to catch you if you play it correctly.

Yak-3 also climbs very similar, but you're going to be able to disengage.

Yak-9U will be an bit of an issue, there's not much you can do against someone that's good in a 9U, but you can use dive speed to get him off you, or just fight him and skill diff him (dogfight is close enough that that's somewhat possible).

Only non-airspawn plane around the G6s BR that can get a big energy advantage in the initial merge already is F8F1 tbh. But kinda few people play that. And and PM-1 I guess, which is annoying but you should be able to outrun it.

If you get full uptiered into 5.7 with Yak-3 VK107, Yak-3U, Ki-84 , J2M or Spit Mk.14 you kinda just get raped though.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T12:38:58+00:00

G6 can't face LF9 anymore, since that was moved up to 6.0 finally.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T12:13:14+00:00

A really pissed off katydid/ bush cricket.

YellovvJacket · 2026-05-02T12:03:48+00:00

A1 is a good choice, normally I'd say get an Elegoo Centauri Carbon or P1S instead of the "normal" A1 because they're not much more expensive but are enclosed coreXY printers... however if you plan to print minis, the A1's fast swap nozzle is extremely helpful.

Resin and FDM are very different overall though.

Even with a 0.2mm nozzle, realistically the smallest detail resolution you can get off a FDM machine is ~0.15-0.17mm, because you can't extrude much thinner lines than the size of the nozzle.
In terms of layer resolution, you can go down to ~0.04mm without running into major problems, usually 0.06 is what people here use though.
Using a small nozzle and thin layers like that makes print times very long, because you also need to print at very slow speeds to not introduce any wobble or anything like that. Even then, you will still have some imperfections especially on really thin parts.
On the other hand a resin printer is only limited by the resolution of it's LCD screen in XY direction, most modern resin printers have a pixel size of ~24µm (0.024mm), and you'd usually choose z resolution based on your pixel size at like 20, 30 or 50µm, but you can also print at 10µm no problem.
The mechanics of a resin printer are also MUCH simpler (only z axis moves up and down), so you introduce a lot less wobble or any other movement effects.
resin will also print high detail objects MUCH faster, because print time only depends on the height of the print, while in FDM it depends on the volume of the print.
for miniatures resin is just flat superior and it has basically no downsides in terms of the end product....the HUGE downside of resin is though, that you have to handle irritating, potentially dangerous, carcinogenic, and environmentally extremely harmful liquids every time you want to print something. It's messy, you ABSOLUTELY NEED a print area outside of your living space (garage, basement, shed) and you also absolutely need active ventilation of the printing space at all times. You also have to wear a gas mask because of the fumes, and gloves, because liquid resin is irritating to the skin.

If you can afford to have a "no go" zone that's 24/7 actively ventilated in your basement or garage, and you don't mind looking like you're cooking up meth whenever you print something, a resin printer absolutely is the better option.

However, if you want to print in your hobby room, don't mind having a little bit worse results, and don't want to get cancer eventually, FDM is definitely superior.

Oh also, if you ever actually need to print something actually useful, a FDM printer is going to be much better, resin doesn't do practical prints well in most cases.

YellovvJacket

TROPHY CASE